Whilst reading a few of textile journals last week, I noticed that Qmilk was mentioned in a couple of them. Seeing as it had been mentioned by more than one specialist textile journal, I thought I was worth me investigating this fibre as I had never come across it before and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about-Christine Conklin writes about Qmilk in Surface Design's Spring 2013 issue  and describes it as 'an alternative to resource-hungry cottons and synthetics' and a 'perfect example of how thinking green can make the world more beautiful.' This got me intrigued and so I read more about the processing of the fibre and how it is categorised as an 'eco-friendly' textile.Â
Developed in Germany by Anke Domaske, Qmilk is a fibre from casein which is a protein byproduct from Industrial cheese manufacturing. Casein fibres have been around and used for a long time, however, Qmilk has made a more sustainable model that is now beginning to be translated into large scale production. A new line is under construction at the moment which will have a capacity of around 100kg per hour, compared to the current pilot line which has an hourly output of 6kg. It received a Techtextil Innovation Award this year for these developments. (Wilson, Ecotextile News)
The process begins with reducing spoiled milk to a protein powder. This is then boiled and pressed into thread which can then be used for textile construction. As mentioned before, casein fibres aren't anything particularly new, however Domaske replaced some processes such as wet spinning with formaldehyde which was used to make the fibre more stable and water resistant and instead uses other natural resources. Also, no coagulation bath is used which means less water is used and thus wasted and other waste is also minimal. The process also doesn't require any bleaching or dyeing to achieve its bright white colour. A short processing time also means that this new technique developed for casein fibres allows it to be an ecologically sound way of manufacturing fibres and textiles.
The fabric itself is silky, washable and soft which lends itself well to use within the fashion industry and can also be used for underwear as it has antibacterial properties and can also keep skin moisturised. It takes colour well and can be dyed with ease, thus particularly useful within the fashion Industry that so heavily relies on the aesthetic appeal of fabrics, not just there function.Â
Domaske also has a eco-firendly clothing line that uses fabrics created from Qmilk. Textiles created from Qmilk have also been used in medical industries for bandages due to its antibacterial properties, home textiles in mattresses and bedding as well as automotive interiors.
An example of apparel from Domaske's fashion label Mademoiselle Chi Chi
It is wonderful to see how a fibre can be developed from a byproduct from the food industry which would otherwise go to complete waste. I wonder if large scale production can be sustained once it begins as it will become increasingly reliant on the cheese/milk industry. I would be interested to see any research into how changes within local economies and quotas for industrial cheese production will affect Qmilk and if this production process can be translated to other countries too.
I still think it is a brilliant idea and one of great ambition. We often limit our understanding and choice of textiles to well known fibres such as cotton or polyester, however, it is these innovative processes of production and recycling in this way that can lead to new and exciting developments. It is up to designers and consumers to start using alternative fabrics as this is perhaps one of the only ways of developing and sustaining a future for the textile Industry.Â
'Getting the Job Done' by Adrian Wilson, Ecotextile News, Issue No: 56, August/September 2013
'How Textiles are Saving the World' by Christina Conklin, Surface Design, Spring 2013
http://www.de.qmilk.eu/presite/
http://www.ecouterre.com/the-internet-got-it-wrong-german-biologist-didnt-claim-to-invent-milk-fiber/anke-domaske-milk-clothes-7/
