Ball gown, Au Bon Marché (1905-1906)
via Museum für Kunst & Gewerbe Hamburg
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Ball gown, Au Bon Marché (1905-1906)
via Museum für Kunst & Gewerbe Hamburg

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Silk satin & linen waistcoat. Early 19th century according to Kerry Taylor Auctions, but to me it looks much more 1780's. That closely spaced double breasted look is a very 80's style, and in the 1790's the 2 rows of buttons get much further apart.
The slanted collar and lack of big lapels do give it a somewhat early 19th century look, but I suspect this is altered from a longer waistcoat of at least a few decades earlier. The way the front edge curves just looks "off" for this later style, and the buttonholes appear to be the earlier style that are long and only partially opened, so you can have small buttons and a long decorative buttonhole. Very clever to just sew another row of buttons onto the ends to update the look!
Also you'll notice in the last picture that the linen thread used to whip the lining down around the buttonholes is the same weight as the stuff used to sew on the buttons, but a totally different colour! The fact that the button threads are visible at all is another strong point in favour of it being altered, since the typical 18th century construction involves sewing the buttonholes and attaching the buttons before the lining is added, and we can see from the backs of the buttonholes that those were done in that order.
Anyways, the reason I wanted to post this in the first place is because I think the piecing is cool. Look at how economical they're being with their scraps! (Lots of extant garments are like this but it's no less delightful for being common.) The narrower strip at the side looks like it may have been added even later to accommodate growth, but the bit of linen that the pocket welt overlaps must have been there from the time it was cut down and updated. I love the little triangle bit of piecing on the collar lining, but the most exciting scrap is the piece of ikat on the back of the collar!
1845 green silk brocade evening dress with a white floral pattern, with a pleated skirt and boned bodice, that is shown here displayed with a lace bertha collar. Kyoto Costume Institute collection.
Evening dress ca. 1905
From Kerry Taylor Auctions
Red velvet dress, 1886, Swedish.
By Augusta Lundin.
Worn by Wilhelmina von Hallwyl at the wedding of her daughter Ebba.
Hallwylska museet.
KLÄNNING. Två liv och kjol jämte fem plymer och en knippa esprits. Av mörkröd silkessammet med garnering av svart chantillyspets och svart s

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That little heart detail on the coat…. 🔥
Met Costume Institute
Walking dress. British. ca. 1830
Not sure if it's the same one or just a very similar one, but the dressing gown that inspired yours is currently on display in the Powerhouse museum in Sydney! The colours aren't accurate since my phone likes to oversaturate things :(
Yes, that's the one!! Thank you for the closeups! It's neat to see that some of the damaged triangles have conservation mesh sewn over them, I hadn't seen that in any of the other photos. So many nice woven textures too.
I suppose I ought to add some pictures of my version for anyone who hasn't seen it.