#newpatterns

Dolcezza has arrived!!

I am so excited that this pattern is out into the world! I had made plans for a July release, and of course with the year we have had and the fit issues Dolcezza gave me, July quickly turned into December! I would like to acknowledge and thank Deepika from Pattern Review for giving me a gentle nudge to followthrough and finish this pattern!

Dolcezza has two views. View A has my signature oversized petal sleeve and a pussy bow tie closure. View B has bishop sleeves, and tie front closure. They are interchangeable and can be worn for any occasion. You will see photos of me in both variations, as well as hacked versions. If you want to take your patternmaking further, you can join me on Patreon as I will be showing you how I hack my patterns to make even more views such as the back bowtie version which will be seen on my Instagram sometime this week. The focus of my Patreon will be skill building and hacking the pattern, as well as video sew a-longs.

This bolero looks unsuspectingly easy and comes together quickly but the hardest part is the tulip sleeve. I am going to review some tips for success for both views. Pressing is crucial, so take the extra time to press in between stages for successful results.

Here are my tips for success:

1. Do not backstitch. In general, I do not backstitch. Especially when you get to parts like the front ties, and the sleeve, backstitching will get things stuck in the feed dogs. Instead of backstitching tie off the thread with a few knots.

2. Finish the armhole with a bias binding facing. I measure the armhole once sewn and then cut 1.5" strips, press them in half, attaching them to the sleeve using a 1/2" seam allowance. I seam it together last at the underarm seam to ensure my math was correct. Then press those inwards and you have a clean finish. This is an alternative as hand-sewing in the area and even folding in on certain materials tends to stretch out the armhole! I used black cotton lawn for my version here:

If you use this method you will want to change the sewing order and finish your sleeve hem first before the armhole (so read on to step 3). Once attached you can slipstitch it to the inside of the garment (gently).

3. If you are not lining the tulip sleeve you should hem using a bias binding. I tried a narrow rolled hem multiple times and it DID NOT WORK. It creates odd puckers due to the shape of the sleeve. I recommend you attach the binding to the sleeve and then press folding into the inside of the sleeve. Then slipstitch it to secure it. If your material is sturdier (like a polyester) you can use a satin stitch to finish the sleeve and then trim.

4. Understitch to secure the bolero lining. I am not a huge fan of underlining so you will not see it in my instructions often, but it is a good thing to do for the facing to not roll towards the outside of the garment.

5. If you want a more finished look and want to take it further, topstitch by stitching in the ditch to secure the lining to the bodice.

If you want additional tips or would like access to the video sew-along in January, consider signing up for my Patreon! We will be sewing the Dolcezza Bolero the third week of January.

Update: December 23, 2020. The Calma Summer Skirt is now a paid pattern and can be purchased in my shop here.Can you believe I have been working on a free pattern since April of this year? What started as a pinafore, then became an apron wrap dress, which became a top, which became a skirt. I simply could not make up my mind! Committing to something as a creative can be hard, but I have dedicated this year to follow through. Although an idea may change, at some point I need to make a decision and stick with it.

On a recent camping trip with dear friends, I thought long and hard on what addition I wanted in my me-made wardrobe that felt comfortable doing anything! As I started thinking, I observed what different people wore from a distance.  Things that were important for me in a garment were comfort, some ease, sun coverage, and feelings of fabulousness! I love putting one thing on and instantly feeling great about myself.

Once we returned home, I kept thinking about what type of garment I wanted to create. So while I snuck my Patagonia wrap pants out of the dirty clothes hamper for the third time, I dreamed of a skirt that would be lovely to feel fancy in at the grocery store, and comfortable enough that you won't forget to take it camping.   The Calma Summer Skirt is the perfect wardrobe staple that transitions well into Fall. It works best with fabrics that have drape and can be sewn up in 1 day or less. It is practically a zero waste garment, and you can save your scraps as I teach you scrap buster projects over the Fall and Winter months to help you reduce what gets thrown into the trash. No scrap is too small.

Have you sewn your own skirt? Do you want to write a positive review or advice to other sewists? If so, you can leave me feedback here Here are some makes by my lovely testers. I must say that the testing process was the most fun of everything. My heart leaps seeing people creatively express themselves through sewing. Everyone has such unique styles and perspectives.

Gabrielle @alifeofitsewn

Emma @coffeeandglassslippers

Eugenia @crumbsandgiggles

Marianne @mrnfnrn

Elena @elenarchivist