Crafting Curio

so @princetofbone mentioned on my post for "factory settings" about wanting to know more about the binding style that i used for it. so i thought i might make a post about it.

i was as terrible as i always am for taking in progress shots, but i can link you to the resources i used in order to make my book. i would also like to point out that "factory settings" is my 120th bind, and i have been doing bookbinding as a hobby for just over 3 years now. unfortunately this means some of the methods that i used for that bind aren't particularly beginner friendly, just in terms of the tools and methods i have used, but i would love to point you in the right direction when it comes to resources. i dont say this to sound pretentious which i fear i might come across, just so that youre fully informed. getting into this hobby is fun and rewarding, but it can definitely be intimidating.

with that caveat, heres a list of links and resources that i have used for bookbinding in general, with additional links to methods i used specifically in regards to this bind.

ASH's how to make a book document. it gives you a great introduction into typesetting fics (where you format the text of fics to look like a traditionally published books) and then turning them into a case-bound book (the style i used for "factory settings"). it is comprehensive, and explains how to use microsoft word to do your bidding. it was invaluable to me when i was just starting out! currently i use affinity publisher to typeset/format my fics for printing, but i only bought and learned how to use that after i had been binding books for a year and a half. i made some beautiful typesets with word, and some of my close friends use it still and design stuff that i never would be able to in my wildest dreams (basically anything by @no-name-publishing)

DAS Bookbinding's Square Back Bradel Binding. a great style to do your first bind in! this method requires, when making the case, to attach the cover board and the spine board to a connecting piece of paper, which makes it so much easier to match the size of the case to the size of the text block (your printed out and sewn fic). using this method is what allowed me to get much more accurately fitting cases, and made me much more confident with the construction of the books i was making. a well-made book is something that is so wonderful to hold in your hands!

DAS Bookbinding's Rounded and Backed Cased Book. This is the specific method that i used to create my bind for "factory settings"! even before i could back my books, i found that watching DAS's videos in particular helped me see how books were traditionally made, and i was able to see different tips and tricks about how to make nicer books.

Book Edge Trimming Without... i trim the edges of my text block using my finishing press and a chisel i have sharpened using a whetstone and leather strop with buffing compound on it. i follow the method for trimming shown in this video!

Made Endpapers. i follow this method for my endpapers, as i used handmade lokta endpapers, and they can be quite thin, but they look beautiful! i used "tipped on" endpapers (where you have your endpaper and then put a thin strip of glue on the edge and attach it to your text block) i used for a very long time before this, but these feel like they are much more stable, as they are sewn with your text block.

Edge Sprinkling. this is the method that i used for decorating the edges of my text block. but the principle is basically clamping your text block tight and then sprinkling the edges. i do not believe you need to trim the edges in order to do sprinkles on the edges, and that's what makes it accessible! i personally just use really cheap acrylic paint that i water down and then flick it onto the edges with my thumb and a paint brush.

Double-Core Endbands. i sew my own endbands, which i followed this tutorial for. that being said, it's kind of confusing, and this video is a bit easier to follow, but it is a slightly different type of endband.

Case decoration. i used my silhouette cameo 4 to cut out my design for "factory settings" in htv (heat transfer vinyl). i also used my cameo 4 to cut out the oval of marbled paper on the front, as i honestly didn't want to try my hand at cutting an oval lol. i also glued some 300 gsm card with an oval cut out of the centre of it onto the cover before covering it with bookcloth, to get a kind of recess on the cover. i then glued the oval of marbled paper onto the top of the recessed area once it was covered with bookcloth, so that it was protected. the images i used were sourced from a mix of rawpixel, canva and pixabay. a more accessible way to get into cover decoration is by painting on a design for your cover as described in @a-gay-old-time's tutorial just here. or even doing paper labels, which look classy imo.

physical materials. sourcing these will depend on your country. i am located in australia, and have compiled a list with some other aussie bookbinders of places to buy from. here is a great post describing beginning materials for getting started binding.

@renegadepublishing. this tumblr is great! its what got me started bookbinding, and being in the discord has been inspiring, motivating, and honestly just one of the best online experiences i have ever had. it is full of resources, and most people in there are amateur bookbinders, with a couple of professionals thrown in. the discord is 18+, and anyone can join!

Repurpose shitty books

"But!!!" You may say, "no book is shitty! All human experiences are worth putting to paper!"

You're right! But, also, Counterpoint:

I went to my local thrift shop and got these for the low price of $5 for all 10. ("Getting into politics?" The lovely ladies behind the counter asked me. "In a manner of speaking," I replied.)

Once I got home, it was easy to turn them into this, their component parts:

("Please stop saying you're skinning them," my partner begged. Too late!)

[EDIT TO ADD: Here's a guide! Also on my tumblr. Also - when thrifting, bring a piece of paper folded or cut into the minimum size you need for boards: this way you can make sure you're getting big enough material!]

While these are just book boards, diligent deconstruction can even yield headbands, I'm pretty sure - I'll report back on my next trial run. [EDIT TO ADD: yup, you can!]

I cannot overstate the delight I have in giving these covers new life for binding fanfiction, particularly the queer kind.

