The Open Rhode

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide: Stay in Torres Del Paine Park Do you want to hike the W circuit but still stay in luxury when visiting Patagonia, Chile? Is it possible to ride a horse with a gaucho across the pampas? Can you sip champagne in a hot tub located at the foot of a glacier fed lake? The answer to all 3 is YES! Read our article about how to stay at the luxurious Explora hotel located inside Torres Del Paine National Park. https://www.theopenrhode.com/patagonia-another-world-2/ #Explora #Hiking #Luxury #patagoniachile

Patagonia Chile Travel Guide

Most adventurers have some gear or clothing emblazoned with the ubiquitous Patagonia brand name and we finally had the opportunity to travel to the land that inspired it all! Just google Patagonia and ALL that will return is the brand and where to buy it. However, Patagonia itself is a sprawling, vast region covering the southern tip of South America divided between Chile and Argentina with the Andes mountain range as a divider. It includes two World Heritage Parks, Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina and Torres Del Paine National Park in Chile, and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

Endless Exploration

We chose to explore the Chilean side of Patagonia and the famously photographed Torres del Paine, which are 3 towering granite peaks of the Paine mountain range. Other highlights include renowned glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, Grey, Pingo, and Tyndall and the well-known lakes including Grey, Pehoe (on which we stayed), Nordenslold, and Sarmiento. The park has over 900 square miles and hiking is abundant. The two most famous circuits are the "O" and the "W." The W Circuit is arguably the most popular and you could do a 5 day trek of just this circuit alone Trip Travel Details

From Boston To Patagonia Chile

It is quite the flight from the East Coast to Patagonia with most flights connecting through Santiago and then another 3-4 hour flight to Patagonia Stay Duration in Patagonia 6 Days & 5 Nights Total Flight Time 13 Hours Drive Time To Explora Patagonia From Punta Arenas 4 hr 30 mins There are many different bases from which to explore. The closest airport is Puerto Natales located approximately 2 hours from the park. Many travelers choose to stay here and embark on day trips. There are also a limited number of options located within the park including camping, refuges, and deluxe lodging. Note that the Puerto Natales airport only offers flights during the high season, so that leaves Puntas Arenas airport, an approximately 4 hour ride from the park. We chose the luxurious Explora Patagonia for our base camp (read more below on this splurge) and couldn't have been happier. From their coveted location in the park, you can essentially hike the entire W circuit in a series of day hikes, horseback ride along sweeping vistas, and take short van rides to see more sites and try to spy the elusive puma. Furthermore, their van picks you up in Puntas Arenas and escorts you to their lodge and takes care of virtually everything from the time you enter their van. We don't have much to report from our travels before arriving at Explora as we arrived very late after a flight delay and lost luggage. However, once in the confines of the Explora van, the exploration truly began. I must also say the van driver kindly stopped for every wildlife encounter..flamingos, condors, foxes and patiently waited while we began the onslaught of photography. 4 hours didn't seem unnecessarily burdensome as the mountain vistas were breathtaking and we stopped at the midway point for lunch at Hotel Posada, Rio Rubens where we had a light lunch and some Magellan beers!

Edit gallery Our arrival to Explora was met with awe. They have a stunning location where their white lodge sits atop a ledge overlooking the turquoise waters of Lake Pehoe. The style is very modern and sleek and we were greeted with a refreshing beverage while we got our overview. If possible, get an upgrade to the Cordillera Paine rooms which look out on the 3 massive granite spires. The room has a large bed with hints of turquoise to mirror the lake and plenty of cubbies and hooks for gear. The bathroom is large with a drying rack and ample toiletries made using local ingredients. We loved the lip balm which was great for fortifying those Patagonian wind chapped lips. The lodge itself is surrounded by catwalks for strolling down to the lake or waterfall or up toward the mountains to get better views of the Torres. They have one ample dining room with walls of windows so you can look across the lake. The lodge only holds about 100 guests so dining and other experiences feel intimate and thoughtful. The dining experience was fantastic. Breakfasts are buffet style and dinners are 3 course masterpieces. All alcohol is included and they have a great bartender/mixologist who concocts a new delicious cocktail each day. I eat mostly a vegetarian palate with some chicken and they had plenty of options for me. Meanwhile, my husband ate virtually everything, including guanaco. Most days you’ve hiked at least 10 miles, so get that dessert too! Finally, they have an indoor pool and 3 outdoor hot tubs which sit on the glacial lake which feel blissful after long days of hiking.

The essence of Explora though is their excursions. Keep this in mind when you are weighing if the cost is worthwhile. You get a guide for a very small group each day (and one day it was just my husband and me) and I think this significant helps justify the cost. Each night you meet in the common spaces outside of the dining room and have a meeting with a guide to go over the options for the next day’s activities. While you warm in front of a crackling fire with a Pisco Sour in hand, you are presented with both full or half day options. Full day options usually involve a longer hike (we chose our full days to essentially complete the W circuit) and you choose your lunch. They offer sandwiches or metal canisters made of quinoa dishes or salad options. The canisters are incredibly filling and much better than the sandwiches in my opinion. Snacks are EVERYwhere and you can load up and refill your reusable water bottle before each trip. Half day trips consist of shorter hikes or horseback rides returning to the lodge to enjoy lunch in the dining room. This experience was also nice as the dining room was usually pretty empty during the day and having a wine after finishing a hike feels pretty indulgent. They do a good job of learning your ability levels and are fairly successful at pairing you with hikers of similar skills/endurance.

Base of the Torres Hike

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Full Article can be found at:https://www.theopenrhode.com/galapagos-travel-guide-evolution-at-the-equator/

Research. That’s the first thing I would advise when planning a trip to the Galapagos. It’s a pricey trip and you want to make sure that you are getting the adventure you envisioned.  A few months of planning and it will ‘evolve’ into the trip of a lifetime! The biggest decision is whether you want to explore on a boat or via a land tour. My personal bias is to explore the Galapagos by boat…you have the possibility to explore more remote islands and see more animals and landscapes. With a land tour, you are somewhat limited as you are bound by how far your day trip boat can take you.

