Zoomology Explores the World

These photos are of the alpine sundew, Drosera stenopetala. There are only two species of alpine sundew in New Zealand. We took them during our volunteering trip to Whenua Hou. #droserastenopetala #whenuahou

A blog post by Emma Sundews (Genus: Drosera) The name ‘Drosera‘ comes from the Greek ‘drosos‘ meaning ‘dew’ or ‘dewdrops’. They are one of the largest genera of carnivorous plants in the world. Like all members of their family (Droseraceae), they lure, capture, and digest insects using a thick, gluey substance called mucilage which they have on stalks covering their leaves. The insects are…

A blog post by Emma Lockdown 2020 In March last year, New Zealand was in its first lockdown because of COVID-19. Tom and I had been due to head back to England but couldn’t. We were lucky enough to have work we could do from home (I had a lab set up in our garage for my NZ work and Tom had UK desk-based work). In our free time, we also had a long list of projects and renos to occupy us, as well…

The genus Mohoua is a small group of three birds species endemic to New Zealand: the pīpipi/brown tree creeper (Mohoua novaeseelandiae), the pōpokotea/whitehead (Mohoua albicilla) and, the subject of this post, the mōhua/yellowhead (Mohoua ochrocephala).

Emma and I have had encounters with pīpipi and pōpokoteabefore but, until visiting Whenua Hou, the mōhua had eluded us. All three species…

Kākāpō: New Zealand’s Flightless “Owl” Parrot

For two weeks over the New Zealand 2018/2019 summer, Tom and I volunteered with kākāpō on Whenua Hou Island. You can read about the trip and some of the other species we encountered in our blog post, here.

Whilst we were on the island, we were extremely lucky to have a couple of kākāpō sightings. We also saw plenty of kākāpō sign. Today, we want to introduce you to this charismatic critter…

Volunteering with Kākāpō on Whenua Hou Island

Parenthood, work and life have been keeping us very busy. So much so that it has taken a pandemic and a countrywide lockdown to get Tom and I back in front of the computer again! We hope that everyone is keeping safe. We are well, but it looks like we’ll be spending the next year here in New Zealand and missing this year’s UK ecology season, but that is for the best. How are you all doing?

Thi…

Taiaroa Head and the Northern Royal Albatross

In November last year, on our way down the South Island, New Zealand, we stopped at Taiaroa Head Nature Reserve. Taiaroa Head/Pukekura is especially known for its northern royal albatross colony, the only mainland colony of albatross in the Southern Hemisphere.

Northern Royal Albatross (Diomedea sanfordi) Click to zoom in Taiaroa Head Nature Reserve

Taiaroa Head Nature Reserve…

Long time, no see! We thought it was about time to say 'hello' again after not being around for the best part of a year. A lot has happened whilst we've been away, and we'd like to share some of these exciting events with you. #theadventurescontinue

We thought it was about time to say ‘hello’ again after not being around for the best part of a year. A lot has happened whilst we’ve been away, and we’d like to share some of these exciting events with you.

Since our last post, we’ve made our annual migration from the UK to New Zealand and back again. We have been as busy as anything with work, volunteering and our most recent…

With a steady hand, a few small British coins as a size reference and the aid of my macro lens, I was able to get a little closer. Sure enough, I had been sharing my shower with a pseudoscorpion.

Click to zoom in

What are pseudoscorpions?

Pseudoscorpions are arachnids (this class of animals also includes spiders, ticks, true scorpions)

They belong to the order Pseudoscorpiones

They have flat, pear-shaped bodies, and pincers

They don’t have a tail like their true scorpion cousins

They are very small, ranging in size from 2-8mm

How many species of pseudoscorpion are there?

There are more than 3,300 different species of pseudoscorpion known across 430 genera, and they are found all over the globe

In Britain, there are known to be 27 different species, 12 of which are quite common

How long have pseudoscorpions been around?

The oldest known fossil pseudoscorpion dates back 380 million years to the Devonian period and has changed very little over this period closely resembling today’s pseduoscorpions in morphology

Are pseudoscorpions dangerous?

No, not unless you are a springtail, mite or other tiny invertebrate prey!

They are actually very beneficial, not only as integral parts of the ecosystem, but also because they eat clothes moth larvae, carpet beetle larvae, ants, mites, small flies and booklice that may enter your house

How do they capture their prey?

Pseudoscorpions catch their prey with their pincers before injecting paralysing venom and then digestive fluids

They then suck out the liquefied tissues much like a spider would

Unlike spiders who have their venom glands in their mouth parts and scorpions who have their venom glands in their tails, pseudoscorpions have their venom glands in the mobile finger of their pincers

Where can I find a pseudoscorpion?

Species have been found under tree bark and in tree hollows, beneath leaf and pine litter, within soil and under stones, in caves and at the seashore

Chelifer cancroides is the species most commonly found in peoples homes in the UK. This species is known as a book scorpion and is associated with dusty books where they prey on booklice and dust mites

Did you know…

Pseudoscorpions can spin silk from their jaws to make disk shaped cocoons for mating, moulting and waiting out cold weather

The young pseudoscorpions ride on the mother’s back for a short while after hatching

Some species are phoretic, meaning they grab a hold of a larger, sometimes flying host, and can hitch a ride!

Would you like to read about another of our Arachnid adventures?

Check out these blog posts.

A polkadot jumping spider in New Zealand:

An amazing spider mimicking an ant in Borneo:

A tarantula with iridescent ‘toes’:

References and Further Reading

Buglife Website – Pseudoscorpions – https://www.buglife.org.uk/bugs-and-habitats/pseudoscorpions (Retrieved 19 September, 2018)

UK Safari Website – Psuedoscorpions – http://www.uksafari.com/pseudoscorpions.htm (Retrieved 19 September, 2018)

British Naturalist Association Website – Psuedoscorpions – http://www.bna-naturalists.org/guide10.pdf (Retrieved 19 September, 2018)

After a dawn bat survey at the end of May this year, we stopped by Portbury Wharf Nature Reserve for a stroll. The early morning is a wonderful time to watch wildlife with the dawn light bringing out the best the landscape. We had gone there to see the birds, but this bee orchid caught our eye.

