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In order to keep cucumbers fresh for as long as possible, housewives use a variety of methods, including some unusual methods. Let us list some of how to keep cucumbers fresh.

After the vegetable season is over, put a plate of fresh homemade cucumbers on the plate, which will surprise any family and guests. And if you choose cucumbers suitable for long-term preservation and put them in the "right" position, you will succeed. Experienced gardeners say that there are many ways to store cucumbers, among which cucumbers can remain fresh and crispy for a long time.

1.Which cucumber keeps longer The cucumbers you are about to store for a long time should be harvested recently from the garden. It is best to choose small and medium-sized cucumbers, which are ripe but not overripe. Cucumbers should have no damage, no spots, and dense skin. In addition, they must be shaken off the ground and dried a bit. Overripe cucumbers are more suitable for harvesting seeds. But remember, not all cucumbers are suitable for this.

Note In most cases, it is not recommended to wash cucumbers before long-term storage, because vegetables will deteriorate faster if they come in contact with water. It should be noted that we are only talking about homemade cucumbers, because vegetables bought in markets or shops may have been preserved for a long time, and there are some special varieties of cucumbers suitable for pickling and canning. Cucumbers should be stored separately from other ripe fruits because many fruits release ethylene, which accelerates the ripening and deterioration of cucumbers. If you are not sure how long your cucumbers will last, they are perfect for winter salads.

2. How to store fresh cucumbers at home There are several traditional methods to extend the life of fresh cucumbers at home. However, this storage time will not be too long: from a few days to two weeks. For example, you can put cucumbers in a plastic bag and wrap them in wet gauze, but keep them open-this will keep the vegetables "normal" for about 10 days. You can wrap each cucumber in a napkin before putting the fruit in the bag. In this way, the vegetables can be kept for two weeks. If you "plant" the tails of cucumbers in a bowl of cold water, it will keep them fresh for 3-4 weeks. Indeed, in this case, the water must be changed every day.

Note The resourceful housewife also knows another method, which is to store cucumbers in the refrigerator for a relatively long time. Cucumbers should be rinsed with cold water, dried, and processed with a little beaten egg white. It is important that the place where the fruit is placed should be as far away as possible from the freezer because a temperature around 0°C will promote the formation of mucus on the fruit. If you do not store cucumbers in the refrigerator, but in the cellar or basement, you can put the cucumbers in a wet cloth to increase the shelf life of the cucumbers. This can extend the life of cucumbers by at least 10 days. During the same period, you can keep the fruits fresh if you put them in paper bags or wooden boxes and send them to a dark room with a temperature of 6-8°C. Another way to get delicious crispy cucumbers is to pickle them. But for this, it is recommended to use cucumbers that are entirely bee-pollinated varieties.

3. How to store fresh cucumbers in other ways Let's talk about the less traditional cucumber storage method. Experts do not promise to comment on the terms of this storage but believe that it is an order of magnitude longer than the conventional method described above. If you have a well in your yard, cucumbers can be conveniently stored there. To do this, place the cucumbers in a dry bucket and cover them with a cloth. Lower the bucket into the well so that it slightly touches the water surface. In the absence of wells, natural oil reservoirs are also suitable. In order to store the cucumber in this way, place it in a synthetic string bag with small compartments, install the load from below, fully immerse the cucumber in the water, but at the same time secure the string bag firmly on the shore. The alternative to water is dry sand. In this case, put the cucumber in a clay pot, water it with clean sand (should be washed and dried beforehand), and then bury the container in the ground. If the latter action cannot be taken, put the vegetable container in the cellar or basement. Vinegar can also help cucumbers stay in their original state longer. Before use, rinse the vegetables with clean water, dry them, and put them in a strainer or sieve. Pour the vinegar (9%) into a clean enamel bowl with a larger diameter so that the sieve or strainer placed there does not touch the liquid. Put the lid on the container and store it in a cool room. Regularly "check" the stored vegetables. According to netizens, the cucumber in this case can be stored for at least one month.

Note If you use vinegar to store cucumbers, be sure to restrict access to the room where the fruit is stored, especially for children. The most unusual of the suggested methods is to store cucumbers in cabbage. To achieve this goal, cucumbers are first planted in the middle of the late-ripening cabbages. Afterward, the inner leaves of the cauliflower should be carefully put together to avoid injury. After the Chinese cabbage is harvested, the ripe cucumbers still remain in it. According to the vegetable gardener, they can be stored in a suitable cellar or basement until spring. If you feel that the idea of long-term storage of cucumbers with the above method is still weird, you can always put them together. Have you ever stored cucumbers at home for a long time? What method did you choose and what was the effect?

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Did you know that among the various greenhouse crops, the last place is not occupied by watermelon? So how to grow watermelon in greenhouse? This article will take you through it.

Of course, this type of cultivation is not for production purposes and is not grown in the south, but it shows very good results and quite meets the tastes of brave owners.

However, there are certain differences between the agricultural techniques of greenhouse growing and open field growing, and you need to know the specifics before growing watermelon in a greenhouse.

1. HOW TO PLANT WATERMELON SEEDLINGS In mid-April, it's time to plant watermelon seeds. To do this, prepare small, preferably peat pots of 10cm (3.93inch) diameter and a nutrient-rich soil mixture (add potassium sulfate and wood ash to the existing soil).

Place 1-2 watermelon seeds soaked in warm water into each glass until 2-3cm (0.78-1.18inch) deep and place on a south window.

Although seeds germinate at temperatures above 17°C (62.6°F), indoor temperatures should be between 25 and 35°C (77-95°F) during the day and between 18 and 20°C (64.4-68°F) at night for efficient plant formation.

For the entire growth period of watermelon seedlings, it is best to make one, preferably two, fertilization applications using a mineral fertilizer complex, the first of which should be made two weeks after sowing.

As the plants grow, the pots are moved away so that the seedlings do not come into contact with each other and the leaves. Once 3-5 true leaves have formed on the young plants, they can be planted in the greenhouse. This usually occurs after 25-35 days.

2. GROWING WATERMELONS IN A GREENHOUSE Watermelons can be planted in mid-May if the greenhouse is heated, but if not, it is worth waiting until the outside stable temperature reaches 20-25°C (68-77°F).

