3000 Acre Kitchen

It’s 3:30 in the morning and we just arrived at the foot of Mount (Gunung) Batur, an active volcano wedged between two concentric calderas in Northeastern Bali. Before the hike, a familiar sensation that comes back every time I’m about to embark on an adventure; one sharp adrenaline rush followed by a fleeting shiver which is my body’s way of telling me it’s time to do this.

The first hike

Our driver found us a friendly guide to usher us up the mountain where we would catch the sunrise. Nyoman was soft spoken, lanky, and lithe, seasoned by the thousands of trips he has traversed up and down that very mountain in over twenty years as an experienced guide.

There were others like us, some look prepared, others not so much. For some, this seemed like another arduous hike, for others, a phenomenal feat, and to a lesser few it was a cathartic experience to be told around the dinner table for years to come.

The lack of visibility under the cover of darkness made for a bit of a treacherous hike and one needed to be alert at all times especially with the rise in elevation, regardless of one’s level of endurance. While it was relatively strenuous (just over two and a half hours uphill), it is not to be taken lightly as some people have lost their lives on the mountain, mostly by heading up without a guide.

Eventually we arrived just below the summit at sunrise point and were rewarded with the best cup of coffee one could ever have.

It didn’t matter if it was sub-par coffee, but the overwhelming feeling of having conquered the mountain was indescribable. We stood there with our shitty coffee, overlooking the valley, and surrounded by others sharing a similar feeling of accomplishment.

Our guide, Nyoman, Zara and I watched the astonishing sunrise crawl in around the adjacent Gunung Agung mountain and eventually headed down towards the volcanic vents.

We came upon another guide cooking some eggs and bananas inside a vent he had dug up for demonstration purposes and while it was great to watch at that moment I knew I had some to come back with my own provisions.

The second hike

Two days following the initial climb I found myself once again at Mount Batur’s base camp to meet my new guide, Madi.

Madi taking time to pray at the first shrine.

It’s 3:25 am, I’m weary from lack of sleep as the previous day I took part in a pig roast before the early morning rooster’s crow. The night before the second hike I prepared some food to bring on the trek, which I placed inside a tupperware container covered in ice to prevent it from perishing.

For this hike I bundled four Balinese-style banana leaf wrapped tuna skewers to be steamed in the volcanic vents. A while back I read about the volcanic food preparation at Timanfaya national park in the Spanish island of Lanzarote, which sparked the idea to bring a meal so we could reward ourselves upon arriving at the ridge of the crater near the the mount’s peak. The recipe for the tuna wraps follows below.

Two generations of guides meet at the top, Nyoman and Madi.

Versus the volcano

This time around my guide and I made the ascent in two thirds of the original time, took in the majestic sunrise and continued onwards to the highest point of the active volcano before veering off to the vertiginous side of the mountain towards the vents.

I possess a natural fear of heights, which made it tough when following the two feet wide, narrow rim of the crater. On both sides, a steep slope as far as one could see.

Suddenly a completely random sight, two families of mischievous macaque monkeys around the crater’s zenith.

Steaming the tuna

Once we arrived at the vents I pulled out the morning’s treat, while Madi dug up a hole in the ground to be used as a steamer for our tuna wraps.

We covered the hole with some surrounding dry grass and waited until our well-deserved meal could be unwrapped. We became fast friends. About ten minutes after placing them in the sizzling volcanic soil, we enjoyed our first wraps, while sharing stories about the local cuisine, his nearby village, and Madi’s up and coming wedding nuptials.

Mount Batur was the pinnacle of our stay in Bali, both literally and figuratively speaking and when I decided to head back up the mountain for a second time it felt completely natural, to take in the breathtaking view, and experience the volcano once more before leaving this gorgeous country.

This hike was only to be topped off by the arrival to Banau Batur (Batur Lake).

Preparing the steamed tuna wrapped in banana leaf

Base Gede Bumbu Kuning, or basic yellow sauce is a key and versatile paste that can be used in a wide variety of Indonesian dishes including satays, curries and in this instance as the base marinade for our fish.

Marinade yellow paste — Base Gede Bumbu Kuning

This is a recipe adaptation from the Paon Bali cooking class in Ubud.