Click to zoom in

We’ve been hoping to see one for a long time now. We’d even driven out to locations specifically to see them, but had never had any luck. Sometimes what you’re looking for comes when you’re not looking at all!

The Bee Orchid (Ophrys apifera)

Order: Asparagales Family: Orchidaceae Genus: Ophrys Species: O. apifera

Where does the bee orchid get its name from?

The name “Ophrys” comes from the Greek word ophrys, meaning “eyebrow”. The Latin species name “apifera” means “bee-bearing” or “bee-bringing” and refers to the bee-shaped lip of the orchid.

What does it look like?

The bee orchid (Ophrys apifera) is a hardy flower, growing to a height of 15–50 centimetres (6–20 in). It is variable in the pattern of its coloration, but usually brownish-red with yellow markings.

Click to zoom in

When does it flower?

In the Autumn, it develops small rosettes of leaves. They continue to grow slowly during winter. It then blooms during Spring and Summer from mid-April to July producing a spike with one to twelve flowers.

Where is it found?

It is widespread across central and southern Europe, as well as North Africa and the Middle East. Its range stretches from Portugal, Ireland and Denmark east to Iran and the Caucasus.

It is quite common in the Mediterranean region eastwards to the Black Sea, but is less common in its northern range being uncommon or local in Germany and Ireland. In the UK, it has a distinct southeastern preference, being more common in England (where we observed our specimen).

Click to zoom in

What kind of habitat does it live in?

It generally grows on semi-dry turf, in grassland, on limestone, calcareous dunes or in open areas in woodland. It prefers calcareous soils, in bright light or dim light. It is a major coloniser of old quarries and roadside verges.

Click to zoom in

How does it reproduce?

Ophrys apifera is the only species of the genus Ophrys which prefers to practice self-pollination. “Self-pollination” is when a flower is pollinated by pollen from the same flower or from another flower on the same plant. The flowers are almost exclusively self-pollinating in the northern ranges of the plant’s distribution, including the UK.

A Case of Mistaken Identity

In the Mediterranean area, however, the orchid is pollinated by the solitary bee, Eucera. In this case the plant attracts the bee by producing a scent that mimics the scent of the female. The lip of the flower also acts as a decoy which makes the male bee confuse it for a female. Pollen transfer occurs during the ensuing pseudocopulation (when the male attempts to mate with the flower). This is known as reproductive mimicry.

The Natural History Mueseum has a great video here talking about the mechanics of Ophrys apifera pollination and British specimens. You can watch it here:

To see pseudocopulation in action, see this dated yet very charming video clip from nature cinematographer, Doron Hirshberg, from his 1987 BBC production, “Symphony of Magic: The Wild Orchids in Israel”.

It was such a treat for Tom and I to spot these bee orchids. Nature never ceases to surprise us! In fact, we definitely have a soft spot for all orchids and their multitude of forms. We have written about some of our other orchid-adventures previously on our blog.

Want to Check Out Another Zoomology Orchid Adventure?

See this blog post in which Tom shares his experience surveying New Zealand’s critically endangered Greenhood Orchid:

Check out this blog post in which we see how many British orchids we can find and photograph on a roadside verge in England:

References and Further Reading

The Guardian – The Bee Orchid: Natures Mimic – How to grown a bee orchid in your lawn. – https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/jul/26/bee-orchid-lawns (Retrieved 23 August, 2018)

Online Atlas of the British and Irish Flora – Bee Orchid – https://www.brc.ac.uk/plantatlas/plant/ophrys-apifera (Retrieved 11 August, 2018)

Plantlife – Bee Orchid – https://www.plantlife.org.uk/uk/discover-wild-plants-nature/plant-fungi-species/bee-orchid (Retrieved 11 August, 2018)

Wildflower Finder – Bee Orchid – http://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/O/Orchid%28Bee%29/Orchid%28Bee%29.htm (Retrieved 11 August, 2018)

The Wildlife Trusts – Bee Orchid – https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/bee-orchid (Retrieved 11 August, 2018)

Although Emma and I enjoy going on the hunt to find wildlife, sometimes wildlife just comes to us. In a previous blog post we shared our experience of finding a green woodpecker at the bottom of the garden and then a later experience meeting his family (see here and here). Our attention was captured by their calls which set us off down the garden to investigate.  For the fox, the same was true.

What Does the Fox Say?

As a child, I would often hear from my bedroom window haunting sounds echoing through the night. We now spend a lot of our time working at night out in the field and have become accustomed to this strange and ghostly cry. The sound is, of course, the call of a red fox.

Early one morning after hearing these calls all night, I reached for the long lens and was surprised to see a beautiful red fox sitting slap bang in the middle of a field staring straight back at me.

Click to zoom in

Getting the Fox Shot

With our house high on a hill and our bedroom window looking out over the same fields below our garden, we had a good vantage point to keep watch. Every available morning and evening we kept a look out and regularly saw not one but three foxes. One seemed to be the vixen and generally vanished as soon as I opened the back door, but two young foxes (presumable her rapidly growing cubs) were a little less wary of my presence. In saying that, they always spotted me and darted for the dense hedgerow before I could get the portrait I wanted.

Over a few evenings of trying, I was able to get closer and closer.

Click to zoom in

One evening, we noticed the two young foxes sleeping out in the open. With camera in hand I ventured out. I kept low and crept closer, using the tall grass and hedgerow as cover.

One of the cubs suddenly noticed me and made a dash for the far wooded area leaving the second fox behind.