Seedlings are planted in pre-prepared monopolies, 40-50 cm (15.7-19.6inch) apart from each other, 20 cm (7.87inch) high, and 40-50 cm (15.7-19.6inch) wide. In this case, the plants are not buried.

An important nuance is the height of the greenhouse and the humidity level maintained in it. For the comfort of watermelons, the humidity indicator should be kept at 60-70% and the height of the greenhouse roof should be 1.8-2m (5.9-6.5foot).

3. GREENHOUSE WATERMELON CARE Due to the long fibrous roots of watermelons, they must be tied up. Therefore, you will need to wrap the weedy ends of the plants counterclockwise around the lattice as you walk around the bed each day.

Also, in greenhouse cultivation, watermelons are formed one stem at a time, so any watermelons (side shoots, flowers) that form to a height of 40cm (15.7inch) should be pulled out.

Sixty days after planting, the plants start flowering. The first to appear on them are male flowers, and 10 days later - female flowers.

During this period, it is very important to perform pollination. In areas with a warm climate, for this purpose regularly open the windows of the greenhouse, giving the opportunity to do their work insects, in northern regions, pollination is performed manually.

To do this, it is necessary to pluck the male flowers and connect their stamens to the female flowers. How to distinguish between male and female flowers? A small watermelon flower may be seen first on the female flower.

If it has been pollinated, the ovary will start to grow and bend downwards, if not - the flower will stretch upwards. Here, too, you have to pay attention.

And when the watermelon starts to grow to the size of a plum, count 7 leaves up from each leaf and cut off the top of the stalk. If only one fruit is ripening on a plant, it is best to consider the selection, and if there are several berries on the stalk, the harvest will be small.

When the watermelons reach tennis ball size, place a grid on each one and tie it to the top trellis. If this is not done, the plants will drop in weight from growth. Within a month after the ovaries are formed - you can harvest.

One more thing, the leaves of watermelons do not thin, their cut structures do not shade the fruit, but the constant appearance of side shoots strongly delays the moment of ripening - they are periodically pulled out.

In addition, watermelons do not like weeds growing on their roots, so it is important to monitor the cleanliness of the greenhouse.

Also, if the fruit is formed at the base of the stem - not tied, but laid on the ground - a board should be placed under the watermelon, otherwise, it is likely to cause its rotting.

4. WATERING AND FERTILIZING Despite the common belief that watermelon likes to be watered, it is actually a drought-tolerant plant and it needs to be watered very carefully.

It needs water most during the first period of growth, before and at the beginning of flowering.

It is best watered with warm water, 10 liters per 8-10 plants. And when the fruit reaches the size indicated in the variety description, watering stops immediately.

It is good to carry out and fertilize at the same time as the weekly watering. To do this, you need to mix 1 tbsp of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, 1 tbsp of superphosphate, 1 tbsp of potassium sulfate, and 2 tbsp of any micronutrient fertilizer.

Fertilize no more than 4 times in total, just until the berries reach variety size.

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Planting seedlings is a pleasant but not easy job. For various reasons, seedlings can pull out, turn yellow or develop diseases. And each stage of growth needs to meet its own specific conditions. The following considers the main problems faced by gardeners when using the seedling method and protecting seedlings for growing plants, as well as methods and tools to help prevent or eliminate these problems.

THE MAIN PROBLEMS WITH SEEDLINGS The most common difficulties that await gardeners when planting protecting seedlings are the following. 1. low germination rate. 2. Pulling seedlings to grow. 3. drying out. 4. Falling over. 5. yellowing. 6. Burning. 7. slow growth or stunting. 8. appearance of pests and diseases.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN PLANTING SEEDLINGS The above problems are closely related to the agronomic techniques used to grow protecting seedlings. Whether growing vegetable crops, flowers, or berries from seeds, there are some general rules and requirements on which the quality of nursery material depends. These rules can only be adjusted to the specific plant species and varieties.

1. Sowing time When sowing seeds, always check the recommended sowing date on the package. Plants planted too early will be stretched, weakened, and more susceptible to pests and diseases. Of course, you can't plant too late, either, because you can't even count on a harvest.

2. Preparing the soil Properly prepared soil provides almost half the success. You can buy ready-made soil or you can make your own. You should pay attention to pH, moisture permeability, air permeability, nutrient properties, and other nuances.

In any case, the soil should be sterilized before sowing and should also be well moistened 2-3 days before sowing. The temperature of the prepared soil should not be lower than 18°C.

3. Seed treatment Before sowing, the seeds are treated with a special disinfectant and Germinator. What does this procedure give us? 1. disease-causing organisms are killed. 2. The enzyme system inside the seed is activated, so the germination of the seed gets a powerful energy boost. 3. Seeds germinate earlier and more friendly. 4. The pathogens are more resistant to external influences. 5. Stronger root system and stronger above-ground parts compared to untreated seeds.

4. Sowing Poor quality protecting seedlings can be caused by bad soil (contaminated or too heavy to germinate), standing water in the seedling box, or lack of nutrients. The depth of embedding is very important. Some plants need only 0.2inch (0.5 cm) of soil to cover the seeds, others need 0.4-0.8inch (1-2 cm) of soil, and some plants do not need to be covered with soil at all and are sown in a shallow layer. Attention should be paid to the sowing density: the thicker the seedling, the more likely it is to be strained and lacerated. If it happens that the plants have sprouted very densely, the weakest plants need to be thinned out. The rest will get more light, air, and nutrients, and thus be healthier and stronger.

5. Light The ideal light time for protecting seedlings is 12 hours. If the seeds are sown early (February or March), more light is needed in the morning and evening, otherwise, they may elongate or turn yellow. Also, direct sunlight is very active in mid-spring and protecting seedlings can get burned during the day. To prevent stress, you can cover them with plain paper at such times, or spray them with stress inhibitors.

6. Temperature Most crops should have an air temperature of at least 73-77°F (23-25˚C) during germination. When seedlings emerge, plants should generally be moved to a cooler location-about 64°F (18˚C) and no higher. If the above-ground parts are in a warm environment and the roots of the protecting seedlings are in cold soil, there is an increased risk of cold temperatures, root rot, and black legs.