Servings: 4-6

10 small shallots

10 garlic cloves

2 thumb-sized pieces of fresh kencur aromatic ginger (Kaempferia galanga)

2 thumb-sized pieces of fresh ginger

2 thumb-sized pieces of fresh galangal

2 thumb-sized pieces of fresh turmeric or 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder

2 habanero or jalapeño chilies

3 red chilies. Not of the hot variety

4 macadamia or candlenuts. Or 2 brazil nuts

1 teaspoon of coriander seeds

2 teaspoon of whole black peppercorns

2 cloves

¼ tsp of nutmeg powder

1 tbsp of palm, coconut or brown sugar

1 lemongrass stalk

2 salam or bay leaves

2 tsp of shrimp paste (terasi) if available

3 tbsp of coconut oil

Step 1

Deseed the chilies and finely chop the shallots, garlic, chilies, nuts, gingers, turmeric and galangal.

Step 2

Traditionally, Balinese cooks use a lesung, which is a large volcanic stone mortar with a long wooden pestle. I used a small lesung at our place, but a conventional blender will do just as well. Blend all the chopped ingredients, shrimp paste, seeds, nutmeg and cloves in a blender until they form a fine paste.

Step 3

Sauté the paste in hot coconut oil. About a minute into it, toss in the crushed and folded lemongrass stalk. Continue by adding the salt, pepper, palm sugar and salam leaves in with the paste. Cook for about seven minutes in low heat. This yellow paste will last for about two weeks in the fridge or you can freeze it for a longer shelf life.

Tuna skewers — Pepesan Be Pasih Pepes Ikan

Servings: 4-5

¼ lb of tuna

1 kafir lime. 2 tsp grated lime

14 kafir lime leaves

A few fresh cilantro sprigs (optional)

2 fistfuls of lemon, thai or regular basil

1 red chili

2 small sized tomatoes

Salt and pepper to taste

3 tbsp of base gede, basic yellow paste

4-5 lemongrass stalks

4-5 page-sized pieces of banana leaf

Banana leaves can typically be found in Hispanic and Asian super markets, but if not available you may also use corn husks and as a last resort, aluminum foil.

Shopping for ingredients the day before.

Tuna can be supplemented with any other non-flaky fish such as swordfish, salmon, halibut or sea bass, amongst others, or shellfish such as scallops or large tiger shrimp. One can also use a different type of protein such as chicken or gator, but cooking time will need to be extended until thoroughly cooked.

Step 1

Cut tuna into skewer-sized cubes. Dice the tomatoes into small wedges and slice chilies into thin stripes.

Step 2

Grate the outside of the aromatic kafir lime to yield around 2 teaspoons. Mix the ground lime with the base gede yellow paste, tuna, tomatoes, chilies, cilantro, basil, salt and pepper.

Step 3

This step is optional. Remove some of the lemongrass outer layers until thin enough to pierce the tuna chunks. The lemongrass will subtly imbue the meat with flavor while acting as a holder.

Step 4

After cleaning, washing and pat drying the banana leaves roll them out flat. Include around 4 to 5 tuna cubes in each skewer, place 3-4 kafir lime leaves and roll up in each banana leaf. The lime leaves are not to be eaten as they only act as a flavoring agent.

Step 5

Balinese typically grill the wraps over coconut shell coals, but they can just as easily be cooked in a steamer. Steam or grill for about 7-10 minutes based on the intensity of the heat.

Disclaimer: This story contains some graphic imagery.

In one fell swoop, the thief snatched my mother’s thin gold necklace and fled the scene, zig-zagging between cars before I could even muster a single word. My heart froze, I turned to her as she gazed down in sheer shock. The necklace was gone. On that dreary morning my mother had decided that I was old enough to accompany her to the central market. This was the same day that I would meet the infamous chicken lady.

Lima in the eighties was in constant flux and one needed to be alert the majority of the time. The propensity for crime and dissonance on the street was heightened by sirens and barking stray dogs. The market epitomized all of this in one centralized location.

After a few rounds through the vendor corridors, we ended up at the chicken lady’s stall. This was the first time I had seen an animal being butchered, one of many lessons my mother set out to bestow upon me at a tender age which would forever be etched in my mind. I was equally overwhelmed with sympathy and overtaken by a primal curiosity as the cycle of life unfolded right in front of me.

