Best Of New YorkĀ S/S 18 Runway
We have put together a comprehensive analysis of the best collections showing at New York Fashion Week.
Calvin Klein
Drawing on iconic cultural references, Simons looked to the cinema and Americaās fascination with horror films. Prints were inspired by Andy Warhol's Death and Disaster artworks. "Itās about American horror and American beauty,ā says Raf Simons. The collection embraced semblances of 1950s silhouettes, reworked in industrial materials and drenched in bold colors.
Fenty X Puma
A trio of motocross drivers circling through the air set the pace for the Fenty x Puma collection. Inspired by X Games with a hint of surf, Rihanna sent out a collection of youth-centric pieces, as hardware-strapped anoraks met panelled scuba onesies, while swimwear curved high over the hips, under low-slung cargo pants. Rihanna ramped up her game in bold colour contrasts of navy, pink and lime.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckhamās notes read "soft, strong, honest, easy ā this collection reflects the many powers of femininity." Silhouettes were delicate, confident, and powerful, achieved through her choice of sorbetĀ colors, materials and cut. Pencil skirts were paired with oversized shirts, while the delicate transparency of dresses was emphasized with asymmetrical cuts, skimming over the body with effortless drape.
Marc Jacobs
The Marc JacobsĀ program notes pointed to āa reimagining of the seasons past, somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City.ā Oversized daisy prints and exaggerated color were seen along with show-stopping turbans. Beaded tops, bold psychedelic-print harem pants and a yellow beaded evening gown that closed the show were an exotic finale to an energetic presentation.
Michael Kors
Michael Kors' collection was soft and relaxed in a palette of sun-bleachedĀ colour: tints of wisteria, rosewater, pearl and cornflower blue, which worked beautifully into the subtle prints of palm tree fronds and tie-dye. The items were just as light: an asymmetrically cut silk dress, an oversized jacket with stripe trousers and dresses to catch the faintest breeze on a summer night.
Tom Ford
Tom Fordās dazzling collection saw him revisit his past, with echoes of Gucci and Saint Laurent emerging in flamboyant recreations. Broad-shouldered jackets cut with bespoke precision were drenched in powerful pink. Sex appeal came in low-slung trousers, revealing maillots, sequinned tunics and slithers of body-skimming shirred dresses. Shorts and satin jackets added to the glamorous 1990s appeal.
3.2 Phillip Lim
Phillip Limās spring wardrobe was a study in streamlined asymmetry and downtown playfulness with flamenco iterations. This marriage of opposites saw menswear references reworked into linear silhouettes such as sleeveless trench coats, skirts, and workwear jackets. The color palette of navy, white, red and lime was equally edgy, while ruffles updated classic shirting or appeared in modern layers of skirts.
Sies Marjan
Sander Lak of Sies Marjan showcased his spring line in the brandās atelier, filled Ā floor to ceiling with giant spools of colourful thread. He masterfully paired raspberry with salmon pink, and washed-out lilacs with lime cream or sky blue. Metallics were introduced confidently into a laminated trouser suit or a crinkled pyjama set, while sweet-colored satins made for an array of charming evening dresses.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch presented a 'true summer collection' in every sense; models meandered quietly through manicured gardens at the Smithsonian Design Museum, where the backdrop of intense greenery lent an appealing foil to her colorful line-up. Burch took inspiration from David Hicks, the celebrated British interior designer, infusing his dynamic use of geometric prints and bold color into her easy silhouettes.
Delpozo
Josep Font presented a collection inspired by Slovakian photographer Maria Svarbovaās Swimming Pool series and the bandleader Xavier Cugat. Colour and romance were key to this lovely presentation ā the result had a certain charm, played out in dresses with crafted precision and flamenco touches which in turn bore a striking contrast to the more sculpted pieces.
Designers To Watch
The designers at Solace London played with colour and silhouette, showing a sophistication beyond their years. Matthew Adams Dolanstruck gold with statement shirting. Having previously honed their skills at Helmut Lang, the Colovos sent forth a covetable collection of timeless, contemporary staples. Maryam Nassir Zadeh presented a light and zesty collection of separates, perfect for the youth market.Ā














