Hass Idriss | Echoes of the Abyss

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Hass Idriss | Echoes of the Abyss

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Joli Poli | Barcelona Fashion Week 2025
Nozomi Ishiguro Sleeveless Hooded Jacket
Vintage Alexander McQueen
Joan Collection
Brocade Jacket
Brocade Side Bustle Skirt
1998

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Tw: Death, Mourning
Four stages of mourning dress worn by Matthäus Schwarz, 1519/20
When his father died in 1519, Matthäus Schwarz entered a mourning period that lasted almost half a year. His first mourning dress consisted of a hooded cloak covering his whole body, including his face. As time went on, his dress changed and revealed more and more of his face, symbolising the approaching end of his grief. 5 years later, Matthäus would have to wear mourning dress again - when his master Jakob Fugger died in 1525.
Painting from Matthäus Schwarz´ fashion book ("Trachtenbuch"), depicting him at the age of 23/24.
Revisiting one of my favourites: Silk doublet of Duke Moritz of Sachsen-Lauenburg (1551-1612) As my original entry about this doublet continues to be one of my most popular posts, I decided to write an updated version shining a light on its construction and use. When this doublet was listed right after the Duke´s death in 1612, it was called a "Sommerwams" or summer doublet. This name most likely referred to the construction: as it´s mostely just made of thin satin and linen (and elaborately slashed), it was the perfect choice for hot summer days. As green garments with huge sleeves were also a popular choice for riding and hunting, there is a high chance that the Duke used his doublet for this purpose. The only reinforced parts of the doublet are the collar (which was stiffened with coarse linen) and the peascod belly, which was padded with cotton. Also, dense wool was used to reinforce the fabric around the button holes and under the skirts. The doublet is not only adorned with several yards of metallic trim, but also with decorative silk bows placed around the waist. While they mimic ties used to connect the doublet to the breeches, they are completely decorative; doublet and breeches were connected with metal hooks and eyes. A hidden pocket in the left sleeve could´ve been used to store personal belongings. While the Duke preferred gilded silver buttons on his other doublets, his summer doublets are made with silk-covered buttons made of wood. As the garment is very lightweight, heavy metal buttons would´ve put too much stress on the thin fabric. Stored at the Historisches Museum Hannover.
Hullo! I'm fascinated by the history of knitting - a lot of the historical garments extant are incredibly fine and very interesting to view up close. Do you have a favourite knitted garment or fragment from the 16th/17th c?
I´ll have to go with the knitted Hose of Elector August of Saxony that I already showed here some time ago. Not only do they look fantastic - they also debunk the old myth that all Hose and breeches in 16th century Europe were high waisted. The knitting is incredibly fine, I can´t imagine the work it took to make them.
Photos by the SKD in Dresden, Germany.
Sketches for doublet and breeches, Italian (late 16th Century) Since the 19th century, some experts assume that the tailors of the past just tacked squares of fabric together instead of actually planning a garment by taking measurements and drafting elaborate patterns. These sketches, depicting a pair of trunk hose and a doublet, show the care that went into planning a late 16th century suit. All important lengths and widths were noted by the tailor, just as a modern tailor would do. The sketches are part of extensive records created by servants of the famous Medici family, listing all clothes and other personal belongings of the family members. Photos from the Archivio di Stato di Firenze, Italy.
Knights of AntÄpolis, for a short story

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I thiiinkkkk I'm done
how many books have you read this year and what was the weirdest one?
Finished # 40 today.
And weirdest is hard to define because I picked up a few bizarre ones this year.
âSky Daddyâ by Kate Folk, about a woman sexually attracted to airplanes. Most bizarre concept of this list but a really straightforward plot. I picked it up as a joke and wound up loving it.
âFaunaâ by Christiane Vadnais, an eco/climate horror collection of short stories that are interconnected. Saw it described as a mashup of Cronenberg, HG Wells, Kafka, and Lovecraft andâŚyeah. Accurate. Not my favorite read of the year but interesting nonetheless.
âThe Hikeâ by Drew Magary. Donât want to spoil too much, but itâs like a surreal fantasy quest with video game logic, and the MC has to figure everything out through trial and error.
Dreamcore
The World and Justice
Well that would be nice, wouldn't it?
Detail from the ceiling of the Arena Chapel, in Padua, magnificently adorned with Giotto frescoes in ca. 1305.
One of the many beautiful images featured in our essay âPrimary Sources: A Natural History of the Artistâs Paletteâ by @philipcball â https://publicdomainreview.org/essay/primary-sources

