Job hunting in a hostile environment. ✨
yeah.
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Job hunting in a hostile environment. ✨
yeah.

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Finished stitching my Oversight series.
12 small embroidered poem-objects in wool, linen, cotton, silk, stitched on canvaswork mesh and edged in glass beads.
I just googled this and… yes, it’s absolutely real.
And there are so many articles and videos and discussions. Like, the scientific community is buzzing about this.
So much research will have to be redone because the data was absolutely compromised, off by orders of magnitude, by using standard lab gloves.
The world is probably not horrifically contaminated by microplastics. Sterile laboratories, however, are contaminated by latex and nitrile gloves.
Thank God someone bothered to check.
>I just googled this and… yes, it’s absolutely real.
Sources beyond dude just trust me, for the skeptics.
Scientists may have been unknowingly inflating microplastics pollution estimates, and the surprising source could be their own lab gloves. A
https://www.technologynetworks.com/applied-sciences/news/scientists-lab-gloves-may-be-causing-an-overestimation-of-microplastics-411138
Nitrile and latex gloves that scientists wear while they are measuring microplastics may lead to a potential overestimation of the tiny poll
Nitrile and latex gloves may cause overestimation of microplastics - Phys.org (it’s a pdf)
Researchers discovered a standard piece of lab equipment has added thousands of microplastic ‘false positives’ per each square-millimeter un
Ordinary Lab Gloves May Have Skewed Microplastic Data: That doesn’t mean microplastics aren’t a problem, though
That should be enough
Tech billionaires want to force data centers on us with little to no regard for water usage, energy price spikes, environmental harms, or basic democratic decision-making. We must rein in AI before it's too late.
For anybody not caught up: Tennessee just passed a new map that pretty much makes it so black neighborhoods have no power in local votes. Two things about this. While protestors were chanting "No Jim Crow", white Tennessee lawmakers were caught laughing on video. On top of this, Representative Justin Pearson and his brother KeShaun Pearson were arrested for trying to give their takes on the matter (which is not only their legal right but literally his job). If you give a shit about black people, help fight this. We can't allow a return to Jim Crow.
Heyyy guess where I live
A local paper had some great photographs, all taken by Nicole Hester:
The day before, Rep. Justin Pearson tries to attend a Senate Committee meeting and is barred access by the Sergeant at Arms.
Lawmakers and protesters link arms as the descend the capitol steps.
Once inside the chamber, Democratic representatives continued to stand together with arms linked.
They continued standing together with arms linked as votes were cast.
Democratic representatives take a group photo protesting the redistricting.
Rep. Justin Jones burns a photo of the Confederate flag with the words, We will not go back.
And stomps the ashes.
KeShaun Pearson being escorted from the building by the Staties.
KeShaun Pearson (left) being taken into custody. Rep. Justin Pearson (right) showing his support of his brother.
Additional information: State lawmakers have been gunning for Pearson and Jones nearly their entire terms. Most notably, in 2023, the House expelled them for participating in a protest at the Capitol. Their districts had to have special elections to have them reinstated.
Pearson is one of the plaintiffs of a lawsuit seeking an injunction against the redistricting.
The city most affected by the redistricting is Memphis, where locals are fighting against xAI's data center, which has been operating with very little oversight and is poisoning the people who live there. Here is a previous post on that with more information and more sources.

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been stewing on an analytical approach to fiction which I call "is this book afraid of me?" and in order to answer this question you determine how hard the book is trying to make sure you don't come after the writer on twitter
Tags via @deadpanwalking, editor and ass-kicker extraordinaire
Please keep making art. Please make it for yourself. Please don’t let everything become even more of the same flat general appeal nonsense that doesn’t seem to have anything to say
please stop trying to convince me the cause is righteous and convince me the tactics are effective
There used to be a plotline that goes something like "you're the best gamer in the world, and game was really just a covert training and recruitment tool, so now you're going to use those skills to fight aliens or whatever". It's more or less gone away, one of those speculative fiction tropes that did not stand the test of time.
I think it's a great premise though, and should start being applied to other hobbies.
"Ma'am, this regional knitting competition was actually a covert operation to find someone to run this machine of the elder gods we found buried in the desert."
"Congratulations on your silver play button, you are hereby inducted into the Paranormal Defense Force, a subsidiary of Youtube and a branch of the United States military."