Fast forward twenty eight years where I find myself dodging bats through the pitch dark sacred monkey forest on my way to experience one the most intense moments in my life.

The macaque monkeys of the sacred forest.

The forest was the shortest path available to central Ubud, so I woke up at four in the morning, grabbed my headlamp and made a b-line towards Ibu Oka where I would document the Balinese process of roasting a whole suckling pig.

The eponymously named Ibu Oka restaurant is the crown jewel for locals and food adventurers alike. It’s a family-run business that offers one thing and one thing only: the unrivaled Babi Guling sampler “spesial”, which is comprised of a combination of nasi (simple rice), sayur urab (mixed vegetables), daging (pork roll), gorengan (pork fritters), sosis (blood sausage) and kulit (pork skin).

The Special sampler served with rice, vegetables and pork four ways.

Rice is an integral part of the Balinese diet.

Our first culinary pilgrimage in Bali took place at Ibu Oka, and while it is a bit tricky to get to, it was worth the trek.

Before the bill came, I asked the proprietor’s son, Agung Edi, if I could check out the roasting chambers and without hesitation he took me downstairs to their outdoor kitchen.

I inquired if it would be possible to come back and take part in the roasting process, he agreed and recommended that I make it back at 4:45 am the next morning, I humbly replied "of course". The next morning rolled around and after crossing the monkey forest I finally made it to the main road that led to the restaurant.

Day and night.

It was as though the owner and restaurant patriarch, Agung Oka, was waiting for my arrival. He barely spoke English and carried an impactful presence, resembling a swarthy fixture in a Tarantino film, yet as with most Balinese people he was delightfully welcoming.

We sat down and without skipping a beat, he handed me an unfiltered cigarette and one of the sludgiest cups of coffee I’ve ever drank, both of which I accepted with only minor apprehension. This was going to be a good day.

I’ve lived a pretty itinerant life, but nothing could prepare me for the sight I was about to encounter. Once we finished our coffee, a Balinese staple known simply as ‘Bali kopi’, we headed downstairs where he introduced me to the cooks.

One of the men handed me a razor sharp knife as another held down the pig. Even though I have put animals down in the past (for the sole purpose of providing a food source) I just couldn’t bring myself to do it on that day.

Exceptional food takes patience, courage and creativity, and it takes incredible determination to wake up that early to do it all over again, and like clockwork these men do it every single day. They stand in front of the roaring flames hand cranking the roaster while tending to the beast to feed the ever praising hoards of customers walking through their doors.

The pigs are lathered with coconut water and basted with home-made coconut oil before going on the fire, fueled by coconut shells and coffee plant wood — according to Anung, the best type of wood for suckling pig.

Coconut cream and oil made every morning.

Whole hogs are stuffed with a paste made from hot chilies, aromatics and roots including fresh galangal, turmeric, and ginger, then roasted on a hand-turned spit over blazing hard wood.

The end result is Babi Guling, the most crispy-skinned, fragrant, and succulent roast pork I’ve ever savoured.

The roast takes just over five hours for a whole pig so after the first hour I headed over to Ubud’s central market and walked around town before coming back to the restaurant towards the end to once again taste the fruit of their labor.

Every day, farmers, vendors, and regular folk congregate at the morning market.

It is vibrant, colorful, and teeming with life adding to the cacophony that resonates with each sun rise.

Back at the restaurant. The calm before the storm.

When I signed up for Ibu Oka I got more than I bargained for, but I wouldn’t have had it any other way.

I never imagined that I would ever get married, but then one night she walked into the bar.

On that same foggy San Francisco evening I asked Zara if she would go to the zoo with me, a legitimate request, mind you. It goes without saying that she turned me down on the spot. A few weeks later as she was dining with some of her Designer comrades I approached her table in a room full of patrons and handed her a clichéd red rose, while wearing a Mexican luchador mask. Once again I asked her if she would do me the honor of taking her to the zoo and before she could give me an answer I went on my merry way. At the time it felt like a bold move, but in retrospect maybe it wasn’t the best idea as I recall the waitress’ startled expression as soon as I entered the Mexican restaurant.