7. Air humidity and watering Dry air severely affects the growth and quality of seedlings. Prevention methods include regular spraying of seedlings with water (to solve the problem of dry air) and anti-stress medication (as an aid). The procedure is carried out in the morning or at night so that plants are not scalded by dripping water. The same goes for watering: constantly wetting the soil can lead to black feet, rotten roots, and dead protecting seedlings, especially in the early stages of germination. You can use a syringe or rubber ball to water the soil.

8. Fertilization Lack of nutrients can manifest itself in the yellowing of protecting seedlings, stunted growth, and even death. Without waiting for the appearance of macro and micronutrient deficiencies, fertilize 2-3 times throughout the seedling period. The first - at the stage of 2-4 true leaves, the third - a week before planting in the ground, the second - in between them.

9. Picking Not all plants need to be picked. However, it is strong pressure for those who need to do the procedure. After picking, the plant stops growing, sometimes for quite a long time (for example, eggplant can "freeze" for a month). You can remove the stress by using growth regulators to restore the plant's physiological functions as soon as possible and bring it back to "life" quickly.

10. Diseases and pests Seedlings are particularly weakened and vulnerable to diseases and pests (spider mites, aphids). Among the latter, the most common are: various root rot diseases, fusarium, and blackleg disease. In addition to daily inspection of the protecting seedlings, the temperature and humidity of the soil should be monitored, and the immunity of the plants should be increased by special means. Decontamination of seeds and soil before planting is important for prevention.

11. Planting in the soil Seedlings need to be hardened 10-14 days before they go into the soil. In addition to picking outdoors, it is advisable to increase the resistance of seedlings for future transplanting. Different plants react differently to "moving" to a new place. Some "wake up" quickly, some barely notice the change and continue to grow well, and some are sick for a long time. Prepare your seeds for planting by spraying or watering with a special product.

HOW TO MAKE SEEDLINGS HEALTHY AND STRONG Some people can say: "I don't use anything to water so it grows", "Why so many means, it's chemistry", etc. But we also buy formula for our children, enriched with vitamins, vitamin-mineral complexes, for example, to prevent colds. The same goes for plants, they need our support in the early stages of their growth and development, which will reward them later with a healthy and abundant harvest.

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Blackberry is similar to raspberry except that its fruit first turns red and then charcoal black. To me, they have a more interesting taste than raspberries, but the seeds are more visible on the teeth. Thanks to the work of plant breeders and the completely thornless varieties they have produced, and thanks to travelers and tourists who have brought new foreign varieties with high-quality fruit to our continent, blackberries are becoming more and more popular and can be seen more and more often on garden plots. However, blackberries tend to grow well only on a trellis, which must be erected in the second year of planting on the plot. The trellis can be placed in the most primitive place. If you have a dozen varieties of blackberries on the plot, plant them with a distance of 6.5 feet (2 meters) between rows so that they do not interfere with each other.

At the edge of the rows, hammer in ordinary metal tubes of 5-6inch (12-15 cm) diameter, make holes in them, and stretch strong wire through them. From the second year on, you can hang blackberry shoots from the wire or twine. Throughout the summer you will be harvesting blackberries and when autumn comes you will be wondering what to do next and how to caring for blackberries! Don't worry: before you remove the blackberry from its stand and place it on a bed of soft leaves or wrap it up with it, you need to prune it hygienically and fertilize it, combined with hydration and moisturizing.

PRUNING BLACKBERRIES There are many subtleties here. You must prune in such a way as to ensure the full growth and development of your blackberry plants later on. Of course, the first order of business is to remove all broken, dry, diseased shoots (no doubt about it), but what's next? Next, you need to relentlessly cut off all shoots that have already borne fruit this year. However, if you are a lucky resident of the southern United States, it is possible not to cut them off completely, but to shorten them to a height of 5 feet (1.5 meters).

All other blackberry shoots, in the current season, unfortunately, our harvest did not satisfy us and you need to prune, removing about 6-8inch (15-20 cm). Most likely, this immature part, even under mulch, will start to behave badly: it may freeze, start to rot, and decay. Naturally, after such an event, all the cut blackberry shoots must be taken out of the area and be sure to burn them, the ashes can be put in a bag: it will come in handy. Let her eat a little, but it (we do not tire of repeating) contains potassium and trace elements that can be fed to, for example, houseplants.

FERTILIZING AND WATERING BLACKBERRIES In what order to do these necessary procedures does not matter at all. Fertilize first and then water, or water first, and then spread the fertilizer on the moist soil - the way you think best.

WATERING BLACKBERRIES Watering well is really just hydrating and moisturizing. If someone tells you he doesn't water his blackberries at all and he has a luxurious yield every year, he is either lying or he has never seen a luxurious yield of blackberries at all. In the first year after planting, when there is no trellis yet, you can only pour 3-4 buckets per square meter of soil. This is best done at the beginning of October when the soil is definitely not frozen yet and it is best to loosen it slightly beforehand. But remember, it should only be loosened slightly. The roots of blackberries must not be touched, and if the roots are damaged then they will start to grow and regrow shoots from the ground (usually with thorns, even if the original shoots did not have any thorns at all). Plants that are still on the trellis, that is, the second and later years after planting, will of course need to be watered twice as much. This is fine. The water will soak deep into the soil and freeze slowly, without causing any damage to the roots. And, if there is a provocative winter thaw, the roots are unlikely to respond to it, and this thawing of blackberries will not cause any damage.

FERTILIZING BLACKBERRIES After watering (let's decide to do just that) fertilize. 50 grams per square meter of dry calcium superphosphate and 25 grams per square meter of potassium sulfate have proven to be the best for blackberries in the fall. You can also cover them with humus about 1 inch thick.

Important! Nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied in autumn, as this will stimulate the growth activity of the shoots and all of them will freeze, maybe even in the quilt.

The easiest thing is done, now it is necessary to carefully remove and cover the blackberry bushes from the trellis.

Important! Alas, but absolutely no damage to the blackberries can withstand frosts of a few tens of degrees Fahrenheit without exceeding a few tens of degrees Fahrenheit. Then already begin negative changes in the tissue, especially at the tips of the shoots. There have been cases where temperatures have dropped sharply from above 32°F (0°C) to slightly negative values, but within a very short period of time, e.g. within a few hours, resulting in death or severe frostbite of uncovered blackberry plants.

