Travels with Mandy

Starting at Tower Hill station head down towards the Tower of London to the edge of the Thames. This is the start of a pleasant two mile walk on the flat.

Here you can pick up the waterside path heading West. The route gives some great views of the Thames as it hugs the waterside along with glimpses of London past. Before you head West take a moment to look East and enjoy Tower Bridge.

Then head West towards the Shard. Of course it’s on the other side of the river but it’s one of those buildings that if you are really close you can’t actually see it all.

On the North side of the river opposite the Shard are some of London’s oldest markets with Billingsgate Fish Market marked by its fish weather vane. It’s a lovely building and for once the scale of the glass modernist cube next to it actually works.

Then it’s on to Three Cranes Wharf or Walbrook Wharf. This is where in Roman Times the river Walbrook, one of London’s lost rivers, entered the Thames.

Most of the wharves on this part of The Thames ceases working years ago. But Three Cranes still works transferring London’s refuse in containers onto barges to sail downstream to feed the waste to energy plant.

This saves hundreds of lorry journeys a day. However for the walker it means there is a stretch of the path which has gates and a siren like a level crossing. The 20m stretch has to be nipped across if the siren goes. This makes sure no pedestrians are in the area as the cranes glide on their rails and swing the containers over onto the waiting barge.

Then it’s onwards to Southwark Bridge and then to Queenshythe. There isn’t a lot to see at Queenshythe now but it is one of the oldest docks on the river with evidence of use dating back to Saxon times.

After detouring inland round Queenshythe we reach the newest of the Thames bridges, the Millenium footbridge linking St Paul’s to the Tate Modern.

Passing onwards to where the Blackfriars roadbridge and rail bridge cross and the pillars of the earlier bridge still stand proud.

Then the path briefly detours from the waterside as we head along the embankment past the green and secluded gardens of the Middle and Inner Temple, home to some of the highest paid lawyers in the land. We then reach the Embankment gardens which make a pleasant walk to Temple station.

The South West of Zakynthos is a beautiful part of the island much favoured by better off British and Germans. Far from the madding crowds in atmosphere even if it is only 20km from Zakynthos Town and about 15km from Laganas.

Keri Beach is the very far end of the bay which stretches from Vasilikos and Garakas in the South East to the Keri lighthouse. The whole bay is a protected marine area to try to support the endangered turtles which use its beaches as nest sites and includes a small island.

Technically speedboats, jet skis and larger boats should not enter this area. In reality it’s is poorly policed so if you do visit and hire a boat make sure you know the park boundary and if you go turtle spotting go with yours organised by responsible operators such as the Earth, sea and sky turtle conservation group.

Keri Beach itself is a marina with a small but pretty stretch of beach with tamarisk trees for shade.

There are some lovely tavernas and cafes fronting the little harbour with first storey decks allowing you to take in the views.

Backing the beach is the Keri wetland one of the last stretches of wetland on the island. Zakynthos is pretty green and gets plenty of rain in winter.

There are small patches of wetland on the south east Vasilikos peninsula but this area is substantial and stretches right back from the beach to the mountains.

The idea of staying in Vasilikos on Zakynthos was to avoid hiring a car yet here I was signing the agreement on a small red Kia Picanto.

The only flaw in the plan of two weeks sunning, swimming and walking had been the idea that I could probably get a bus if I wanted to go into Zakynthos town or elsewhere on the island.

Outside the hotel there was a bus stop. It said that even in low season (before 12 June) there should be 3 buses a day to Zakynthos but ominously someone had put a large cross through the 17.40.

I asked at the hotel. They were very dubious. This time of year they agreed would not be a good time to rely on the pbus. All over the peninsula I saw bus stops and groups of forlorn English and Germans yet despite regularly walking the roads I never once saw a bus.

So that is why despite trying to de-stress I found myself hiring the car. I’ve driven on a few Greek islands (Corfu, Santorini and Crete) so I’m cool to battered cars, variable roads, lying maps and not being able to read the signs in rural areas. But my guidebook had just warned me that roads on Zante were awful.

The main reason for the car was to take a trip to Zakynthos Town. I wanted to see how the town had rebuilt after the earthquake of 1953 which flattened all but 4 buildings, to visit the Byzantine Museum to see the frescos and icons and to use a bank cash point.

The drive to Zakynthos from Vasilikos was fine on a well surfaced and marked road which in May was quiet. The only tricky spot was Argassi navigating the narrow roads of the resort with lots of tour buses dropping tourists off and crowds of tipsy Brits stepping out without looking.

Zakynthos Town was fine. Headed along the main harbour road and paid for the shade covered car park just off the road. Yes, it was expensive but no hassle.

Then strolled along the harbour watching the local fishing boats selling their catch.

I reached the main square and as it had come out hot at 28C sat in the shade with a coffee overlooking the main square.

This is a great spot for people watching although in the hot midday sun it all felt very quiet.

Refreshed I visited the Byzantine Museum housed in the lovely colonnaded Venetian style building. Only the two downstairs rooms were open but the two complete panels like English rood screens but with much more gold paint and iconography which had been salvaged from churches flattened in the earthquake were worth the visit.

Then I wandered the main shopping streets running parallel to the harbour.

Vasilikos - top place to stay

Choosing where to stay in Vasilkos. During our stay in Vasilkos we saw a number of other hotels where we ate lunch or used their bar facility.

In terms of location, cleanliness, quality of food and friendliness the Hotel Vasilikos Beach where we stayed turned out to be an outstanding place to stay.

The location is great if you want easy access to beaches with St Nicholas, Plaka, Banana and Ion all within an easy walk. It’s also a good site for easy access to the Vasilikos peninsula.

We took lots of lovely walks through the rural countryside on quiet lanes. For driving & exploring the island the peninsula and mountains mean you need to go up to Zakynthos town about 15km to get to roads to other parts but it is a pleasant drive.

The hotel has three apartment blocks, one faces the pool, one looks put over the gardens towards Plaka Beach and the other out over trees and garden towards St Nicholas beach.

The staff at the hotel were all really friendly and willing to help if you needed anything from extra pillows & blankets (chilly evening in mid May) and advice on places to walk to.

