Just wanted to share a hanfu I completed recently!
It consists of four pieces: a long overcoat, a sheer pink inner coat, a solid pink top inside the inner coat, and a black mamianqun (pleated skirt). The overcoat has patterned cuffs and a patterned collar made out of the same fabric as the mamianqun (if you look closely, you can see the pattern on the collar and sleeve cuffs on the mamianqun itself). On the back of the coat, I hand-painted a dragon and phoenix that was based on the design of the front panel of the mamianqun. (I do Chinese painting and calligraphy, so I just used fabric paint and some Chinese painting techniques.) The sheer inner coat is made of a sheer pink fabric with blue bias tape finishings on its collar and sleeves. The pink top inside the collar has an embroidered collar (jiaolingyouren, closes on right as per traditional Chinese garments) and ties on the inside and outside (not visible here because they are covered by the skirt and by the shirt itself). The mamianqun arguably took me the longest to complete: it has seven front-facing pleats and seven back-facing pleats on each side, which took me way too long to iron lol. It has ties that wrap around the back and tie in the front. All fabric except from the pink and blue solid colors is from Taobao, and the bias tape is from Joanns.
This is a pretty untraditional combination of garments; I've seen the mamianqun worn primarily with a square-neck top (not sure what this is called, but I think it was from the Ming dynasty period?), and never with a top with a jiaolingyouren. I modified patterns from the book "Traditional and Modernized Hanfu Pattern Making" by TT Duong, which I highly recommend :) The entire project took a total of 30-40 hours (conservative estimate) and the fabric painting took 7 hours.
Overall I'm really proud of the entire project! I created this so that I could enter it into the Scholastic Art and Writing Awards under Fashion (I'm a high schooler) and I had a lot of fun making it :) I'm thinking of making a green one next!
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Now that you know about the names of different garments, what about the parts of each garment? There are so many confusing terms!!! I gotchu :>
When looking at hanfu and parts of hanfu, it can help to see how the garment is constructed. To do that, we have to look at the pattern of the garment. Sewing patterns are the templates that tell sewists how to cut their fabric into the shapes that are needed to make their clothes. Hanfu sewing patterns are fairly standard. They look roughly like this.
(blue = shoulder fold line // red = center front // green = center back)
To help you understand how this all comes together, when defining different parts of hanfu anatomy, I'll show it on the sketch above, and also on photos of people wearing hanfu, highlighted in green.
身/SHEN1/BODY
This refers to the body of the garment—the part that would cover your torso. Typically there are two pieces of cloth making up the body: one on the left and one on the right.
Once again, one of hanfu’s main defining characteristics is that traditionally, THE SAME PIECE OF FABRIC MAKES UP THE FRONT AND THE BACK. There is no shoulder seam separating the front and back of the garment.
袖/XIU4/SLEEVE
袖 means sleeve (in both technical and colloquial terms). There are many shapes that the sleeve can take: they can be narrow like normal clothing or they can be big and dramatic like the kind you see in cdramas. Like the body, there is no seam separating the front and back of the sleeve—the sleeve piece is draped over the arm and sewn together at the bottom. Another important characteristic is that the sleeves are joined to the body at the bicep or elbow area, NOT at the shoulder. (Short or half-sleeve tops might not have a separate sleeve piece.)
領/领/LING3/COLLAR
領 means collar (in both technical and colloquial terms). This can refer to two things: one, the general shape of the neck area (round, square, standing, cross etc.) and the actual strip of fabric that is attached at the neck to form the collar.
襟/JIN1/LAPEL
This can be translated as collar or lapel; I choose to say lapel to distinguish it from 領. This refers to the area where an open-front top would open. It’ll look different based on the collar type—generally a 對襟/对襟/dui4 jin1/parallel collar top’s jin coincides with the front centerline.
With a 交領/交领/jiao1 ling3/cross-collar top, however, it would coincide with the outer edge of the collar. (Will have a more detailed post about this later.)
