Why did scientists choose Lager for the beer taste test? How 1,000+ molecules decide whether you like a lager.
Beer is a "flavor amplifier" due to alcohol, carbonation, bitterness from hops, sugars, proteins & acids. These interact with mkolecule4as & boost their sensory impact. The CO₂ bubbles push aromas upward into your nose, alcohol acts like a solvent, & the hops' bitterness makes any harsh molecules even harsher. Volatile compounds like esters & floral molecules evaporate easily & give a pleasant, fruity, sweet aroma. These are loved by most beer drinkers. Whereas non-volatile compounds are drivers of harshness, as summarized in Chemical & Engineering News. The "bad" molecules that make some beer drinkers turn their noses, medium-chain fatty acids, can make beer taste soapy, waxy, & harsh. Oxidized hops can create a metallic, stale, or puckering sensation. To analyze beer's compounds, scientists used liquid chromatography (LC), a process that pushes beer through a long tube in which beer is separated into 100s of tiny chemical "lines," each representing a different compound.
They also used gas chromatography (GC), where volatile molecules evaporate, which highlights aroma molecules—the ones your nose detects. After LC & GC separate the molecules, this is followed by mass spectrometry (MS), which blasts them apart into charged fragments, then weighs those fragments & produces a unique molecular fingerprint. Scientists compare these fingerprints to databases to identify each molecule. MS can detect 1,000s of molecules (as in our lager beer sample) at unbelievable levels—even parts per billion (ppb) or parts per trillion (ppt). MS is the core identification tool in what is known as "flavoromics." Lager was chosen for the taste test because it is the most "neutral" of beers for human tasters. It's the best "control beer," making off-flavors easier to detect.
It's interesting to note that when several of the "bad" compounds were dissolved in plain water, trained testers could barely detect them, but when added back to beer, drinkers described the result as "harsher, sharper & more bitter." The finding points to one of the central lessons of flavor chemistry (flavoromics): taste is not simply the sum of individually detectable ingredients. Flavor emerges from complicated interactions among alcohol, aroma compounds, sweetness, carbonation, & the brain itself. The 4 nonvolatile compounds that strongly correlated with consumer disliking included feruloyl 3-hydroxyagmatine, p-coumaroyl-hydroxyagmatine, & N1, N10-diferuloylspermidine—scary names that sound less like beer ingredients & more like rejected villains from a Marvel movie.
All these molecules share a common fragment that forms the basis of cinnamon's flavor. One of the molecules, ethyl 3-methylthiopropionate, was bipolar because one part of the molecule (thiol) is notorious for some of the worst stenches in chemistry—the kind that can clear a lab of even the most hardened organic chemists in a Miami minute. The other part of the same molecule is pleasant (an ester)—a diverse class of volatile compounds found throughout nature in some of the most delightful flowery scents & fruity flavors. (Joke time)! What is the definition of an organic chemist? Someone who washes his hands before he goes to the bathroom. What happens when the two unlikely compounds join together? Strangely, you get the good, the bad, and the ugly. Some describe the beer like a sweet onion; others say it's sulfurous, fruity, tinny pineapple, musty tomato with metallic ripe & canned notes, savory green with hints of horseradish & tropical notes, cheesy, or like cabbage. (No wonder I don't like beer.)
Finally, did you ever wonder when beer was first produced & where? Beer was first produced in ancient Sumer (Mesopotamia) around 5,000-6,000 years ago. They made it from barley, baking a special bread (called "bapir"), crumbling it into water & letting wild yeast ferment it, & they would drink the cloudy, porridge-like beer through straws. A staggering amount of Sumerian grain was sent into ale, something like 40% of the total. The ordinary workman received a ration of just 2 pints a day, but senior dignitaries received more than 8 pints, some of which was used as currency. At the time, the citizens only drank ale because water came from irrigation canals, which were badly contaminated, rather than free-flowing streams. So of course, there was no coffee, no tea & no grape wine.
Most of the brewers in the ancient world were women. Sumer had 8 types of barley ale, another 8 from wheat & 3 made from mixed grains. The quality of their beers was variable. Indeed, the Code of Hammurabi (1750 BCE) sounds very much like the 1980 Campaign for Real Ale in its condemnation of "understrength & overpriced." Ale cures many ills, except the ones it causes. Or, as Shakespeare said, "Do you think because you are virtuous, there shall be no more cakes & ale?"