That’s only the first of your many decisions! Next up will be the wildlife. This is certainly a large factor and will dictate your other decisions.  There are distinct mating periods for certain animals, times when the water will have more wildlife, and periods to witness babies hatching. The Galapagos has 2 distinct seasons, a dry cool season and a warm wet season, which will heavily influence this…and influence if you can actually tolerate snorkeling or diving in cold water necessary for some animals. I would consider the final big decision your itinerary. Many are divided into an Eastern and a Western itinerary and one is not better than the other. It just depends on what you want to see. For us, we had our heart set on those adorable Galapagos Penguins so we made sure we chose an itinerary that included Isabela and Fernandina (Western). Trip Travel Details

Sailing From Puerto Ayora To The Western Galapagos

"Mere chance ... alone would never account for so habitual and large an amount of difference as that between varieties of the same species." ~ Charles Darwin Sail Duration 7 Days & 6 Nights Total Snorkel Days 6 Amazing Snorkel Days Weather Conditions Between 70 & 80 F and in the 70s for water temperature...I'd recommend a light wetsuit/surf shirt Much has been written about the possibility of booking a ‘last minute’ trip. While I think theoretically this is possible, it requires a great deal of flexibility. You’d have to roll up to Quito with cash in hand and be ready for any leftover berths on ships. Not only does this require some luck, but it also potentially means you’d have to forego an island you really wanted to see. Heavily researching exactly what you want and planning can still allow you to get quite a bargain. I would also advise communicating with many tour companies so they can alert you if there is a deal. One of the ships that had the itinerary I wanted was consistently $5000 USD…until one night it suddenly dropped to half off as no one had booked a single cabin. So…keep checking as pricing does change esp as the departure date nears. Noticing exactly when this change happened allowed us to score the prime cabin on the boat…at the same rate as the other cabins. Some of our shipmates tried a last minute deal in Quito and found the same price we paid booking months ahead. We booked with Happy Gringo who were excellent and had scores of amazing online reviews on Tripadvisor. They also sent a flower arrangement to our hotel in Quito for our anniversary…exceptional service and email responses were incredibly prompt. Ultimately, we booked on the Reina Silvia for the first week in December. We packed some wetsuits, snorkels, water shoes and were off! Given my ‘love’ of air travel on South American airlines (see my other posts regarding dear Latam), we have gotten a bit more savvy and now book a mandatory extra day to account for plane delays. This trip on Copa airlines was no different…partially under their airlines control and partially weather. A strong storm in Panama had us divert to a smaller local airport and after a ‘brief’ 3 hour wait on the tarmac, we were cleared to return to the main Panama airport. This, I fully concede, was not under their control. However when our 3:30 flight evolved into 5 PM on the board due to the weather, then 6, we boarded…what Copa really meant was we were leaving close to 9 PM which meant another 2 or so hours sitting on the tarmac. This was especially frustrating as we had taken quite a sprint to make the 5 PM and didn’t have time to get dinner…when in reality, the 3 hours spent on the tarmac would have been much better spent grabbing a leisurely dinner.

Cotopaxi

Arriving at the JW Marriot hotel in downtown Quito close to midnight left little time to sleep before our planned hiking/biking day tour of Cotopaxi. Side note…I book nearly everything through Booking.com to get my rewards but found a much better price for our day tour booking direct ($30 less per person). We booked through Rebecca Adventure Travel and had a very smooth pickup. Our day included a local lunch and dinner, a hike from the parking lot up to the refuge on Cotopaxi, and a bike ride down. While I am very glad we did this tour…make no mistake, it was a challenging hike. We live at sea level and hiking to 16,000 feet with zero acclimatization was a heart pumping endeavor. We’ve never experienced any challenges with altitude but we truly felt a bit lightheaded and out of breath on a fairly steep hike up to the refuge. If you go, bring plenty to hydrate and dress warmly. Our views of Cotopaxi were somewhat obscured by clouds but we still had a great view of the glacier. Biking down was quite a rush. I’m not sure how safe I felt hurtling down the gravel road on a loaner bike, but we survived! and there was always the option to bail out and hop on the van following us. With only one day before the Galapagos, we preferred this to a city tour, but the trade off was not really experiencing much of Quito. Some travelers we met did have some issues with petty crime in Quito. A backpack was slashed open, a credit card skimmer was used, so be alert. Instead of either Quito or Cotopaxi, I would even consider flying to the Galapagos before your cruise and staying in Puerto Ayora but more on that later. Early the next morning, we were off on a flight to the Galapagos! There are 2 additional costs to travel to the Galapagos 1) a $20 tourist transit card that allows the Ecuadorian government to keep track of who travels to the Galapagos and 2) a $100 Galapagos entry fee that you will pay on arrival to the Galapagos. You need cash to pay for these items and I would advise that prior to travel to the Galapagos, you obtain your cash. You’ll need it for these entry requirements, tips for cruise staff, and extra charges on the boat and I believe there are only 2 ATMs on the islands that are rumored to run out of money often. To note, there are no international flights that arrive to the Galapagos. Also note…Ecuador uses the USD as their currency. There are no plastic bags or bottles allowed in the Galapagos so bring a reusable bottle (or most ships will provide one) but you can bring in alcohol and other liquids on this domestic flight.