THE RIGHT TIME TO MULCH BLACKBERRIES The most appropriate time is often the end of October (in the middle of the US) when it has started to freeze and you can't wait for the warmth to arrive. The most dangerous thing is if the mulching will be followed by a week or even two weeks of really high temperatures or even rain, which can lead to blackberry rooting. For annuals, this is not fatal: from the root buds, the branches rejuvenate again like a bird's "phoenix". Of course, the gardener will lose the whole season, and if he makes repeated mistakes, he will lose the second season. Here we must be guided by the indications of the weather stations, which sometimes tell us exactly when a steady cold spell is coming. And while we wait for the cold, you can treat blackberries with a 3% Bordeaux solution to rid the plants of winter stage pests and diseases.

As long as the temperature goes down below 32°F (0°C) and doesn't even rise above 32°F (0°C) during the day, blackberry mulching is very possible. As we have already said, the period for mulching blackberries is usually in late October or early November in the central part of the U.S. However, this is in the middle of the country. If you live farther south, you may not need mulch at all, or even be prohibited (shoots will be prohibited because inside, under mulch, a lot of completely unnecessary moisture accumulates, and if there is too much moisture, you can even start rotting the roots, and then the blackberries will die completely). If you live in the north, then you can start mulching a whole month earlier. Therefore, before you mulch, you need to remember some important rules.

Rule #1: Blackberries can be ruined not only by a winter with no snow at all but also by a provocative thaw where frost suddenly turns to rain. In this case, the buds will freeze to death, so try to use extra, such as dried leaves, in addition to the main shelter, which can "take the hit". Rule #2: Do not rush to cover blackberries and wait for a light but steady frost, otherwise both roots and buds will simply uproot. As we have already mentioned, if you rush to cover, a lot of water will accumulate under it; in fact, a greenhouse effect will occur, which will damage the above-ground parts of the plant and the root system. In addition, due to the excess of water, various fungi and bacteria develop very actively. In this case, the shrub will regrow in spring, only if the above-ground part dies or if the top is a bit podgy, but if the roots are affected, the site will have to be laid again. Rule #3: If you live in a western area where the thermometer doesn't go below 14°F (-10°C) in the winter, forget about mulching or use a single layer of agricultural fabric, which "breathes".

Those who have mulched their grapes will find it easier, while those who have not will find it more difficult. Blackberry branches, very carefully so as not to break, should be removed from their supports, wire, and placed on the surface of the soil that has been taken by frost, and gently pinned to them. If the bush is large, tie them together with twine before laying. To exclude the blowing of blackberries, or at least minimize it, it is necessary to cover the shoots already laid on the surface of the soil with dry leaves (or lay branches on top of them, sprinkled with leaves in advance), and afterward with a soil mulch film, something that should be fixed and not tear the wind. This can be bricks on the edge, crates, plywood, etc.

THE PERFECT MULCHING MATERIAL Gardeners have debated, are debating, and will continue to debate what is the best mulching material for blackberries. Some try to mulch with film, others use agricultural fabrics exclusively, but trust me, whichever way you choose, it still has pros and cons. Take film for example: if you live in the middle of the country, that's fine, but if you're near the south, obviously the temperature changes in the winter can create condensation under the film, leading to the consequences mentioned above. If you have decided to use film, or if you don't have anything else handy, you can use a layer between the plants and the film, for example, a mulch, as in a layer of moss - with double protection: against moisture and against frost. Then there are agro textiles, a relatively new non-woven material that has perfect permeability to water and air (they "breathe"). Even during the thawing period (which occurs in autumn and winter), agro textiles show their good side: they let water pass through and allow it to evaporate.

However, if there is too much water (i.e. active snowmelt in mid-winter), it cannot cope with the evaporation of excess water and it thaws. Therefore, in areas where thawing is active, you better warn yourself and use fir wood, corn, or at least dry leaves covered with twigs or branches. If you have to choose between light and black wool, it is better to choose light wool, because black wool gets very hot in spring (if you live in the city and your blackberries are in a country house, when you go to the country house it will be cooked under black wool). It is recommended for northerners to use sintepon synthetic mulch film, but it should not be placed on the plant, but on pre-layered leaves, dry and free from all kinds of diseases. However, in warm winters with low snow, plants in northern areas may suffer under this type of mulch.

MISTAKES WHEN MULCHING BLACKBERRIES The first mistake: is not appearing under the cover of the poison of mice (believe me, they eat all the buds). The second mistake: is using sawdust as insulation for blackberries. They absorb moisture very quickly, turn into just a block of ice, and then melt very slowly. I personally found a piece of ice as late as July in a pile of sawdust. What's wrong with that? Blackberries don't warm up in the spring, they slowly wilt under the ice and rocks instead. The third mistake: is using straw for mulch. Straw actively attracts rodents, who settle in it, build "apartment buildings" and live there, eating blackberry buds and nibbling on shoots, and in spring it is not easy to remove all the semi-digested winter straw from the site.

The fourth mistake: is delaying the removal of mulch material. Remember to run to the site as soon as the snow melts and the temperature rises to remove the mulching material: a strong frost will not, but a thaw may occur. Make sure you remove the mulching material before the buds on the blackberries swell. Basically, there is nothing particularly complicated: a dozen shrubs, primitive trellis, no less primitive shelter, and the main thing - all the time and at the same time, do not forget the rodents.

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Ammi majus, also known as Queen Anne's lace, can be grown as an annual or biennial plant. It belongs to the Umbelliferae family and has good taproots, bare sturdy stems, and pinnately dissected, lance-shaped leaves. So how to grow Ammi majus? This article provides answers for planting as well as care.

Ammi majus has small, unattractive, and light-colored flowers. They are collected in umbels up to a few inches in diameter. the flowering period is from midsummer to early autumn. The fruits are slightly flattened, side-viewing fruits without anything covering them and smooth. They are quite small, measuring only two and a half millimeters. They ripen in mid-autumn.

INFORMATION ABOUT AMMI MAJUS Ammi majus is a small genus of the Umbelliferae family. It consists of six species of one- and two-year-old herbs native to the Mediterranean coast as well as northern Africa.

Ammi majus has a taproot and an erect, branched stem. The lower leaves are long-petiolate and the upper leaves are short-petiolate. The rich green leaves are dissected into 2-3 tiny lobes. The leaf margin is sharply serrate.

