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Every Starfleet Uniform Ranked By How Annoying The Sleeve Is To Sew, Part 2
Part 1
6. TOS Men's Uniform:
Here we have 1. Quite a severe curve 2. with a zipper in it 3. an invisible zipper at that 4. with pattern matching through the zipper at the collar
5. in velour (slippery). Woof.
7. Disco:
OK we've got two points of pattern matching, but they don't have to be too precise because they've got this round shiny striped piece between them. Of course that piecing means we're basically setting a sleeve in twice, but I will concede that the stretch will be more forgiving than a woven would be. Add in the piecing on the bicep and two different sticky rubber-y fabrics for further difficulty.Ā
8. TNG Version 2B and Voyager:
All the work of a tailored sleeve with an added inverse corner in an intersection of four seams.
PLUS two points of pattern matching, which is very tricky in an armsyce because you're trying to get the pitch right. You can see in TNG they often have trouble with it and have either a jog in the pattern matching
or too much ease in the wrong place to force the pattern to match.
They seem to have figured it out by Voyager though. I'm also fairly certain they have raglan shoulder pads in them instead of regular ones, which isn't really harder I guess but is a bit odd (no shade, they're incredibly flattering).
9. DS9/ TNG Movies:
All the difficulties of the TNG armscye and now we've added trim, meaning we really have four points of pattern matching instead of two. I could be persuaded that the contrast pieces are applied over the upper sleeve piece instead of pieced, which is easier than what TNG is doing.
10. Enterprise:
I think this is regular raglan sleeve and not some kind of half raglan/half set in sleeve like we see in TNG. Either way it's a bit easier than the TNG sleeve because the trim and yoke are applied on top and top stitched. But we've still got that mitered corner in our bias trim and our four points of pattern matching on the shoulder seam. And then we've also added like four zippers!!!
11. Picard:
What did the stitchers do to this designer? FOUR inverse corners (I guess at least it doesn't intersect a seam this time) PLUS the piecing at the cuff, PLUS all the pattern matching at the armscye, and all in stretch (I think). The only reason it's not the most difficult sleeve is because it looks fairly flat and I bet if you do a nice tight hand baste you can get everything lined up on the first try. Also this is not strictly speaking part of the sleeve but those little corners in the yoke? Good grief.
12. TNG Version 2A:
Never in my life have I seen an armscye like this. What is this even called? How do you construct it? I suppose I would sew the sleeve pieces together, set them in the armscye, then sew the raglan/yoke pieces together at the shoulder seam and then stitch them all the way across the front and then all the way across the back. But good grief. The ONLY other sleeve I could find remotely like this is this 1940s Simplicity pattern (it's on ebay if you want it).
With a few added seams you can imagine what these pattern pieces must look like.
13. TNG Version 1:
All the malarkey of 2A except you've got to do it in spandex. I'd pick wool any day. We also have a second yoke (?!) so now we have to do that little inverse corner TWICE and also add piping. Never in my life have I done an intersection of piping correctly the first time.
And then on top of all that it's ugly. Terrible sewing experience. Worst sleeve in Star Trek *bangs gavel*.
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Things I wish I had read in "beginner" sewing tutorials/people had told me before I started getting into sewing
You have to hem *everything* eventually. Hemming isn't optional. (If you don't hem your cloth, it will start to fray. There are exceptions to this, like felt, but most cloth will.)
The type of cloth you choose for your project matters very much. Your clothing won't "fall right" if it's not the kind of stretchy/heavy/stiff as the one the tutorial assumes you will use.
Some types of cloth are very chill about fraying, some are very much not. Linen doesn't really give a fuck as long as you don't, like, throw it into the washing machine unhemmed (see below), whereas brocade yearns for entropy so, so much.
On that note: if you get new cloth: 1. hem its borders (or use a ripple stitch) 2. throw it in the washing machine on the setting that you plan to wash it going forward 3. iron it. You'll regret it, if you don't do it. If you don't hem, it'll thread. If you don't wash beforehand, the finished piece might warp in the first wash. If you don't iron it, it won't be nice and flat and all of your measuring and sewing will be off.
Sewing's first virtue is diligence, followed closely by patience. Measure three times before cutting. Check the symmetry every once in a while. If you can't concentrate anymore, stop. Yes, even if you're almost done.
The order in which you sew your garment's parts matters very much. Stick to the plan, but think ahead.
You'll probably be fine if you sew something on wrong - you can undo it with a seam ripper (get a seam ripper, they're cheap!)
You can use chalk to draw and write on the cloth.
Pick something made out of rectangles for your first project.