Our arrival to the Galapagos was smooth and we were immediately met by our tour guide after claiming our bags. It was nice to know our next 8 days were planned to perfection by our guide and we would’t have to do much rather than photograph and relax! The airport is located on the tiny Baltra Island. Thus, to travel to San Cristobal, where most ships depart, or to find a hotel from which to explore, you’ll need to catch a ferry over the Itabaca Channel. Our tour guide seamlessly arranged this (as would all of the cruises), but it’s easy to navigate on your own if you were not doing a cruise. I assumed we would hop right on the boat, but we instead enjoyed a leisurely first day before boarding the boat around 5 pm. Immediately after arrival to the main island of San Cristobal, we boarded a shuttle and began our true Galapagos adventure. First stop: El Chato Ranch, a private ecological tortoise reserve. Within minutes of exiting the bus, we had our first Galapagos animal encounter! We saw close to a hundred of these giant tortoises gradually working their way through this very large reserve snacking on grass and calmly observing us. Our next stop was a delicious outdoor lunch at Rancho El Manzanillo. To complete our day of giant tortoise amazement, we stopped at the Charles Darwin Research Station where they are working on tortoise rehabilitation, monitoring animal migration, and much more. Our guide allowed us to stroll from the research station through the town of Puerto Ayora before boarding our ship. Our 15 minute walk took us through the main street in Puerto Ayora filled with countless trendy appearing restaurants, shops, and boutique hotels. We regret not being able to spend more time here. If we were to recreate our trip, we’d maybe try to fly into town a bit before our ship departed to explore the research station and Puerto Ayora further. We booked our flights through Happy Gringo but you can book flights to the Galapagos independently (which possibly would be cheaper). This is a great (and maybe the only stop) for souvenirs as the other islands are not really inhabited (except by the wildlife!). I grabbed a t-shirt from the aptly named Darwin + Wolf Clothing Store. 

Tortoise, Galapagos

‘Puffins and Muffins’ was the slogan for our 13 hour road trip to the North. The name originated from our goal to seek out the stocky birds and our car breakfasts of muffins along the trek. We took our long road trip up the East Coast from Rhode Island to Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia in 2016. With the current exchange rate between the USD and CAD, there’s no better time to visit Canada!

West Quoddy Head

Our journey began in Rhode Island and our first leg took us to the halfway mark. Seven hours traveling north brought us all the way to Lubec, Maine. We arrived after dark and barely slept as we wanted to be up early to get out to West Quoddy Head which is the easternmost point in the United States….and home of the first sunrise in the continental US. We arrived a little before 5 am to wait in the dark as the first hints of light illuminated the famous red and white striped lighthouse.

West Quoddy Head, Lubec, Maine The iconic lighthouse now operates with an automated light instead of a lighthouse keeper and it’s absolutely worth the trip. You feel at the edge of the world gazing off into the Atlantic. Few tourists make it out this early so you’ll have the park mostly to yourself. We didn’t stay long enough for the museum to open, but they reportedly also sell certificates so you can boast that you’ve been to the easternmost point. We kept it moving to stick to our travel schedule but made a quick stroll through the charming town of Lubec. They have a few smaller bed and breakfasts, gift shops, art galleries and restaurants. We popped into the Sunrise Cafe to grab some beverages to accompany our muffins!

The Bay of Fundy

Next we rambled up the coast of Maine and then continued onto New Brunswick. In New Brunswick, we drove through Fundy National Park which sits on Goose Bay, the northwestern branch of the Bay of Fundy. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world which can rise and fall an incredible 50 feet in one twelve hour expanse. We made our first stop at the eastern entrance to Fundy National Park at Cape Enrage. There is a large reef that extends south from the Cape which causes the water to become turbulent when the reef is exposed at lower tides and the water is moving rapidly over the reef. It’s a pretty stop with a picturesque lighthouse (built in 1838) and a staircase to walk down to the water where you can literally see the water coming in from the rapidly moving tide. You won’t need to spend much time here unless you stop for lunch at the onsite restaurant, but the views from their towering cliffs are spectacular. Our final New Brunswick stop was the famous Hopewell Rocks, also known as the Flowerpot Rocks. Located on the upper reaches of the Bay of Fundy. These sandstone formations have been geologically carved over time. At low tide, you can walk among the formations and explore tidal pools and coves and at high tide; they appear as tall islands topped by trees. The Canadians have named many of them based on their appearance (Lover’s Arch, Dinosaur Rock, ET, etc). They have well kept trails and it’s a super easy walk to get to the formations…a nice leg stretch on our journey! We skipped the tourist filled restaurant there and headed 10 minutes away to the Cinnamon Soul Cafe which had some terrific sandwiches. It will take about 4 hours to get from Quoddy Head to Hopewell Rocks without stops…but I would factor in 3 hours for all your photo stops. If you’ve followed our itinerary though, you were up at sunrise! 

Prince Edward Island

Cavendish, PEI Our final driving leg took us the last 3 hours to Prince Edward Island. You’ll take the Confederation Bridge, an 8 mile long expanse that spans the narrowest part of the Northumberland Strait, separating the island from the mainland. Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province though the most densely populated. It only takes 3 hours to drive from tip to tip but it’s unspoiled scenery, rolling farmlands, and rocky red shores pack a punch over the 139 miles. Of course, PEI is well known to many of us through the eyes of Anne of Green Gables, the fictional spirited redheaded heroine of Lucy Maud Montgomery’s classic book. I confess I read all of her tales repeatedly as a child and her presence is definitely felt in many facets of PEI life.  After our long day of driving, we checked into The Great George Hotel in PEI’s capital of Charlottetown. It’s a boutique hotel made of 54 suites spread across 17 restored heritage buildings dating back to the mid 1840’s. Charlottetown itself is modern, safe, and charming…we used it as our base to explore PEI. You’ll definitely want to spend a few hours rambling through the cobblestone streets. Victoria Row (The Row) is lined with red brick buildings and in the summer, it’s closed to traffic so you can grab a table outside or head to a rooftop bar for views of the city. It’s known for being a culinary powerhouse and especially so for seafood. 

Anne of Green Gables

Anne of Green Gables Heritage Place You could easily spend a week or more exploring the relaxing PEI, or even just Charlottetown, but we did a little over a day of highlights as Nova Scotia beckoned. However, we couldn’t miss a stop at Anne of Green Gables’s famed home. Located in Cavendish, PEI, Green Gables Heritage Place is visited by thousands of tourists each year who come to find the green gabled farmhouse and surrounding woodlands. There’s an Anne onsite marvelously in character who dutifully posed for a curtsy photo with my husband. From the farmhouse, we meandered along Prince Edward Island National Park Drive which encompasses the island’s rocky northern coastline. We drove the segment from Cavendish to North Rustico admiring the red towering cliffs along the sandy beaches. Everyone recommended Blue Mussell Cafe to dine in North Rustico and we would also highly recommend a stop there! They don’t take reservations but it’s a fine view of North Rustico Harbor to wait a bit for your table. Our other dining recommendation is the Point Prim Chowderhouse at sunset. This one definitely needs a reservation! They are located at the end of the road near the Point Prim Lighthouse, Canada’s oldest lighthouse, about a 45 minute drive from Charlottetown. They offer spectacular views of the tidal pools surrounding Point Prim and you can enjoy fresh seafood on their outdoor deck. We loved sipping a cocktail and watching the sun dip into the ocean. Our time in PEI was much too short. If able, I’d advise up to a week there in the summer as it is beautiful and filled with quintessential summer activities.