"Welcome to the Olympic village. If you've made it this far, you're hereby recruited into the international super soldier program, fighting our enemies at the edge of the Crab Nebula."
the fun part is this did actually happen in real life once. during WWII, several british women solved a crossword really well and subsequently discovered they'd been recruited as cryptographers.

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I can't believe we live in a world where there's an AI company unironically called "Palantir," and it isn't a parody. It's a real thing. I remember seeing a picture of an advertisement on here and thinking, "This HAS to be a joke. This is too on-the-nose to be real. They wouldn't honestly name an AI company Palantir, after the Seeing Stones from Lord of the Rings that are supposed to offer knowledge, but famously also might be feeding you misinformation from evil sources because 'we do not know who else may be watching.'" But then here I am listening to the BBC News discussing why the CEO of Palantir just published a Manifesto that sounds like it was written by a supervillain.
What hapoened after 2005 with clothing quality? (Your comment a out Old Navy etc)
This is around when you start seeing spandex infest everything - spandex blends are prone to wonky shrinkage in the dryer, and the fabric just kind of shreds in a short period of time.
You also see more and more companies skipping steps like pre-washing fabric, so even previously "safe" options like 100% cotton shirts bleed and shrink a ton in the wash. (See a bog-standard 100% cotton shirt these days with dry cleaning instructions? Yeah, that thing will bleed everywhere, shrink in the dryer because the fabric hasn't been pre-shrunk, and the seams will also start bursting due to shitty construction.)
You also see print quality take a dive -- yarn-dyed fabric and screenprinting getting replaced with sublimation work. (I have 25 year old screen printed t-shirts that look better than anything modern that has gone through only 2 washes.)
We had a very brief, sweet-spot period in time where washing machines & detergent stopped being brutal on clothes, and fabric + construction was high quality, but affordable. 2005 is not an exact date for the end of this short era, but it's around there somewhere, imo. I would personally never thrift for anything post 2005, as a general rule of thumb. (Based on my experiences as older Gen X.)
Clothes also used to cost us more money, or at least a higher percentage of our income. People had smaller wardrobes to reflect that.
The rise of fast fashion thanks to internet retailers like Zara (often sourced as the originator of the trend), H&M, and Primark in the 90s and 00s realizing global supply and labor chains being shifted around in the wake of NAFTA and other international agreements, meant that they could debut new clothing year-round instead of just Fall and Spring. The links between designer, approval, production, and sales were growing shorter while markets were getting bigger with the rise of internet shopping. To maximize profits and minimize costs, materials were made thinner and stretchier across the board.
When you have a stretch poplin shirt or a pair of spandex blend leggings, it can fit more people in a generalized size range (S, M, L). It will also wear out quicker and be resistant to mending (once the intermixed stretchy fibers are severed, it's incredibly difficult to get it to stop degrading- like a run in a pair of stockings). Ever try to repair a hole in the inner thighs of a pair of stretch jeans? It's a pain in the ass to get it to stay that way.
The decline in union-made clothing also resulted in a loss of quality. Instead of being guaranteed a minimum wage, garment workers are paid by each finished piece, which incentivizes speed over quality. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of garment workers out there who are quick and accurate, but when factories push more styles and ridiculous quotas, corners WILL be cut.
Shoppers have also become accustomed to this year-round release schedule, which encourages manufacturers to embrace cheaper materials and labor practices to cover any losses. Did last month's turtleneck sweaters absolutely bomb in sales? No problem, they were mostly acrylic and sewn cheaply! On to the next microtrend...
Of course, shittier clothes also mean that people need to buy more often...
My partner above also reminded me about this video, if you want more info on why clothing/fabric quality is shit now:
I think it's very important to point out that "Fast Fashion" is not another way to say, "low price, low quality clothing". It usually ends up that way, but that is not what the term means.
Fast Fashion is the rapid, consistent cycling of micro trends, which requires an acceleration of the design > manufacturing > sales chain. That's it.
(You can also have year-round garments like plain, white t-shirts that have also tanked in quality over the years -- this is not a Fast Fashion problem, but related to general cost cutting in fabric production.)
Yes, this disproportionately affects low income populations, but you have *got* to understand how this is a business model that goes beyond clothing and crosses income brackets.
I want to point out 2 things that often get left out of this conversation:
1) To dislike fast fashion is not to say "fuck you for wearing the only clothes you can afford". It is to dislike a very modern and unsustainable production model that is the realization of the "endless growth" model of late-stage capitalism.