I recommend making something out of linen as a beginner project. It's nearly indestructible, barely threads and folds very neatly.
Collars are going to suck.
The sewing machine can't hurt you (probably). There is a guard for a reason and while the needle is very scary at first, if you do it right, your hands will be away from it at least 5 cm at any given time. Also the spoils of learning machine sewing are not to be underestimated. You will be SO fast.
if i see one more article, post, or news anchor talking about how joe biden is old, i'm putting my fist through a window. i feel like i've gone through the fucking looking glass.
this is project 2025, trump's plan for what he'll do if elected. whatever you think is in there, it's worse. watch a breakdown of the highlights here. this man wants to unravel the fabric of our democracy for good - this all aside from his vitriolic hatred of poc, his determination to start ww3, and the fact that he can't string a sentence together without telling outrageous and easily verifiable lies. his administration will start their crusade to exterminate trans people on day one, and they won't stop there.
do not talk to me about how joe biden is old, as if that could ever matter to me more than my life or the lives of my friends and family. my little sister is 14, she's trans, and i don't know what to tell her when we talk about politics, because one of these people wants her dead and the other one is old and some of you are still acting like those problems are equals.
i can't fucking stand this. i'm not hearing it this time, we are not repeating 2016. refusing to vote is not an act of protest, it is an act of complacency, and our most vulnerable will suffer for your negligence. vote like your life depends on it, because for some of us, it really fucking does.
It's honestly frustrating hearing people talk about how Biden isn't the candidate for the job as if we have another option to pick besides that isn't Trump. And the lack of emphasis on how abhorrent Trump's behavior was on the debate is disturbing. I would rather an old man that should retire over a man that wants people dead.
I don't think Biden's fit to be president, but I don't think Trump's fit to be human, so I'll take the first one. A man who might well have to be replaced by his vice-president halfway through his term is infinitely preferable to one who will keep us from ever electing a leader again.
(Seriously, I cannot stress this enough: we have built-in protocol to deal with a president who can't do the job medically-speaking, it's fairly straightforward. We do not have protocol for how to handle a president actively trying to sabotage the nation.)
^We have built-in protocol to deal with a president who can't do the job medically-speaking, it's fairly straightforward. We do not have protocol for how to handle a president actively trying to sabotage the nation
I keep seeing people say shit like āI donāt like Bidenā or āI donāt think Biden is fit to be presidentā andā
WHY????
Like really, give me a reason. Heās old? Okay. So is Bernie, who the left was simping for four years ago. Most of our presidents have been. You have to be 35 just to be eligible to run. Barack Obama was our youngest-ever president and the work he did and wanted to do was deeply hobbled (in part) by his lack of age and experience. Youth is no guarantee of innovation.
So whatās next? He voted for bad things fifty years ago. Okay. I was a good little Christian girl who was going to get married, have five kids, and vote Republican (but only if my husband said it was okay for me to vote, of course) TWENTY-FIVE years ago. If I can make the jump to being a happily-childless queer socialist Jew with Evil Pronouns in 25 years, I think Biden can go a hell of a lot further in fifty.
So what else? WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM WITH HIM?! Heās done a hell of a lot more good than any other sitting president* in my lifetime, and I lived during the Clinton economy, so that is saying something.
*but not as much as Jimmy Carter, who wasnāt a particularly great president but is easily one of the best men to have walked the planet in the last hundred years.
Bidenās policies are not without problems from a leftist perspective. But he HAS moved the needle on so, SO many issues in ways that are so much more sustainable. Heās passed some of the most significant legislation since the New Deal. Heās done so much of what Obama could not achieve. He built on Obamaās foundations and ideology and RAN with it. Heās not perfect, and heās got a lot of room to improve, but heās built an effective approach to government.
He had a goddamned respiratory infection at the debate. And he was ceaselessly gaslighted with a tactic called the Gish Gallopāpulled STRAIGHT from Russian propaganda. And he has a goddamned communication disability called a stutter, you may have heard of it. Itās hard to mask or cope with your disability when youāre sick with something any one of us has had.
In contrast, he was debating a convicted felon who openly supports Russia and uses their tactics, who has a plan to make the country into an oligarchy headed by a dictator. And a man who has been seen to have serious symptoms of cognitive decline. He regularly says stuff that sounds a fuckton like word salad. If I encountered Trump and didnāt know who he was Iād be concern about potential dementia in addition to his thoroughly rotten character.
When the choice is between your well-intentioned if not always correct older uncle and LITERAL PROTO-HITLER, Iām gonna take the guy who sometimes uses my non-binary friendās wrong pronouns before correcting himself, versus the guy who is trying to have that trans friend exterminated.