Burntcoat Head Park

We left Charlottetown and finally crossed in Nova Scotia! We traveled 3 hours from PEI to Burntcoat Head Park. This park boasts the highest tides in the world and it’s backed up by a Guinness World Record! It’s average tide is 47.5 feet with an extreme range of 53.6 feet. Twice daily, the Bay of Fundy fills and recedes 160 billion tons of water. We arrived here at low tide and explored the ocean floor and tidal pools taking many pictures of the area that would be flooded with 50 feet of water a mere 6 hours later. We would recommend that you see the Park at both low and high tide. After our low tide exploration, we drove to Avondale Sky Winery (about an hour away) to fill some of the gap. It was an enjoyable few hours with a little wine tasting, vineyard wandering and delicious lunch. On the way to the winery, we also popped into the Frieze and Roy General Store, which is Canada’s oldest continually run general store. Some interesting antiques to view but the lunch they had here at their small counter was pretty terrible. We rarely write bad reviews but the customer service and food was our worst experience of the year. We threw it out and were fortunately rewarded for this decision by having a great experience at the winery in an idyllic outdoor setting. As our 6 hours drew to a close, we headed back to the park and it was pretty amazing to see how rapidly the tide had covered the very ocean floor we’d explored hours earlier. We took some photos in the same spot as before and afters and the tide change is dramatic! To note, there are several locations in the area that offer river rafting on the tidal bore…this definitely looked intriguing but given our limited clothing for our week long trip and the mud covered photos we saw, we took a pass. Might be a fun adventure though!

Cape Breton

Our next destination brought us further into Nova Scotia with a goal of driving the coast of Cape Breton along the Cabot Trail. We set up a base at Cabot Shores. I’ll confess this lodging choice was not a great one and we would not recommend it. We stumbled upon it on Airbnb and the adorable appearing yurts seemed unique. However, the reality was that they were MUCH smaller than they appeared in the photos, had a bit of a musty smell, and the lodging tried to overcharge for everything. A ‘free’ pitcher of warm tap water was provided, but they wouldn’t give ice, firewood, or refill the pitcher without charging you. The communal bathroom facilities were also pretty lackluster. Our main complaint though was that the yurt had no way to lock so we essentially repacked and locked our belongings in our trunk each day. In retrospect, instead of choosing one base accommodation, we would recommend a couple lodging options along Cape Breton so you aren’t backtracking each day as you meander along. While we didn’t stay at the Keltic Lodge at the Highlands, we did drive through on our way along the Cabot Trail and it looked well maintained with breathtaking views…we definitely thought about abandoning that yurt and making a move! There isn’t much to eat nearby but we did enjoy a little homey place called “Simply Pizza” which unsurprisingly served no frills pizza which was very good and much better than eating at the yurt. 

The tiny yurt

Puffins!

Before we set out for the Cabot Trail in earnest, we aimed to fulfill our mission of seeing puffins. We opted for the Bird Island Puffin Tour. This tour runs from May to mid September. Puffins are migratory sea birds and spend the majority of the year at sea feeding. In the spring and summer, they gather in colonies on the coasts of the North Atlantic to breed. During this time, their beaks turn a flashy orange color which is great for your puffin pics! However, many companies we researched stopped their tours at the end of August…we should have payed a little closer attention to that. We visited in early September, but by that time, the puffins had mostly moved on. There were only 2 mating pairs left which fortunately we did see from a distance. In the peak season though, hundreds of birds fill the island. This short tour (about an hour and a half) was still worthwhile though at $50. 

Skyline Trail

Our next endeavor was the Cabot Trail. This is a 185 mile loop around the northern tip of Nova Scotia. The western and eastern portions have scenic views of the rocky coastline and ocean. The northern section passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park with the famed Skyline Trail. Finally, the Southern section passes through the Margaree River valley and Bras d’Or Lake. It’s a gorgeous drive and you could do it in one day though as I mentioned above, a lodging stop along the way would likely be better. Though there are numerous hikes along the route, if you are going to do only one, I’d go for the Skyline Trail. This is a relatively easy 2 hour hike on French Mountain and at the halfway point of the trail, there are viewing platforms that afford sweeping views of the famous Cabot Trail roadway and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Moose sighting are common and we spied a sleeping moose at a close distance. Who knew moose slept lying down? We also tried our luck whale watching with Dixon’s Zodiac Seafari where you board a smaller 12 passenger zodiac and whip along the shores of Cape Breton. We spotted 2 minke whales at a distance but it was still exhilarating zipping along the coast on a sun filled day.

Halifax

Our final leg of our whirlwind Nova Scotia tour was Halifax. Halifax combines historic charm with plenty of modern flourishes. It’s a harbor front city that I think is best explored on foot as you can wander the streets and harborfront stumbling upon numerous and shops. The dining scene is plentiful. We tried our luck at the Bicycle Thief with an amazing patio steps from the water with delicious food they describe as “North American food with Italian soul.” We also has a nightcap at the livelier Split Crow Pub, Nova Scotia’s Original Tavern with some great live music. Besides enjoying some great dining and browsing the harborfront, we also hiked up to the Halifax Citadel set on a prominent hill overlooking the city. It consists of a series of forts that protected the harbor and the views are worth a quick stop.

