⚧passing beyond memory and into forgetting⚧

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I know the basic idea (we spin on days that they spin, rest on days they rest, there are teams (but you don't have to participate in a team), you can do challenge days)

I FINISHED IT! I KNIT A SWEATER FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER! YAY! so thrilled with the result and excited to knit more sweaters in the future. this was an incredibly satisfying project to work on. took a little over two months, would have taken less time if i hadn't freaked myself out and not worked on it for nearly three weeks because i was scared of picking up the stitches for the sleeves wrong. we live and learn.

Here is what the backside looks like. OP notes this takes more fabric than paper piecing, but that excess fabric makes it already triple-layered. Besides not needing backing fabric, I don't think you'd need batting for this quilt at all. It's already thick and soft just from folding all that fabric into a hexagon.

Each hexagon begins as a 6" circle. camelscrafts does this by creating a paper template using a compass. According to the video, a 6" circle will create a hexagon that is 2.5 inches tall.

These hexagons are hand-sewn. Thread the needle.

With the fabric right side facing, find the center of the circle by folding it in half right sides together, then folding it in half again (wrong sides are facing). The top of the triangle shape is the center of the fabric circle.

Make a small stitch into the center of the fabric. The wrong side is still facing.

Unfold the circle. There will be a small stitch in the center.

Now the hexagon is created by folding the circle into itself: With wrong side facing, take the needle to one of the edges of the fabric (it doesn't matter which one). Pull the needle through and pull the thread tight. This will fold down the fabric and create an edge of the hexagon. Crease the fold with your finger.

This fold has two corners, one at the top and one at the bottom. Put the needle into one of the corners and pull the thread taut. This will create another fold.

Continue this going around the circle until all of it is folded down, creating the hexagon. camelscrafts notes that the last corner pulled in may be a little bit "wonky" (no precise point in the corner) if the corners were not done precisely. However, that corner is pulled into the back, so is not visible from the front.

The hexagon is now formed. Sew around the folds in the middle of the circle to hold the folds in place. Tie off and cut the thread.

ἔνθα καὶ ἠματίη μὲν ὑφαίνεσκον μέγαν ἱστόν, νύκτας δ᾽ ἀλλύεσκον, ἐπεὶ δαΐδας παραθείμην.

Odyssey 19.149–150. Emily Wilson translation.

a weaving based on Dora Wheeler's "Penelope Unraveling Her Work at Night", which is one of my favorite works that looks woven but is actually embroidered. I wanted to try out deborah silver's split-shed weaving technique, so I chose polychrome taqueté with linen and cashmere. I maybe should have chosen an easier technique with fewer colors to start, but here we are! on the right side, I left the uppermost warp threads bare to show the unraveling.

reference below the cut:

For size I personally decide on my own rolags size depending on how fine I plan to spin the yarn. A rolag for a thick yarn will be much larger than a rolag for a fine yarn, mostly because if I'm spinning off the same rolag for several hours and multiple spinning sessions on a hand spindle then it's going to get messed up over time. And conversely if I'm going through a rolag super fast I don't want to join them more often than once a minute (and preferably more like every 2-3 minutes at most). So I tailor the size of the rolag to the width of the yarn.

Thus as a general rule an airy low micron count rolag should have more fiber than a dense high micron count rolag, in my opinion !

(Same with cotton punis--if I'm thickspinning them they're pretty big but if I'm spinning thread on a bird spindle I want the smallest possible puni because it's going to take forever and they get messed up very easily and then the thread quality suffers.)