JBB: An Artblog!
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@sarahheidebrecht
Triangle Shirtwaist Factory
The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire, which killed 146 workers in a New York City garment factory, occurred on March 25, 1911. Clearly a preventable tragedy, it brought a renewed sense of urgency to the labor movement and to other groups working to improve women’s and immigrants’ rights in the workplace. Many of the current laws today resulted from this catastrophe.
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On the Home Front
Even in the United States a sewing machine can empower and instill confidence. HomeFront, an organization in Lawrence, New Jersey, created a program named ArtSpace where women can learn to heal through therapeutic arts.
“I think any art can help people. Even drawing or sewing. I think anything can help because you just put all of your emotion into it.”
Indigo in Africa
The New York Times recently featured an intimate interview with Aboubakar Fofana, 46, a Malian-born artist and designer. His studio upholds the traditions of ancient indigo fermentation to create varying, deep shades of rich blue. This practice is utilized in other parts of the world, but in Mali, where mainly synthetics are used, this is a unique practice.
How to Rethink Chinese Fashion
A recent article in the New York Times discussed the opening markets for a 'green' revolution in Chinese consumerism. Obstacles to this movement are that consumers lack an understanding of environmental issues. Additionally, there is a necessity to make 'green' designs fashionable, an increase in the number of abandoned garments and materials creating massive excesses of waste, and a cultural distaste for secondhand clothes. Redress is hosting a sustainable fashion competition to address some of the challenges mentioned above. Deadline is August 15th and open to 10 regions in Asia and Europe, including mainland China, Taiwan, Malaysia, Sweden and Denmark.
Hygienic concerns and a cultural taboo that associates secondhand clothes with death stigmatize the idea of recycling. “A common mind-set is: ‘I don’t want clothes that have been on strangers,’” Mr. Wang added.
Donating Used Clothes
A recent article surprisingly on Yahoo! Style shed a bit of light on the worldwide network of used clothing distribution. The article specifically focused on Africa and the impact that this funneling of used products has had on the stability and creation of an apparel and textile industry on the continent. However, exporting used clothing happens throughout the world, not just in Africa. Countries such as Brazil have severe restrictions on importing used products. This is to protect its domestic shoe and clothing industries. A list of current foreign restrictions and requirements can be found at OTEXA.
It’s neocolonialism in its purest form,” noted the late Neil Kearney, general secretary for the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation. “It’s exporting poverty to Africa, a continent that is already exceedingly poor.
While donating clothing to secondhand stores or other noteworthy organizations is a step in the right direction, we should continue to investigate and be curious about where this clothing goes. Other questions of note: If we consumed less clothing or bought more used clothing when we needed it, would this allow for less to be given away? What is the fuel cost of having our clothing made overseas and for its second life the clothing is shipped again back overseas?
Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Heidebrecht, Burma, 2008
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Lean In: Women, Work, and the Will to Lead by Sheryl Sandberg is definitely worth a read and continued thought on the ways our society genderizes words, roles, and the place of both men and women at home and at work. In a nutshell this book seemingly is a modern version of the Feminine Mystique that leaves me questioning the meaning of equality and ambition.
One of the things I tell people these days is that there is no perfect fit when you're looking for the next big thing to do. You have to take opportunities and make an opportunity fit for you, rather than the other way around. The ability to learn is the most important quality a leader can have. -Padmasree Warrior, Cisco's Chief Technology Officer
"The coordination problem...[is] ultimately sustaining a business model of consistently outpacing the earth’s regenerative capacity and supporting undignified treatment of fellow human beings."
New research by Denmark's Mistra Future Fashion and SocioLog.dx focuses on practical efforts for change that will influence the institutional environment for sustainable fashion. Changing markets and business models: Towards sustainable innovation in the fashion industry
By dedicating a space to my work, I create clear boundaries between work and home life. When I am in my office, I do not think about home. When I am in my home, I do not think about my office.
A little insight for the Monday work week. See what Fast Company has to say about the challenges of working from home through the insights of five professionals who are making it happen.
East Africa Arrives
Anthropologoie recently launched a new collection, Legend and Song. It brings together with the help of USAID several of the top designers in the East African region. Not only does it capture some exquisite pieces, it takes the best of the best in beautiful design and redefines notions of artisan versus designer products in Africa.