We stayed in the newly modernised apartments next to the pool but with balconies looking out to St Nicholas Beach.

The rooms (we had a superior one) were really spacious and open plan with lovely showers.

When we stayed at the start of the season the hotel was generally quiet in the evening so bar entertainment was sporadic.

However as these rooms are above the bar and restaurant area if you want it quieter at night you might want to stay in one of the other blocks of apartments.

The pool is a good size with some depth and allows a reasonable swim. It was refreshing in May. Next to the pool is a large terrace with sunbeds, loungers and tables.

There is a further terrace with lots of tables and seating shaded by pine trees.

Bar service is available for both the pool and terrace. There are lovely comfy chairs by the bar as well as bar stools.

We visited the hotel through a tour operator package but several low cost airlines fly to Zakynthos and car hire is available.

St Nicholas Beach to Porta Roma- 5km

This is the second of a series if walks on the Vasilikos peninsula on Zakynthos. They are gentle ambles on quiet lanes with spots to have a coffee or lunch. Walking in Vasilikos (part 1) covers St Nicholas to Gerakas.

The walk from St Nicholas Beach to Porta Roma follows the same route initially as the walk to Gerakas. Following the lane through olive groves full of flowers, goats, chickens and horses up to the main road and then south uphill along the road passing the bakery and tavernas.

Then you pass the enormous olive tree reputed to be over 800 years old at the taverna and olive oil shop.

Reaching the fork in the road take the right hand turn and head slowly downhill on a gently curving road with lovely view across the countryside.

A slightly abandoned feel takes over on this walk as evidence of either the Greek economic crisis of 2012 or the general austerity in the Europe causing a fall innUZk and German visitors. You pass a number of former tavernas and partially built apartments.

Reaching Porta Roma you come to a Taverna perched on the cliff with great views back across the bay to St Nicholas beach. A good place to stop for a pleasant lunch.

Then you can walk along the coastal road toward Gerakas with views of some luxury apartments both completed and half done.

You then come to a great view point where you can see the Gerakas headland.

However this is where frustration also sets in. Both my map book and Google show a road looping round into Gerakas but a set of luxury developments with private notices seem to have been built across the road preventing a pleasant circular loop to Gerakas and up. Instead you have to retrace your route.

But it’s a pleasant climb back up through the fields passing some lovely goats.

Zakynthos is trying to move away from its party island image and draw in different visitors by promoting its walking.

I stayed on the Vasilikos peninsula at the Vasilikos Beach Hotel in the South East and set out to explore what it has to offer the casual walker.

I undertook a series of short gentle walks varying from 4-7 km to allow me to explore the peninsula. Most of the walks use quiet side roads and although the island is trying to link up its network of walks there are still a frustrating number of lanes and tracks which end abruptly because someone has built across the land and gated it off. St Nicholas Beach is at the end of a lane so all my walks involved walking up the lane to the main road through a olive groves full of flowers.

St Nicholas Beach to Gerakas - 7km

Walk to the main road and then turn left and head uphill walking through olive fields past the primary school. The bakery on the right hand side makes a lovely first stop with great coffee and fresh pastries.

Then continue along the road past a number of tavernas until reaching the fork in the road. Left takes you to Porta Roma and right to Gerakas. Heading for Gerakas you walk downhill through lovely meadows with great views of the hills on the right.

Gerakas is home to the Sea Turtle Rescue Centre and the set of cool cafes next to it produce profits to help the centres work.

Across the car park is the access to the beach. Numbers visiting are strictly limited to try to reduce disturbance to the turtles. Head for the beach path but instead turn right along the cliff.

You are submerged into a forest of broom and wild flowers only to emerge next to some amazing limestone geology that looks like an alien planet.

Then head up hill. A long climb will take you up the hill to a t- junction in the paths. The left hand turn goes to the viewpoint but turn right and head towards the pine forest.

The pines make a welcome break from the sun and you pass a ruined house and chapel. Continue on until a significant path to the right appears which leads to the Galilkis Taverna and then follow this.

The taverna although a specialist in fish provided a sumptuous lunch for this vegetarian of courgette balls, bread, cheese pies.

From the terrace of the taverna there are lovely views across the hills to the sea and closer to hand giant rabbits graze the lawn.

Zakynthos or Zante has a reputation issue. Written off by many as an island for partying under 30s there is another side to this island which is well worth exploring.

Vasilikos in the far South East of the island is a quiet picturesque peninsula.

Visiting in late Spring while the island is still green, full of flowers and wildlife allows you to see the rural life of the island and enjoy quiet coves and sandy beaches.

I stayed at the Vasilikos Beach Hotel close to St Nicholas Beach. This hotel situated amongst pine trees makes a good base for exploring the peninsula.

St Nicholas Beach is two sandy beaches separated by a little rocky outcrop. The right hand beach is more sheltered with the Koukis apartments and Taverna above.

The more open left hand beach has the headland with the church and the water sports backed by a couple of beach bars. Laid back in late May they look like they could be lively in mid summer.

For something quieter the other side of the hotel is Plaka Beach a lovely little cove with laid back music and taverna providing food.

There are plenty of beaches to explore by walking North up the wide expanse of beach. The two Banana Beach sites both are backed by extensive beach bars serving food and drinks.

Continue Northwards to Ion for a beautiful beach taverna with great food and laid back music.

The first time I saw Dubrovnik I fell in love with the city. That was back in Oct 1996 just a year after the end of the Croation/Serbian war.

A UNESCO heritage site she may have been but back then she was bruised and battered with shell holes visible and major buildings still burnt out. The cable car carriage lay forlorn and abandoned and Mount Srd was out of bounds. Few hotels were running and yet more were destroyed or full of refugees. But the people were welcoming and the city was beautiful.