Another superbly skilled spinner kindly suggested I try out the Corriedale I have waiting in my fiber stash instead of diving back into commercially dyed merino and merino blends (I treasure the undyed fibers I have more and wanted to do them more justice), and I am SO glad I followed their wise advice as I practiced practicing on these little ~2oz samples. I immediately could see why they recommended the corrie and also why BFL is often recommended for beginners as well: I felt like I was doing something close to right.

I have one more sample to get to once I empty at least one of these bobbins, and then all that's left is trying to contain my excitement and hold back on spinning until Tour de Fleece officially starts!

And the final plied results from brushing off the heavy coat of rust off my spinning and doing some samples of the breeds I currently have.

Not anywhere near the weight I eventually want to be able to ply to, but a small step closer, and a small step closer toward consistent, as well. It was fascinating seeing how each wool gave me a different experience, and how much each of the plied yarns bloomed after a soak.

I really enjoyed my first foray into feeling and seeing the differences in working with different types of wool, and I've got a bunch more on the way to sample for Tour de Fleece next month.

🤎 Correidale, ~1.8oz, ~30y

🤍 Cheviot, ~2.1oz, ~32y

🩶 Bluefaced Leicester, ~2.1oz, ~31y

🧡 Shetland (broken top), ~2oz, ~43y

All fiber from Blue Moon Alpacas (shop | IG) and spun on my one and only Lendeum double treadle.

Two Shuttles wound continuously with your choice of size 30 thread.These instructions are for both shuttles, but for the shuttle at the top of the page, in all chains, picots are placed every 2 ds. 

Start on end with chain.

Both Shuttles Ch 3. SR1 4 : 4. SR2 12 p 3 : 12 p 3.

Shuttle #1 1.Cloverleaf (R1,2,3) R1 4 p 2 p 2. R2 2 + (to second p of previous ring) 4 vsp 3 p 2 p 2 p 3 vsp 4 p 2. R3 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 2 p 4. RW.

Ch 3 + (to p of SR2) 10. RW. R4 3 + (to vsp of R2) 3. RW. Ch 10 p 2. RW.

2.Cloverleaf (R5,6,7) R5 6 + (to 5th p of R2) 4 p 2. R6 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 6 sp 2 lp 2 sp 6 p 2. R7 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 4 p 6. RW.

Ch 2 + (to p of previous chain) 16 p 2. RW.

3.Cloverleaf (R8,9,10) R8 6 + (to last p of R7) 4 p 2. R9 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 6 + (to 2nd sp of R6) 2 + (to lp of R6) 2 sp 6 p 2. R10 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 4 p 6. RW.

Ch 2 + (to p of previous chain) 10. RW. R11 3 vsp 3. RW. Ch 10 p 3. RW.

4.Cloverleaf (R12,13,14) R12 4 p 2 p 2. R13 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 4 + (to vsp of R11) 3 + (to 2nd p of R10) 2 p 2 p 3 vsp 4 p 2. R14 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 2 p 4. RW.

Shuttle #2 R15 3 + (to p of previous chain) 12 lp 12 p 3.

Ch 3 + (to 3rd p of R15) 10. RW. R16 3 + (to vsp of R13) 3. RW. Ch 10 p 2. RW.

5.Cloverleaf (R17,18,19) R17 6 + (to 5th p of R13) 4 p 2. R18 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 6 + (to 2nd sp of R9) 2 + (to lp of R6) 2 sp 6 p 2. R19 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 4 p 6. RW.

Ch 2 + (to p of previous chain) 16 p 2. RW.

6.Cloverleaf (R20,21,22) R20 6 + (to last p of R19) 4 p 2. R21 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 6 + (to 2nd sp of R18) 2 + (to lp of R6) 2 + (to sp of R6) 6 p 2. R22 2 + (to last p of previous ring) 4 + (to 3rd p of R2) 6. RW.

Ch 2 + (to p of previous chain) 10. RW. R23 3 + (to 1st vsp of R2) 3. RW. Ch 10 + (to 1st p of SR2) 3. Tie off ends.

Trying to do a bit more cross stitch in addition to my usual blackwork. Experimenting a bit here with placing the shades of green. Cross stitch on 18-count Aida. I stitched it in a 7-inch hoop so I'd have space, then finished it in a 5-inch.

Also check out this Berlin dyer:

invaded by moths

flooded in spring

After digging all that out through many many tears, throwing out 22 industrial sized bags of yarn, fabric, and spinning fibre, and realizing how much of my stash wasn't enough for an actual project I would make it sadly changed my view of the stash.

Now EVERYTHING is in air tight buckets or mattress bags, and I'm actively working to use my stash, even if it's just putting yarn or fabric together with patterns to make in the future.

We will eventually get around to learning all of these, which one do you want to learn first?

Also we have many more styles planned, these are just the styles we have good tutorial resources for so far.

These styles all require some specialty tools/supplies, which I've listed below the cut in case that's a deciding factor for people. Pretty much everything can be DIY'd or repurposed from some other common objects, and this information will be shared as part of the lace-along :)