Eating is an important part of culture and it helps me experience that place in a way that I tend to remember. UsuallyĀ when I recall a place, I recall something I ate. I can still smell and taste the pho in Ho Chi Minh, Ā a Victoria sponge cakeĀ in London or a long black coffee in Melbourne.
There are a million resources to help you research what and where to eat. In fact, thereās probably too much information to sift throughābetween the guides (Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, Wallpaper Guides), online resources (TripAdvisor, Yelp, Instagram, Pinterest), and celebrity chefs (Anthony Bourdain, Guy Fieri). I tend to do a little bit across each of these as I research a destination. I jot down places here and there and ultimately a few make it onto my placemat (my one pager of crib notes). Of course, one of the best ways to learn is to ask people who live there, have visited or who work there (think concierges, bartenders, etc.).
One way Iāve found to ensure that Iām eating locally is to book a food tour. I first did this in Vietnam because the primary reason for the trip was the food (thank you Anthony Bourdain). Add in a language barrier and an uncertainty of what was what while eating, the much-discussed-imminent threat of TD and it was a no brainer. I booked a food tour in each main city I visited (Ho Chi Minh, Hoi An and Hanoi). I usually booked it no earlier than a day or two in advance and used sites like TripAdvisor and ultimately Viator to find a local, reputable tour.
Iām just back from Montreal where I took the Mile End Food Tour. Caroline, our guide, was outgoing, informative and seemed to have the right amount of humor to keep a dozen of us entertained for three hours. We had a total of seven stops, six being food stops.
Hereās how much I ate in 3 hours:
Falafelās okay āĀ My past experience with it is that it can be a bit dry. Well, the first stop proved me wrong as the falafel was delicious. It was fresh and the combination with cornichons, sprouts and slaw in a pita was heavenly. It was so good that I returned the next day for lunch on my own. (tip: take a food tour earlier in your trip so you can re-visit any faves afterward). Place: La PanthĆØre Verte ā a local, vegan, organic restaurant.
Chocolate ā Iām not necessarily a chocolate lover but hey, everyone can appreciate fancy chocolates. We sampled a brownie in hot chocolate and it was pretty damn tasty. You only need a bite otherwise youāll be wired for the next week as itās decadently sweet. The shop was adorable and a great place to visit and pick up any gifts or souvenirs for chocoholics. Place: Chocolats GeneviĆØve Grandbois ā a fancy chocolatier.
MontrĆ©al bagels ā Apparently thereās a bagel war between New York and MontrĆ©al. Raised as a New Yorker, Iām not sure itās a legitimate war.Ā Itās not that one bagel is better than the otherāitās like comparing a slice of Grandmaās pizza to a slice of Sicilianāthey are different. NY bagels are meals ā you can throw an egg or turkey or cream cheese on it and youāre good to go until your next meal. The Montreal bagel seemed to me more like a dessert or snack bagel. Itās sweeter and smaller than a NY bagel. The sweetness is from the honey put in the mix. Theyāre open 24/7 to keep the fire at a constant heat to get the perfect bagel. Similar to Philly with cheesesteaks, thereās a showdown between two famous bageliers: St-Viateur and Fairmount. Place: St-Viateur Bagel ā making bagels since 1957.
Rialto Theatre ā This was a bathroom stop and a chance to see an old movie palace that was modeled (perhaps inspired is a better description) on the Paris Opera House. Today, itās maintained beautifully and rented out for all sorts of shows ā comedy, plays, movies and music.
Take-out Gnocchi ā thatās right, gnocchi to go. Imagine a pint size Chinese food container filled with hot fresh gnocchi and a marinara sauce youāll lick out of the box. Oh, and thereās some parmesan sprinkled on top. If I lived in Mile End, I would be a frequent and loyal customer. Place: Drogheria Fine, a purveyor of authentic Italian pasta sauce.
Charcuterie ā I love a plate of charcuterie. There were a few things that made this less than charcuterie heaven. First, itās towards the end of the tour so weāve eaten a lot, and a lot of carbs so lethargy is setting in. The store was also very hot. The full sun was beaming through the solar shades and we all were fanning ourselves for some relief. The sample plate was full of meats (ham, salami and a pĆ¢tĆ© of sorts) along with two types of cheeses. It was missing one of my favorite ingredients ā the pickle! They sold jars of them so not sure why none made it onto the plate. The ham had a small sliver of fat that transformed it into a really great bite. This may be a good place to get some stuff for a takeaway snack or lunch. Place: Boucherie Lawrence, a (fancy) butcher shop offering locally and respectfully raised meat.
Does everyone scream for ice creamĀ ā Ice cream with a twist of sour cherry sorbet. Similar to chocolate, Iām not a huge fan of ice cream. There are many other ways Iād rather consume my calories and being lactose intolerantĀ does not help. We ended the food tour at a little joint close to Drogheria Fine. The small cup of ice cream was a perfect size and I did my best to focus on the swirl of sorbet, pushing aside all the vanilla ice cream. The concept of this place is French with Vietnamese influence and the name translates to ice cream with auntie #3. Place: Kem Coba, the fine dining of ice cream and sorbet.
Ā Falafel pita at La PanthĆØre Verte
Chocolates at Chocolats GeneviĆØve Grandbois
MontrƩal bagels at St-Viateur
Fresh gnocchi + marinara at Drogheria Fine sauce
Charcuterie at Boucherie Lawrence
Another great reason to take a food tour is the chance to meet other travelers. I ended up going to the lookout at Mont Royal with a few Aussies and then ran into a couple from Louisiana the next day at the MusƩe des beaux-arts. So, take a food tour next time you hit the road for a taste of what the locals eat and love.
Ho Chi Minh City: Street Food Man
MontrƩal: Mile End Food Tasting
How much can you eat in 3Ā hours? Eating is an important part of culture and it helps me experience that place in a way that I tend to remember.