Returning 21 years to the week, the city and region have mainly recovered although I suspect the scars run deep. The Cyrilic still visible on that first visit has vanished along with the larger shell holes in the paving and the burnt out buildings in the walled city. However the ruins are still here in the form of abandoned hotels and houses. How long to stay Dubrovnik rewards those who stay longer as you get a sense of the rythym of the city. So while a cruise will do a day stop I'd recommend a 4 day break or a week. It's worth buying the 1,3 or 7 day Dubrovnik cards for free entry to city walls and museums plus discount on the Lokrum ferry but  be aware the cable car isn't included. What to do The City Walls and Fort Lorinje

The city walls encircle the whole city and are nearly 2km long. There are a few cafes but mostly you are in the sun, lovely in spring or Autumn but scorching in summer so take a hat and a drink. On the shoulders the walls are busy but fine at most times but in summer they can be packed. They are open 8am to 6pm and can be rushed round in 2 hours or taken at a leisurely pace for half a day. There are a lot of steps. Cost at time of writing 150 kuna. 

Explore the walled city Dubrovnik packs in a huge amount in a tiny space. A whole host of museums - maritime, ethnographic, natural history, pharmacy, monastery and cultural attractions - the Rector's palace and Martin Dravic’s house are all within the walls whilst just outside is the Museum of Modern Art housed in its own former palace. 

The Stradun or Placa is the main street framed at one end by the Pile gate and the bell tower at the other. An expanse of limestone polished by centuries of wear lined by beautiful 4 storey limestone buildings. The street is lined with shops and cafes and the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by. One of the most impressive parts of the city is its uniformity of architecture and materials. Mainly due to most of it dating from a rebuild after the 1667 earthquake. There is beautiful harbour where boats for a variety of destinations leave from.

The city has a good number of religious buildings from monasteries to mosques. The main Roman Catholic cathedral is supplemented by the Church of St Blaise the city's patron saint , the Serbian Orthodox Church & the baroque Jesuit Church.

Best of all though are the maze of small streets and steps which run to the North and South of the Stradun. Filled with small shops, cafes and homes they give you a real sense of the density of the city. 

The Cable Car and Mount Srd

For fantastic views of the city, peninsular and islands a ride on the cable car to the top of Mount Srd is a must. 

The three minute ride runs from 9am to 8pm (9pm in summer). At the summit you can visit the Fort and Homeland War Museum and dine at the Panorama cafe with spectacular views. The cafe gets very busy at lunchtime and evenings so book ahead to reserve a table or be prepared for a wait. 

Lokrum A quick 20 min boat ride from Dubrovnik is the small island of Lokrum, just 1 mile long and a nature reserve. It makes a lovely day long visit and can be a pleasant change from the limestone paved streets and bustle of the city. 

Take flat shoes, as some paths are rough, and if sensitive to mosquitos wear repellent. There are bathing areas in the south of the island but fewer easy points to access the water on the north. There are a few nice cafes and bars near the landing stage, monastery and the pool known as the Dead Sea. 

Cavtat The hour long boat trip to Cavtat is a great way to see more of the Croatian coastline and islands and visit the lovely town of Cavtat. Boats leave hourly and the return trip costs 120 kuna.

Cavtat is a small town clustered around a lovely wooded bay. Crystal clear waters teaming with fish greet you at the harbour along with cafes and restaurants. 

A great walk out onto the peninsular provides a gentle stroll in woodland and some perfect swim and picnic coves. Follow the road round to find a second harbour and marina. 

The Elaphite Islands The three Elaphite Islands Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan lie just to the north of Dubrovnik. Tour operators run boat trips from Dubrovnik old city harbour and from Gruz harbour (near Babin Kuk & Lapad) which will visit all three islands for around 250/300 kuna. But you can also get  the locals ferry from Gruz which stops at each of the islands and means you could spend a whole day on one island for a fraction of the price. We did this back in 1996 and it means for a good part of the day it's just you, a few people staying on the island and the locals. Further afield Other day trips available include going to Mostar and the waterfalls in Bosnia Herzogovena, travelling down into Montenegro to see Kotor or taking a fast ferry to the large nature reserve island of Miljet but be aware this last option doesn't run in the shoulder months. We’ve yet to get to Miljet but I’m assured its lovely by a friend who visited in the summer. Where to stay The old walled city is the focus of most tourists however there are few hotels close to or in the city and these are premium priced. The Pucic Palace is 5 star boutique hotel with just 14 rooms in the heart of the city or the Hilton Imperial is just 5 minutes from the Pile Gate. 

Suffolk wasn’t top on my list of places to visit. I generally prefer the West side of  Britain with its moors, dales, mountains and wilder coastline but when my mother-in-law moved to Suffolk I started to get to know the place better. The county is quite flat with its fair share of marshes but it has charm and it definitely grows on you.

In winter with snow on the ground it is the land of the Saxon dark ages. In spring it bursts into life with a real bounty of wildflowers. In summer heat it’s the lazy tranquility of the marshes and come autumn the heaths burst into colour.

This is a tour of some of my favourite places in the county.

Woodbridge

Sitting on the River Deben, Woodbridge is a lovely small town. Down by the riverside there is the tide mill and the clink of the sailing boats and the Adnams shop, full of beers, wines and culinary staples. Walk into town and you have ancient buildings and a range of lovely, small independent shops. A favourite cafe is The Firestation.

Thorpeness

Thorpeness is home to the famous House in the Clouds which often lives up to its name. A converted water tower the stunning house is seven storeys high and at many times of the year indeed sits in the clouds. The beach at Thorpeness is shingle as is most of the Suffolk coast but the real gem of this town is its Victorian boating lake. It’s sizable but only three metres deep. 

Brightly coloured rowing boats can be hired by the hour and a range of swans, ducks and other waterfowl crowd the edge of the lake waiting to be fed. A popular cafe opens all year round so the lake is a lovely even in the freezing depths of winter when you can enjoy soup or hot chocolate and watch the birds from the warmth.

Southwold

Towards the top of the Suffolk coast is Southwold. Famed for the amber which can be found on the beach, this town is quirky. 

It has a great pier and as you walk up the cliff toward the heart of the town you spot one of the most incongruous lighthouses which seems to just pop up from behind some old Geogian houses. Southwold has some nice shops and a specialist Amber jewellers.

Framlingham

Inland Suffolk has some small rolling hills and Famlingham sits amongst them. 

This small town sports a lovely town square and some great medieival buildings. It has some very nice warm pubs and great cafes. The “must see” here is Framlingham Castle run by Heritage England.

Ixworth

Ixworth is a lovely village in mid Suffolk just off the road to Bury. Bypassed by the main road it doesn’t get large numbers of visitors. But they are missing a treat. It features a fine High street full of character buildings dating form different periods but all well maintained. 