Click to zoom in

Despite being confused as to why his/her sibling had upped and left, the remaining cub yawned and settled back down.

Eventually, its ears twitched and its nose shot up. The cub knew something wasn’t quite right. It sat up and stared at me. I was probably 10-15 metres away. For some time I watched hidden behind my giant lens. It was great to see the expressions change on the little one’s face as slight confusion and bafflement turned to complete surprise. Within a instant of realising what I was, he/she hot-tailed it after that sibling.

Click to zoom in

A Few Fox Facts

Where are they found?

Red foxes (Vulpes vulpes) are native to Britain

They are the largest of the true foxes and the most widespread

Forty-six subspecies are currently recognised

These subspecies can be divided in the large northern foxes, and the small southern foxes of Asia and North Africa

What are they called?

Female foxes are known as vixens, males are known as dog foxes and young are known as kits, cubs or pups

A group of foxes is known as a skulk or a leash

When are they active?

Foxes are mostly active at dusk and throughout the night

What do they eat?

Red foxes are omnivores as well as scavengers and eat almost anything ranging from insects, earthworms, fruit and berries, birds, small mammals, carrion and scraps left by humans

Click to zoom in

Where do they live?

Red foxes live in a den or an ‘earth’ (an burrow underground) especially during breeding season

Outside the breeding season, most red foxes prefer to live in densely vegetated areas out in the open, although they may use burrows to escape bad weather

They either establish a stable home range within a particular area, or are itinerant (travel from place to place) with no fixed home

They use their urine to mark these territories

What are their breeding habits?

Foxes are often found in small groups which can consist of a mated pair and their young

The young of the mated pair may remain with their parents to assist in caring for new kits

The mating season is between December and February

Why don’t some people like foxes?

Red foxes are very adaptable and have actually expanded their range alongside humans – urban foxes are now a common sight

Partly because of this some people feel strongly that foxes are pests

To avoid negative interactions with foxes councils advice:

Lock up small outdoor pets, such as rabbits and guinea pigs

Pick up fallen fruit

Secure your household waste in wheelie bins

Block areas under garden shed, garages etc in which foxes can form dens

Have suitable fences and housing for poultry

To be honest, Emma and I would absolutely LOVE it if the foxes moved in!

Click to zoom in

Fantastic Mr. Fox and Friends

If you love foxes as much as we do, you may recognise some of these children’s stories: Roald Dahl’s ‘Fantastic Mr. Fox’ and Beatrix Potter’s ‘The Tale of Mr. Tod’. Another one of our favourites is Collin Dann’s ‘Animals of Farthing Wood’ series which you see below.

Do you have any other favourite foxes? Let us know in the comments below!

References and Further Reading

British Wildlife Centre , Fox – https://www.britishwildlifecentre.co.uk/planyourvisit/animals/fox.html (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

Fox Project Website, Foxy facts for children – http://foxproject.org.uk/foxy-facts-for-children/ (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

International Fund for Animal Welfare, Foxes in the UK – https://www.ifaw.org/united-kingdom/our-work/foxes/fox-facts-uk (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

RSPB Website, Fox – https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/wildlife-guides/other-garden-wildlife/mammals/fox/#kzIDTBpBMVTihuzt.99 (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

Sounds Website, Vilpes vulpes – https://sounds.bl.uk/Environment/British-wildlife-recordings/022M-W1CDR0001493-0900V0#_ (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

Wikipedia Website, Red Fox – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_fox (Retrieved 05 August, 2018)

We were only in the national park for a few days, but my camera was firing off shots left right and centre the entire time. Since returning to the UK, we have been crazily busy with ecological surveys, but I (not Emma as she is working away for the week) now have some down time which has enabled me to do some sifting, culling, editing and posting.

Birds of a Feather

In 2006, the number of different bird species recorded by birdwatchers and conservationists came to 544 in Chitwan National Park. These 544 species include about two-thirds of Nepal’s globally threatened species. Out of all the other protected areas in Nepal, Chiwan National Park has the greatest diversity of bird species.

A Few Feathered Faces

Below are a collection of photographs highlighting the variety of birds we managed to photograph on the trip. This is only a small sample of those we actually came across as many were too speedy or hidden to photograph.

I have done my best to identify each of the birds below. Our wonderful guides identified them the majority of them while we were in the field (Note to self: take a pen and paper next time) and our tour operator who also is a local guide (Chandra Mani Gauli) has since helped with some of the identification.

  Click to zoom in and take a closer look.

Personal Favourites

Hornbills

I have been lucky enough to photograph Rhinoceros Hornbill while trekking in Endau-Rompin National Park but haven’t had the opportunity to photograph other hornbills until now. Within the first hour of our Jungle experience a great hornbill flew right over the top of our canoe as we made our way down river. And, on the last day an hour before reaching the bus that would take us back to Kathmandu, we stumbled across an oriental-pied hornbill foraging in the trees.

  Click to zoom in

Owls

As we were only allowed to trek the jungle during daylight hours (for safety reasons), our expectations for seeing nocturnal bird species were very low. To our surprise (and his), our guide spotted this Indian scops owl basking in the sun just outside of its tree hollow. It’s camouflage was impeccable. Before I could take two steps closer in order to secure better shots, its shimmied back down into the hollow. Later in the day’s walk, I spotted this tiny barred jungle owlet resting high up on a tree branch.

  Click to zoom in

Kingfishers

When it comes to kingfishers, I have always been intrigued by their fishing prowess. I have always wanted to photograph the European kingfisher in the UK, but have only seen glimpses of them as they flash past me. Interestingly, I managed to get my first image and good viewing of one on this trip to Nepal. Emma and I have come across white-throated kingfishers and stork-billed kingfishers on previous adventures in Southeast Asia, but seeing pied kingfishers was a first.