Do you know youāre the first person Iāve seen, THE FIRST, to actually call Trumpās debate shenanigans by their proper name? Thatās insane. That is absolutely insane to me. There is a wholeass name for what he did and NOBODY IS USING IT. The so-called ānewsā media should be ringing five-bell alarms and instead theyāre handwringing over Biden.
not my meme but you all do know about this right? It feels like it's getting buried right now and I feel like its proponents are trying to take advantage of that.
Reminder also that their definition of "radical left" is primarily people who are accepting of gender identity, desire any tightening of even one gun regulation, want to combat police corruption in any way, and don't want a border wall.
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Can everyone who reads this PLEASE reblog it?!?!?Ā Libraries literally saved my life as a child!
Being abused at home, bullied at school and lost in the world, the library and all the books I could escape to the most amazing worlds, kept me alive!
I would walk to the library, and spend all day, from 10 am to 9 pm reading there!! I got special awards for how many books I read, I wrote little blurbs on why i loved the books (probably why I love to BETA and do ARCs)Ā
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE Just hit the green arrows and the reblog!!!
As a 50 year old woman, the library offers me so much. Digital art pads to borrow, 3D printing, book clubs that are face to face (yeah, the introvert likes face to face because a moderator will stomp on anyone getting snarky)
New books in LARGE PRINT! Iām visually challenged and as much as I love my kindle, The feel of a real book in my hands will always be a beloved feeling!
Our library also has quarterly books sales of almost free books!! For 5$USD we get in a day early and can buy as many as we want. Anyone else has to wait and there is a limit for the first 2 days.
Also many, many libraries have inter library loan(it may be called something different). This means if they donāt have the item you want, they can get it for you. This may include photocopy/pdf of articles. This can also include along with books and DVDs, microfilm/fiche which is also a huge resource. Check around for libraries that are listed as depositories if you want to look at government documents.
Remember that many colleges and universities have open stacks for the public. You will likely have to pay a membership fee but you will get to stuff.
The library was one of my favorite places to go as a kid and I still live to go and just. Sit and read. Or do homework. The university Iām at has a massive 8-story one I love to just wonder around in~ Great places
I used to wander about the fiction section in my local library, and choose books with the most interesting titles - I discovered two amazing authors that way
If you feel disconnected from your local community & want to find ways to get involved, seriously consider spending some time at the library. Go to some events! Organize a reading group!
For those who don't know, this piece is titled 'Unfinished Painting', by Keith Haring. He painted it about a year before his death of AIDs. I believe he actually finished other pieces between this one and his death. He left the majority of the canvas blank to represent his life and art career cut short due to HIV/AIDs. This was a deliberate choice and commentary about all that we lose (both personally and culturally) by ignoring the AIDs crisis at the time (1989). He was devastated he didn't have time to make more art. 'Finishing' Unfinished Painting is straight up spitting on Haring's grave and shows no understanding to the meaning behind the art. The AI interpretation doesn't even follow his extremely recognizable shape language and symbols. This is why people are angry about AI art. All commerce images and no meaning or humanity
AI 'art' reduces art to the immediate image on the page. It's all about consuming as much of it as quickly and easily as you can. It's an image devoid of context; it can't mean anything, because there's no intention behind it. It's just a random assembly of images, pulled from various other works and mashed up into an approximation of what the person writing the prompt has asked for. You can't read anything into it. It won't ask any questions of you, and it won't answer any either. You can't find meaning in it beyond its aesthetics. There are no lines to read between in AI 'art', and if there are any, they're probably just from someone else's picture.
the complete absence of christianity from pop culture perceptions of the medieval period really bugs me (or it being relegated to the fringes and a few monks somewhere)
like⦠this was a major part of most peopleās daily lives even if it didnāt necessarily look like christianity as we know it. also medieval theology is fucking wild! where are all the debates about cannibal babies in pop culture medieval stuff? WHERE is the twelfth century werewolf renaissance? the fuckign infancy gospels?? give me weird medieval theology you cowards
A lot of them had already been mentioned, so may I add
āThe dishes were only bland soups and maybe some moldy breadā
Iām studying English language and literature, not History, but like⦠Pork vs Pig⦠Deer vs Venison⦠Cow vs Beef⦠May give you the idea THEY FUCKING ATE MEAT AT LEAST GODDAMIT
And not even like we do
Whereās the feast with venison? The ridiculous amount of salmon and other fishes? The little gardens full of spices? Or the trade of exotic foods? Slaughtering season was celebrated in some places not that much ago (like⦠I saw one when little), why not portray one?