It has several nice cafes and restaurants. Just round the corner is the lovely Pakenham Watermill.

Bury St Edmunds

The historic capital of Suffolk Bury St Edmunds is famed for its Cathedral, ruined priory and historic playhouse. It also has some lovely gardens and a range of good quality shops.

Lavenham

In the South West corner of the county lovely Lavenham sports the largest number of listed buildings of any town in England. 

A booming wool town in the 15th century its fortunes declined rapidly and it disappeared into obscurity avoiding the development of later centuries. It features complete streets of timber, hanging buildings and gives you a real sense of what a city like London would have looked like before the Great Fire.

Eye

Tiny Eye is a large village at the North West of the county. It features some lovely timbered buildings as well as some fine Georgian and Victorian homes.

 It has the ruins of a twelfth century castle and one of the most lovely churches in the county featuring a fine decorated Rood screen. 

Near to the church is a fine delicatessen which is the ideal spot to stock up on wines, cheeses and other artisan foodstuffs. The piece de resistance of this village is the lovely chocolate shop and cafe at its heart. The Bicerin (coffee and hot chocolate) is to die for.

Dunwich Heath

Further up the coast is the wild heathland of Dunwich. Owned and preserved by the National Trust (NT) this land supports a fragile ecosystem of marsh and heathland running along the coast. A lovely tea room run by the NT sits on a rare bluff overlooking the coast and with incongruous views of the huge box like nuclear power station at Sizewell in the distance.

Snape Maltings

Nestling in amongst the reed beds slighly inland from the coast is Snape Maltings. A complex of delightful brick buildings once a malt factory and now converted into an improbable concert venue, shops, cafes and holiday accommodation. 

The reedbeds alongside the River Alde make it a very quiet but popular spot. You can walk by the river or hire a boat.

Crete is famously the birthplace of the Minoan civilisation. It is quite amazing to realise that the first Cretan palaces were being built nearly 4,000 years ago. Long before the Mycenaeans, the Greeks and the Romans only the Egyptians had a civilisation predating this culture. There are a whole range of sites on Crete that are worth visiting but given the size of the island its not that easy unless you have a lot of time to visit them all.

We were staying in Hersonnisos in central Northern Crete so the obvious choices to visit were Malia and Knossos. This proved to be a good choice because they allow you to compare and contrast to very different sites.

We visited Malia first. The Malia palace site is just a few minutes form the main road from Malia towards Agios Nikolas. When we visited in the middle of the day in October the large car park had plenty of spaces. 

The site cost €6 to enter and had a nice little cafe serving freshly squeezed juice, good coffee, sandwiches and orange cake as well as chilled can of soft drinks. It has good clean toilets.

The first thing you notice is the scale of the site. Its enormous and has only been partly excavated. At one time the city here would have extended right down to the sea and housed thousands. There is evidence of a palace from the earliest palace building phase although most of this was obliterated by the New Palace built around 1700BC. The site has workshops, administrative buildings, palace rooms, guest lodgings and a large central square. Beyond this were the streets and houses of the rest of the city.

Throughout the site are good quality interpretation boards in both greek and english.

Three of the excavated sections have been covered by arched roofs which protect the stonework from the elements and provide welcome shade for visitors. The joy of this site was that there were very few people and only one tour group. This allowed you to spend time viewing the different areas. 

You can see the different types of pillars both square and round. The stonework is especially fine with a range of different types of stone being used and finely cut. you can also see the paving of the rooms and streets as well as staircases. However nothing at Malia is higher than a few feet above ground level so you are looking at the foundations of the city. Only in one area do you look down into the underfloor level.

However a series of rooms next to the site house a couple of really good scale models of the site and of what the palace looked like giving you a real sense of the place.

Minoan culture is fascinating. The first series of palaces were built around 1900BC. These were then replaced by a second bout of palace building around 1700BC but within a hundred years or so the palaces are all abandoned with the exception of Knossos. originally this was interpreted as being a result of the enormous explosion of he volcano on Santorini however more recent dating shows that the collapse of the Minoan civilisation pre dated this so the most likely cause is now suggested as civil war as most of the palace sites show signs of being burned.

Knossos, just 5 km outside Heraklion, is everything Malia isn’t. It is very crowded. Even on an October morning we still had to queue to get in and at €15 the price is steep. Then there are the tour parties. Everywhere you go there is a party of tourists being guided in English, German, Russian, French and a host of other languages which means the site which is quite constrained on the hilltop becomes very crowded. Opening hours also appear variable my guide books confidently told me in October the site shuts at 3pm yet it was open until 6.30pm.

Where Malia sits on a flat plain by the sea Knossos climbs a hill with the excavated palace at the top of the hill. The rest of the city falling away from the palace lies unexcavated under the village of Knossos and its surrounding fields.

Unlike Malia, Knossos when it was excavated started to deteriorate rapidly and the decision was made to remove the frescoes and finds to the museum in Heraklion. What remained was then reconstructed in part by Evans. 

While the reconstruction does give you some sense of the palace because of the date it was done it is unclear how accurate it is. Another slightly irritating feature of the Knossos site is all the interpretation refers to what Evans thought ion the 1920s at the time of reconstruction rather than what modern archaeologists think today.

Despite the crowds it is still an interesting site. The reconstructions do give a sense of the buildings and the copies of the frescoes allow you to get a feel for how richly decorated the palaces were.

The Lasith Plateau lies high above the coastal town of Malia in Central Crete, hidden in the mountains. It can only be accessed by one of two passes either from Malia or Neapolis. Prior to World War 2 there was no road access to the plateau just mule tracks and even now the roads are small and wind up hairpin bends to access the passes. We took the Malia road rising up to the pass at Ambelos. On the way you get amazing views of the Limnikaro plateau below with its reservoir.

The first view of the pass is spectacular with its set of 34 ruined windmills sitting sentinel on the ridge facing into the prevailing wind. 

At the windmills you can stop and walk around. One of the windmills which used to grind the wheat from the Lasithi Plateau has been restored so you can see what it would have been like. The windmills are an odd design with an oblong stone building. The Cretan sails are attached to one end of the oblong with all the grinding machinery fitted into that circle end. The rest of the building is a small room with a small hearth for the miller.