Ammi majus flowers from midsummer to autumn. Small white flowers with five small petals are gathered in large compound inflorescences. The peculiar smell attracts insects, including bees. The honey is fragrant and slightly red in color.

After flowering, the fruits appear as laterally flattened, lamellar fruits. They look very attractive and split into two lobes when ripe.

BENEFITS OF AMMI MAJUS Ammi majus belongs to the category of medicinal plants. It has been used for medicinal purposes since ancient times. Today, it is known for its medicinal value. Urinary tract. Leucoderma. Digestive organs. Colds.

The plant contains essential oil with the following valuable components. bergapten. Aflatoxin. Royaltyin. Isopirin. Flavonoids. Fatty oils.

Great importance is attached to the medicinal properties of the substance flavopiridol. It has very good properties in restoring skin pigmentation. Therefore, it is an indispensable plant in the manufacture of drugs for the treatment of vitiligo (leukoderma), alopecia, psoriasis, erysipelas, neurodermatitis.

Ammi majus bioactive components in the fine vessels strengthen and regulate the uterus and intestines. It includes preparations of Ammi majus, used as choline, diuretic, and sedative.

In nature, Ammi majus is distributed in southern and southeastern Europe, North Africa, the Near and Middle East, Russia, and Ukraine.

Today, the plant is successfully cultivated on an industrial scale.

HOW TO GROW AMMI MAJUS There are two varieties of farm-grown Ammi majus - large and toothed. The plants are large, but not bulky. The openwork "airy" leaves accentuate the decorative nature of the inflorescence. Ammi majus is excellent for cutting and stays fresh for a week. Great on its own as a bouquet or as a backdrop for other flowers.

Ammi majus is completely undemanding, grows in any soil, and is not attacked by pests. Recommended for planting as an annual. The abundant fruit provides planting material for homeowners.

The fruits of the plant contain medicinal substances. Even ancient Egypt with their help tried to fight diseases such as vitiligo, psoriasis, erysipelas. Today, the cultivation of medicinal Ammi majus on a commercial scale is underway.

Medicines (pills, ointments) are produced by well-known pharmaceutical companies. However, self-medication with infusions and decoctions is fraught with serious problems. In fact, there are many contraindications and side effects.

Therefore, it is better to grow Ammi majus exclusively as decoration in gardens and balconies and enjoy the beauty of the plant.

CULTIVATION OF AMMI MAJUS Ammi medicines can be cultivated perfectly as a cultivated plant. It is very simple and unpretentious. However, there are some conditions to get good results.

So, the soil for growing Ammi majus should be black and clean, and weed-free. It can be planted on plots that have previously been planted with cereal crops, early vegetables, and medicinal plants: chamomile and poppy oil seeds.

Before planting, the soil should be prepared. 1. cleaning the residues of previous crops. 2. to plow. 3. to make plowing and harrowing.

All the above actions are combined with soil fertilization. Before deep plowing, it is necessary to apply the following nutrient mixtures on a per hectare basis. 1. ammonium sulfate: 2.5g. 2. superphosphate: 3.5g. 3. ammonium nitrate: 1.5g.

Before sowing in spring combine the introduction of potassium chloride (50 kg), superphosphate (300 kg), and ammonium nitrate (100 kg) per hectare of soil.

Then, for maximum effect, the sowing should be combined with the application of calcium superphosphate to the soil. This will improve the germination of seeds and increase the yield by up to 35% (seed harvest).

And in the cultivation of Ammi majus, the last application of fertilizer is made at the vegetative stage when the seedlings form about six leaves. At this stage, ammonium nitrate is applied. However, an important condition for fertilization is soil moisture, which must be at least 20%. If, for example, it is impossible to irrigate the site and it has not rained for a long time, but it is better not to do ammonium nitrate.

Ammi majus can be sown with both spring and winter under the ground. It should be noted that it is better to carry out spring planting. To improve the germination of seeds, they are stratified for three months. The seeds are then dried and sieved. Another preparation step is to soak the seeds in water for one day before sowing. Floating sowing is not suitable.

Ammi majus is sown with a disk seeder to a depth of 1inch (2 cm). The sowing rate was 5 kg for a one-hectare plot. Under favorable weather conditions, the first shoots appear after two weeks.

Fall sowing requires increasing the seeding rate to 6 kg and reducing the burial depth to 0.6inch (1.5 cm). Otherwise, the planting technique is the same.

Ammi majus is planted on cultivated land and requires certain human actions to take care of the crop.

The main task is loosening the soil and timely removal of weeds. For this purpose, it is necessary to carry out inter-row clearance of weeds with a special cultivator. During the whole period of formation of the ground part, as a rule, three to four cultivations are carried out.

Weeds in the rows are removed by hand. This work should be done at least twice and should be combined with thinning work. If the seedlings are too thick, the yield will be significantly reduced. The first weeding is done to thin the shoots when Ammi majus is still small and has two leaves.

The seeds are used for medicinal purposes. Therefore, a large collection of this material is grown on an industrial scale Ammi majus large.

The seeds are harvested when the percentage of maturity exceeds sixty percent. This is done mechanically, with the help of a combined harvester specially equipped for this purpose. The harvested crop is dried and cleaned.

The yield of this medicinal plant is not very high, with an average of about ten hundred pounds of seeds per hectare. The storage and use period of the medicinal herb depends on the storage conditions and is 3-10 years.

THE FIRST STEP AFTER PURCHASING SEEDS Ammi majus is grown from seeds. They remain germinating for 3-4 years, which should be noted at the time of purchase.

In areas with relatively warm winters, it is recommended to sow seeds under winter. In areas with more severe climatic conditions, spring sowing is done. The optimum soil temperature is 43-46°F (6-8°C). Seedlings emerge in 1.5 to 2 weeks. Seedlings grow unhurriedly at first. But after the tillering stage, they actively increase in height and width.

To advance the flowering time helps to raise seedlings in February-March. It is advisable to stratify seeds for a month. Bury them in the nutrient substrate 0.8inch (2 cm), moisten the soil and cover it with glass or polyethylene.

Place the container in a warm place until sprouts appear. Sprouts need plenty of light, but the night air temperature should not exceed 53-59°F (12-15°C). Otherwise, seedlings will stretch disproportionately.

