#tratturo

Tratturo che non esiste, ritrovato 🚜. 🌲✓ Risolviamo tutto o quasi🤣

Yesterday was the first of May,  ironically a day of celebration for the working man. Following in the footsteps of those who trod the ancient  Celano to FoggiaTratturo - One of a network of drover’s paths, hosting the annual Transhumance which runs below my house in Molise, I walked with a local guide Guglielmo Ruggerio (CIMEtiamoci) just a small section of the route.

Sadly now the tratturi are extremely neglected, although thanks to the efforts of a number of local people their importance is beginning to be recognized.

As a local archaeologist walking with us yesterday reminded us the origins of these routes reach back thousands of years.

In recent years few people have walked them in their entirety or even in part, although a professor Corrado Guarino Lo Bianco walked the Celano to Foggia Tratturo in 2011. I hope to track him down as immensely impressed by what he did.

http://www.leviedellatransumanza.org/index.php/en/contatti-en-uk

Mainly for shepherds to bring their sheep and cattle to fresh green pastures they were also trade routes which provided local people with fresh produce and news of life further afield. With no cell phones, internet or television the world was a smaller place

There is even a suggestion that the network of routes may eventually be recognised become a national treasure if the plans to develop go ahead with UNESCO.

http://www.repubblica.it/cultura/2018/03/27/news/italia_candida_transumanza_a_patrimonio_culturale_dell_umanita_unesco-192388096/

However, in the meantime, local walking groups and many individuals continue to strive to encourage a collective responsibility in a part of Southern Italy’s history which has remained forgotten and largely ignored for many years. 

My quest is not for the Holy Grail but to work with others to rekindle interest and recognition of the tratturi, in particular, the route to Celano - Foggia which runs right across my land.

So when local guide Guglielmo Ruggerio (CIMEntiamoci) contacted me to suggest my joining them on a walk along a small section of the Tratturo here I literally jumped with joy

.https://www.facebook.com/www.cimentiamoci.it/

The group of ten or so were of mixed ages and abilities but this part of the Tratturo presents little challenge to anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. The only difficulty perhaps being the steepness of the path in places. As we walked downhill this was not particularly difficult, although getting back up would not be so easy. 

Although much of the tratturi has been poached by local landowners over the years, and indeed in parts become part of a road, or even built on. 

Originally they were 111 metres wide, or sixty Neopolitan steps ( An ancient measurement which was apparently the distance between two of the milestones which were once in place along the route, although now few of them survive.

In my research, I just today I came across some current work carried out by students at Molise university. It is a hugely valuable and interesting source of information for anyone interested in finding out more about the history of the Transhumance and Tratturi. 

file:///C:/Users/PC%20User/Downloads/land-07-00003%20(1).pdf

I hope to get in contact with them to find out more.

Back to my walk. 

Just a few steps from home I fell in love with Molise all over again when a view of the Biferno valley opened up before me. 

An immense patchwork of colour laying across the landscape, with a greater array of greens than any artist could produce on a palette. 

Taking photographs is a must, but they do not do justice to the simply breathtaking view of field, stone, path and mountain.

There are already a huge variety of flowers in abundance, but I unable to name them all. 

The bright purple Orchids stood proudly above the gently wafting grasses surrounding them, pink and white Dog Roses adorned a multitude of bushes, and abundance of pretty white Blackthorn blossom perfumed the air. 

These were just merely a few, many other blooms whose names I need to discover. 

Nature is at work too with animal and insect life too. 

At the top of the path just below the road from Lucito to Castelbottacio, there is a small spring, which once was commonly frequented by local children to catch frogs or play, but now no, as games on phones and computers sadly seem much more interesting.

Yesterday the spring was teaming with Tadpoles, flicking their tiny tales and biding time until they turn into frogs and can hop away.

For me yesterday was just the start of a new adventure to explore the Tratturi of Molise, to find out more about its history and those whose feet in ancient times trudged along its grassy tracks. 

Join me in my quest by following my blogs, check out my website, perhaps even visiting me, and helping me if you can to restore something that must not be forgotten.

www.labbracciodeltratturo.com

Here on the Celano to Foggia Tratturo which meanders its way across Molise the water from an old spring dribbles and drips into a large stone trough, and whilst exploring there with friends the other day, we came across a rather unusual reptile called a SKINK.

With a history stretching back almost 140 million years the SKINK is a type of lizard, but over time evolution has seen the disappearance of its legs, although apparently they sometimes they do still have them. 

Although not rare they are not usually seen at this height in Italy. 

Our smallholding sits at just over 600 metres or 2000 feet, amidst woodland and meadow, scattered with Olive, Apple,  Almond Trees, and a small vineyard.

Now in the throes of spring, we are drenched in a symphony of colours, yellows, pinks, purples, blues, and whites.

The meadow beside our house is littered with flowers and plants now establishing themselves after laying dormant over the winter.

Bright yellow flowers adorn the Mustard plant which grows in abundance on our land. Now only small it grows to more than a metre currently towering over everything else around it. 

Other blooms sit nestled amongst the grass, the bright pink Italian Orchid, strands of Purple Vetch, and the Clover is just beginning to burst forth.