2) Garment (and other production) workers are consistently left out in the "how dare you piss on the poor" hot takes. We have *got* to encourage liveable wages for everyone.
"The $10 shirt is all some people can afford" and "a new shirt should never be $10" are both unfortunately true.
In a similar vein, I am getting increasingly frustrated at the "it's a privilege to be able to thrift" discourse.
Thrifting as a hobby and thrifting to be able to clothe yourself are two different practices that are increasingly getting conflated. And the existence of the former is being used to discourage the latter.
I will continue to recommend thrifting for both fashion and needs-based clothing, with the suggestion that one check the fabric content label and try to get something with as low a spandex content as possible. (And if you can, learn a couple of other earmarks for longevity or suitability for alterations.) You may not luck out every time, and some days you may not have the time to inspect everything on the rack, but a little knowledge here could score you a garment that you won't have to replace so soon.
Same thing with learning how to care for your clothing. Got things prone to shrinkage because of spandex or it was never pre-shrunk? If you can spare the day, let it air dry vs running through a machine. You can't always avoid shitty garments, but you can try to eke more life out of them, and it helps to know *why* they are shitty to begin with.
And that is really the point of these conversations when you, yourself are part of the worst impacted class of people. A little knowledge that can tip the balance when confronted with what you thought were 2 identical purchases. A little reassurance that, no, you didn't fuck up washing these clothes, they ripped or shrank because the quality is worse than what you grew up with.
I am getting so frustrated with people who are determined to turn conversations about clothing into opportunities to create increasingly minute class distinctions to encourage either fighting or nihilism. It is important to be able to describe what is going on with capitalism without that being perceived as a personal attack. And likewise understand that solutions range from the personal to the systemic, and sometimes the personal is all you can try at the moment.
A few tips for trying to find good quality clothes:
1. Look at what the garment is made of. There are garments that can be made of synthetic fibers and there are others that can't. Sweaters for example, with the exception of chenille, can't be made with synthetic fibers without them pilling and becoming an awful texture after a couple washes.
2. 100% doesn't always mean 100%. It's legal to say that if there's only a tiny bit of another fiber in the fabric, it shouldn't be because it allows companies to lie about their garment but having synthetics.
3. Look at the wash instructions. You should never be able to put a good wool in the washing machine, for example. It has to be hand wash or dry clean only. If it says it's 100% wool and you can put it in the washing machine, they're lying to you about the fiber content.
4. Look at the brand tag. Is it vintage? Is it a brand that's known for being well made? Look it up if you have the time and you're not sure.
5. Check the seams, make sure there aren't any loose threads, make sure the seams are straight, know how to spot good workmanship.
6. Make sure you can tailor the item if needed. Most modern garments are meant to fit a small group of people correctly and you most likely will have to tailor some of your garments to fit. look for where and how the pockets are placed and if it fits in the shoulders.
7. Learn how to do burn tests with garments you take home. Snip off a little bit of excess fabric and light that sucker. It's a great way to figure out if the fabric content is what the trash says it is and how to more accurately care for the garment.
Here's some really good videos by Bernadette Banner that explain how to look for good quality clothes.
Also make friends with your dry cleaners.
Thank you for this!
Laundry labels are very important, and I can understand they can be confusing when they're just the icons (I still have to look some up).
If I (or someone else) have the spoons, there is an entire post to be made about how to care for your garments, *especially* how to eke out as much life as possible out of the low quality stuff.
(In fact, I have to fix some of my lower end shoes, and will make a post with how I do quick sole repair.)
I really debated sticking my oar in on this. I’m in a bit of bind because of my size. Thrifting is truly, in my area, not possible. There is little to no chance to find clothes my size. I’m a 5x I have and am sewing to make my own. Spandex while the bane of existence literally saves my ass (and everyone else from not having to see my exposed ass). I dislike it, always have, but any port in a storm.
The quality of good plus size is …. Well it’s not good. They have a captive audience and they know it. I often find myself reading comments about the quality of clothes and thinking “hasn’t it always been that way?” then I realized. It hit plus size clothes first then moved to mainstream. Paying more for shitty quality has always been my norm.
So has not being able to find things. I made a special club at my University it required wearing a white dress. Thank every god they gave enough notice because it took three fucking months and a special order. I live in the biggest town in my state. It was a plain white dress, not a wedding dress just a simple plain white dress and it took forever. At that time I didn’t sew, but damn if I had found fabric, bought a machine and done it myself it would have been less painful.