Peggy's Cove

Our farewell to Nova Scotia was at the famous Peggy’s Cove, a quaint fishing village located approximately an hour from Halifax. This very small village houses the famous Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse which may be the most photographed lighthouse in all of Canada. Many artists call this cove home and there are various local galleries and giftshops. It does get a little crowded on a summer day, so I’d arrive early to escape the tour buses and enjoy the peaceful views of the lighthouse and the mighty Atlantic. On your way to or from Peggy’s Cove, I’d advise a cookie stop at the White Sails Bakery!  This weeklong trip involved our usual bustle from location to location and we did get a preview of stunning PEI and Nova Scotia. Though, this trip might be a better place to hunker down for a few days in one spot and just soak in the abundant views and relax! 

Champagne Splurge

This trip was decidedly one of our more frugal trips. No pricey airfare, no luxurious accommodations and with the exchange rate, our dining was a pretty great bargain as well. If we had to do it again, we’d splurge for the Keltic Lodge or another place with gorgeous views along Cape Breton! 

Champagne "Buzz"worthy

The CAT ferry operates between Bar Harbor, Maine and Nova Scotia. I think the drive is spectacular but you only need one way to experience it. It might be nice to take the ferry back home to shave a little time off your drive. 

Insider Tips

Patagonia Trucker Hat

Rome Mittens

Ray Ban Sunglasses

Patagonia Los Gatos Vest

Asolo Hiking Boots

Prana Diva Skirt Layer up for Patagonia hiking! I love easy off/on vests and down skirts for warmth. Bright accents with hats and mittens make for happier photos. The true must...comfortable hiking shoes for slogging all those miles!

There aren't a ton of sites to visit in Churchill. The town is only a mile! However, here are what we consider can't miss sites.  Lazy Bear Cafe - a newer establishment with excellent food albeit a bit more expensive but it has the ambiance of a cozy log cabin

Tundra Inn Restaurant and Pub - This is a great pub style restaurant in the middle of town. This place has great food and a good beer selection.  Also they have the only "nightlife" in Churchill. When we visited on Halloween, there was music and everyone was in costume.

Tamarack Car Rental - This is the rental agency (and the only car rental agency we know exists) we used. The town is small and easy to navigate and you can search all of the daylight hours for bears. We also drove to an amazing spot outside of town. Here is a link to the directions (https://goo.gl/maps/niJ6FGowzKw6NZan8).  It's about a 15 min drive and is worth it to see the rugged Canadian wilderness.  There is a tower you can climb that gives you expansive views. Miss Piggy - an abandoned plane wreck that overlooks the Hudson

Polar Bear Jail - You can’t actually go in the jail but can view the mural on the building. This is a program where a bear that becomes too familiar with the town is placed in a temporary hold before being sedated and flown farther away from the town to discourage repeated strolls near people

Churchill Station - This is where the rail car comes back into now that it's running again.  While you're at the Station, Parks Canada's Interpretive Center has exhibits on the human and natural history of the area.

Post office - You can also make a quick stop in the local post office to get your passport stamped!

Gypsy’s - this is an iconic bakery in the area with reasonably priced food (and giant polar bear donuts!) Update: Gypsy's succumbed to a devastating fire in 2018. I'm glad that we were able to experience it's charm and amazing donuts.  Hopefully they will rebuild as it was such an iconic landmark!

While reading an article on the best places to see the Northern Lights, we stumbled upon Churchill, Manitoba…the ‘Polar Bear Capital of the World.’ Churchill, Manitoba is the first place for ice to freeze on the Hudson Bay. Thus, every October/November season, polar bears congregate on the shores and lazily await the ice to begin seal hunting. A chance to come within feet of a polar bear sounds like our type of trip!

How to Get There

Getting to Churchill takes commitment. Basically, there are two options 1) A very expensive flight on Calm Air from Winnipeg (approximately $1500 CAD) or 2) a long train journey on VIA Rail Canada. The train is significantly cheaper at around $500 CAD but it’s a 2 day train journey from Winnipeg. No roads exist to drive to Churchill. Our grand plan was to travel by car from Winnipeg to Thompson, Manitoba and then take the train making it only an overnight on a train versus those 2 long days (with no internet) ….costing around $150 CAD for the rental and $150 CAD for the train. We were derailed (train pun) when consecutive blizzards shut the tracks down for a couple years for repairs which became a nightmare for the residents of Churchill which you can read about here: Via Rail Hudson Bay Railway suspended, our wonderfully crafted itinerary crumbled and we forked over the cash for Calm Air.

When you arrive to Churchill, you are greeted by this sign. It’s enthralling as the bears are the reason for the lengthy trek…though it instills a justified trepidation. Our B&B host at Berg’s Bed and Breakfast picked us up and showed us around town. With a population around 900, it’s a quick tour. We could easily explore the small town of Churchill via foot though it’s unnerving knowing you could spy a polar bear around the next corner. Lodging here is quite basic. Expect no frills but great hospitality and you must book early. We planned our trip pretty late in the game (read: about 8 months in advance), but Churchill easily fills a year out. We were pretty lucky to secure a room. We stayed at Berg's Bed and Breakfast which has 3 rentable rooms. Note It appears that this accommodation has closed, so here's link to other possible accommodations in Churchill, MB. The Tundra Inn and Iceberg Inn are always popular though fill quickly and we were also intrigued by Blue Sky Bed and Breakfast which is a little outside of town and also offers dogsledding.

The Tundra Buggy

Lodging really wasn’t of importance to us…you’re enduring the brisk temperatures and lack of amenities for polar bears…in their natural environment. Does it get any cooler than that? We chose Great White Bear Tours for our excursion on a tundra buggy. For those unfamiliar, this is a supersized vehicle with enormous tires equipped with a viewing platform on the back. The advantage of using a tour operator is that very few are allowed in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area which can increase your odds of seeing a bear. 