During one of our first trips to New York City we walked down the Brooklyn bridge and were taken by a wonderful sight of love padlocks. She was touched, turned to me and promised that one day we would have a lock with our names on it. Two years later, on May fourth of 2012, I asked Zara for her hand in marriage (via a message on a lock) as we walked on the Brooklyn bridge towards Williamsburg. There is now a lock on that bridge with my proposal written on it.

In over four years together, my best friend and I have danced in New Orleans, swam in Amazonian waters and secret cenotes, clocked in thousands of miles on the road, camped out in the great outdoors on countless occasions under a blanket of shimmering stars, and meandered through the vibrant streets in old Jerusalem, amongst many other adventures. And we are just getting started.

With joyous hearts we invited some of the most important people in our lives to bear witness on that Istrian hilltop. The year before, Zara and I were on a quest traveling South towards the Dalmatian coast to fulfill a promise, and on our way there we stayed in the enchanting medieval hamlet of Motovun. We were so enamored by this quaint town and its surroundings that I quickly turned to her and said this it it! It felt like this place chose us, and exactly a year later we returned to Motovun.

Of course, no wedding ever goes completely as planned, and on that day I almost didn’t make it to my own. Food is such as integral part of any occasion and as we were offering a spread in addition to a roasted suckling pig, I had to go down and observe the process.

However, what I didn’t anticipate was that my friend Klaudio and I had completely underestimated the amount of time it took to to get and from the farm. Admittedly everyone knows that I’m always running on Peruvian time, but this was a close one so we rushed back to the house just in time as the guests were starting to trickle in.

After reciting our vows we celebrated the night away in the presence of family, old and new friends.

We wouldn’t have been able to pull off our day if it wasn’t for our closest friends who quickly dropped everything to assist us in greeting guests, and decorating the house for the grand occasion. We will forever be grateful for their help.

Our dear friend David, gracefully officiated the wedding and hand-picked the flower arrangements from the valley itself.

Wise men say only fools rush in, but I can’t help falling in love with you…

December, for most, is that special time of year when we prepare for holiday festivities, battle wintery weather conditions, and travel to visit with our loved ones. For some, it is a time to escape all of that and take advantage of having some free time to hit the road. A couple of years ago, my wife, Zara, and I opted for adventure and made the decision to take a 13 day road trip through the rugged American Southwest, our primary destination being Taos, New Mexico, the Land of Enchantment.

Starting from our former home of San Francisco, two days later following our drive via the iconic route 66 we arrived in Taos on Christmas day, just in time to witness a perfectly suited spectacle to begin our Southwestern experience, the astonishing dance of Los Matachines. It is an ethnic and colorful ritual involving the residents of Taos Pueblo and having been celebrated for many generations since man started to define borders.

Often performed on Christmas day, its setting is unlike any other I’ve encountered, set against the breathtakingly beautiful, adobe-laid backdrop that is Pueblo. It is a multi-sensory experience; smoke rising from burnt wood and wild sage; the sound of drums and syncopated stomps generated by dancers clad in deer and buffalo hydes hitting the clay-colored ground in unison on their way to center stage; the presence of the elusive Hum flowing through the Taos mountains.

Los Matachines dance is a conflux of Christian Spanish, Mexican, and Native American folklore; an anthropological wonder with archaic origins that should only be witnessed in person. Unfortunately no photographs or video is allowed in the Pueblo, which makes it even more special and personal.

While in Taos we took a day trip to Bandelier National Monument to explore the famous Anasazi cave dwellings and on the road south of Taos we serendipitously stumbled upon the endearing gas pump museum in Embudo, NM — a must-see attraction.

Vintage signs and unrestored pumps.

Bandelier National Monument bolsters a deep and rich history and is one of the most important ancient pueblo sites.

Numerous pictographs and carvings can be found etched into the porous dwellings surfaces. It is a wonderful place to visit in the winter because there are very few people at the site during this time of year. With snow on the ground and crystal clear skies, the surrounding monument sits perfectly still in the midst of birds, grazing deer, and rabbits.

From Taos we made a b-line towards Durango, Colorado, winding through snow-covered mountains as the sun rose around us, illuminating the picture-perfect winter landscapes with deep purples and oranges.

