High on the Lasithi Plateau in Crete
The Lasith Plateau lies high above the coastal town of Malia in Central Crete, hidden in the mountains. It can only be accessed by one of two passes either from Malia or Neapolis. Prior to World War 2 there was no road access to the plateau just mule tracks and even now the roads are small and wind up hairpin bends to access the passes. We took the Malia road rising up to the pass at Ambelos. On the way you get amazing views of the Limnikaro plateau below with its reservoir.
The first view of the pass is spectacular with its set of 34 ruined windmills sitting sentinel on the ridge facing into the prevailing wind.
At the windmills you can stop and walk around. One of the windmills which used to grind the wheat from the Lasithi Plateau has been restored so you can see what it would have been like. The windmills are an odd design with an oblong stone building. The Cretan sails are attached to one end of the oblong with all the grinding machinery fitted into that circle end. The rest of the building is a small room with a small hearth for the miller.
Descending into the Lasith Plateau you can see a few of the famous windmills which once covered the whole plateau in their hundreds as this photo from the sixties shows. They were used to pump the water up for irrigation. The plateau is an incredibly fertile plain which receives plenty of water in the winter and alluvial soil washed from the mountains. This is one place on the island where you can grow apple and cherry trees as well as a whole range of vegetables and wheat. Nowadays diesel pumps have replaced the windmills and their skeleton bodies litter the landscape. Only a few are left with sails spinning for the tourists.
The circular drive round the plateau is a pleasant drive amongst fields and through some of the small villages. Unfortunately this area has depopulated with easier money to made form tourism on the coast than agriculture. The villages are a mix of houses falling to pieces and new or restored buildings. But there appears to be a resurgence of tourism on the plateau with an eco village and a newly marked set of hiking trails. Shops in the villages specialise in honey, olive oil and embroidered tablecloths. Here you get a glimpse of a different Crete with elderly people dressed in traditional clothes.
About two thirds round the circuit if you go clockwise is the turning to the Diktean Cave, the claimed birthplace of Zeus. We decided not to visit the cavern as the guidebook mentioned a 15 min hike or donkey rides to the caves. I was happy to walk but could not bear the sight of donkeys carting overweight tourists. Please if you visit don’t ride a donkey they are not strong enough to carry people and it is very bad for their welfare.
The plateau is amazingly quiet so it is well worth getting out and having a walk. It is one of the few places on Crete where apples and cherries can be grown as well as providing vegetables and wheat.
We returned via the Ambelos pass and stopped at the lovely taverna which has outstanding views and offers good Cretan food at reasonable prices. In fact the food was so good that a whole Cretan christening party of over 200 guests arrived, plus five tours coaches but despite all the people it was still a lovely calm place to while away a Sunday afternoon.