Seedlings can be moved to designated locations by the end of May. Given the fragility of the root system, great care should be taken when transplanting so as not to damage the ground nodules.

RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Ammi majus grows well in full sun and semi-shade. Any garden soil is suitable, just take care of a good and reliable drainage layer.

In case of open sowing, it is recommended to add organic fertilizer to the soil beforehand. The seedlings are planted with two applications of complex mineral fertilizer.

Ammi majus is drought tolerant but needs regular and moderate watering in the early stages of growth and in hot weather. Temperature and water characteristics are not important.

The plants respond thankfully to weeding and loosening of the soil.

POSSIBLE DIFFICULTIES Ammi majus suffers from waterlogging in the soil. The root system rots rapidly and the plant dies. Lowland areas are considered unsuitable for maintaining representatives of this flora. The soil is watered only after it has dried out.

In the absence of light, the stems increase in height and density, but flowering becomes sparse. There is a possibility of not producing fruits. High air humidity during flowering will have the same effect.

Ammi majus are tall plants with many branches. If they do not have enough space, they will become smaller and weaker.

CARE AND HARVESTING Ammi majus crop care includes systematic loosening of the soil between the rows and the plants do not receive compaction. As two true leaves appear on the shoots, they are thinned out. During drought, at the beginning of cultivation - watering every 2-3 days. During flowering, watering is reduced.

Harvesting of Ammi majus takes place during the period of massive seed maturity when most of the umbels curl and the stems turn yellowish. After harvesting, Ammi majus fruits are dried and peeled.

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Alyssum is an elegant small flowering plant that appeared in our gardens and parks not too long ago, but its undeniable advantages make us hope that Alyssum's popularity will grow from year to year.

It is hardy, beautiful, blooms profusely and, if properly cared for, can achieve the second wave of blooms in one season. So how to grow Alyssum and what makes it good? This article answers the question.

In our article you will find information to help you with: understanding the species of the plant; planting Alyssum seedlings; planting in flower beds; proper care of the plant for the season; collecting seeds; preparing Alyssum for winter.

PLANTING AND CARE OF ALYSSUM Planting: In-ground sowing early May or November. Seedling sowing in March or April. Seedling in the garden in late May or early June.

Flowering: May to late autumn. Lighting: bright light or semi-shade. Soil: light, dry, fertile, well-drained soil of neutral or alkaline reaction. Watering: Regular, moderate, and abundant in drought. Fertilizer: Plants need nitrogen fertilizer from the time they are vegetated and - before flowering - a full mineral complex. Annuals are fed up to 4 times in a season, perennials, if fertilized for the first time before flowering - 5 times. Pruning: Shorten shoots by 2-3inch (5-8 cm) after flowering in summer. Propagation: Propagated by seeds, cuttings, and divisions. Pests: cruciferous fleas, caterpillars, vegetable moths, whiteflies. Diseases: Phytophthora, powdery mildew, circumsporidiosis, and viral mosaic disease. Value: Some species of alyssum are medicinal plants.

Alyssum or borage, sea Lobularia, belongs to the family Brassicaceae (formerly Cruciferae), which includes about 100 species of plants growing in North Africa, Asia, and Europe.

The word "alyssum" is a Latinization of the Greek word "Alisson": "a" means "without" - negative, and "lyssa" in translation means "dog rabies". That is, apparently, in ancient times, the ash flower was somehow used to treat rabies.

The flower Alyssum has not been known in garden culture for very long, but its popularity is increasing year by year, and the reason for this is not only its inconspicuousness and ease of care but also the strong honeyed fragrance it gives off.

BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION A low-growing plant with a soil pedigree, it reaches a height of 6-16inch (15-40 cm). It has small, pubescent, oblong, or obovate leaves on strong branches, with semi-trunk-like shoots at the base.

The flowers are small, white, yellow, lilac, pink, red, or purple, in small clusters, blooming in May and leaving in late autumn.

The fruit is a pod with seeds, which can germinate for up to three years. alyssum is a honeybee, and its pungent nectar attracts bees.

Technically speaking, Alyssum and Alyssum are not the same plants, but they are close relatives and so similar that florists have combined them into one genus for simplicity.

The determination of the difference is simple: the flowers of Alyssum are pale or yellow, while the flowers of Alyssum are white, lilac, or pink.

Both perennial and annual Alyssum can be cultivated. It is used for planting pots, borders, and vases. It is often planted in open areas for camouflage after the bulbs have flowered in spring.

SEED CULTIVATION OF ALYSSUM How to sow seeds If you do not know how to grow Alyssum from seed, we would like to share our experience with you. There are two options for growing Alyssum from seeds, sprouting, and non-sprouting.

How to grow Alyssum seedless method? Sow Alyssum in the ground at a depth of 0.6inch (1.5cm) in early May and thin the seedlings when a continuous blanket of shoots appears.

However, if Alyssum is sown in spring, flowering will be late. You can sow the seeds in November - in the winter they will pass through natural stratification and in the spring you will get strong and healthy seedlings, which will flower on time.

SEEDLING CARE But many florists prefer all the same methods of seedling propagation, and it is not in vain, it is more reliable and rarely has unpleasant surprises.

Before sowing seedlings in March-April, buy a light nutrient soil with a low lime content (pH 5.5-6.2), put it in the nursery box, then scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil, not too densely, slightly sprinkled with the same soil mixture, although you can leave it out and press the seeds directly on the surface.

If you create good light, greenhouse conditions for the seeds, covered with glass or aluminum foil, at 50-59°F (10-15°C), with moderate humidity and ventilation, expect the seeds to germinate in about a week.

Fertilize the seedlings with a compound fertilizer as soon as they develop their first true leaves. Wait until the seedlings have grown 2-3 true leaves before inserting them into their own pots, but if the seedlings grow quickly, you do not need to set them aside and can plant them directly into the soil.

ALYSSUM IS GROWN IN THE OPEN GROUND When to plant Planting flowers Alyssum in the open ground is carried out in late May or early June when there is no longer any fear of returning frost.

Choose a sunny site, the soil for Alyssum is dry, well-drained, rich in humus, the neutral reaction is desirable, although it is desirable and slightly alkaline, but also slightly acidic. Alyssum grows beautifully between sun-heated slabs or stones.