After an hour of slowly maneuvering the buggy through slush, our tour guide spied a plodding shape in the distance…a ‘potato chip in the snow’ as they nickname the sighting. Admittedly, I had tried to manage expectations. We’ve done many a whale tour to see a small flash of gray on the water’s surface allegedly representing a whale. Slowly the shape came closer and most decidedly was a polar bear loping toward the buggy. Words will fail to adequately describe this beautiful bear and how small you feel as you can feel his exhalation and look directly into his eyes. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Self Tour in A Rental

Another way to experience the polar bear is via rental car. No one has informed the bears they must stay in the Wildlife Management Area…so they can be anywhere and you might get lucky (as we did) and spot a few. Or…become obsessed with driving back and forth over the same roads monotonously as there were rumors of a mom and 2 cubs roaming (no luck). This is another area where booking early is needed as there are maybe a handful of cars to rent in this remote area. We used Tamarack Rentals. Expect to pay ~ $125 CAD daily and a fistful of cash for refueling. Also, do not expect a luxury type rental in great working order…we used a screwdriver to push the automatic window button on the driver’s side to operate the window, listening to the one CD we could find on repeat as obviously there was no radio!  We learned of Churchill via an article to see the Northern Lights. It snowed…and snowed during our entire trip. We didn’t once see the sun or have a clear night so no Northern Lights for us. Six polar bears though surely were a good consolation!

Champagne Splurge

The tundra buggy. Yes, you can rent a car, but this buggy (think a monster sized monster truck) lets you get within inches of the bears and it’s fitted with an outdoor viewing platform so you aren’t observing them through a window. It’s not cheap (~ $475 CAD for a day trip including lunch) but definitely splurge-worthy. Funnily enough, our fellow tourists had these cannon sized cameras. But…the bears came so close that they had to abandon their tripods and scramble for an iPhone to snap a photo! 

Champagne 'Buzz'worthy

A Halloween visit. Children at night smack dab in the midst of a polar bear migration path could be disastrous. This holiday is the day for the children of Churchill to roam the streets! On this holiday, a perimeter is formed around the town with fire/police/ambulance to safeguard the very small town and helicopters survey overhead so the children can go trick or treating without fear of stumbling upon a hungry polar bear. Of interest, car doors are kept unlocked in case they are needed for a quick escape and there’s no dressing like a ghost so you aren’t mistaken for a bear!

Insider Tips

‘Puffins and Muffins’ was the slogan for our 13 hour road trip to the North. The name originated from our goal to seek out the stocky birds and our car breakfasts of muffins along the trek. We took our long road trip up the East Coast from Rhode Island to Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia in 2016. With the current exchange rate between the USD and CAD, there’s no better time to visit Canada!

West Quoddy Head

Our journey began in Rhode Island and our first leg took us to the halfway mark. Seven hours traveling north brought us all the way to Lubec, Maine. We arrived after dark and barely slept as we wanted to be up early to get out to West Quoddy Head which is the easternmost point in the United States….and home of the first sunrise in the continental US. We arrived a little before 5 am to wait in the dark as the first hints of light illuminated the famous red and white striped lighthouse.

West Quoddy Head, Lubec, Maine The iconic lighthouse now operates with an automated light instead of a lighthouse keeper and it’s absolutely worth the trip. You feel at the edge of the world gazing off into the Atlantic. Few tourists make it out this early so you’ll have the park mostly to yourself. We didn’t stay long enough for the museum to open, but they reportedly also sell certificates so you can boast that you’ve been to the easternmost point. We kept it moving to stick to our travel schedule but made a quick stroll through the charming town of Lubec. They have a few smaller bed and breakfasts, gift shops, art galleries and restaurants. We popped into the Sunrise Cafe to grab some beverages to accompany our muffins!

The Bay of Fundy

Next we rambled up the coast of Maine and then continued onto New Brunswick. In New Brunswick, we drove through Fundy National Park which sits on Goose Bay, the northwestern branch of the Bay of Fundy. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world which can rise and fall an incredible 50 feet in one twelve hour expanse. We made our first stop at the eastern entrance to Fundy National Park at Cape Enrage. There is a large reef that extends south from the Cape which causes the water to become turbulent when the reef is exposed at lower tides and the water is moving rapidly over the reef. It’s a pretty stop with a picturesque lighthouse (built in 1838) and a staircase to walk down to the water where you can literally see the water coming in from the rapidly moving tide. You won’t need to spend much time here unless you stop for lunch at the onsite restaurant, but the views from their towering cliffs are spectacular. Our final New Brunswick stop was the famous Hopewell Rocks, also known as the Flowerpot Rocks. Located on the upper reaches of the Bay of Fundy. These sandstone formations have been geologically carved over time. At low tide, you can walk among the formations and explore tidal pools and coves and at high tide; they appear as tall islands topped by trees. The Canadians have named many of them based on their appearance (Lover’s Arch, Dinosaur Rock, ET, etc). They have well kept trails and it’s a super easy walk to get to the formations…a nice leg stretch on our journey! We skipped the tourist filled restaurant there and headed 10 minutes away to the Cinnamon Soul Cafe which had some terrific sandwiches. It will take about 4 hours to get from Quoddy Head to Hopewell Rocks without stops…but I would factor in 3 hours for all your photo stops. If you’ve followed our itinerary though, you were up at sunrise! 

Prince Edward Island

Cavendish, PEI Our final driving leg took us the last 3 hours to Prince Edward Island. You’ll take the Confederation Bridge, an 8 mile long expanse that spans the narrowest part of the Northumberland Strait, separating the island from the mainland. Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province though the most densely populated. It only takes 3 hours to drive from tip to tip but it’s unspoiled scenery, rolling farmlands, and rocky red shores pack a punch over the 139 miles. Of course, PEI is well known to many of us through the eyes of Anne of Green Gables, the fictional spirited redheaded heroine of Lucy Maud Montgomery’s classic book. I confess I read all of her tales repeatedly as a child and her presence is definitely felt in many facets of PEI life.  After our long day of driving, we checked into The Great George Hotel in PEI’s capital of Charlottetown. It’s a boutique hotel made of 54 suites spread across 17 restored heritage buildings dating back to the mid 1840’s. Charlottetown itself is modern, safe, and charming…we used it as our base to explore PEI. You’ll definitely want to spend a few hours rambling through the cobblestone streets. Victoria Row (The Row) is lined with red brick buildings and in the summer, it’s closed to traffic so you can grab a table outside or head to a rooftop bar for views of the city. It’s known for being a culinary powerhouse and especially so for seafood. 

