I sewed a sports bra for the first time!
Pattern: Jalie 4014 Coco Sports Bra
Supplex knit from Our Social Fabric
Knit mesh from Our Social Fabric
I've hestitated about writing this post for a few months now, for several reasons: my first make didn't turn out very good; I didn't take many photos of it; and it's a rather personal item (it's underwear!).
But making my own activewear and underwear has been a goal for some time now. My favourite sports bra was discontinued by the manufacturer; they released an X-back bra that was similar, but I didn't like the crossing straps.
Jalie Coco's View A seems like a copycat for this sports bra, but they also offer a racerback version in View B.
I also appreciate that Jalie offers step-by-step photo tutorials for this pattern! I found steps 34-35-36 a bit under-explained in the instruction PDF and I might have misinterpreted it, if had been my first time doing something similar ("burrito method"; here's an explainer video by Seamwork).
This was my first time working with clear elastic. Again, I found the PDF instructions basic (but not inaccurate!) and would have appreciated more guidance.
I read several reviews and blog posts about the pattern; including this one by activewear sewing designer Melissa Fehr, who gave this tip:
cut your two layers of lining stretch mesh for the Lining Side piece (G) at 90 degrees to each other. Stretch mesh is always more supportive in one direction than the other, and this has been my trick for years for preventing both up & down and side-to-side motion
Melissa also describes how the Band panel (E) is sized incorrectly for the wider elastic (link). The pattern as written can be made with a "40 mm" wide elastic, but what they really mean is 38 mm, because 1½ inch elastic is sometimes sold as "40 mm". If your elastic is 38 mm, no adjustments are required; but if it's 40 mm, you need to widen the panel by 6mm.
Clear elastic is applied to the neck and arm holes. Because I used a mesh lining, the elastic could be seen and felt on the skin side.
I also tried making the pocket for foam cups, but had a very difficult time zig-zagging the pocket openings!
Some more thoughts about the construction:
The instructions have you cut two Back panels (D) from the main fabric. Wearing the finished result, I didn't like how heavy it was, and in future versions, I cut one Back from Main, and one from Lining.
The final fit felt a bit too long for me, by about 1" in the front and 1.5" in the back.
Sewing the band was incredibly difficult, going through so many layers of fabric all at once! I would cut the Band (panel E) with a bias join in the future, to distribute the seam allowance over more distance.
The very last step is to close the band with a zigzag stitch all around. I didn't feel my machine could do that and produce a good result, so I switched my thread to Eloflex (stretchy thread) and did a straight stitch. I wasn't able to always grab the lining correctly underneath, but I think this looked better, and would be less prone to breakage.
After trying this out for a few weeks, I ultimately gave it to a friend who was looking for a new sports bra. She's very happy with it, wearing it for dancing, and showing it off at every opportunity! I wish I'd taken some better photos before I gave it away, but I'm very glad that it's being used!
Since making this one, I've made several more, and I hope to post about them soon!