  Click to zoom in

Asian Paradise Fly-catcher

Perhaps the most intriguing of birds we saw was this male paradise fly-catcher. Again, we had not long been in the canoe when the white bird began flitting from branch to branch with these extremely long streamers flowing in its wake.

Click to zoom in

‘Eely Hungry’ so I will have ‘Fish for Darter’

Awful dad style titles, I know, but I could help myself. While making our way down the river we had two encounters with birds fighting with food.

Click to zoom in

Onwards to the UK

With our trip to Nepal now over, it was time to hop on a plane once again and head for London. If anyone has any questions about our wildlife adventure in Nepal please send us a message, or comment below. We would like to thank our guides and United Jungle Guide Service once again for a wonderful trip.

Our next blog posts will encompass some of our encounters while working in ecology back in England. Stay tuned.

References and Further Reading

Bird Forum Website, Royal Chitwan National Park – https://www.birdforum.net/opus/Royal_Chitwan_National_Park (Retrieved 17 July, 2018)

Chitwan National Park Website, Biodiversity –https://www.chitwannationalpark.gov.np/index.php/biodiversity (Retrieved 17 July, 2018)

Wikipedia Website, Chitwan National Park – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chitwan_National_Park (Retrieved 17 July, 2018)

The Bull in the China Shop

The rhino-excitement started as soon as we arrived in Sauraha, one of the towns where we stayed on the edge of Chitwan National Park, Nepal (blog here). We decided to take an evening stroll before dinner down near the river.

We soon stumbled upon a gaggle of people watching a young bull rhino leisurely browsing on the vegetation between the street and the water.  The rhino didn’t seem to mind all the attention, and happily continued munching away whilst we watched in awe. A local man told us that this particular rhino had been injured as calf, so had been hand-reared and subsequently released back into the wild. Although he is free, his familiarity with humans meant that he has never strayed far from the town.

Click to zoom in

Whether or not he didn’t notice or just didn’t care, the young bull ended up wandering quite close to a group of tourists waiting to board canoes on the river. There were a few shrieks from the startled tourists and people began clambering to get out of the way. This commotion then in turn startled the poor rhino who decided he needed to get away, quick. Unfortunately, the path of least resistance was up the track which joined the street!

Click to zoom in

Once on the street, the rhino didn’t know which way to turn with people both left and right scrambling about running into shops yelling and laughing. Our local acquaintance said that this wasn’t the first time it had happened.  Eventually, the rhino came jogging back down the street and then took one of the little snickets which led back into the vegetation. No sooner had he entered the long grass, he started grazing again. Phew! We both felt very relieved that no-one had been inadvertently trampled, and that our young rhino friend was safely back where he belonged filling his belly.

Click to zoom in

Before we continue, we should really give you an introduction to our real-life curvy unicorn and his family. Check out the Fact-File below.

Fact-File

Known as: Indian Rhinoceros, Greater One-horned Rhinoceros, Great Indian Rhinoceros Population: There are approximately 3,500 individuals living in the wild as of 2015. At there lowest point in the 1900s, their total population was less 200.

Conservation Status:  Vulnerable (IUCN Red List)

Distribution: Currently there are only a few subpopulations in Nepal and India. The species is confined to fewer than ten sites, with a total extent of occurrence of less than 20,000 km². You can see just how restricted their distribution currently is when you consider that they once ranged throughout the entire stretch of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, a whopping 2,550,000 km².

Biology: It is estimated that they live for around 30-45 years. The gestation length is approximately 16 months. The age at which they reach sexual maturity is estimated at 5-7 years for females and 10 years for males.

Threats: The primary cause of their decline was the widespread conversion of alluvial plains grasslands (the rhinos primary habitat) to agricultural development, which led to human-rhino conflicts and easier accessibility for hunters. This hunting was an important factor in their historical decline, hunted for sport by both Asians and Europeans. Although hunting is now banned, poachers killing rhinos for their horn is still a serious threat, as is the continued habitat loss and habitat degradation.

Our First Glimpse of a Rhino in the Wild

The following day, we headed into Chitwan National Park on a two-night trek. Although we had seen the semi-tame young rhino in town, neither of us had ever seen a rhino in the wild before. First of all, we found some evidence the rhinos had left behind.

Tom examining the evidence. 🙂

Rhino footprints in the sand.

Click to zoom in

Then not long into our hike, we spotted one in the flesh of in the distance.

Click to zoom in

With Tom looking through his long lens and me honing in on the large creature with my binos, we had just spotted our first wild rhino!

Click to zoom in

A Encounter of the Almost-Too-Close Kind

A while later, we spotted these two rhinos grazing on the jungle track just down the slope from us. Tom managed to snap these lovely up-close shots. Aren’t they gorgeous animals? There’s something about those fluffy ears following you that makes them very endearing.

  Click to zoom in

Now, we’d been instructed at the beginning of the trek by our guides that if a rhino ever charged at us, we’d have to quickly run to the nearest tree. Apparently during treks this does happen on the rare occasion because we’re using the same well-worn tracks that all the animals of the jungle use. We hoped we wouldn’t have to put this method into practice, but it always pays to be prepared…

  Click to zoom in

We started walking away from the two rhinos, but they were disturbed by our movement and started jogging along a parallel track which ended up converging on the same track ahead of us. We could see the rhinos deliberating whether or not to run towards us, or just to take a perpendicular track. We inched towards suitable trees as silently as we could (if they charge at you, the aim is to always stay on the opposite side of the trunk because they can’t make sharp turns). Luckily for us, the rhinos chose not to have a face-off. An almost-too-close encounter it was indeed!

Wallowing in the Water

  Click to zoom in

The last rhino encounter we photographed was seen at the jungle tower we slept in on our second night. From the river bank below, we had a perfect view of where this particular rhino liked to come and wallow to escape the heat of the day.

Click to zoom in

The heat was sweltering, with high humidity and temperatures approaching 40°C. Tom and I would have joined him if we didn’t think we’d be snatched by march mugger crocodiles.

