I won't ever get over the removal of headphone jacks, or micro sd slots, or cd drives. I won't. Fuck everyone and everything
.... I'm actually quite happy about wireless earphones. I've had to replace so, SO many earphones because the cord got caught on the corner edge of a shelf or counter and did some kind of irreparable damage. It also added insult to injury when I happened to be moving at-speed and the force was nearly enough to make it feel like someone just tried to rip my head off my neck. It got to the point where I had to keep the cord under all of my clothes, and people began to think my audio player du jour was some kind of medical device. Even then, that wasn't an absolute guarantee against the cord eventually finding some way to slip out and get caught on something.
Though I still use a nice wired headset for when I'm doing multiplayer gaming. However, since most of us like to have nice, comfy chairs with a high degree of mobility, getting such a cord caught on things and ruining your nice headset is a thing that can happen, and with unfortunate regularity at that.
To help with this, I use a headset that has a cord with jacks on both ends. This way, if something happens to it, I can replace just the cord.
But since I'd like to avoid that as much as possible, I've rigged an incredibly snazzy self-retracting system that keeps the cord high above anything that might catch it, though this is only possible since my little cave is under my loft bed.
If you want to replicate this yourself, all you need is a good size clip to hold the headphones when they're not in use (I'm using a larger size NiteIze S-Biner), a small carabiner clip, a retractable badge holder, and a bit of nylon or hemp line. This works best with fabric-sheathed headphone cables so it glides nice and smoothly through the carabiner clip. And, of course, having a long enough cord in the first place is a huge help. Though you may be able to do this using an extension cord for headsets. If you can't source a cable with cloth sheathing, then you may need to use a small pulley with the carabiner clip, otherwise the friction may place too much strain on the cord.
As you can see in the picture, I've run the cord up from my computer, through the wire frame under my loft bed, and then back under to where the badge holder is clipped to the wire frame. The cord is looped around the giant S-Biner clip to prevent any tension placed on the cord from being transferred to the jack on my PC. I also keep the cord knotted carefully around the pivot for the microphone boom to keep the strain off of the jack in the headset itself.
When in use, the badge holder pulls on the carabiner clip, maintaining just enough tension to keep the cord suspended where it won't catch on anything. Whenever I put it back in the S-Biner clip for storage, the badge holder pulls the cord back in, keeping it out of the way so I don't clothesline myself on it.
The nylon/hemp line keeps the carabiner restricted to that linear path. It's not absolutely necessary, but it does help a lot in keeping the cord to a desired area. The line is tied to the S-Biner to give it a bit of space between it and the wire frame. This keeps the carabiner clip that rides on it from clanking noisily on the wire frame. (It may not be a big deal for some, but those who are on the Autism Spectrum like me can find it annoying, to say the least.)
For the badge holder you may need to break it in a bit so it doesn't pull too hard on the cable. You can do this by using it as a retracting keychain - just keep the keys in your pocket and use the badge holder as a means to keep them on a tether in case you drop them. (usually, badge holders like this one are sold in packs, so if you wind up liking this, you can just switch out the badge holder for a fresh one.) After a few weeks the spring should soften up just enough that it'll be safe to use with your headset.

