Descending into the Lasith Plateau you can see a few of the famous windmills which once covered the whole plateau in their hundreds as this photo from the sixties shows. They were used to pump the water up for irrigation. The plateau is an incredibly fertile plain which receives plenty of water in the winter and alluvial soil washed from the mountains. This is one place on the island where you can grow apple and cherry trees as well as a whole range of vegetables and wheat. Nowadays diesel pumps have replaced the windmills and their skeleton bodies litter the landscape. Only a few are left with sails spinning for the tourists.

The circular drive round the plateau is a pleasant drive amongst fields and through some of the small villages. Unfortunately this area has depopulated with easier money to made form tourism on the coast than agriculture. The villages are a mix of houses falling to pieces and new or restored buildings. But there appears to be a resurgence of tourism on the plateau with an eco village and a newly marked set of hiking trails. Shops in the villages specialise in honey, olive oil and embroidered tablecloths. Here you get a glimpse of a different Crete with elderly people dressed in traditional clothes.

About two thirds round the circuit if you go clockwise is the turning to the Diktean Cave, the claimed birthplace of Zeus. We decided not to visit the cavern as the guidebook mentioned a 15 min hike or donkey rides to the caves. I was happy to walk but could not bear the sight of donkeys carting overweight tourists.  Please if you visit don’t ride a donkey they are not strong enough to carry people and it is very bad for their welfare.

The plateau is amazingly quiet so it is well worth getting out and having a walk. It is one of the few places on Crete where apples and cherries can be grown as well as providing vegetables and wheat.

We returned via the Ambelos pass and stopped at the lovely taverna which has outstanding views and offers good Cretan food at reasonable prices. In fact the food was so good that a whole Cretan christening party of over 200 guests arrived, plus five tours coaches but despite all the people it was still a lovely calm place to while away a Sunday afternoon.

A hallmark of the flat landscapes of East Anglia are the windmills.

Billingford Mill, Norfolk

Before the industrial revolution wind and water were the key power generators of medieval England. Living in the Westcountry hills are plentiful and water wheels powered everything from mines to mills. Windmills are few and far between here but in the flatter of lands of the South East the windmill was king.

I grew up in Sussex with a preserved windmill only about a mile from where I lived. An engineer father meant we visited many sites. So I have an enduring fascination with windmills, watermills and tidemills.

Trips to see my mother in law in East Anglia provide plenty of opportunities to visit the windmills of Suffolk and Norfolk.

Billington Mill, Norfolk - restored but without its sails

Windmills were used to power pumps to drain marshes, grind corn and provide power all sorts of mills.

Horsey wind pump, Norfolk - restored and run by the National trust

The earliest windmills in England were the Post Mills. These allowed the whole mill to turn to face the wind which was essential with the variable winds we experience. Generally these were made of wood to be light enough to turn.

Salted Green Post Mill, Suffolk

By the end of the 13th century the Tower Mill had been developed where only the cap sitting on the top of the stone or brick tower turned to face the wind. This allowed the mills to be taller with larger sails and therefore more productive in lighter winds.

Buttrum’s Mill, Woodbridge, Suffolk

Bardwell windmill, Suffolk

The Smock Mill was a later development of the Tower Mill having a solid tower body, topped with an octagonal wooden framework called a smock. Smock mills were frequently used for drainage pumps where the lack of solid ground made a full Tower Mill not possible.

One great plus point of staying in Nice on the Cote D’Azure is the access to the mainline railway running east/ west along the coast. This gives easy access to a range of other resorts for day trips.

To the West you can enjoy the glamour of Cannes and St Tropez. The majority of day trippers heading East go to Monaco to experience the tiny principality, view the luxury lifestyle amongst the rich and famous and go shopping. However stay on the train to Menton and you are in for a treat.

The journey takes about 30 min from Nice and costs about 20 euros return.

Menton doesn’t feel French. From the moment you arrive you are convinced you are in Italy. Everything tells you so - the architecture, the shops and the people. You can hear people speaking Italian and it’s not surprising as you are only a few miles from the border and for most of its history it fell under the Genoese.

The station lies at the back of the town so heading towards the sea you soon come across the main shopping streets. I stopped at lovely cafe sitting on the curve of the main street serving coffee and pastries.

Having refuelled I then could enjoy the shopping delights which opened up before me. The grand hotel on the right showed the heyday of Menton was similar period to Nice. 

I entered the full pedestrian shopping streets of Menton which run parallel to the seafront.

The main street is broad but there are lots of tiny narrow side streets full of shops as well. Menton is a treat for the senses. There are loads of perfumeries, soap makers and shops specialising in the lemon products for which the town is famous. 

There are artisan honey and jam makers and craft shops. There are many clothes shops selling dresses made of the beautiful Italian linens combined with lace. Cafe’s throng the small squares or piazzas. The streets bustle with shoppers but don’t feel over crowded.

A turn into a small side street brings me to an amazing historic building which has been saved by the municipal council and is now trying to find a new life. The downstairs rooms of the palazzo can be viewed with their huge high ceilings and windows. The upstairs area awaits restoration to perilous to allow access. The building is serene and would have been a wonderful home.

At the end of the shopping streets you come out at the curve of the seafront. Menton like NIce has a white pebble beach but the locals have created a sand beach by importing tons of golden sand to create a plage where small children play.

There is a nice historic harbour building and a modern musuem devoted to Menton’s most famous son the artist Jean Cocteau.

I now walk back along the promenade admiring the lovely art deco seafront hotels many of which have been converted to apartments but some still serving visitors. 

There are many cafes with comfy seating on the seaward side of the promenade and it was lovely to sit and enjoy a glass of wine whilst watching the sunseekers on the beach in the late afternoon sunshine.

Rome is one of my favourite cities. I’ve always wanted to be Anita Ekberg frollicking in the Trevi fountain.

I first visited the city when I was 19. My memories of that visit are fuzzy; an empty Trevi fountain, Spanish steps, the Bourghese gardens, the Coloseum, a huge park created by Mussolini and a camp site. And it was hot being the start of September.

