Apr 20, 2024
Ball Gown
Emile Pingat (Paris, France)
c.1864
The MET (Accession Number:C.I.69.33.12a–c)
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Ball Gown
Emile Pingat (Paris, France)
c.1864
The MET (Accession Number:C.I.69.33.12a–c)
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Dress designed by Emile Pingat, French, about 1889
From the Museum of Fine Arts Boston
When you think about wearing a dress to dinner, it probably isn't this extravagant. But for Victorians, dinner gowns were totally a thing. In fact, it wasn't uncommon for ladies of status to change three or four times a day!
This gown is by Emile Pingat, a French designer and contemporary (and competitor) of Charles Frederick Worth. He began his fashion house in the mid-1860s, and went on to dress some of the wealthiest, most sophisticated people in Europe and the Americas.
To me, Pingat is immediately recognizable with his divine details, architectural tailoring, and relatively earthy color palette--lots of black, gold, tan, and neutrals.
This 1885 dinner gown is no exception. It's silk velvet and machine made lace, but all about the details. The lace overlay mimics brocades and damasks, but the extra sheerness makes it extra glimmery. Plus we've also got a train--always a plus. We know it was worn by socialite Mrs. Charles G. Roebling. The gown also has another bodice, as many dresses did during this period.
From the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
This Patterns & Blueprints item by mimicofmodes has 2 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from United States. Listed on Sep 24, 2023
You may remember me putting out a graded version of this same pattern months ago. However, I actually pulled it when someone bought it and told me that the grading was so messed up that it shouldn't be offered for sale, and then I never got around to fixing it because I don't know what I'm doing in the grading arena and I doubt I ever will, without the time and energy to do extensive mockups myself.
I've decided that it makes the most sense for me to simply make gridded patterns à la Janet Arnold and sell them for significantly less than graded ones, since they represent less time on my part and more difficulty on the users', if they want to turn them into actual clothing. They can also be used for research purposes much more readily than the graded patterns.
So you can certainly look out for more of these in the future!
1878 Dinner dress, Silk brocade lace silk satin by Emile Pingat.
Dinner dress, 1878 (back oblique partial view). Silk brocade, lace, silk satin by Emile Pingat.
Photo by Chicago History Museum.
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La Mode nationale, no. 22, 25 septembre 1886, Paris. No. 5. — Royal manteau Pingat. (Dessin de A. Foa.) Modèle de la maison E. Pingat, 30, rue Louis-le-Grand. 1 (Dos). 2 (Devant). Bibliothèque nationale de France
This sumptuous Victorian silk brocade and silk satin dinner dress by the House of Pingat was purchased in Paris by Mrs. Augustus Newland E
Pingat coat ca. 1890
From Hindman