The Magic of the Black Mountain
At the very edge of Europe, tucked away between mighty peaks and still waters, lies a slice of paradise called Montenegro. Hearing of it many years ago, I decided to escape the decadence of the Occident on the wings of an eastern promise.
Because of its location, this tiny nation has been caught in the throes of revolution and counter-revolution since the very beginning. Kingdom, empire, vassal state. Orthodox, Ottoman, Yugoslav. This land has seen it all. And it is this wealth of experience, I reasoned, that has left it so nonchalant. So easy. So accepting of the ubiquitous juxtaposition of the grand and the ludicrous - the natural order of things...
Most of the old city destroyed by retreating Germans during World War II, Podgorica today is littered with the architectural leftovers of communism. Its position in a valley leaves it sweltering yet strangely pleasant. I spend my days wondering around, visiting the parks and churches, swimming in the icy river that rushes from the peaks behind the city. There I meet a man who regales me with tales of his adventures. His conquests. The places he’s seen. The women he’s loved. Curious about this, I ask him what line of work he is in. Trader? Seaman?
“I have prostitutes,” he exclaims.
Ah, so that’s what he meant by conquests. He then offers the use of his services to his new friend. I gently decline and carry on.
With no more than one hundred regular inhabitants, the seaside hamlet of Lepetani swells to accommodate many more during the summer. Luckily the majority of the holiday-makers are not yet pale Northerners in search of cheap escapism, but rather pale Serbians looking for fun in the sun. This makes all the difference to the energy about the place. It is self-admittedly a beacon of ’Balkan Style’.
All of the locals ooze the quirky wonder of the phenomenon: the photographer who opened his home to me. The cab driver who was so fascinated by my brown skin that she sent a photo of us to all her friends. The retired woman who followed me up the hill hysterically shouting “Arab! Arab!”. The mafioso-to-be who invited me to join his ranks. The drunken sailor who became my friend. The witch that smiled/sneered/laughed at me
I ended up willingly trapped, staying for almost a month, in a bout of what I now call the Lepetani syndrome. And what a blissful month it was…late brunches, lazy beach days, sundowners on the boat, balmy nights boogieing behind city walls…this was paradise at its best.
The Valley of a Thousand Peaks
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. And that laziness is only stress leaving the body. And that there’s a fine line between impressionism and well, not being bothered. So just enjoy the sunset. I did.