But  they say if you drop a coin in the Trevi you will return to the city. And I recently returned with my lovely husband of 21 years to rediscover the city again. This time we visited in November and were blessed with warm sunny days although the evenings were quite cold. The great weather meant we walked miles across the city and didn’t visit the museums we had pencilled in for the expected rain.

These are my favourite spots in the city

Villa Borghese and the Borghese Gardens

Rome doesn’t have that many parks but the Villa Borghese and its gardens are one of the most beautiful. The Villa is now a major art gallery with a lovely playful tortoise fountain outside. The gardens are lovely with a small zoo, grassed areas, lakes and trees. In summer it is a place of wonderful shade but in autumn with the leaves turning colour it is a place of quiet reflections. The gardens are on the hill above the Piazza Popolo and the Spanish Steps

Janiculum Hill

A great place to get a view of the city  is the Janiculum Hill. It is a considerable climb up from the Castel St Angelo but worth it. You hike up small roads until you get to the statue of Garibaldi and the terrace overlooking the city. Here you can see right across the city. Continue on along the Janiculum for more views and then descend through the botanic gardens past the Baroque fountain the Fontana dell”Acqua Paola into the bustling streets of Trastevere.

Castel Sant‘Angelo

The Castel Sant’Angelo is a contender for my favourite spot in the city. The Pont St Angelo, a magnificent bridge over the Tiber, provides a great approach to the round castle. 

Not that it started life as a castle. It was actually the mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian. It fortified to provide a safe retreat for the Pope in the turbulent times of the 14th century and you can still see the special papal access across the walls from the Vatican. Later it was used as a prison and today houses a museum and a great cafe on the walls. It is well worth the entry fee just for the views from the cafe and roof alone.

Ara Pacis

The Ara Pacis was awarded to Augustus in 13BC by a grateful senate after his campaigns in Spain and Gaul. It originally stood on the Field of Mars outside the republican city by the Tiber. At some point in the mists of history it was lost, buried under 4 metres of mud from the frequent flooding of the river and only rediscovered by Mussolini  in the 1930s.

The amazing huge marble edifice has now been splendidly rehoused in its own museum on the banks of the Tiber close to the Mausoleum of Augustus. 

The Ara Pacis is made of pure white marble and consists of a series of intricately carved friezes enclosing a marble dais. 

The size, detail and craftsmanship of this 2000 year old monument is astounding. The museum also houses a downstairs gallery which houses contemporary exhibitions. We had the luck to visit when an exhibition dedicated to Audrey Hepburn was installled giving a fascinating view of the city from the 60s onwards.

Note: The mausoleum of Augustus is under renovation after being closed to the public for many years. It is due to reopen this year.

Pantheon

The Pantheon is outstanding. The building has been in constant use for nearly 2000 years and sports one of the largest concrete domes in the world. The Oculi or opening in the roof allows sunshine to pour in to the centre of the building. 

It is apparently spectacular when it rains but it was dry on our visit. The building is clad at all its lower levels in spectacular marbles and gives a sense of what many of the ruined buildings in the forum would have been like before the marble was robbed by the popes to clad the Vatican.

We visited the Pantheon at several different times a day and were lucky one evening to come across a musical performance in the space which was quite magical.

Coloseum/Forum/Circus Maximus

We walked the ruins from Trajan’s column past the Coloseum, Arch of Constantine and the Forum down to the site of the Circus Maximus. 

Even in November the tourist queues were enormous and having visited before even though many years earlier we weren’t convinced we wanted to queue for hours and pay through the nose to go inside the Colosseum or the Forum so we viewed them from the outside this time. There is plenty to see for free.

Fountains

I love Rome’s fountains and they are well worth a tour of their own. Take time to taste a gelato by the Trevi whilst admiring the fabulous sculptures and throw a coin. 

The Piazza Navone with its fountains by Bernini is also worth a view, beautifully lit at night. But all over the city you come across fountains, like the one at the foot of the Spanish Steps.

Still to see

I intend to return to Rome to see the recently restored Pyramid, the Mouth of Truth, the Palatine Hill and take a trip out to the ruins of the Roman port of Ostia which friends assure me is spectacular. I also want to visit the many museums

Getting around the city

I love to walk a city as I feel you get the sense of the place and the people better. Rome is very good for walking as the historic centre is fairly compact although it would be better if more of it was pedestrianised. I loved the Via  Del Corso on a Sunday when it was traffic free.

Trains, trams, underground, buses and taxis. Rome has them all. The transport system is good although the undergournd is quite limited mainly because every time they try to build a line they find more ruins. I found trains, trams and underground easy to manage although was quite shocked to find that most of this system shut down at 9pm. Buses I struggled with. I find it hard in large cities to work out bus routes and our one foray onto the buses at night saw us sail past a lit Coloseum in quite the opposite direction from where we needed to go.

Eating out

Rome of all the Italian cities I have visited has some of the worst food. My hometown Italian chef says this is because no Italians cook in the restaurants because the pay is so poor. That said it is possible to eat great food in Rome but avoid all the tourist spots. The famous piazzas may be romantic but the food is lacklustre and overpriced.

For good food try the hidden squares with cafes packed with locals. We had our best meals in a small cafe in Trastavere on a hot afternoon (bean soup and a tricolore salad), in a wine sellers’ cavern where food was incidental to the fabulous glasses of wine  (a marvellous aubergine and tomato confection with mozarella and parmesan) and in a small workers cafe full of bus and train drivers (spaghetti)

Otherwise buy sandwiches from street stalls, enjoy gelato and sip coffees. And if you have hotel breakfast indulge and stock up your fuel for the day.

Where to stay

We stayed at the Northern end of the historic city centre just beyond the Piazza de Popolo in four star luxury at the Hotel River Palace on a special deal. 

When the heat in mid summer on the seaside at Nice becomes to hot its time to take a train trip on the Train de Pignes into the mountains.

The railway was started in 1887 to help open up the interior of the region bringing access to to the growing city  for people and produce. In turn it also sparked the growth of the spa town of Digne Les Bains high up in the Alpes de Hautes Provence mountains.