Yeah, and for better or for worse they were much less picky about which animals they ate than we are. Porpoise, anyone?
Medieval people loved their spices; The Forme of Cury has a lot of flavours Iād associate more with Indian food than anything else. Even if you werenāt a wealthy seasoning-loving king like Richard II, you could still have garlic, onions, and herbs.
Also please link me a picture of the chicken with helmet if you can, I need to see this.
Hollywood has a tendency to portray the past asĀ ājust like today, minus whatever of todayās things we know they didnāt have.ā Thereās no concept that the past had things that today doesnāt.
Going off the colors of textiles, the assumption that their textiles were always crude and rough compared to todayās. Think of the twills and brocades! The cloth of gold! The silks, and the wool so gauzy you could see through it! The soft wool clothing! The quality and variety of fabric we have available has plummetted since the industrial revolution.
beyond conventional spices the medieval cook and especially the resourceful housewife would have been exploiting herbs by the fistfull on a level we today cannot comprehend, like we dont even know what some of the names of herbs they used even mean anymore and they grew them like suburban homeowners today grow ugly border hedges. whatever soups they had access to had a decent chance of being something that would be 100% locally grown and every bit as flavorful as any regonal dish today withiout having to resort to saying āwell they could possibly have been eating curryā instead of giving them a flavor identity of their own. just because āspiceā isnt readily available dont assume āflavorā is out of reach, the aromatics they used would be on par with the modern french concept of mirepoix
but, moving past the kitchen the two things that irk me are that everyone toiled miserably and everything was grey stone, rudely carved buildings, shoddy construction unadorned
well yeah, if you went to a decrepit ruin thats been abandoned for centuries it would look like that, but not when people lived there! you see the shows and movies and sweet baby cheese the kings residence looks like a dank basement and sometimes he doesnt even have a change of clothes
when castles were in use they were prominent displays of power and wealth, whitewashed so that even small amounts of light reflected well inside them so that they illuminated well, paintings and murals in a riot of colors and displaying personal tastes, tapestries that may be the local lords wife, aunt, or grandmothers gift to them as tappestry making was a popular hobby at court where women gathered to gossip and giggle while making vibrantly colored decorations that are usually dismissed because the only ones that survive had endured about 500 years of sun damage, smoke damage, and uncertain cleaning history
that clearly showed the people of the time valued color, had style, and only occasionally made horses look like a dog made out of play-doh. even people who didnt live in a castle still had access to paint to liven up the plaster walls of their homes, brightly dyed fabrics and flowers were as available to them as
and they sang, constantly. what we assume was a life of toiling in the mud from dusk till dawn the whole year was typically a relaxed paced life of 10 hour a night sleep in a comfortable bed where work didnt start untill you had your flagon of ale and a song with your buddies as you walked to the field, you sang as you worked, took three ale breaks from work while singing, and then you sang as you walked to the tavern so you could sing while you played nine mens morris or cheated at mancala because you thought the miller was too soused to notice. we barely know any of the songs they sang and humanity is less for it, a scant handfull of them do remain and its just beautiful to hear what a table of tavern patrons would break into song about to prove they werent too drunk for another round
song and story were all day every day, theres a reason the most well known middle english text was canterbury tales- whose narrative was that a selection of travelers on the way to the same location had an ongoing bar-bet about who could tell the better story, asking bartenders to judge
the complexity of these stories, all of which were absolutely valid as just shit you would say to another drunk in a tavern, would give modern soap operas a swift kick in the pants and its sad that it takes a historian to tell you just how crass and lowbrow humor they were on a similar vein to how so many people somehow forgot that shakespear was lowbrow humor for the commoner and not somehow too sophisticated for rubes
it wasnt just bards who would own an instrument, instruments are wood, leather, string, bone/horn, or even clay⦠those are all commonly available and affordable if not straight up FREE items to someone in the medieval world so a hefty chunk of the population would have an instrument and know how to use it, anything from a wood flute to a simple drum to an ocarina. many designs were even specifically for travel so you could always have it at the ready
how about this- in all the versions of robin hood i have -EVER- seen the most historically accurate any of them got was the scene in kevin costner āking of thevesā where friar tuck was singing to himself while on the road āwomen wine and whoringā. not just because its one of the only times in any medieval period movie ive seen someone singing to pass the time in the mind-numbing hours of traveling before the invention of the car radio, but ALSO because they based the tune he sings off the classic ā Bache Benne Veniesā, the oldest known drinking song we still know the words and tune of and let me tell you that song slaps
talk to me about historical accuracy in movies and ill tell you that tolkein writing hobbit songs for walking, drinking, or describing what an elephant was was more historically accurate then all of GOT passed through a sieve to collect every grain of stray element of medievalness
gaily dressed hobbits full of pie, sitting in a well decorated room full of beautiful hand carved furniture, on their fifth ale, and singing about the man in the moon getting shitfaced is about ten times historically accurate as most anything else i can think of if you ignored the historical accuracy of them being hobbits
To be clear, when I say ālike Indian foodā, Iām not generalising or trying to deny them their own flavour profile, Iām talking about how Forme of Cury uses things like cardamom, ginger, and pepper that Iāve also had in curry or kheer. Iām just comparing it to the closest thing Iāve eaten, not saying the two are the same. My voice teacher did once make me a medieval French bean dish with duck and smoked bacon, and it was excellent.
