#cotabato

A collection of kemagi tahu - women’s jewelry among the T’boli. Lake Sebu, South Cotabato, Mindanao, Philippines.

in the truck bed - cotabato, philippines

عيد مبارك‎!

Like what backpackers always say, comfort and laxness are nowhere to be found in places called adventures and challenges. Admittedly, travelling to provinces further in Mindanao has made us a bit apprehensive, but the unyielding thirst for adventure and wanderlust drove our backpacking crew to take the road less traveled, and witness the beauty of SOX that may not yet be on the tourist radar.

Backpacking across Mindanao can be exhausting and confusing, but it is always affordable, challenging, and truly life changing. Mindanao gives you the chance to escape the travelling hubbub, to travel to uncharted territory, and to see some of the most isolated, spectacular, and tranquil areas in the Philippines. 

If you can keep a low profile, a backpacking trip in Mindanao will be a rewarding adventure. Hiking the countryside means encountering the uncertain and the unexpected. Some of the great pleasures of backpacking is the possibility of traveling on a shoestring and sleeping in a different place every night. Many small delights can be found for less money than you expected -- enjoying the authentic cuisine in local restaurants, talking to habal-habal drivers, or simply drinking beers in front of the many sari-sari stores. These will give you a chance to rub elbows with the locals, making the evening much more interesting and exciting. 

Indubitably, in this very spontaneous trip, we had the most meaningful and genuine interactions with our Muslim brothers and the other local tribes here in Mindanao.

Deep in the mountainous forests of Alamada in Cotabato is Asik-Asik Falls, a cascade of waters coming from a lush mountain wall. 

Getting here is no walk in the park (read: I had butt cramps thrice). We took the 4AM bus from General Santos and arrived in the jump-off point to Asik Asik Falls at around 11AM (that's 8 hours of bus, jeepney, and habal-habal. Netflx to the rescue!) From the jump-off point, be prepared to hike down a thousand steps leading down to the falls. A bottle of drinking water can also come in handy especially for the hike back up.

The road may be rough going there, but for those who brave the long journey, the reward is seeing one of the most unique and beautiful waterfalls in the country. With trekking and at times “buwis buhay” feats involved, it only makes the breathtaking view of cascading waters thundering down into a calm pool even more worth it. It is unlike anything I’ve seen in the country. It’s an unspoilt, and is an enchanting sight that will leave you mesmerized at the beauty of the region.

Considered to be a masterpiece of islamic architecture, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah Masjid or the Grand Mosque now stands as a landmark in Cotabato City. Located at Barangay Kalangan II, it was named after the Sultan of Brunei, Sultan Bolkiah, who donated a huge amount for this architectural wonder and place of worship to materialize. Visitors are advised to dress conservatively. A malong or scarf, long sleeved shirts, and pants/long skirts will suffice. However, for those not in the proper attire, there’s a stall outside the mosque across the street where you can rent items for a small fee.

Muslim Rulers and Rebels: Everyday Politics and Armed Separatism in the Southern Philippines (1998) by Thomas M. McKenna

Note #1: Cotabato City is a Muslim-majority city located at the southwest region of the Philippines within the island of Mindanao. In a 2019 plebiscite, it became a part of the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the only autonomous region in the Republic of the Philippines.

Muslim Rulers and Rebels: Everyday Politics and Armed Separatism in the Southern Philippines (1998) by Thomas M. McKenna