The original fine terminus station of the Gare de Sud at the time of my visit stood somewhat marooned next to a building site. In the 1990s the railway was bought by the regional government to secure its future. To provide additional funding for the railway they appear to have decided to move the terminus 500m further west thus freeing up a prime piece of land in the city for regeneration.

The land is due to be developed for retail and leisure purposes with the old station building with its fine steps at the front of the new development. It looks like you will when it is completed be able to walk through the new complex to the new terminus station. However at the time of my visit you needed to circumnavigate the building site to find the modest glass building tucked behind.

The railway still serves as a vital connection for rural communities but it is trying to make its living as a tourist railway. Ticket pricing for visitors reflects this objective. Compared with the mainline railway it is relatively expensive but the journey is well worth the money.

The 150km journey to Digne Les Bains takes three hours each way so you need to be on the early train if you want to make a day trip of it. I had considered staying overnight but in the end decided to take the railway to the historic town of Entrevaux about halfway up the line.

I boarded the modern train which is fully air conditioned as a steam train was only operating at limited times at this point in the season. The modern trains are comfortable with toilets although there are no refreshments. It’s definately worth buying a drink and sandwich in town as the station has no cafe either and the trip to Entrevaux is 90 min.

Initially the train slowly creeps through the outer suburbs of Nice heading West until it reaches the Var River. The river will be its companion for many miles as the single track railway clings to the river’s edge as it winds its way up the river gorge into the mountains.

Soon we have left all sign of habitation and are making our way up the gorge. At every twist and turn there are fanstastic views of the river, pastures and the mountains. Every now and then we pass through small villages and the train slows to a halt to pick up locals and walkers. The railway is many ways is like a preserved historic railway in England. The stations all look suitably vintage and near them are the paraphernalia of rail journeys past - old carriages, engines and maintenance wagons.

The climb is slow but continuous. Ears start to pop as we reach higher altitudes. Eventually the railway peels away from the river and starts to rise into the mountains entering a series of tunnels.

We arrive at the tiny station of Entrevaux which feels almost Swiss. The small station buildings sitting in a broad valley next to a gushing river. Once the handful of passengers leave the train and it chugs on up into the mountains a hush descends.

I walked out form the station, crossed the road and looked into the river gorge where the Var gushes down. Ahead across an ancient medieval bridge lies Entrevaux. Described as a town Entrevaux is more of a walled, castellated village which shows little sign of change from the 15th century.

Passing through the gatehouse I walk across the stone bridge admiring the huge drop to the river and enter the tiny streets between four storey stone houses. 

There is very limited vehicle access into Entrevaux the occasional Baby Fiat is seen but anything bigger would struggle. It is therefore a lovely pedestrian space to wander in. 

There are a few shops, restaurants and cafes but it is mostly people’s homes. It looks as if many people have moved from Enrevaux to Nice as there seems little work here and many of the homes are in serious need of repair. It is a gorgeous place in summer but its worth remembering that in winter months snow in the mountains can mean the only contact with the outside world is the railway.

There is a steep climb to the top of the hillside to visit the castle. Strangely there is no one staffing the entrance just an automated turnstile. It is a hot day and even this far into the mountains the temperature is nearly 30C. 

I decided to leave the castle for another time and instead explore the village and come across the magnificent Entrevaux Cathedral now designated as a parish church. 

Tucked next to the walls by the gorge with the river racing below the church has a serene courtyard and gardens and is exquisite inside. The painted roof of the church is decorated to look like the heavens at night.

I then stopped at a small cafe which seems built into the stone of the hillside descending into a cavernnous interior to place my order. The tables outside prove the perfect place to people watch as elderly people, children and tourists all wander past. I ordered a sandwich and home made lemomade. The cafe specialises in sweet crepes so I feel compelled to order a Grand Marnier and chocolate crepe accompanied by a coffee. Thus I whiled away an afternoon, letting the cafe dog adopt me and adore me until my food was finished and then abandon me.

I looked at my watch and realised I’d need to head off back to the station. 

I bade farewell to Entrevaux, headed back over the bridge and to the station.

There are only four trains a day on the line and I needed to catch the 15.40pm return or stay in Entrevaux for the evening and catch the 8.30pm train which wouldn’t get back to Nice until 10pm. The return train was packed and I squeezed into one of the remaining seats feeling sorry for anyone who joined us at the halts further down the line as they would be standing to Nice.

Long before Nice came into being people lived at Cimiez high on the hill above the river and coastal plain where the city now nestles. The Romans were here and you can view the ruins of their garrison, the painter Matisse lived here and his house is open to the public and serves as a musuem and the rich and famous stayed here in the first large hotels in the 19th century.

Walking up to Cimiez takes about 45 minutes and is quite a climb but its well worth the views. I took the route along the central gardens and then next to the River. This is not particularly beautiful but does give you a view of a different side of Nice. Here is the poorer housing and the diverse communities including many ethnic people. A sheer cliff has risen on the left hand side and this is now to be tackled. The paths up the cliffside consist of a mix of zig zags and steps. You need to be reasonably fit to do this climb and its best done early in the morning in summer before the heat of the day builds.

At the top you are rewarded with the lovely gardens of the Eglise Fransiscain. 

You can sit in the shade getting your breath back whilst admiring the views to the sea. There are a series of gardens planted in different colour pallettes and awash in summer with roses.

For a small fee you can also tour the Eglise Fransiscain. This allows access to a series of plain but serene rooms with views out over the gardens.

Next to the church is the cemetery with a series of impressive Art Nouveaux tombs.

Cross over from the monastery and you can walk amongst the trees in the gardens. These large gardens have a nice cafe where lunch and coffee can be bought as there are no cafes within the Roman ruins or Musee Matisse.

The Roman ruins and museum cover a substantial area and are included in the Nice museums pass. The museum is well interpreted and provides a welcome break from the sun. There is a good scale model of the whole site showing the garrison buildings, bath houses and 5,000 seater amphitheatre. 

This was a staging post guarding the strategic Roman road which crossed the coastal plain. Certainly from this viewpoint they would have early warning of any hostile invaders. There are lots of good finds in the museum including statues, tombs and grave markers.

Then you can walk outside amongst the ruins some of the walls are still standing up to 5m in height. This is a quiet space and when I visited there were few other visitors. It isn’t very well interpreted so its not always easy to imagine what this once looked like.