Thank you for the oar, @kyotoagnes
A lot of the boutique brands for new clothing of higher quality... they *know* they have a plus-sized market willing to pay, but choose not to engage.
This is a huge problem in the new vintage world, where it feels like a deliberate attempt to discourage plus-sized people from ever being associated with the brand. It is distinctly malicious.
And while this thread was moreso about fabric, you kind of need patterns to even try to make do with what currently is available.
The "fat tax" for asking a pattern be graded to anything above a size L is absurd, not to mention finding someone who will *properly* grade the pattern to begin with.
You can't just resize it in Photoshop and call it a day -- not a lot of people know this and I feel it important to draw attention to. Whenever people tell my (plus-sized) partner they are lucky they can make "whatever they want," my partner just grits their teeth.
The problems of declining quality in the fashion world disproportionately impact plus-sized people and we should be encouraging more sizes as a norm, in both finished clothing and in pattern work for home sewists.
You can make spandex last longer by:
never ever using fabric softener/dryer sheets
washing on cold
not putting them in the dryer
(honestly, ALL OF YOUR CLOTHES will last longer if you do those things. obviously some things should be washed on warm; it does get remove stains better; and I wash towels on hot. obviously there are life situations where you have to put shit in the dryer. but it's just a fact: dryers destroy clothes. all that stuff in the lint trap, other than pet hair!, is your clothes wearing out.)
In my experience, you gotta avoid polyester/cotton blends like the plague. It's ROUGH because that's what 90% of clothes are, but poly/cotton blends get horrible, scratchy pills on them that make them feel terrible to wear.
Wool seriously needs to make a comeback.
I'll never stop talking about how life-changing it was to get rid of all my plastic bullshit and switch (almost) entirely to wool, linen, and cotton. Polyester is impossible to properly thermoregulate in.
Do browsers toss around far more identifying information than they need to yes is that website getting passed around written a bit over-fearmongery also yes imo
The EFF has an equivalent tool if you want to read results that don’t sound like they’re coming from a supervillain
See how trackers view your browser
The world has not been cruel to him yet
by Allison Mei-Li
so he brings leaves to construction workers at the park, holds them out like treasures anyone would be glad to take. The world has not been cruel to him yet, so he lifts his blue-beaded wrist up to everyone we pass, asking, “Do you like my bracelet?” and the only possible answer is: yes. The world has yet to be cruel to him, so he believes there are only two types of people — good and bad — and the bad ones aren’t real. The world has not been cruel to him, so when he can’t sleep, we list out all the people who love him and when we run out of names, he tells me that the trees love him. Saturn loves him. The sky loves him too. And when he falls asleep on my shoulder, I thank the world for staying soft for him. For giving us a little longer. For not being cruel to him just yet.
Hot take: there is no valid reason that official government ID should have either a sec or gender marker on it. First name, last name, dob + up to date image will suffice. Address, if relevant.

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schemers table hits so much harder for me because it says shit like you cannot have a revolution if you expect people who are starving to be your martyrs. the only way to build community is to give people the surety that you will feed them. the only way to break free of a rotting system is to build scaffolding.
People have been warning folks in the US for a long time, that social safety nets were being slowly, and intentionally eroded, and it had been happening for decades. And it had been happening with a purpose. We The People can’t rise up if we’re sick, starving, and struggling to survive. Because then the people are only focused on not drowning. It’s only when they’re feeling that they and their family are secure that they are willing to put their focus towards more. But if the people who CAN are willing to set up safety nets around each other where the government has been taking them away, then the people can be given the chance to find that they really are the ones with the power. They just have to see it, believe it, and then seize it and wield it.
Donate to your local food banks! Educate yourselves. Choosing to “stay out of politics” is choosing to be the person we are talking about when we look back at terrible moments in world history and wonder “why didn’t anyone do anything?” Get out and protest! Call and email your Congressional representatives! Protest economically whenever and however you can! I use GoodsUnited (there’s a free option!) to check companies before I do business with them, from fast food chains to groceries. Some people, like me, are limited on options when it comes to grocery stores. But I changed the brands I buy in the store.
And most importantly…
Register your ass, and VOTE! In EVERY election! No matter how small! It starts at the bottom in your own community with your local school board, alderman, mayor, etc…
Annieo Klass - Daydream no. 5, 2025 - Oil on canvas