HOW TO GROW ALYSSUM To plant Alyssum in the ground, consider that these flowers quickly grow wide, which means planting them at a distance of about 16inch (40cm) from each other, although it all depends on the type and variety of Alyssum.

The pit should be slightly larger than the rhizome, with a root ball made of soil, strongly not deepened when planting and watered full immediately after planting. When planting in beds, overgrown shrubs can be divided and planted as separate plants. alyssum blooms from seeds 6-7 weeks after germination.

CARING FOR ALYSSUM Planting conditions As you can see, planting Alyssum is a simple matter that can be done in five minutes. As simple as it is to care for, it involves watering the plant, loosening the soil, removing weeds from the site, pruning, and fertilizing.

Plants need regular watering, plenty in dry weather, otherwise, lack of moisture will drop flowers and buds. However, abundant watering is only possible if the soil is well permeable, otherwise, the water from stagnation in the roots of Alyssum will be dampened and will disappear.

How can I tell when it is time to water Alyssum? Dig 1-2inch (3-5cm) deep into the ground with a trowel and if it is dry, water it safely.

After watering you can easily remove the resulting weeds and loosen the soil between Alyssum's shrubs, but if you mulch the area in the spring after planting you will have to water and weed much less frequently, but loosening the soil and being present in the mulch is an important part of Alyssum's care as it ensures soil moisture and air permeability.

For fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer is applied at a rate of 1 tablespoon of farmyard urea per 10 liters of water during plant growth, and a compound fertilizer is made in the soil before flowering. Fertilize as often and as much as necessary as prescribed to make the annuals bloom more easily.

Pruning alyssum Timely and proper pruning is very important for the full growth and productive flowering of Alyssum. In spring, remove the flowering stems, dead leaves, and weak, diseased branches from perennial Alyssum.

After flowering in summer, do the same again, also shortening all shoots by 2-3inch (5-8 cm) This will encourage Alyssum to flower again. In addition, bushes that have been growing in summer look a bit untidy, pruning them down will make them look compact and neat.

Pests and Diseases The most dangerous pest for Alyssum: the cruciferous flea, which is difficult to eliminate without treatment with a solution of 10 liters of water with a tablespoon of vitriol, but only adult, strong plants can be treated.

The most dangerous pests of alyssum are caterpillars, but they will help to remove the bushes injected in chamomile treatment tobacco or soap.

With prolonged flooding or insufficient water infiltration of the soil, Alyssum can develop brown rot-late blight, which affects the underground parts of the plant and the root system. In this case, treatment with copper chlorate or fungicides can be tried.

Infection of Alyssum caused by viral mosaic or powdery mildew (true or false) may occur. Treatment with an inorganic copper fungicide can eliminate powdery mildew. Also downy mildew treat with a mixture of insecticidal agents. Virus mosaic is not cured.

ALYSSUM AFTER FLOWERING How and when to collect seeds You can start collecting seeds at the end of September - the beginning of October. To do this, spread an old blanket in the yard on a dry, windless day and rub the Alyssum inflorescence with your hands on it.

Then remove the coarse debris, dry the seeds in a well-ventilated but unventilated dry room, and store them in a cloth bag until spring.

If it is too late and the seeds have fallen off, take a broom, lift the branches of Alyssum, sweep the seeds out from under the bush, clean the debris and soil, and store them as described above.

PERENNIAL ALYSSUM IN WINTER Needless to say, Alyssum's resistance to freezing is not unlimited In cold snaps below 59°F (15°C), the plant will not survive. But if your winter is not severe, cover it with dry leaves and when it snows, throw a snowdrift over it and it will survive the winter with its green leaves.

It is not recommended to prune Alyssum before winter. The pruning you do after the flowering period is enough, especially in spring when Alyssum will be pruned again.

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As many people know, Amaranthus is a universal plant, on the basis of which you can make tea, add to various dishes, cook porridge with grains and even make bread with Amaranthus flour. And if everything is clear with flour and grains, you can buy it in specialized stores, because it is not a perishable product, what about the fresh leaves.

And in this case, everything is simple, you can grow Amaranthus not only in the garden or growing amaranth in containers but also on the windowsill of the apartment. This article has the answer for you.

ABOUT AMARANTHUS Amaranthus is an annual plant that grows 80-120inch (2-3m) tall. It has a rather fleshy stem and leaves that come in red, purple, or solid green. The flowers can be gold, red or purple.

Although Amaranthus is a weed, it can be grown not only to decorate a garden or plot but also for food.

Amaranthus is a rather unpretentious plant. It does not require much attention or special care. It easily tolerates drought, light frosts, and high temperatures. amaranthus can grow on any soil in any climate zone except swampy. But when all is said and done, the plant prefers light and warmth.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Amaranthus was recognized as a plant of the future at the United Nations General Assembly. At this meeting, the cultivation of the plant and its useful qualities were discussed.

It turned out that Amaranthus is a plant that is not very demanding and can be grown in almost any condition. Of course, many people in this situation may object.

HOW TO GROW AMARANTHUS IN THE APARTMENT? But this is quite possible, as long as you know the step-by-step instructions and follow them. So, to grow Amaranthus on the windowsill, you need.

1. Amaranthus seeds. You can buy them at any gardening store. 2. Soil for seedlings, because you can prepare it yourself, you need three parts of humus and one part of sterile sand. 3. the container in which you will plant Amaranthus, its height should be no less than 4inch (10 cm) and at the bottom should be made holes for water drainage, otherwise, the seeds just rotted away. The width of the container should be a little narrower than the windowsill, and do not forget to have a special holder for the remaining water that will flow down after watering. 4. Food film, a small trowel, watering can, or sprayer.

When you have bought everything you need, you can start sowing the seeds. It should be remembered that Amaranthus is a heat-loving plant, so even in an apartment, the best months to plant it are from May until the end of September. Let's proceed to plant Amaranthus seeds with step-by-step instructions.

1. Pour the soil into the pot where Amaranthus is growing and mix it well, making sure there are no clumps of soil. 2. Take another bucket, but one-fifth of the soil into it, pour the seeds there and mix well. 3. Spread the remaining soil in the pot evenly and sprinkle it with a little standing water or spray it with a sprayer. 4. Scatter the soil with seeds into the pot and spread it evenly, then water it in the same way or spray it with a sprayer. 5. Cover the pot with plastic wrap. 6. Place the pot on a windowsill. Amaranthus is a light-loving and heat-loving plant, so a windowsill is an ideal place to grow it.