Click to zoom in

It was such treat getting to be amongst these guys doing their thing in the wild, and it was a certainly a sight neither of us ever thought we’d get to see with our own eyes. It is well worth supporting ecotourism in these areas. With the rhinos bringing in tourists and money, the drive to conserve and grow their populations only increases.

Many thanks to our wonderful guides at United Jungle Services. Until next time, Chitwan National Park!

  Click to zoom in

References and Further Reading

IUCN Red List – Rhinoceros unicornis – http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/19496/0 (Retrieved 14 July, 2018)

WWF Global – Greater One-horned Rhino – http://wwf.panda.org/knowledge_hub/endangered_species/rhinoceros/asian_rhinos/indian_rhinoceros/ (Retrieved 14 July, 2018)

The species we are going to introduce in this post is the gharial (Gavialis gangeticus), also known as the gavial or fish-eating crocodile. The gharial is a type of crocodilian native to the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. With accurate population estimates difficult come by, and with different sources quoting different estimates, the most optimistic (yet still extremely bleak) figure of global mature wild individuals surviving today is approximately 550. Only 10-20% of these are found in Nepal. After reading this, our initial thoughts were, “We’re definitely not going to be seeing a gharial then…”

Gharial once inhabited all the major river systems throughout the Indian subcontinent ranging from Pakistan to Myanmar. Their distribution is now restricted to just 2% of their former range (along the Chambal, Girwa, and Son rivers of India and along the Narayani River of Nepal). The habitat type in which they are found is that of flowing rivers rich with fish and steep sand banks on which they bask and build nests for their eggs.

Our First Sightings

Click to zoom in

The first part of our two day trek in the jungle began with a canoe ride. Once in the canoe, our friendly guides pointed out that three crocodilians can be found within Chitwan National park: the salt water crocodile, the marsh mugger crocodile, and the infamous gharial.

Marsh Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris)

On the first bend, we came across our first marsh mugger.

Click to zoom in

This sighting was soon followed by another in which we were able to get much closer.

Click to zoom in

Despite my initial thoughts (and perhaps yours) they are not called ‘marsh muggers’ because of their insatiable habit of mugging humans from the banks (however, this is something that has been reported), but the word ‘mugger’ is actually derived from magar, the Hindi word for “crocodile”.

Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus)

We were lucky enough to see several gharial. Despite the number of individuals being so low and their distribution so restricted, Chitwan is actually one of the last places where they can be semi-reliably seen in the wild.

We were both struck by their huge size and their prehistoric dinosaur-like appearance, especially with their jagged dorsal tail scales and their armour-plated skin.

Click to zoom in

Population Size and Threats

Many threats to gharial and its natural habitat led to localised extinctions from Bhutan, Burma and Pakistan and Bangladesh.

Factors responsible for decreasing gharial populations are water course adjustments and dam construction, pollution, habitat destruction and decline in food quality & quantity.

Global populations declined from 5,000-10,000 individuals in the 1940s to fewer than 200 in 1975, the year they were finally protected.

 In 2006 the population estimates for adult Gharial were ~200 in India and ~35 in Nepal.

Click to zoom in

Between November 2007 and March 2008, more than 100 dead gharials washed up on the banks of India’s Chambal River, severely knocking the already tiny population. Scientist believe the likely cause was from exposure to toxic chemicals in nearby polluted rivers resulting in gout and kidney failure.

In 2008, the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation (DNPWC) and World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Nepal held a Gharial census resulting in an estimated population of 81 individuals.

As of 2017, the most optimistic global population estimate is approximately 550 mature adult individuals.

Click to zoom in

Gharial  Facts

They have the narrowest snout of any crocodialian.

They are one of the largest of all crocodilian species.

They produce the largest eggs of all crocodilians.

Their common name, gharial, is actually a misspelling of the Hindi word ‘ghariyal’.

Adult males develop a bulbous nasal appendage which resembles an Indian pot called a ‘ghara’. This is what the Hindi word ‘ghariyal’ refers to. They use this appendage as a resonating chamber and make buzzing calls and to blow bubbles during mating rituals.

Click to zoom in

The gharial is the only living crocodilian that is visibly sexually dimorphic, as females lack the bulbous nasal appendage.

Males are also considerably larger than females. Some extremes have been documented with males being 21 ft in length.

Males form harems, in which they guard a group of females.

Gharial are considered by some to be the most aquatic of all crocodilians.

Their diets consist of mainly fish. Their specialised narrow snout aids in the reduction of water resistance meaning it is capable of snapping shut at lightning speeds.

Click to zoom in

In a while, Crocodile.

With government protection of the species and its remaining habitat, ongoing research, captive breeding programs and better public understanding, there may be hope yet for these fascinating creatures. Although this was our first encounter, we hope that it won’t be our last.

Click to zoom in

References and Further Reading

Conservation India – Gharial Populaton Estimation in the Chambal and Conservation Implications – http://www.conservationindia.org/articles/gharial-population-estimation-in-the-chambal-and-conservation-implications  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Everythingdinosaur Blog – Third Crocodile Attack Fatality in Vadodara (Gujarat State) – https://blog.everythingdinosaur.co.uk/blog/_archives/2014/04/25/third-crocodile-attack-fatality-in-vadodara-gujarat-state.html  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

IUCN Redlist – Gavialis gangeticus – http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/8966/0  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Journal of Applied Ecology – Rigorous gharial population estimation in the Chambal: implications for conservation and management of a globally threatened crocodilian – https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1365-2664.2012.02189.x (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Mental Floss – 11 Toothy Facts about Gharials – http://mentalfloss.com/article/84778/11-toothy-facts-about-gharials  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