The campaign helps change perceptions about Africa by allowing international buyers to see just how integral design and creativity are to Africa’s future.
Read more about this joint project at USAID's blog.
Photo: Courtesy of USAID.
Just because a person spends her time making a piece of something does not mean that she becomes that, a piece of something.
Leslie T. Chang | TED Talks
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After My Garden Grows
People never think they should raise their daughter, help her stand on her own two feet. They say, 'get her married, then the problem will end.'
This short film was created by Academy Award-winning documentary filmmaker Megan Mylan, for the Short Film Challenge, a collaboration between Sundance and the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation which invites filmmakers to create short videos that shed light on extreme hunger and poverty.
Ethiopian Designs Going Global
A recent article from BBC News discussed the upswing of Ethiopian designs and challenges that this sector in Ethiopia faces in forming thriving fashion businesses.
[F]ashion design is proving to be one of the most successful Ethiopian sectors for small business and entrepreneurs, generating profit margins ranging from 50% to more than 100%.
Something to celebrate.
Photo courtesy of BBC News.
Stitching in America (Focus 5)
Tubbs Snowshoeswas originally founded in 1906 by Walter Tubbs in Norway, Maine. The company's production was boosted by an order in 1915 to outfit 50,000 pairs of snowshoes for British troops in WWI. Additionally, the Tubbs brand was considered so finely crafted that snowshoes were made in 1928 for the first successful expedition since 1840 to Antarctica by Admiral Byrd and Norman Vaughan.
The Tubbs Snowshoe was originally crafted from carefully selected white ash and high quality cowhide. After its founding, the company was sold and moved to Vermont where domestic production continued in Stowe. Many people in Vermont still hold an affinity for Tubbs Snowshoes. But upon further research, I found that recently in 2005 Tubbs was bought out by K2, Inc., and is no longer entirely American-made. K2, Inc., planned to send production overseas. It's headquarters also moved to Washington state and the Stowe, Vermont, manufacturing facility was closed.
The outcome of Tubbs Snowshoes is the tale of many original companies from the United States. Small business bought out be large managing businesses. Most have not held true to their place of origination for various reasons. I can only hope that as domestic production again becomes a more viable option to manufacturers that Tubbs Snowshoes will move their production back home. In a sense this is what many of us are striving to do in many aspects of our life-whether with food, local business and less in-between transactions from product to hand.
NY NOW Gift Show
It was an eventful week in New York with the Super Bowl taking place across in New Jersey, snow storms abounding and the biannual gift show which brings vendors and customers from all over the world. I had the pleasure of representing Creative Women and mostly Ethiopian, handwoven home textiles at the show. The mixture of global and domestic artisan products were certainly eye-catching in the Handmade Global Design Division. Mush conversation ensued about grouping the artisan and fair trade booths in one section of the Javits Center. Was this good for foot traffic, did it make sense with the flow of the show? These questions are yet to be answered, but I think it left me with a more profound thought that buyers are now more educated about transparency in their supply chain depending on their company's or store's mission and their own social responsibility stance. This seems incredibly mainstream to me or perhaps I've been so engulfed in it these past few years that I'm not part of the mainstream anymore.
So would it not make more sense to place Creative Women within the home textile and/or bath division? Forget the fair trade or artisan agenda, why not show beautiful, exceptionally made products alongside similar booths and let the buyer decide which is best?
The long standing question still remains: What is fair trade? Can it be defined and guaranteed solely by the maker's assurance and to what degree is it fair?
DEN Introduction to Entrepreneurship
I am super excited to be embarking on a course with DEN and the Tuck School of Business, Introduction to Entrepreneurship, this semester. DEN was founded in late 2000 to foster a spirit of innovation by helping people in the Dartmouth community learn about and implement entrepreneurship.
Now I can continue to learn how to siphon off the stellar ideas and proceed with perhaps one of them...
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Tribute to Dorothea Lange & American Women
These are women of the American soil. They are a hardy stock. They are of the roots of our country. They inhabit our plains, our prairies, our deserts, our mountains, our valley, and our country towns. They are not our well-advertised women of beauty and fashion, nor are they a part of the well-advertised American style of living. These women represent a different mode of life. They are of themselves a very great American style. They live with courage and purpose, a part of our tradition. -Dorothea Lange (1895-1965)