We happened upon the picturesque town of Pasagosa Springs. It is quite a sight to take in as the town appears engulfed by the natural sulphuric fog that powers and warms much of the town.

Our trip was then followed by a succession of memorable landmarks including the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, and the Four Corners where incredible terrain conjures up images of old Spaghetti Westerns and roaming dinosaurs.

Moenkopi dinosaur tracks near Four Corners.

Four Corners: where four states meet.

Southwestern rim of the Grand Canyon.

The Mittens, Monument Valley, Utah – Arizona. Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii, meaning valley of the rocks.

Next, we set our sights on the secluded Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Apache County, Arizona. We traveled through the Navajo Nation, the road dotted with emaciated horses, dilapidated homes and dry brush — exhausting images that showed us the unfortunate truth of the living situations for most in the area, but the landscape still holds a lot of beauty and the mysteries of the Anasazi people.

One of the draws to Canyon De Chelly is the famous prehistoric Sliding House Ruins, otherwise known locally as Kináázhoozhí. We fortunately carried a high-powered scope with us and were able to view ancient drawings on the wall of the canyon floor, from up high on the canyon ridge.

For a unique experience we decided to stay in one of the nearby Navajo hogans in Spider Rock campground, recommended by our friend Tracy who had spent time in the area. Again, it being the dead of winter and a holiday, it was peaceful and we had the whole area to ourselves, except for our skinny little friend Logan, who greeted us joyfully as we pulled into camp. We grew very fond of Logan and gladly shared some of our meals with him.

Our first evening at camp we improvised a rustic stuffed lamb dish served with veggies on the side cooked right in the fire pit. We picked up some herbs and a fresh cut of lamb and stuffed the lamb with a mix of chopped mint, crushed nuts (from our collection of road snacks), as well as salt, black pepper and some mustard packets we picked up at gas stations throughout the trip.

Asparagus stalks with a few slices of prosciutto, black pepper, olive oil and a few squeezes of lemon juice.

After the lamb has been cut into a single long semi-thin slab for rolling purposes, stuff with the mix and roll while tying the exterior with butcher’s twine. Add a few rosemary sprigs and crushed garlic around it, dust the outside with the spices including some salt, black pepper and cumin powder, and drizzle it with a bit of olive oil. Lastly, cover the lamb in foil and place right on the hot coals for about 15-20 minutes, while turning from time to time. Once removed from the foil, place on direct flame tosear the meat before serving.

With a little bit of planning and some creativity, one can create wonderful meals even in remote locations.

For the last leg of our journey back in California, we took in one last sight and camped again at perhaps one of the most sought-after and mystical destinations in Southeastern California’s Mojave Desert. Joshua Tree feels like stepping back in time, with coyotes and abundant yucca trees speckled across the arid dessert and giant boulders forming a natural fortress as twilight cloaks the sky during night fall.

Since we had some prosciutto left from our last meal at Canyon De Chelly, come dinner time we stuffed chicken breasts with arugula and a few slices of fontina cheese.

Tip: If cooking outside while on a road trip, always carry a small thermometer to measure your meat’s interior temperature, especially while cooking at night since it’s hard to gauge proper doneness. I’m personally partial to the Thermapen, but any portable thermometer will do.

Back in my sous chef days, I would typically cook the stuffed breasts on a pan while finishing them in the oven with a reduced marsala sauce, but this time around we worked with a simple iron camp grill, which in my opinion works just as well, if not better.

I wasn’t raised in the U.S. and over time I have heard mixed feelings about the Southwest from Americans and non-Americans alike, but having experienced it so intimately for myself, frankly I have to admit that it may have been one of the most amazing trips of my life. In our years of traveling the world, we don’t always get to encounter a place with as much cultural richness, historical significance, and sheer natural beauty as we did on this journey through the American Southwest.

The day before our wedding Zara was enjoying a girl’s day in the nearby coastal town of Rovinj, so I decided to do something special for myself. I embarked on a pre-arranged truffle hunt with my friend Tracy, my father-n-law, Rodney, and his partner, Marybeth, and the closest thing to my kin (as my brothers hadn’t arrived yet), my old friend Sal joined by his lovely wife, Magdalena.