National Geographic – Gharial – https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/reptiles/g/gharial/  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Research Gate – Gharial Ecology Project Chambal Population Nest Counts –https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Jeffrey_Lang2/publication/317953857_Gharial_Ecology_Project_Chambal_Population_Nest_Counts/links/59532289a6fdcc218d2818ab/Gharial-Ecology-Project-Chambal-Population-Nest-Counts.pdf (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Research Gate – Population Status and Distribution of Gharial Gavialis gangeticus – https://www.researchgate.net/publication/250191931_Population_Status_and_Distribution_of_Gharial_Gavialis_gangeticus_in_Nepal (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Rufford Website – Study of Investigation of Population, Habitat and Hatching Success of Gavialis gangeticus in Narayani River of Chitwan National Park – https://www.rufford.org/files/14161-2%20Detailed%20Final%20Report.pdf (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Scientific American – Rare Success: Critically Endangered Gharial Crocodiles Have Record Hatching Year – https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/extinction-countdown/endangered-gharial-crocodiles-record-hatchings/  (Retrieved 30 June, 2018)

Chitwan National Park

Established in 1973, Chitwan National Park (चितवन राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्ज) was Nepal’s first national park.

The park is located in the subtropical Terai region of southern Nepal and covers an area of 932 km2 (360 sq mi) . It is a world heritage property, and also contains the Ramsar site, Beeshazari Tal, in its buffer zone.

Google Map of Location – Link here

A total of 68 species of mammals, 544 species of birds, 56 species of herpetofauna and 126 species of fish have been recorded in the park. The park is especially known for its one-horned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis), royal Bengal tiger (Panthera tigris tigris), and gharial crocodile (Gavialis gangeticus).

Getting There

We caught a bus from Kathmandu to Sauraha, a town just outside Chitwan National Park. We didn’t quite realise what an adventure that journey was going to be… Rickety old vehicles with no suspension on very rough roads, constant road works because of all the landslides and slips, vertical cliff edges both above and below us, buses and trucks over-taking each other on blind corners. It was a ride to be remembered, that’s for sure.

Driving through Kathmandu

On the bus on our way to Sauraha

The sheer cliff faces above and below the road

One of the many custom painted trucks

A village we stopped in for a tea break along the way

Click to zoom in

From Sauraha, we were picked up by our hotel, Jungle Wildlife Camp. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable about the area. The views were great and, best of all, it was only a 2-minute walk down to the river.

Our accommodation the night we arrived in Sauraha.

The bees were also making themselves at home!

Jungle Wildlife Camp – Our room with much needed mozzie nets!

Jungle Wildlife Camp – The view from our room down towards the river

Jungle Wildlife Camp – At dinner looking over the river at Chitwan Nation Park

Breakfast time at Jungle Wildlife Camp with a view of the river and Chitwan National Park

Of course, we have to include a shot of the all important food!

Click to zoom in

That evening, we had a stroll through the township and alongside the river. Without even entering the national park, we saw a young rhino charging through town, a sloth bear crossing the river in the distance, and several gharial resting on the water’s edge on the opposite bank. We couldn’t quite believe it! We’ll post a few of those pictures below, and the rest in our upcoming species-focused blog posts.

Heading along the road into town

Enjoying the shade

“Hi there!”

The main street of Sauraha

Click to zoom in

A Walk in the Park with United Jungle Guide Service

The next morning after picking up a packed-lunch, we met our guides who were going to accompany us for the next couple of days. As you’ll see on the park entrance permits below, you cannot enter the park without a guide. We chose to book with the United Jungle Guide Service, primarily because they had good reviews and didn’t support the riding of elephants for tourism. Here’s an excerpt from their website which Tom and I quite enjoyed:

“A jungle walk is certainly the most exciting way to see the national park. All walking are accompanied by at least two nature guides, and trips wander along the park’s trails in search of a rhino or tiger, just not too close. Because, walking groups are lead by unarmed guide (except for a long stick). As long as there are a few climbable trees around tourists are fairly safe, and groups go out everyday with out accident.”

The United Jungle Guide Services

Our entrance permits to Chitwan National Park

Our entrance permits to Chitwan National Park: The guidelines.

Click to zoom in

Briefed and ready to go, we made the 15 minute walk down to the river’s edge where our canoe was waiting to take us into Chitwan National Park.

Canoeing into the Jungle

Tom, our two guides, the canoe punter and I headed down the river to where we would start our trek. It was a species-filled two-hour journey, and highly recommended if you are a birder or want to get a good view of the extremely rare gharial crocodiles.

Click to zoom in

A Two-day Trek

We landed the canoe, and continued on foot through the long elephant grass. The two-day trek took us through the national park the first day, and the Buffer Zone (which was just a great) the second day. We had many animal sightings and a few close encounters!

Click to zoom in

For the first night of our trek, we stayed in accommodation just out of the national park in a small village. For the second night, we stayed in a 22-foot high tower in the jungle inside the Buffer Zone. The Jungle Tower stay was one of my favourite memories of the trip. Nothing can beat going to sleep and waking up with the sounds of the jungle. The dawn chorus of birds, insects and monkeys was bliss! We were even awoken by the sound of fighting rhinos right below us – we could see the footprints in the dust the next morning.

A characterful window at our first night’s accommodation just outside the national park

Our first night’s accommodation just outside the national park

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

The washing facilities at our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Our accommodation for the second night in the Buffer Zone

Click to zoom in

The Wildlife

Here’s a small sample of the species we came across during our trip in Chitwan National Park and the surrounding area. We took so many photos that it was hard to narrow them down! We will write dedicated blog posts for the gharial, rhinoceros, tiger and bird species we photographed. I will link to posts here as we publish them.

