Just to collect stuff!

You know the one:

This post brought to you by @hollowedskin, who tagged me and said "Gayle might end up doing it."

Which, yes, it is on my list, but also, not right this second. However, I do love a bit of research, so here is what I found.

First of all, this sweater was made from this Mary Maxim pattern:

Which I was about 99% sure of when it popped up on ravelry, but then I found this youtuber who confirmed it:

I have not watched the whole video, and I don't think I've ever seen Michelle pop up on my recommendations, but looking at that thumbnail, her work looks fantastic. I'm gonna go watch the whole thing now and will report back if I am iffy. I doubt I will be.

NOTE: When she made the video, you could only get the pattern as part of a kit. This is no longer true. The link above is ONLY the pattern.

EDIT: Oh, wait, the eyes are different! So, the "official" version of the knitting pattern IS only available in a kit, but if you can tapestry, I think you can easily just adjust the eyes to be more open like they are in that version. But it is still 100% based very much on the wolf pattern.

HI! YES I CAN.

So, first of all, you need to know what sort of stitch you're using. Then, you need to do a bit of an internet search to find out what crochet stitches dupe the knitting stitch you need.

In this case, "stocking stitch" is stockinette, and generally, yarn over slip stitch is the stitch that looks the most like stockinette. But, if you, like me, would rather eat your yarn than work nothing but slip stitches, you can just use single crochet. (waistcoast stitch also gets suggested but makes a particularly dense fabric that could throw off drape).

So, now that we know that, let's check the gauge:

Now, make a gauge swatch using the same yarn size and with the correct crochet hook that matches the needle size. Now, this pattern has 2 sizes, but it says use the larger one:

Now, I did not do the whole 20 rows for this example. I only did 5 rows because if we're trying to do a 4" square, then every 5 rows should be one inch:

So, bulky yarn on a 6.00 mm hook in single crochet:

1-3/4" tall by 5" wide. So, too big. Let's try it with a 5.5 mm really quick and see what happens:

1-1/2" tall by 4-3/4" wide. So, the gauge is still larger than gauge, BUT there's answer to that. Let's look at the sizes:

So, 14 / 4 comes out to 3.5 stitches per inch. And 20 / 4 comes out to 5 rows per inch. Now, looking at the sleeve, we see there's two sizes for the cuff start:

The 42, 44" chest size sleeve is 40 stitches, so 10 inches.

Th 38, 40 start is 36 inches, so a little under 9 inches (because it's 3.5 stitchess per inch)

HERE'S THE MATH PART: For our 5.5 mm measurement, we're getting 14 / 4.75 = 2.9 stitches per inch and 1.75" inches wide where we should be getting 1".

We have three options:

Make the smaller size and roll with the changed fit. If you need the 42-44" inch size chest, then just work the 38-40, but use the 42-44 size yarn requirements. It will likely come out somewhat larger overall, but if you're going for the movie fit, a bit oversized is the right vibe.

If you needed the smaller size, you can gauge with a worsted weight yarn on a 5 mm, 5.5 mm, or a 6 mm and see where you gauge out. Odds are, dropping to worsted and working one of those hooks will get the gauge the same.

Go math wild. The only parts of the pattern that you really need to stay the exact same size are the images. Leave them the same and cut plain rows to get a closer fit without sacrificing the images. Just make sure you write down exactly which rows you cut in one place so you can also cut them in others.

I will be making the 38-40 in bulky weight, personally. If it's too large for me, it'll fit Sean like a dream. And I can just steal it when I want to wear it.

Now, how to read the pattern:

Ignore all purling instructions. For our purposes, all knit and purl stitches are just single crochet. For ribbing, I suggest working alternating 2 regular sc, 2 blo sc across and then repeating for each row with regular single crochets stacking on regular and blo stacking on blo. That'll give you a ribbing to work from that is similar to what is recommended.

Next. When it says ssk, decrease the same number of stitches it says to skip.

If it says to bind off before starting knit stitches, slip stitch over those stitches. You can just not work the stitches on the other side if it's for armholes. SS and then not working the stitches on the other side is a common armhole technique in crochet.

And just follow the charts! Since this pattern is mostly charted, you can simply follow along as you would for any graphed crochet pattern.

The largest size is 80 stitches along the back. The original gauge is 3.5 stitches. So, 80 / 3.5 is 22.85

The smallest size is 68 stitches along the back. The gauge I worked out on the 5.5 mm hook is 2.947, so basically 3 stitches per inch. 68 / 3 is 22.6.

So, swapping the smallest size with the new gauge will get mee VERY close the original width.

HOWEVER, using the height gauge, the smallest size is 108 rows. I know every five rows is 1.75 inches. 108 / 5 * 1.75 comes out to 37.8 inches tall. Which is 10 inches longer than the longest length.

There's not a lot of places on the back to cut rows, so we're gonna have a long cardigan. I'm good with that.

Sky: Children of the Light Polymer resin clay sculpts (2022-2024)

I made this video to show to my cousin-in-law my old projects, and I figured I might as well share it here!

I also touched up on my old sculpt, added the 13th wedge on him while I was at it ^u^

This was such a joy to make, I hope you like it!

Kawkaw has sounds (of course), can dig and popup along your desktop window floor, and interact with Ralsei!

short notes under the cut:

So I really put on my brave face today and was Trans in a Public Space! Which felt incredibly freeing!!

I cannot do this back in good old rural-land USA. I think my sock dick would’ve been clocked and gotten me hatecrimed, but in the city there’s just beautiful apathy. This general experience did make me realize however, that when some suburban and urban queers talk about not needing to be loudly queer, or when some ‘allies’ say that there isn’t a need for pride anymore, that they might just be ignorant of the realities of being queer anywhere other than a city.

I’ve heard so many homophobic and transphobic comments from co-workers, folks at the grocery store, and random people in the middle of the street, and I am genuinely afraid sometimes that if I go too far outside my little Main Street that I might not make it back to my apartment. And all that is with just looking butch. For not performing femininity ‘correctly’.

No matter what random ass people on the internet say, we still need pride, because for every loving community, there are three more that would rather me burn at the stake than live to an old age. We still need pride, because for every supportive parent, there’s another that would rather kick their child out instead of letting them live authentically.

We need to celebrate queer joy because queer pain is almost universal in our community. We need parades with crowds of thousands to remind us that we are not alone.

Vague and mostly unhelpful instructions under break:

My 5am brain took over and I decided to recreate the August 2025 mail club stickers. Finished the Frankie tomagachi and now on to Vector! Close up and ref down below

let me know if you run into any issues, especially for the shijima version. Enjoy!

and if i said i think the flowers are representations of kris and their issues?