What happens when you throw a get together and your guest list suddenly double in size? That’s exactly what ensued when we hosted a backyard party at our place this past summer. Luckily, we had plenty of food and libations to go around, but I remembered these beautiful lamb racks I had in the fridge so I left the crowd and quickly dusted some rub to the lamb with a pre-made blend and on the grill they went. I call them “lamb pops,” and they’re the perfect bite-size crowd pleaser.

Recently I’ve been joining my good friend Kyle in the art of salumi making. Kyle is very knowledgeable on the subject, an alchemist even as the process requires precision, creativity, and most importantly patience.

There are a wide variety of campfire cooking stoves in the market, but this home-made version is pretty efficient considering it takes less than twenty minutes to make with just a few simple tools.

What I like about this stove created by Tom Allen is its light weight including the fuel, which makes it a great option when backpacking in the woods. Speaking of fuel, we highly recommend using medical rubbing alcohol which can be easily distinguished once lit by smothering the flame with a container so no more oxygen flows in. Whatever you do please stay away from fuels like gasoline or kerosene!

Step 1

Cut the can in half with scissors and leave about two inches from the bottom while maintaining an even height around the entire can. Repeat the same step with the top part of the can. You can also use a sharp knife if in a bind, but scissors definitely work best.

Step 2

Cut the top of the can and push in any left over sharp ends you may have missed. Be careful not to crush the can in the process.

Step 3

Take the top of the can and with the back of your knife, dent the can carefully at the bottom of the entire circumference, and spread this out about an inch apart, from start to end.

Once it’s lit, the ridges will act in the form of conductors, but you should position your top half can inside the bottom piece for it to work properly.

Step 4

The last step is to add a tiny hole at the top of the can once both pieces are slid into place. You want to perforate the metal through and add just a very small hole. Following this you can add some rubbing alcohol before lighting up the stove.

As convenient as this stove is for cooking purposes while trekking light, it can also come in handy in potential survival situations.

Nothing takes you back down memory lane like a classic grilled cheese. It is versatile, filling and really easy to make, but given its minimal number of components one has to pair them up just right.

One of our absolute favorite grilled cheese sandwiches comes from Golden, Brown, Delicious (GDB) in the Point Reyes Station Farmer’s market.

What makes it so delectable aside from the crunch is their use of high quality ingredients from Cowgirl creamery’s cheese and the delicious local bread supplied by our friend Celine’s Brickmaiden bakery.

Paninis are the perfect mid-day snack while camping so we thought we’d grill up a few different recipes in our backyard to recreate at one of our upcoming camping excursions. The wonderful folks from family-owned Sartori in Wisconsin were kind enough to provide us with a great selection of stunning cheeses to incorporate into our recipes.

Grilled asiago cheese with sautéed mushrooms, thyme and a hint of black truffle shavings

For these recipes we used a ciabatta and a sourdough from our local Grand Central bakery.

First, sautée the sliced shimeji and beech mushrooms in olive some oil with a handful of thyme, a smidgen of diced garlic, fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Set aside once it’s done.

Brush both sides of the bread slices with some clarified butter and add a few slices of white or black truffles. We also added a few drops of the black truffle oil from the same bottle they came in.

It is important to add an even coat of butter specially on the outside part of the slices which will give the grilled bread that desired crispiness.

Add the cheese slices and mushrooms, top with the second bread slice and place on the grill until it’s golden brown. For the first two recipes, we used our handy panini press while on the grill.

Tip: As another option to mushrooms one could also caramelize onions with some thyme while matching it up with a stronger cheese like goat cheese or a milder alternative (e.g.: manchego, fontina or gruyère) with a few blue cheese crumbles given the sweetness in the reduced onions.

Grilled aged Bellavitano cheese with smoked brisket and BBQ sauce dip

I smoked a brisket ahead of time to use in this recipe, but you can also use roasted beef as an alternative.

For the butter coat, we mixed the clarified butter with some finely diced chives.

The smokey meat and BBQ sauce were nicely balanced by the nutty Cognac Bellavitano cheese.

Tip: Avoid cooking the grilled cheese on direct fire as it will darken the surface of the bread fairly quickly, instead wait until the coals are nice and hot for a slower grill that will also heat up the contents quite nicely.