Mammals

Barasingha or Swamp Deer (Rucervus duvaucelii) with a companion

Wild boar

A one-horned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis)

Sloth Bear (Melursus ursinus)

Chital or Spotted Deer (Axis axis)

Click to zoom in

A special mention: The Royal Bengal Tiger (Panthera tigris tigris)

This was a species we really didn’t expect to see in the flesh due to their extremely elusive lifestyle. Along the way, we saw plenty of sign that they were about: Claw marks in the trunks of trees (check out the height at which one tiger marked a tree – Tom is 6’3″ for reference), and fresh footprints in the sand.

Then, much to our disbelief, we spotted a tiger walking on the opposite bank of the river and disappearing into the elephant grass. Tom managed to snap one shot (below) – proof that it wasn’t just a trick of the light! I did’t even have time to get my binos on it. We were absolutely stoked!

Click to zoom in

Reptiles & Amphibians

Marsh Mugger Crocodile

Profile of a lizard

Gharial Crocodile

This fella has a hitchhiker!

Click to zoom in

Birds

Lesser Adjutant Stork (Leptoptilos javanicus)

Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus)

Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis)

A Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone spp.)

A cormorant with a catch!

Click to zoom in

Insects and Invertebrates

Spot the spiders

Tom (6’3″) standing beside a termite mound!

I thought I could feel something on my head…

Click to zoom in

On the Road Home

After our dawn-chorus wake-up, we packed our gear and made the final trek back to civilisation. Our journey through Chitwan National Park was a fleeting, yet fabulous visit. Having knowledgeable and experienced guides definitely made the difference.

The final bridge back to civilisation

The final bridge back to civilisation

Click to zoom in

Until Next Time…

Many thanks from both of us!

Click to zoom in

Want to read about another of our jungle adventures?

Then check out these posts:

References and Further Reading

Birdlife International – Chitwan National Park – http://datazone.birdlife.org/site/factsheet/14325 (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, Nepal – Chitwan National Park – http://www.chitwannationalpark.gov.np/ (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, Nepal – The Status of Nepal’s Mammals: The National Red List Series. PDF (2011) – http://awsassets.panda.org/downloads/nepal_redlist_low_09_06_2012_1.pdf (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Jungle Wildlife Camp Website – http://www.nepaljunglesafari.com/ (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Untited Jungle Guide Service – http://www.unitedjungleguide.com/ (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Wikipedia – Chitwan National Park – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chitwan_National_Park (Retrieved 23 June, 2018)

Once again, Emma and I made a brief stop-off at a new and exciting location. On this occasion while making the big trip from NZ to the UK, we touched down in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Although we met numerous kind and welcoming people, tried an array of scrummy food items, and visited many sacred and historic sites as we could, we still felt the need to meet some of the other (somewhat furry) locals. For this experience we headed out with a old friend of Emma’s and some new Nepali friends to the top of Swayambhunath. This is an ancient stupa (a dome-shaped building erected as a Buddhist shrine) atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, west of Kathmandu city.

Click to zoom in

Click to zoom in

The Problem

Not long after climbing the first set of steps, a macaque took a sudden disliking to a group of teenagers.

Click to zoom in

This interaction highlights one of the issues that arise when people live in close quarters with and have historically fed the wildlife. These monkeys are very intelligent, seemingly knowing which individuals to harass in the hopes they will drop food.  With the surrounding trees protected by religious beliefs the monkeys have found a little island amongst a sea of overloaded dusty streets and colourful towering buildings. We also witnessed the macaques eating scraps and playing with rubbish.

Click to zoom in

Dr Mukesh Kumar Chalise, an associate professor of Zoology at Tribhuvan University, has been following these monkeys since 1991 and has found that their numbers remain between 425-450 individuals at Swayambhunath. He also explains that their high numbers for such a small 2.5 hectares site (which under normal conditions would only support 40-50 individuals) is due to human food scraps. He warns of the perils of  ‘wildlife provisioning’, the “offering of food to a non-human animal, beyond its natural supply and the quality of the animal’s environment.” If you would like to know more about these issues you can read more here and here.

The Solution

Don’t feed the monkeys…!

Temple Tyrants

Click to zoom in

Watching these urbanised monkeys going about their daily lives atop the hill and on and around the temple was quite a fascinating experience. For both Emma and I, our take home feeling was how seemingly well they have adapted to an ever increasingly unusual environment.

Click to zoom in

They navigated the electrical wires, fences and buildings no differently than their ancestors would have on the vines, branches and trees that would have historically been in the area.

Click to zoom in

Click to zoom in

A Few Facts about the Rhesus Macaque (Macaca mulatta)

Click to zoom in

They are one of the best-known species of Old World monkeys (Cercopithecidae)

Cercopithecidae are a family of monkeys found in Africa and Asia (New World monkeys are from Central and South America as well as Mexico)

Rhesus Macaques have the widest geographic range of any nonhuman primate

They occupy a large range of altitudes and habitats

Their average lifespan in the wild is 4 years

They live in active, noisy troops that can include up to 200 animals

Rhesus macaques communicate with a variety of facial expressions, vocalisations, body postures, and gestures

They have demonstrated a suite of complex cognitive abilities and even self-agency

They are mostly herbivorous, feeding mainly on fruit, but many also eat seeds, roots, buds, bark, cereals, insects and small animals

One Final Treat

Just before heading off the hill, we noticed one very obliging female macaque.

Click to zoom in

After taking her photograph she looked down.

Click to zoom in

That’s when we realised she was hiding something.

Click to zoom in

Click to zoom in

Now look at that face. Totally beyond cuteness.

References and Further Reading

IUCN Red List – Rhesus Macaque – http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/12554/0 (Retrieved 13 May, 2018)

The Kathmandu Post, The all-unnatural diet – http://kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2017-03-11/the-all-unnatural-diet.html (Retrieved 13 May, 2018)

Luminism Blog – https://luminism.wordpress.com/2016/05/12/the-effect-of-wildlife-provisioning-on-primates/ (Retrieved 13 May, 2018)

National Geographic – Rhesus Macaque – https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/r/rhesus-macaque/ (Retrieved 13 May, 2018)

Wikipedia website, Swayambhunath – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swayambhunath (Retrieved 13 May, 2018)

Mahakirau Forest Estate

Click to zoom in

Three Archey’s frogs, five Hochstetter’s frogs, three Coromandel striped geckos, and one forest gecko… all seen in less than a 24 hour period! Whenever we visit Sara and Ro out at Mahakirau Forest Estate, we are always spoilt with wildlife encounters.