Anne of Green Gables

Anne of Green Gables Heritage Place You could easily spend a week or more exploring the relaxing PEI, or even just Charlottetown, but we did a little over a day of highlights as Nova Scotia beckoned. However, we couldn’t miss a stop at Anne of Green Gables’s famed home. Located in Cavendish, PEI, Green Gables Heritage Place is visited by thousands of tourists each year who come to find the green gabled farmhouse and surrounding woodlands. There’s an Anne onsite marvelously in character who dutifully posed for a curtsy photo with my husband. From the farmhouse, we meandered along Prince Edward Island National Park Drive which encompasses the island’s rocky northern coastline. We drove the segment from Cavendish to North Rustico admiring the red towering cliffs along the sandy beaches. Everyone recommended Blue Mussell Cafe to dine in North Rustico and we would also highly recommend a stop there! They don’t take reservations but it’s a fine view of North Rustico Harbor to wait a bit for your table. Our other dining recommendation is the Point Prim Chowderhouse at sunset. This one definitely needs a reservation! They are located at the end of the road near the Point Prim Lighthouse, Canada’s oldest lighthouse, about a 45 minute drive from Charlottetown. They offer spectacular views of the tidal pools surrounding Point Prim and you can enjoy fresh seafood on their outdoor deck. We loved sipping a cocktail and watching the sun dip into the ocean. Our time in PEI was much too short. If able, I’d advise up to a week there in the summer as it is beautiful and filled with quintessential summer activities.

Burntcoat Head Park

We left Charlottetown and finally crossed in Nova Scotia! We traveled 3 hours from PEI to Burntcoat Head Park. This park boasts the highest tides in the world and it’s backed up by a Guinness World Record! It’s average tide is 47.5 feet with an extreme range of 53.6 feet. Twice daily, the Bay of Fundy fills and recedes 160 billion tons of water. We arrived here at low tide and explored the ocean floor and tidal pools taking many pictures of the area that would be flooded with 50 feet of water a mere 6 hours later. We would recommend that you see the Park at both low and high tide. After our low tide exploration, we drove to Avondale Sky Winery (about an hour away) to fill some of the gap. It was an enjoyable few hours with a little wine tasting, vineyard wandering and delicious lunch. On the way to the winery, we also popped into the Frieze and Roy General Store, which is Canada’s oldest continually run general store. Some interesting antiques to view but the lunch they had here at their small counter was pretty terrible. We rarely write bad reviews but the customer service and food was our worst experience of the year. We threw it out and were fortunately rewarded for this decision by having a great experience at the winery in an idyllic outdoor setting. As our 6 hours drew to a close, we headed back to the park and it was pretty amazing to see how rapidly the tide had covered the very ocean floor we’d explored hours earlier. We took some photos in the same spot as before and afters and the tide change is dramatic! To note, there are several locations in the area that offer river rafting on the tidal bore…this definitely looked intriguing but given our limited clothing for our week long trip and the mud covered photos we saw, we took a pass. Might be a fun adventure though!

Cape Breton

Our next destination brought us further into Nova Scotia with a goal of driving the coast of Cape Breton along the Cabot Trail. We set up a base at Cabot Shores. I’ll confess this lodging choice was not a great one and we would not recommend it. We stumbled upon it on Airbnb and the adorable appearing yurts seemed unique. However, the reality was that they were MUCH smaller than they appeared in the photos, had a bit of a musty smell, and the lodging tried to overcharge for everything. A ‘free’ pitcher of warm tap water was provided, but they wouldn’t give ice, firewood, or refill the pitcher without charging you. The communal bathroom facilities were also pretty lackluster. Our main complaint though was that the yurt had no way to lock so we essentially repacked and locked our belongings in our trunk each day. In retrospect, instead of choosing one base accommodation, we would recommend a couple lodging options along Cape Breton so you aren’t backtracking each day as you meander along. While we didn’t stay at the Keltic Lodge at the Highlands, we did drive through on our way along the Cabot Trail and it looked well maintained with breathtaking views…we definitely thought about abandoning that yurt and making a move! There isn’t much to eat nearby but we did enjoy a little homey place called “Simply Pizza” which unsurprisingly served no frills pizza which was very good and much better than eating at the yurt. 

The tiny yurt

Puffins!

Before we set out for the Cabot Trail in earnest, we aimed to fulfill our mission of seeing puffins. We opted for the Bird Island Puffin Tour. This tour runs from May to mid September. Puffins are migratory sea birds and spend the majority of the year at sea feeding. In the spring and summer, they gather in colonies on the coasts of the North Atlantic to breed. During this time, their beaks turn a flashy orange color which is great for your puffin pics! However, many companies we researched stopped their tours at the end of August…we should have payed a little closer attention to that. We visited in early September, but by that time, the puffins had mostly moved on. There were only 2 mating pairs left which fortunately we did see from a distance. In the peak season though, hundreds of birds fill the island. This short tour (about an hour and a half) was still worthwhile though at $50. 

Skyline Trail

Our next endeavor was the Cabot Trail. This is a 185 mile loop around the northern tip of Nova Scotia. The western and eastern portions have scenic views of the rocky coastline and ocean. The northern section passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park with the famed Skyline Trail. Finally, the Southern section passes through the Margaree River valley and Bras d’Or Lake. It’s a gorgeous drive and you could do it in one day though as I mentioned above, a lodging stop along the way would likely be better. Though there are numerous hikes along the route, if you are going to do only one, I’d go for the Skyline Trail. This is a relatively easy 2 hour hike on French Mountain and at the halfway point of the trail, there are viewing platforms that afford sweeping views of the famous Cabot Trail roadway and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Moose sighting are common and we spied a sleeping moose at a close distance. Who knew moose slept lying down? We also tried our luck whale watching with Dixon’s Zodiac Seafari where you board a smaller 12 passenger zodiac and whip along the shores of Cape Breton. We spotted 2 minke whales at a distance but it was still exhilarating zipping along the coast on a sun filled day.