下擺/下摆/XIA4 BAI3/HEMLINE
Refers to the bottom hem of the garment. 下 means down/bottom. Note that 擺 can refer to different things in different contexts. If you see someone talk about the 下擺 of a top, they’re talking about this bit.
The following terms only apply to a subsection of hanfu tops and may have fewer images as a result.
衽/REN4/LAPEL EXTENSION
This one is a little harder to translate. Applies to non-parallel lapel tops like cross collar, diagonal-lapel standing collar, and overlapping round collar garments. It’s an extension of the BODY piece on the front, sewn to the vertical center front seam, that overlaps over the other side. (Will have a more detailed post about this later.)
衩/CHA4/VENT
Also called vents or slits—an optional open slit, usually made on each side of a longer shirt or robe, to allow for ease of movement. Might be combined with the word 開/开/kai1/open to form the phrase 開衩/开衩/kai1 cha4/open slit. Mostly applies to longer robes or tops, where the length reaches the knee, so that you don’t have issues with walking.
襴/LAN2/WAIST EXTENSION
Also a little harder to translate. This only applies to 襦/ru2/Ru tops and 襴衫/襕衫/lan2 shan1/Lanshan robes, plus some varieties that were derived off of those two. The 襴/襕/lan2 is an extra rectangle of fabric appended to the bottom of a shirt/top to extend its length. It can be made of a contrasting fabric or the same fabric, and often has pleats on the sides to allow for movement. (Will have a more detailed post about this later.)
緣/缘/YUAN2/TRIM
Refers to the trim or decorative contrasting bits on a piece of clothing. Specific location goes in front of the character. For example, 袖缘 means sleeve trim, aka the cuff. Some specific trims might have their own special names but that’s for another post.
me: yeah so a few years ago someone invented infinite scrolling and really it was a terrible idea
the elf I just hooked up with, taking the lavender and honeysuckle lollipop from their mouth: An infinite scroll... most elfmaidens learn to enchant a scroll to never end before they're a mere 300 years old. It saves on paper.
me: oh see that's just writing, with social media it's really bad, it just leads to people doomscrolling all day
the elf I just hooked up with, spluttering and panicked: The Doomscroll! Be silent human, thou shoulds't not speak the name of that fell parchment
The doodle was initial sketch and then I went for first aradia pass but I felt it was too similar that hot demon lady comic with the white blob guy comic hairstyle. Can’t remember the name.I know I could fix some things but my eyes are doing the Zoloft blurry sideeffect so I’m sending it off u_u
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my mom told me this story tonight about my grandfather. she said when he was a little boy he was afraid robbers would break into his house in the middle of the night and try to abduct him out of his bed. he thought that they would be able to feel that he was the shape of a little boy under the covers and know to grab him. so he would try to fall asleep in the shape of a letter of the alphabet. so that they would feel for him and be like "oh it's just the letter R, not a kidnappable child"
Here's something I think is fun - what do you most associate with all of the letters of the alphabet in math? It doesn't really matter if you think of the letters as being uppercase or lowercase. Here's what I think:
a, b - the Pythagorean Theorem
c - a scalar
d - differentiation
e - Euler's number
f, g, h - functions
i - the imaginary number
j - a quaternion
k - a scalar, but specifically when it's an integer
L - the Laplace transformation of a function
m, n - variables, but specifically when they're integers
So I'm trying to make folk linen pants from sowing to sewing.
Second post (here's first)
It's been about 60 days since sowing (it's 22nd of June). It's looking so pretty and started blooming about 55th day. I've been watering it one or two wheelbarrows of every 2 weeks, which I thought would be too little but it's growing pretty good. It's still not that high (about over the knee) and I doubt it'll get much higher sadly. That means lower grade of fibers but whatever. It'll be fine.
Every now and again there are parts laying down and I've been seeing some hares running about so they probably hide in it tramping down the plants. But it gets up no problem so all good. Maybe next time I'll put up a little fence around it.
Also idk when should I harvest it bc all the info is about oil flax, not textile flax, and even then it's contradictory sometimes. But either way it's around 100-120th day, so we're still only halfway.
