bæddelmōdor

Labyrinth of the Minotaur, Lambertus a S. Audomaro, Saint-Omer, c. 1121

Typically, those versed in Mediterranean fashion think of a tall, vaguely cone like hat (tantour) as a Levantine thing. However, in Mamluk Egypt, such hats were equally popular.

[European drawings of Mamluk era women]

The style here is a kind of taqqiya. This hat was initially a men's hat (as the other type of taqqiya is today), and was adopted by women in an era of what has been called "wide-spread transvestism" under the Mamluks. Though widespread, "crossdressing" was also often the subject of laws and public humiliation. Al-Maqrizi claims this was due to an increasing commonality of gay stuff happening with higher class men, which led women to start dressing like men. However, I wouldn't be surprised if there was other stuff going on. This overall backlash against crossdressing as well as anti-Coptic violence also led to increased criminalization Nayrouz, a Coptic festival that centuries ago involved pranks, crossdressing, and public merriment before being legally restricted by Medieval Islamic rulers. (It is not, despite the name and a few practices, related to Nowruz... I was able to find attestation of some fire and water related customs of the Pharaonic New Year festival on the sane date from the New Kingdom. I haven't come up with a satisifying theory as to when exactly that name was adopted and neither has anyone else).

Another style was the ṭarṭur, which could either be conical, pipe-like, or shaped like a goblet. This style was still in use in the end of the 17th century. It could be either a relatively affordable headdress, or made of fine foreign leathers and decorated with pearls, gems, coins, and ducats.

Color charts of undifferentiated (top) and specialized (bottom) plumage of different warbler species from Charles Keeler's Evolution of the colors of North American land birds (1893).