Walking the dogs across the field and brushing the leaves of mint the aroma is quite delicious. This herb, not the only edible plant which grows here. 

Wild Asparagus can be found in the woodland here and makes a welcome addition to an Omelette or Italian Frittata.

As yet I am unable to identify many of the others but have started to pull little tasty scallions from the sandy soil on the hillside. They make a welcome addition to a soup or salad.

A quiet tranquil place, sitting here at the computer the only sounds are birds singing their songs with the glee. 

The Cuckoo has begun to sing this week and although a rather mischievous, even perhaps evil bird, it's distinctive call is unmistakable. 

Sitting in the large Fir just outside my window I can just see a tiny blue breasted Blue Tit join the chorus before it darts off once again with a start.

Dominating the terrain here the Buzzard swoops, drifts and circles eyeing the ground below searching constantly for a meal.

Fortunate enough to reside on the edge of the Tratturo there is a wealth of nature at my feet.  

What is a Tratturo?

A Path, which stretching across Southern Italy forms part of a network of routes once followed by Shepherds herding cattle and sheep in what was called the TRANSUMANZA ( The transumanza is the Italian term for transhumance, the traditional twice-yearly migration of sheep and cows from the highlands to the lowlands, and vice versa. The word literally means "crossing the land")

I live on the Celano to Foggia Tratturo and am fascinated by its history and what remains of the old paths, which are intrinsically entwined into the stories of the region and its people.

Restoring my dilapidated old farmhouse here or hovel as my son in law calls it, is a challenge but with the help of my partner Trish we are getting there.

Our plan is to create a cultural centre, Natural park, and a Woodland of Magic to encourage and stimulate interest in both the TRATTURO as well as the natural environment of Molise.

Today I spoke with a local Riding School, here in Molise, not far from where I live and they too are passionate about the Tratturo.

http://www.occhitoridingholidays.com/en/

In fact they will be even bringing a group of riders along the Tratturo in July. A very exciting prospect for us and them.

I am hoping we can combine with a festival on the tratturo here in Lucito. More about that in another blog.  

 Today the sun was shining and looking across at the views across the valley, and the hazy mountain peaks of the Apennines I decided once again that I would not want to anywhere else. 

Now as summer approaches the TRATTURO below my house is green, speckled with yellow, white, blue and purple flowers all nestled in amongst the soft downy grass.  

Now as few feet tread upon it’s flora and fauna it remains a sanctuary for nature to run riot.

There are apparently some rare plants remaining on parts of the ancient routes one of which is LA STIPA. 

A type of grass apparently used by fairies to weave into cloth, which when one looks at it fine feathery fronds is not hard to imagine.

. http://www.terremarsicane.it/il-tratturo-delle-fate-note-di-franco-sabini-e-romolo-liberale/.

Later this week I am meeting with a neighbour to start recording the history of Lucito’s memories of the Tratturo, and the Transumannza. 

He still tends his goats, on the ancient lands below his farm, wiling away hours watching the world go by as he done since he was a boy, happy in his own thoughts and contemplations.

 He can remember when the land below us here saw a steady stream of sheep and sometimes cattle meander leisurely over the land grazing as they went, often as many as several thousand at a time.

Many traditions relating to TRANSUMANZA are still maintained, one of which is the a type of bagpipe like musical instrument called the Zampogna

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlyVLl2KxVY

Leaving you with the dulcet and melodic tones of this ancient instrument I am off to dream about those who wandered on these lands in ancient times.

I am contemplating to the words of this poem 

  RoadsBY

EDWARD THOMAS

I love roads:

The goddesses that dwell

Far along invisible

Are my favorite gods.

Roads go on

While we forget, and are

Forgotten like a star

That shoots and is gone.

On this earth 'tis sure

We men have not made            

Anything that doth fade

So soon, so long endure:

The hill road wet with rain

In the sun would not gleam

Like a winding stream

If we trod it not again.

They are lonely

While we sleep, lonelier

For lack of the traveller

Who is now a dream only.

From dawn's twilight

And all the clouds like sheep

On the mountains of sleep

They wind into the night.

The next turn may reveal

Heaven: upon the crest

The close pine clump, at rest

Ancl black, may Hell conceal.

Often footsore, never

Yet of the road I weary,                  

Though long and steep and dreary,

As it winds on for ever.

Helen of the roads,

The mountain ways of Wales

And the Mabinogion tales,

Is one of the true gods,

Abiding in the trees,

The threes and fours so wise,

The larger companies,

That by the roadside be,

And beneath the rafter

Else uninhabited

Excepting by the dead;

And it is her laughter

At morn and night I hear

When the thrush cock sings

Bright irrelevant things,

And when the chanticleer

Calls back to their own night

Troops that make loneliness

With their light footsteps’ press,

As Helen’s own are light.

Now all roads lead to France

And heavy is the tread

Of the living; but the dead

Returning lightly dance:

Whatever the road bring

To me or take from me,

They keep me company

With their pattering,

Crowding the solitude

Of the loops over the downs,

Hushing the roar of towns

"Un luogo dove si è più vicini al cielo, e più vicini a Dio".

Sì, in Abruzzo è possibile sentirsi più vicini all'infinito. 

Più vicini alla terra. 

Più vicini al proprio sé superiore.