The upcoming fashion exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art examines âthe dressed bodyâ in art over the centuries.
LOT of thoughts about this thus far...
the (lack of) faces. ?????? rn i just don't get it, but i've already talked to people who viscerally despise it
WHY ARE THEY ALL WHITE IF YOU'RE AIMING FOR DIVERSITY ? pleeeease this is so basic. and i see nary a wrinkle!! where is age in this equation?
fascinating that the CI is pushing boundaries lately that even university museums are ignoring... & honestly, even if they're fumbling, I respect Bolton for it. i mean, i don't respect the lagerfeld retrospective, but between Superfine, Women Dressing Women, Camp...it's a good trend.
"we're gonna reuse the mannequins in future exhibits" ok hmm. some of them, sure. (the sinead burke one is already a reuse from Women Dressing Women.) On the other hand, the white-corset one?? HYPER-specific body shape there. And the larger ones...sure, they're realistic, but the ideal museum mannequin is one that is not only specific to an era's silhouette but also able to be used for multiple garments, styles, etc. These really can't be used for anything but 21st c. stretch clothing. (the bust isn't even uplifted for a bra, for ex.) Very limiting. I don't see these being used for historical dress at all :( (Ideally, they would make mannequins that have thinner bodies & thicker necks, arms, etc. so that you could pad out the torso to exactly what is needed and the external bits would match in thickness!)
i LOVE seeing the chiuri suit on a fat mannequin! solid yay. would love if they have more info about any 1940s uses on larger bodies, since that's the New Look Bar Suit.
Also excited to see michaela stark stuff!
I am really curious what the narrative here is going to be, esp. as there seem to be different sections - "pregnant body," "corpulent body" etc. How is that going to relate to "Costume Art" ?????
Addendum to prev: One big issue I had with Sleeping Beauties was that the main exh theme seemed very disconnected to most of what was actually in the exh. I am...sensing that that might happen again.
What do you mean, most mannequins are a size 2? I know that sizes aren't standardized, but most fashion mannequins are a 24" waist - size 0. The kyoto mannequins are between 20" and 0", depending. (waist cutouts.) What are you talking about, Bolton?? what am i missing? oh, you know what, i bet it's the bust size
i hope they asked emma mcclendon (who has published abt mannequins & diversity and did the 2017-18 body exhibition at MFIT) to consult.
i really, really hope this is inspirational for designers. i am really, really glad to see diverse bodies on display at all. i look forward to experiencing this exhibition.
actually, here. if anyone is interested in an academic perspective on fatphobia in the museum, i have written:
âAll the Ba-zooms Goâ: Industry Ideals and the Aesthetics of Size in Dress Collections (2024), an article in Dress that specifically deals with the Costume Institute and Diana Vreeland's curatorial legacy re: body ideals and fatphobia
a chapter in Fashionâs Missing Masses: The representation of marginalized populations in collections and exhibitions of dress (2026) on the presence of plus-size clothing in museum collections in the US as well as the fatphobia in curation. this one opens with a discussion of the plus-size mannequin in Women Dressing Women
both are derived from my MA thesis, Fat By The Wayside: Size Exclusion in Collections and Exhibitions of Dress (2022) which includes several hundred pages of interviews with museum professionals about this topic & their experiences. I wrote it 5-6 years ago and it got less editing so it's a little rougher, but hey, it's free to read!
Enjoy.
actually, wait. Go read this and then come back. vanessa friedman did not write that article in 2020 for the CI to still be doing all-white mannequins in 2026






