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The way that most of Conan Doyleâs Sherlock Holmes storiesâ most horrible villains are rich dudes that are abusive to women, in a time such as the 1880âs, compels me.
Thereâs a whole subset of Sherlock Holmes stories that could be labeled Asshole Guys Try to Control Womenâs Money.
Yup, thereâs a huge number of times where Sherlock Holmes is the ONLY person to take a young womanâs complaint or worry seriously and finds out someone is up to some serious evil. Holmes also shows a lot of compassion and empathy with the victims over and over again. (This is why I find âSecretly a womanâ or âTransâ Holmes headcanons much more convincing than âsociopathâ Holmes.)
I am never going to shut up about how much I specifically love The Adventure of The Copper Beeches because it is literally Sherlock Holmes listening to a young lady he does not know except as a potential client, agreeing with her that a potential job she has interviewed for that she thinks is SUPER SKETCHY is, indeed, sketchy as fuck and when she says sheâs probably gonna take the job anyways because the money is good and she needs it going âOKAY I GUESS but for the love of god please write to us so we know youâre okay we will literally drop everything and jump on a train if you want us toâ.
The job turns out to indeed be sketchy as fuck, she writes to them, Holmes and Watson drop everything and jump on a train when she asks them to. I read this story for the first time when I was twelve and it made a HUGE impression.
This is also the basis for a lot of speculation about Holmesâ family life. The idea that he has been a victim of abuse, or his mother was abused (or even murdered by his father.) Thereâs definitely SOMETHING that makes him very aware of how dangerous isolated families can be, and the dark things that can happen behind closed doors. Plus, of course, the motivation to devote himself to stopping crime. And yes, so much of it is of the personal type.Â
dude see this is one aspect of the original books i NEVER understand why modern remakes (cough cough) donât go all in on. Like, in the 21th c we HAVE all the dumb forensic shit that made Victorian Holmes stand out, but we STILL DONâT HAVE uhâŚ.you know, compassion for women and minorities, or the willingness to believe them, adequate community support for domestic violence or hate crimes, etc. etc. which youâd think is exactly where a renegade consulting detective would come in handy. A good modern day Sherlock Holmes remake, instead of trying to convince us that Holmes is some super genius for being better than fingerprint analysis or whatever, could have him just beâŚa good person who helps out people the police canât and wonât help. There you go. Thatâs how to write a relevant modern Holmes.
One thing that annoys me is how much the BBC version of Sherlock (and the fandom around it) focus on police cases or cold cases. In the stories, Holmesâ bread and butter cases had fuck-all to do with the police and in a few stories, he actively works around/against them, or outright lies to them. Of the many, many things I wish that show had done differently, this is one is particularly obnoxious since itâs such a gimme.
There were very few actual murder cases in the Canon, and Holmes handled them either one of two ways:
Option one: The murder victim was innocent while the killer was an abusive bastard, see Speckled Band. Conclusion, arrest and have the killer charged (Or in the case of Speckled Band, indirectly murder him yourself then shrug and go home)
Option two: The victim was murdered to protect someone that the victim was abusing, or for vengeance, see Boscombe Valley, Devilâs Foot, Abbey Grange. Conclusion, Oops, I donât know who the killer is, I am suddenly incompetent, oh look a pheasant.
#my favorite murder in holmes canon#is when they straight up witness a lady murder her blackmailer#do nothing except destroy his other blackmail material#and then straight up lie to lestrade about it#sherlock holmes#more of this in modern adaptations pls (via @cactusspatz )
Letâs not forget the time Holmes helps a young woman whoâs being catfished by her own stepfather to steal her inheritance, and when the villain sneers that the law canât touch him, Holmes grabs a horsewhip out of sheerest chivalry.
So, the most canon-accurate iteration of Sherlock Holmes in the last few decades is actually Benoit BlancâŚ.
I think itâs also important to note, and complicates our ideas about what the highly patriarchal/misogynistic society of 19th century England looked like, that these stories SOLD
they were POPULAR
the Victorians LIKED reading about women who won out over shitty men in their lives, even when that plotline reaffirmed a womanâs power and agency or put an active sexist in his place (ie Irene Adler besting Holmes)
which is fascinating in light of. you know. [gestures broadly at all of Victorian gender dynamics, laws, etc.]
So yes, Benoit Blanc is the best modern Sherlock.
doing research in the field of humanities is interesting because there isnât necessary this paradigm of the most recently published studies are by definition the best that you get in the hard sciences, like sometimes that book published in 1909 really continues to be the best foundational text about 1590s amsterdam, but then again sometimes iâm reading a text published in the 60s and it starts describing italian culture as âorientalâ with no further discussion and iâm like hmmm maybe i should find something a little more current