Mahakirau Forest Estate

The Mahakirau Forest Estate is located on the Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand, and is made up of almost 600 hectares of native forest. This is divided into 24 private properties which are covenanted with the QEII National Trust (560ha) or with Thames Coromandel District Council (16ha). Introduced animal and plant controls are in place on the estate to protect and restore biodiversity. Their efforts do not go unnoticed with many very rare species being found in the area!

Our friend and fellow ecologist, Amy Archer, checking out the freshwater fauna.

Click to zoom in

Here is a brief overview of some of the species you might encounter there:

Reptiles and Amphibians

Coromandel striped gecko (Toropuku “Coromandel”)

Forest gecko (Mokopirirakau granulatus)

Hochstetter’s frog (Leiopelma hochstetteri)

Archey’s frog (Leiopelma archeyi)

Birds

North Island kākā (Nestor meridionalis septentrionalis)

North Island brown kiwi (Apteryx mantelli)

Kererū (Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae)

Tui (Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae)

Bellbird (Anthornis melanura)

Fantail (Rhipidura fuliginosa)

Tomtit (Petroica macrocephala toitoi)

Silvereye (Zosterops lateralis)

Grey warbler (Gerygone igata)

Kingfisher (Todiramphus sanctus vagans)

Morepork (Ninox novaeseelandiae)

Shining cuckoo (Chrysococcyx lucidas)

Insects

Helm’s butterfly (Dodonidia helmsii)

Painted cave wētā (Neonetus spp.)

Freshwater Fish

Longfin eel (Anguilla dieffenbachii)

Kokopu spp.

Flora

Northern rātā (Metrosideros robusta)

Kauri (Agathis australis)

Miro (Podocarpus ferrugineus)

Rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum)

Mountain tōtara (Podocarpus hallii)

Kahikatea (Dacrycarpus dacrydioides)

Kaikawaka (Libocedrus bidwillii)

Tanekaha (Phyllocladus trichomanoides)

Taraire (Beilschmiedia tarairi)

Pukatea (Laurelia novae-zelandiae)

Kohekohe (Dysoxylum spectabile)

Kānuka (Kunzea spp.)

Mānuka (Leptospermum scoparium)

King Fern

Kirk’s daisy (Brachyglottis kirkii)

Looking up towards the canopy. 

Click to zoom in

OUR ENCOUNTERS

The following photos are a few highlights of our Mahakirau Forest Estate explorations. We went out on a night-walk where we spotted the Archey’s frog, forest gecko and Coromandel striped gecko. We also found Hochstetter’s frogs the next morning on a wander along one of the forested streams.

Amy and Tom have found a critter to photograph.

Click to zoom in

Archey’s Frog (Leiopelma archeyi)

Family: Leiopelmatidae New Zealand Status: Endemic Conservation Status: Threatened – Nationally Vulnerable (NZTCS), Critically Endangered (IUCN)

The Archey’s frog is the only terrestrial frog found on mainland New Zealand. It is also our smallest native frog, growing up to 37 mm long.

Click to zoom in

Check out our blog post about the Archey’s frog from a previous trip here:

Hochstetter’s Frog (Leiopelma hochstetteri)

Family: Leiopelmatidae New Zealand Status: Endemic Conservation Status: At Risk – Declining (NZTCS)

The Hochstetter’s frog is New Zealand’s most widespread native frog. It has partially webbed feet and has more warts than our other native frogs.

Click to zoom in

Check out our blog post about the Hochstetter’s frog from a previous trip here:

Coromandel Striped Gecko (Toropuku “Coromandel”)

Family: Diplodactylidae New Zealand Status: Endemic Conservation Status: Threatened – Nationally Vulnerable (NZTCS)

The Coromandel striped gecko is considered to be one of the rarest and most restricted of the New Zealand geckos.

Click to zoom in

Check out our blog post about the Coromandel striped gecko from a previous trip here:

Forest Gecko (Mokopirirakau granulatus)

Family: Diplodactylidae New Zealand Status: Endemic Conservation Status: At Risk – Declining (NZTCS)

The Māori name for the forest gecko is moko pirirākau, meaning “the lizard that clings to trees.” You might have noticed that this is also its genus.

Click to zoom in

Until Next Time

Thank you, Sara and Ro, for having us to stay once again. We always enjoy our time with you and the other Mahakirau residents (of all varieties, humans included😊).

What a special place you call “home”!

One last view before heading back up the hill. See you again soon!

Click to zoom in

References and Further Reading

Department of Conservation Website – Archey’s Frog – http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-animals/reptiles-and-frogs/frogs-pepeketua/archeys-frog/ (Retrieved 28 March, 2018)

Department of Conservation Website – Frogs/Pepeketua – http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-animals/reptiles-and-frogs/frogs-pepeketua/ (Retrieved 28 March, 2018)

Department of Conservation Website – New Zealand Threat Classification System (NZTCS) – http://www.doc.govt.nz/about-us/science-publications/conservation-publications/nz-threat-classification-system/ (Retrieved 13 March, 2018)

IUCN Red List of Threatened Species Website – http://www.iucnredlist.org/ (Retrieved 13 March, 2018)

Mahakirau Forest Estate Website – http://www.mahakirau.co.nz/ (Retrieved 13 March, 2018)

QEII National Trust Website – https://qeiinationaltrust.org.nz/ (Retrieved 13 March, 2018)