Grilled aged goat cheese with a fried egg and aged balsamic vinegar drizzle

The key here is to fry the egg just right so you get a nice spread of the egg yolk as you bite into it. Set aside once it’s done.

Brush the bread slices and place the egg on top of the cheese slices. The velvety yolk is perfectly complimented by the piquant goat cheese and the sweet and tangy aged balsamic vinegar.

We only added a small drizzle of the sirupy vinegar as an accent to avoid making it too sweet. For this recipe avoid using the panini press if you are using one as it could crush the egg yolk with its weight.

All three recipes turned out better than we expected and while there are countless combinations of grilled cheese, these will give you a nice start.

Recently I read an interesting article citing how a week spent camping out in the wilderness is enough to reset one own’s circadian clock. Lately I’ve been feeling like I could use a week in the outdoors without the need to connect digitally to the world. We all need our own form of escapism and for Z and I, nothing beats a great camping trip to recharge the batteries.

We have only lived in Portland, Oregon for just over five months after making the move from our former home and beloved San Francisco, but I believe I’ve found the place where I could spend an entire week fishing and relaxing while preparing delicious meals on an open fire. Timothy Lake is situated about 50 miles southeast of Portland in the luscious Mt. Hood National Forest and is the perfect destination to unplug from civilization.

I’ve known my friend John for as long as I can remember. We first met at Vancouver Film School in the late nineties and little did I know that we’d a forge a strong friendship lasting nearly twenty years so far. I consider him like a brother; the type of guy I can confide in knowing there wouldn’t be an ounce of judgement.

Blue, you’re my boy!

Endless, over-worked nights fueled by the typical ramen, black coffee, and power bars have indelibly been etched in my mind, and I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

We’ve managed to cross paths in many cities over the years and somehow have now both ended up planting roots in Portland, Oregon. We see each other often, of course, and recently he came by for a little backyard grilling.

If I could BBQ 365 days of the year there is no doubt that I would. We’re constantly trying out different grill and barbecue ideas, to not only keep challenging ourselves, but also to take advantage of these warm summer nights, which we try to enjoy outside as much as possible…

Growing up in Lima, I had access to a bounty of high quality fish and a diverse selection of seafood, so it is no wonder that I gravitate to dishes that contain creatures of the sea. And for obvious reasons, cooking them directly over the fire is something I’m also partial too.

Steamed shellfish, such as muscles and clams are quite typical, but have you tried grilling them? Baked oysters are fairly common in some areas, but grilled mollusks are something else. If you can get your hands on some large clams, definitely give this shot.

The very popular Asari Sakamushi, steamed clams in soy, butter and garlic, is a quick and bright Japanese dish to share around the table, but as I lean towards cooking with fire, I decided to grill them up instead. Here is a great adaptation by Nami at JustOneCookbook. Give it a try and let us know what you think!

You’ll need:

4 Cherrywood, giant little neck or top neck clams. 2 per guest

½ green onion finely chopped

2 tbsp of unsalted butter

2 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp sake

1 tbsp mirin

Serves: 2
 Cooking time: ~6 minutes Prep time: 2 shakes of a dog’s tail

Step 1

After scrubbing the clams thoroughly under running water, go ahead and de-grit them to release any of the sand that may have been trapped inside.

Step 2

Get your grill and coals ready. Either lump coal or briquettes will do.

Step 3

Mix the liquids in one bowl as shown below. Set your butter and green onions aside after chopping. The onions will not only add incredible flavor, but also act as a form of garnish.

Step 4

Place the clams on the hot coals and they should start opening within a minute or two. Once they open up, remove the top lid by holding down the bottom half with a heat-resistant glove or a towel — whatever works for you to avoid getting burnt.

Step 5

Once the lids are removed, add the liquid, butter and top off with the green onions. Allow for the butter to fully melt and at around the 4-5 minute mark (depending on the size of your clams) the sauce will start to bubble up and slightly caramelize around the rims, at this point remove from the coals to get ready to serve.

Step 6

I like Nami’s approach in that she forms a small mount of salt underneath where the clams will rest to avoid them from moving around on the plate and from spilling the juices over.

Look forward to hearing how yours turn out…

Tanoshimu.

It all started with a trip to see the majestic tule elk about four years ago, on the way towards the Tomales bay trail.