Next up I need to start thinking about scuthing it, and it requires some equipment. But it's easy enough to build on my own probably. It should be something like this flax-brake:
And then this kind of metal comb, which I'll make just by densly putting nails in a blank:
So yeah, that's the plans for the near future. Here's a bonus flax video if you stayed till the end ❤️
honestly so glad they pulled that terrible move because it's gonna get me to leave here <3
still gonna be moving to rss so im gonna follow artists i like but i will . not be active on here hopefully going forward. ill be on my site on neoc primarily if you want to follow the things i do! <3
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content aggregator blogs that just comment with three flower emojis and somehow rack up thousands more notes than OP. 16-22 year old fandom artists putting COMMENTERS DNI in their bio and COMMENT IN TAGS at the bottom of their posts. hapless i-check-tumblr-once-a-week users commenting on a reblog and getting their inboxes full of scolding. people making multiple single-posts instead of reblogging their own posts to continue a thought.
the culture of this place is gonna get so fucked. PVP enabled website.
The reblog chain is one of the things that makes Tumblr unlike anywhere else. All the notes on reblogs are attributed to the original post, no matter which branch people actually liked or reblogged. We want to keep encouraging conversations, and give contributors the recognition they deserve.
Soon, you'll be able to like, reblog, or reply to any part of a reblog chain, and that note will go to that reblog's author. Each reblog will have its own counts, instead of one aggregated number from every version of the post. And yes, you’ll be able to like multiple posts in one chain.
If a reblog doesn't add anything, the love flows up to the last person in the chain who did. Your post doesn't lose notes just because people spread it quietly.
Past notes will stay on the original post — we're only changing what happens from here on out. Retroactively re-attributing all of them would be... a lot.
This is just the beginning. More changes are coming as we keep building this out – stay tuned!
It’s very clear that you all have strong feelings about Tumblr and about this change. We hear you. The passion people have for how Tumblr works is one of the things that makes this place special.
As this rolls out over the next few days and you explore it, we’ll keep reading your replies and reblogs, so please keep sharing your questions, concerns, and ideas.
Your creativity has always been the heart of Tumblr, whether you’re the original poster or adding something brilliant in the reblogs, and nothing about this change is meant to limit that.
If you’d like to talk directly beyond the comments, leave a reply and we’ll follow up with as many of you as we can. We want to work with you to make Tumblr better.
Under the new post model, flagging a thread's root post as non-rebloggable affects only the root post and any reblogs without comments; reblogs with comments which were made before the root post was made non-rebloggable now remain rebloggable, regardless of the root post's settings.
Further, there doesn't seem to be any mechanism at all for flagging a reblog with comments as non-rebloggable, not even by the reblog's own author; the upshot is that any post that's been reblogged with a comment even once effectively cannot be made non-rebloggable at all.
Between this and rendering nearly all non-first-order reblogs with comments undiscoverable to the author of the original post, I imagine harassment campaigns are going to have a field day!
Griping continues: I LOVE when I find a post that so deeply resonates with me and I have a deep and genuine "Amazing post OP! Yes and yes and yes and--" and now I can't "Yes and" without stealing ALL the note engagement from my reblog onward??
No more engaging with OP? No more building up a communal post? No more stupid funny back-and-forth posts without bearing the stink that every person commenting is stealing the notes and the tags and compliments and the thoughts?
I have to shut up on everyone else's posts now. You all have to shut up on mine. I hate that!!! I like to talk and I like when yall fucking talk to me.
Everyone mumble in the tags forever I guess. Anyone who adds a comment unthinkingly gets shot in the street.
And like. One or the other has to win, right, if they do this? Either it's "No Reblog Chains Forever" or "Wanton Note Stealing Forever." Which one sucks less? Is it sadder to kill all conversation before it happens out of respect and consideration, or to go "Ah OP I love this post and have all these thoughts to tell you. Sorry that doing this is stealing the notes. Sorry. I wish it wasn't."
Do you just create a website of split opinions? Commenters who are wincing while doing it but genuinely want to express community and engagement, and OPs watching them with hostile disdain for stealing the fucking post?
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