But yeah, I know that some people get exasperated by the number of songs that Tolkien has in his books, but I really think it completes the world. It makes it feel fleshed out and more enjoyable and individual in its own right but also ties it to history. Singing is such an accessible pastime and I really donāt think people in fantasy do enough of it. (And as a bonus, Tolkien also gives us some Middle-earth lore in his lyrics. Which is great for the reader and also reflects how important an oral information-sharing tradition is within the world itself.)
I will say that even though Iām not a fan of many of the creative choices made in GoT, I can understand GRRM making his world in ASoIaF a bleaker place than is realistic because part of the whole thing of low fantasy is The World Is Shitty. Iāve heard people say that Dunk and Egg is a less depressing story and itās more of just a fun knight adventure. Iād like to read it. I definitely enjoyed ASoIaF, but itās just so heavy sometimes. As for GoT, I never finished it.
Ok so I cannot speak to the accuracy of everything here, but let me tell you a little bit about textiles because (obviously this is news to everyone) I Love Them.
I studied late antique textiles in undergrad. Late antiquity is a weird period with multiple different scholarly definitions, but the gist is that itās the transition period between the ancient and medieval worlds. Christianity was a thing, but people were also still heavily influenced by older stories/mythologies/religions (the vast majority of textiles that survive from this period come from Egypt because of the climate, so in this case itās Greek and Roman traditions that still hold influence).
Anyway. The textiles from this weird nebulous period of history are straight-up gorgeous, and not just to a nerd of my particular type. Take a look at Dumbarton Oaks or the Metās collections and come tell me that ancient/medieval hand-woven textiles were all rough and poorly made. And you know why people spent so many hours making these beautiful things painstakingly by hand? (Every single step of the process, by the way - shearing, carding, spinning, dying, all before you get to the actual weaving. This stuff was incredibly skilled, intensive labor.) They did it because textiles were incredibly important. We donāt think much of them now that they can be mass-produced, but there was a whole Thing with the Virgin Mary spinning and metaphors about her weaving Christ on a loom, and textiles were used for protective magic, and they were part of everything important in peopleās lives.
There were dyes that were prohibitively expensive, yes - Tyrian purple is literally still so expensive that we couldnāt buy a big enough sample to test our actual antique textiles against effectively. In the Byzantine Empire, it was controlled exclusively by the imperial family - hence the whole royal purple thing. But guess what? There are so many purple textiles, because people used other things! Madder and indigo! Both affordable! Mix them together and you get a very pretty color. Change up the mordants you use to seal the dyes and you can get a whole range of different colors out of one plant!
And people took these things and they wove them into literal artwork and wore it around on their clothes. They had hangings on their walls for decoration, sure (and also insulation and noise control), but they also had curtains! Textiles separated rooms the way wooden doors do now! The reason I have a weird thing for liminal spaces is because textiles were associated with them, and they were given power. The hanging in your doorway could protect your home from misfortune. Protective symbols around the neck and sleeves of your tunic could keep you from getting ill. And all of these things were pretty and colorful and painstakingly crafted by laypeople and professionals alike, and they were everywhere.
Basically, the ancient and medieval worlds were alive and full of color and magic. Not gray stone and plain cloth and misery.
And also textiles are important and you should love them.
ALSO this is what Roman socks looked like, and arenāt they adorable!
(This particular one is a childās sock and itās from the Royal Ontario Museum. A lot of other examples are red, possibly because red was a protective color - itās also more common in surviving childrenās items, likely because of high infant mortality and a need for extra protection for kids. Red was also common as a border color around sleeves and necklines and such - this is the liminal spaces thing I was squealing about!)
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