The elk can usually be spotted lining the road leading on to the ocean, tend to seclude themselves in herds, and if you are lucky you might find yourself staring at a ten point buck just twenty yards away.

This will be the first of a two part series I’m calling “Cooking with fire” and I’ll start by talking about two different types of camping fires, fire building basics, and burning materials. In the second part of the series I’ll walk you through ways to best maintain a healthy fire to produce delicious and well-cooked food.

Smokey the Bear was an icon when I was a youngin

One of my favorite travel books is Hot Sour Salty Sweet, and while at first glance it may come off as a recipe book, it’s far more than that. The authors’ insatiable curiosity is apparent towards understanding and capturing the essence of the communities, regional flavors and techniques they were exposed to throughout Southeast Asia.

This book really resonates with me and is an inspiration to us for where we would like to take this humble blog; a chronicle of our experiences focusing on the places we visit, the people we encounter and of course, the food we experience along the way.

Kids playing bingo in the streets of Bangkok.

If you haven’t tried it already, grilled asparagus wrapped in prosciutto tastes heavenly, but I also love the fragrance and simplicity of a well-grilled scallion with a hint of salt. So to switch things up a bit, I decided to wrap up a trio of green veggies with paper thin prosciutto before throwing them on the grill. And I mean paper-thin, ask for this the next time you go to your local butcher as you should be able to almost see right through the salumi.

With spring in the air, backyard BBQ sessions are happening all around. To help increase your repertoire, this week we will be posting a series of quick go-to recipes that are designed to please all your guests.

A great burger takes the right combination of ingredients, textures and flavors and a simple approach will go a long way. Even better, the smaller slider is a perfect two-bite snack you can enjoy with a few cold ones in the yard.

Depending on the ingredients I typically strive to achieve a balance of salty, sweet, sour and fat, but I’m also partial to adding some heat as well. For this particular recipe, the sweetness comes from the mixed produce in the meat and the bun, the sour from the pickle brine and mustard, the salty and fat from the cheese and seasoned meat and the ‘heat’ from the radish sprouts and a few dashes of chipotle tabasco.

Lamb meat seasoning

1 lb ground lamb meat

4 green onions, diced — as an alternative to regular onions

1 small red bell pepper, cubed

1 egg

1 previously boiled or grilled corn, sliced

1 tbspn of cumin powder

1 tspn paprika

Salt and pepper to taste

Dashes of chipotle tabasco sauce

Step 1

After cutting up the vegetables, using a large bowl, mix all the above ingredients and the meat with your hands before shaping them into golf-size patties. The egg acts as the binder, while the chipotle tabasco sauce adds a hint of heat and flavor to the meat.

Step 2

Place the meat on the barbecue for a few minutes until it is thoroughly cooked, about 4 minutes.

Step 3

While the sliders are getting fired up, take this time to prepare your accoutrement, which is made up of pickled purple cauliflower and carrots from Mariquita farm and dijon mustard.

Chop the pickles up into small cubes before combining with a few spoonfuls of dijon mustard. In this case I added in one of my favorites, Edmond Fallot tarragon dijon mustard, cracked pepper, and poured in some of the pickling juice before mixing them all together into a chunky paste.

Step 4

Spread the condiment on the bottom bun, which has been briefly grilled to add a crunchy texture to the Hawaiian dinner roll. These rolls have some sweetness to them which should compliment the meat quite nicely.

Step 5

As soon as the lamb is pulled out of the fire, it’s time to assemble your slider; top it off with a bit of crumbled roquefort blue cheese, which will start to slowly melt on contact with the hot meat. Finally, arrange the radish shoots above the cheese before handing out to your guests.

Mahalo.

We’ve all been there at some point, from waking up with hiking battle wounds to a lack of beauty sleep to the inevitable few too many the night before while sharing stories around a camp fire, a hearty breakfast can be exactly what the doctor ordered.

Enter chilaquiles a la Mexicana.

From the eggs to the sauce and veggies, it is a wholesome breakfast meal that you can evolve to make it your own. You can substitute the red sauce with a green sauce (tomatillo salsa verde), add grilled nopales and/or poached shredded chicken and finish it off with a generous dab of freshly made pico de gallo.