Halifax

Our final leg of our whirlwind Nova Scotia tour was Halifax. Halifax combines historic charm with plenty of modern flourishes. It’s a harbor front city that I think is best explored on foot as you can wander the streets and harborfront stumbling upon numerous and shops. The dining scene is plentiful. We tried our luck at the Bicycle Thief with an amazing patio steps from the water with delicious food they describe as “North American food with Italian soul.” We also has a nightcap at the livelier Split Crow Pub, Nova Scotia’s Original Tavern with some great live music. Besides enjoying some great dining and browsing the harborfront, we also hiked up to the Halifax Citadel set on a prominent hill overlooking the city. It consists of a series of forts that protected the harbor and the views are worth a quick stop.

Peggy's Cove

Our farewell to Nova Scotia was at the famous Peggy’s Cove, a quaint fishing village located approximately an hour from Halifax. This very small village houses the famous Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse which may be the most photographed lighthouse in all of Canada. Many artists call this cove home and there are various local galleries and giftshops. It does get a little crowded on a summer day, so I’d arrive early to escape the tour buses and enjoy the peaceful views of the lighthouse and the mighty Atlantic. On your way to or from Peggy’s Cove, I’d advise a cookie stop at the White Sails Bakery!  This weeklong trip involved our usual bustle from location to location and we did get a preview of stunning PEI and Nova Scotia. Though, this trip might be a better place to hunker down for a few days in one spot and just soak in the abundant views and relax! 

Champagne Splurge

This trip was decidedly one of our more frugal trips. No pricey airfare, no luxurious accommodations and with the exchange rate, our dining was a pretty great bargain as well. If we had to do it again, we’d splurge for the Keltic Lodge or another place with gorgeous views along Cape Breton! 

Champagne "Buzz"worthy

The CAT ferry operates between Bar Harbor, Maine and Nova Scotia. I think the drive is spectacular but you only need one way to experience it. It might be nice to take the ferry back home to shave a little time off your drive. 

Insider Tips

(This is part 4 of our 4 part Alaska series) 200 miles south of Anchorage, we reached Homer. Homer is a very quirky place in Alaska, known as either the “End of the Road” as it ends the Sterling Highway in Alaska or the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World.” The town of 5000 is made of a funky mix of fisherman, artists, and foodies and the atmosphere is decidedly friendly and laidback. Not a lot of tourist traps are here, but authentic restaurants and artsy boutiques perfect for the final 5 days of our 2 weeks Alaskan journey. We stayed at the Kenai Peninsula Suites which I cannot more highly recommend. They have a simply stunning location on a cliff overlooking the Kachemak Bay and their lodging consists of either cabins or these very unique bunkers. These bunkers are underground cabins that you enter from above and descend into the cabin built into a grassy bluff. Once inside, a huge floor to ceiling slider grants views of the blue waters of the Kachemak where you can spot whale spots right from your bedroom. We stayed in the Bear’s Den which also included a kitchenette and outdoor grill. 

Homer Spit

Our first exploration in Homer was the Homer Spit…it is a 4.5 mile expanse of land jutting into the Kachemak Bay. It’s a fantastic place for a stroll with restaurants, galleries, and places to hop onto a fishing charter. It’s most famous landmark is the Salty Dawg Saloon. The interior of the saloon has every inch covered with signed one dollar bills and tourists, including those that don’t even drink, stop by to see the authentic Homer feel. We definitely made a pit stop for a beer and then browsed some of the local boutiques. Homer is an artist’s enclave and you can find a lot of local art throughout the Spit. Definitely stray off the main road and onto the beach as the tides on the Homer Spit can fluctuate markedly, with an average of 16 feet.the pebbly beach at low tide unearths all kinds of marine life in the tidal pools, and if you look out on the bay you can see whales and otters. 

Kachemak Bay State Park

After our time on the Spit, we caught a boat across the Kachemak Bay the next day to Kachemak Bay State Park. This massive park covers 80 miles but in our day trip we opted for the 4.5 mile hike from Glacier Spit to Glacier Lake. We used Mako’s Water Taxi which operates the 30 minute water taxi from Homer over to the Park. We detoured from the beautiful woodland hike to cross a river via the Grewingk tram just for the experience of operating our first hand tram. One of us got in the metal basket while the other pulled the rope to send the tram slowly over the rushing river. Once at the glacier, we unpacked our lunches and had the blue glacial waters speckled with chunks of ice calved from the Grewingk Glacier as our backdrop. We felt as though we had this park entirely to ourselves as we saw no other people the entire day we were threre. After lunch, we connected with the Saddle Trail that led us to a protected cove where our water taxi picked us back up to travel back to Homer with a few lovable otters along the way. Kachemak Bay was amazing…from the moment our water taxi left, the quiet was overwhelming. Sitting on the beach of the lake with no one else in the world surrounded by mountains on all sides was magical.  Our other days in Homer, we visited a few other local spots. We loved  2 Sisters Bakery where we often grabbed breakfast and a few cookies.The Homer Brewing Company is definitely worth a visit. They have a low key brewery, cool t-shirts, and often have an oyster food truck just outside. Also, the Bear Creek Winery is a small winery with 2 main brands, Bear Creek and its sister wine, Glacier Bear. They both focus on Alaskan grown fruits to create unique blends involving fruits like rhubarb, strawberry, and blueberry. Tastings are offered from 12 to 6 most days and it was a delicious few hours. We also made a stop at the local theater for the annual Homer Documentary Film Festival where we saw the film The Great Alone about the Iditarod. The festival usually runs at the the end of September. Most nights though, we relaxed at the Kenai Peninsula Suites where they have a hot tub and a fire pit looking out onto the Kachemak Bay…not a bad way to end a day…and Homer wasn’t a bad place to wrap up our ambitious 2 weeks in Alaska. After hopping to a new destination every night or two, it was very relaxing to wind down and spend a final five days in Homer. They say that even if you see a million acres a day, you would still need over a year to see all of Alaska…so I guess we’ll have to plan a trip back!