i love you

The British army committed tons of mutilations during the massacres they committed in colonial times. Removing breasts and mutilating uteruses has been recorded before. In India, in Kenya etcetera.

It's silly to think Jack the Ripper was just some random blue-collar worker from Poland instead of a soldier who probably just came back from the Xhosa Wars, for example.

Not one true crime enthusiast wants to suggest that maybe the serial killer used to be an annihilator of an Indigenous tribe.

I always love the og zoot suits made by black americans in Harlem, I really like looking at the changes from these clothes from the 30s to some of the more exaggerated renditions from the 40s. It's also so interesting to look at how fast the subculture spread, and especially in the american west integrated with mexican diaspora and pachuco culture to the point that that's what a lot of usamericans associate them with.

⬆️ long wallet chains and pork pie hats were classic accessories for mexican diaspora zoot suiters. Zoot suits/their components were also really popular with women and were a way to symbolize independence and a choice to move away from strict gender roles on top of the existing countercultural message ⬇️

Anyways it's kind of impossible to talk about zoot suits without mentioning the racism and violence that followed them. On top of a zoot suit making someone a target for individual racial violence, the national reaction of white america to zoot suit culture was part of the beginning of clothing and presentation being read explicitly as signals by police and justice systems, and the broad association of youth of color with gang violence through this specific excuse. Gang culture and how it's percieved in the western US and especially California is very influenced by this era. The most famous events from the zoot suit era are the collective zoot suit riots and the media characterization of all mexican american, filipino american, and black american youth as violent anti-american baby gangsters. Which, even if that was broadly true I mean. I'll take the opportunity to be flippant hell yeah??

As a side note, while making more new zoot suits during war rationing was pretty sick, most people weren't buying from the black market tailor shops and just wore what they already owned because the style had been popular for years already. People bought clothes less often to begin with back then. I think that misconception comes from the reasoning white americans gave to go beat up people of color with baseball bats in the street; i.e. it was racial and xenophobic violence to begin with and the nature of the suits themselves has been mushed around a lot to serve different narratives.

More zoot suits! ⬇️

Dr. Alan Hart helped pioneer the use of chest X-rays to diagnose tuberculosis. Hart was married to a woman and practicing medicine in San Francisco in 1918 when he was outed as a trans man by a former colleague. Dr. Hart was chased out of town on the back of headlines like “Girl Poses as Male Doctor in Hospital" (he was not posing, of course) and spent much of his life moving from town to town to escape various forms of transphobia. Hart was also a novelist, and wrote of one of his characters, "When it came to outrunning gossip he found he couldn't do it," which was Hart's experience as well—he moved seven times in nine years all around the U.S. in search of safety, but it always proved fleeting. He did manage to get a graduate degree in radiology, though, and helped show how chest X-rays could show very early signs of tuberculosis, thus allowing patients the opportunity to rest and get adequate nutrition sooner, which contributed to better outcomes. Chest X-rays continue to be an essential diagnostic tool; mobile chest X-ray machines that can be carried via backpack now serve rural communities, so Hart's popularization of this diagnostic method continues to save lives.

While it's true that Hart was publicly outed once and moved all over the country for a while, by the time he died, he had served as the director of hospitalization and rehabilitation for the Connecticut State Tuberculosis Commission for over a decade. Nor was he exclusively hounded or excluded from society at home in Oregon, either -- there are regular mentions of him (under his chosen, male name, or occasionally simply as an "Albany man") and his second wife in his hometown newspaper, The Albany Democrat, throughout the 20s and 30s, reporting when they were in town for social visits, promoting his novels, and even reporting on his graduating from the University of Pennsylvania with his graduate degree. Nor does it seem most people saw him as a woman pretending to be a man for most of his life, despite the press his 1918 outing received -- a reviewer of one of his novels even once remarked that Dr. Hart, while a good writer, didn't seem to know much about women! (Having read a bit of Hart's fiction, I don't think this is true, but to each their own, I suppose)

I mention this because I think it's important to emphasize that trans people -- even trans people who have experienced dramatic setbacks in their lives, like Dr. Hart's 1918 outing -- have not only always existed, but always persisted through trouble and often managed to live very fulfilling lives that were not exclusively marred by transphobia. Nor did everyone around them feel that they were simply "posing" as their gender. Even in 1918, people in Hart's hometown expressed disgust at the way the press way treating the story, and the local newspaper did an exceptionally sympathetic interview with him that allowed him to express his own feelings on the situation and affirm that transitioning was the best choice he could have made! In fact, he was very clear he was not ashamed of his choices, saying:

Wanting something requires dopamine signaling, but liking something doesn’t.

If you have a mental illness/disorder that affects dopamine, you might feel that you don’t want to do the things that you like. You do still like them. You will appreciate having done them.

Let your likes guide you.

(If you want to read more, here’s one experimental paper about it. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5171207/ This theory called the incentive-sensitization theory was originally created to explain behaviors in addiction but can be applied elsewhere as well)