At the back of the site is the Matisse museum. The villa was originally built so that the Roman ruins were part of its gardens. 

Outside the park you can see the famous Hotel Execelsior Regina. Built in 1896 in anticipation of a visit from Queen Victoria. It still provides and imposing facade and you can take afternoon tea inside.

Then I took the more gentle descent via the Avenues des Arennes de Cimiez for my return route. A lovely afternoon stroll giving great views of the grand Belle Epoque mansions that sprang up here in the late 1890s. Most are now private apartments or government buildings so you can’t view the interiors but you can still enjoy the beautiful architecture and catch glimpses into the grand gardens.

Nice, France’s 5th largest city, sits in prime position on the Cote D’azure. The moment you see the sea from the Promenade D’Anglais you can see where the name comes from. The colours are absolutely amazing.

The city is home to a population of nearly 1 million people and is a favourite destination for French, English and Russians especially to get some winter sunshine.

Just up up the coast from its glamorous neighbour Cannes, Nice is undergoing a rennaissance with significant investment in the city infrastructure. Sleek trams criss-cross the city linking the airport, bus and train systems ensuring quick, efficient and cheap transport.

Buses from the airport whisk the visitor the 5km along the seafront and drop you by the lovely gardens which form La Promenade de Paillons

The central gardens

The heart of Nice is the La Promenade de Paillons either side of the Place Massena. These form a green oasis between the old and new towns. The municipal goverenment has transformed this area of the last decade. The gardens occupy the space where once the River Paillons ran to the sea. The river is now culverted beneath this area. This is a great area to walk, admire the beautiful flowers and be captivated by the huge fountain area. 

The hundreds of tiny fountains playing in programmed patterns appear, disappear and vary in size and flow to the delight of small children, dogs and adults alike. Daytime they provide a beautiful cooling space for play and night time with the addition of lighting they provide a hypnotic show. Wooden benches line the whole area but you have to grab your seats.

Walk further inland through the childern’s play area and you arrive at the Musee d’art Moderne et d’art Contemperain and the concert halls. Carry on and you will eventually come to the River Paillons before it vanishes into its subterranean world although in high summer the water levels are very low.

The old town

The old town is a glorious homage to the days when Nice was part of Italy. The architecture, the colours and the narrow lanes all remind one of Florence or Rome. This part of town is mainly pedestrian and is full of small independent shops and cafes.

For breakfast or a mid morning coffee try Emilie’s Cafe run by two local women who spent time in New York and have brought a sense of Americana mixed with a uniquely gallic twist to the city.

You can while away hours wandering through the network of lanes. It’s worth taking time to sit in one of the cafes overlooking the squares and enjoy a cafe or gelato and watch the world go by.

A favourite place to eat was the Restauarant de Gesu on the Place du Gesu which provides great home cooked food at good prices but you need to arrive early to grab a table as its popular with local and tourists alike.

Walk through here to the end of the seafront and you can take the lift up through the cliff to the old Fort high above the warren of lanes.

The Castle

Perched on a rocky outcrop over 300 feet above the city the Castle provides the perfect viewpoint to overlook the city on one side and the Port on the other.

There isn’t actually a lot to see at the Castle except the huge bastion walls but there is a nice cafe at the top and the views are spectacular.

The Port

Descend down the far side of the Fort in a series of zig zag paths and you eventually come to the harbour and port of Nice. This huge square harbour was built in 1745 and is lined by Italian style colonnades and restaurants. 

I took a ferry across the harbour which gives you the chance to view the luxury yachts which now fill the once busy Port. I then walked back round the harbour and by taking the back streets you can wind your way back to the

The modern city

The main shopping street Avenue Jean Medecin runs from the Place Massena up to the station. Here you will find the plate glass chain stores and department stores. 

The pavements are wide but full of people and trams zip past. At right angles either side of this main throughfare run a series of other shopping streets. At the seaside end the Rue Massena is pedestrianised and runs parallel to the sea providing shopping and cafes. 

A 15 min climb up the Avenue Jean Medecin and you come to the central train station on the Avenue Thiers. This is the place for mainline connections West to Cannes & St Tropez and East to Monaco and Menton.

Just beyond the turning for the mainline station is the old Gare de Sud station marking the start of the inland railway. This lovely listed building is now just the facade with the onec busy platform area behind being redeveloped as leisure and retail space. 

The modern Gare de Sud station sits tucked away 500m North ad provides the gateway to the interior. Trains run from here for over 80kms inland to the spa town of Digne Le Bains stopping on route at the medieval town of Entrevaux.

The architecture

I adore architecture and Nice is truly a feast for the eyes. The Italian style dominates the Old Town and the Place Massena but the new town is a testament to Nice’s boom days in the Belle Epoque. Take a stroll along the promenade, tear your eyes away from the mesmerising colours of the sea and you will be rewarded with an architectural feast from the Palais de la Mediterranee to the famous Hotel Negresco.

Then turn inland to view the Russian orthodox Cathedral of St Nicholas with its onion domes and turrets. Built to serve the Russians who holidayed here in Tsarist times and provided a refuge for the white Russians fleeing the Bolshevik revolution who fled to Nice in the 1920s.

The climb up to Cimiez (the site of the Roman town of Cemenelum) is also a great opportunity to spot the huge hotels from the early 1900s lined up along the Boulevard de Cimiez. Most of them have now been turned into apartments or are used as government buildings but you get a glimpse of what the city looked like in this period.

The Museums

The weather is pretty sunny year round in Nice but should the cold Mistral blow in during winter or the heat become to much in summer the city has over 20 museums. 

Parc Phoenix

A nice day out if you fancy a change for the culture and architecture is the Parc Phoenix. This zoological parc and gardens is just off the seafront not far from the airport. 

There are a series of lakes, gardens from different parts of the world and some large glasshouses. In amongst these are a range of wildlife including parrots, flamingoes and terrapins.

How to get there

Fly in to Nice Airport and then take the No 2 bus from  the bus station right outside departures to the Promenade de Paillon

Where to stay

Hotels in Nice are expensive but there is a huge range. For a budget option the Hotel Acanthe suited me perfectly.