Don't forget to moisten the soil daily. If you do everything as instructed, the first buds will appear in 4 to 5 days. When Amaranthus grows 1-1.5inch (2-4cm), it is ready to eat.

GROWING AMARANTHUS ON A WINDOWSILL If you want to grow a mature plant on your balcony, it is worth having patience. When Amaranthus seeds germinate and 3-4 leaves appear on the buds, this is a sign that the plant can be transplanted to a separate pot. Plastic cups can be used in this case. To transplant seedlings.

1. In a plastic cup or small pot, fill it with soil and water it gently. 2. Make a small depression in each pot and plant a seedling there. 3. Water the plant. 4. Pinch the tops of the sprouts slightly, a process that helps strengthen the roots of each plant.

Although Amaranthus is used to dry climates, don't forget to water it regularly and spray it with a sprayer. Also, tamp down the soil in each pot regularly. When the plants are about 8-10inch (20-25cm) tall, they are ready for use as food.

Amaranthus leaves are an important part of a healthy diet. Modern research has confirmed that Amaranthus contains a large number of plant proteins that are not inferior to animal proteins in their properties. Amaranthus leaves also contain another rare Amaranthus component called squalene. It helps to prolong youth at the cellular level.

Amaranthus leaves have applications in many different fields and are very popular in cooking. Growing a few Amaranthus bushes on your balcony will not only diversify your diet but also improve your health.

GROWING AMARANTHUS FROM SEEDS To grow Amaranthus in a plot, simply sow its seeds in a bed, or plant seedlings.

SOWING IN THE OPEN GROUND Only in areas where warmth has arrived in April, you can sow directly into the bed. During this month, sow the seeds into the ground. The ground should be sufficiently heated.

The first shoots appear in about 10 days. If the planting is too dense, the seedlings should be thinned. After that, be sure to loosen the soil.

GERMINATION AT HOME More often, the seedling method is used. It is not difficult to grow Amaranthus seedlings independently. It is only necessary to follow the recommendations of some experienced gardeners.

1. Sowing seedlings is best to start sowing in March. 2. It is best to sow seeds with a mixture of humus and sand. This mixture must be warmed up before planting to protect the future shoots from fungi and pests. 3. The container in which you intend to sow Amaranthus should be high enough, not less than 4inch (10cm). 4. You should make small holes in the boxes and pots so that excess water can flow out of them. Otherwise, it may cause the seedlings to rot and die. 5. Sow the seeds at a depth of 0.6-0.8inch (1.5-2cm). Moisten the soil lightly before sowing. 6. Cover the container with aluminum foil and place it in a warm place away from light. 7. The time of the first germination in the home depends on the temperature in the room. At 71°F (22°C), sprouts have appeared in 3-4 days. At temperatures below 60°F (16°C), seeds will germinate in no more than 10 days at the earliest. 8. Be sure to thin the seedlings. 9. After 3 or 4 leaves appear transplant each plant into a separate container. Immediately after transplanting, prune the top of the seedlings. This will help the roots get stronger faster.

PLANTING SEEDLINGS Start planting seedlings in the open ground in May, when the average temperature is around 4 degrees. At this temperature, the soil is already warm.

Choose a sunny and warm place for planting. Prepare the soil for sowing in the fall. Turn it over and apply mineral fertilizer and humus. The very seedling itself must be hardened before planting. Then it will be able to withstand a little frost.

AMARANTHUS CARE Caring for the plant at home is easy. It consists of the following.

1. Watering: It should be regular and also moderate. 2. Weeding and hoeing. 3. Tying the stems. This procedure should enable the stems to bear the weight of the flowers without breaking under them. 4. Pest and disease control. 5. Fertilization with mineral and organic fertilizers.

In June, young plants are pruned at the very top of the stem. This helps the plant to grow well. The stems will become thicker and produce a large number of ovaries.

Important: Amaranthus takes 3-3.5 months from sowing to full maturity. This is true for both species as vegetable plants and as ornamentals.

SEED COLLECTION You can start harvesting seeds in the fall. They are not difficult to collect. the roots of Amaranthus are cut. The clusters should be spread out on any flat surface and left to dry. The whole drying process should last for about 2 months.

After that, Amaranthus is sifted through a fine sieve. The sieved seeds are also spread thinly on the surface and left to dry for some more time. Normally, the seeds will dry out in 10 days.

Place the prepared seeds in a paper bag. Already next year, they can grow new plants. Their storage period is 4-5 years.

SOWING AMARANTHUS SEEDS IN OPEN FIELDS. Amaranthus should only be sown directly into the ground in the southern part of the country. Choose a sunny, dry, and sheltered place when sowing. Keep in mind that the plant does not tolerate stagnant water in the soil. Site preparation before sowing depends on what you are after.

If Amaranthus is to be grown as an ornamental, even the loosest stony soil is suitable for it. But if it is to be used for food - make sure the soil is light, well-drained, moderately acidic, and rich in useful substances.

WHEN TO SOW AMARANTHUS SEEDS IN THE OPEN FIELD? The sowing time is from the end of April to mid-May. It is important that this is when the weather is warming up and the soil has warmed up to 50°F (10°C). In the fall, turn the soil by adding compost, peat, or fertilizer.

Repeat digging in the spring to add mineral fertilizer and loosen the soil thoroughly to even out the soil. amaranthus is particularly important for the phosphorus and potassium content of the soil. If growing Amaranthus for food, avoid fertilizers with high nitrogen content, as these can turn into dangerous nitrates.

Be sure to water well and prepare trenches 16-20inch (40-50 cm) apart and about 0.6inch (1.5 cm) deep. Then sow the seeds in them, cover them with a thin layer of soil and compact them slightly.

In case of frost, the young plants should always be covered. During the first month after the seedlings are born, weed and loosen the soil frequently. Be very careful when using a hoe or mattock, as Amaranthus has very shallow lateral roots.

When Amaranthus grows, remove weak plants: for healthy growth, the shrubs should be at least 12-16inch (30-40cm) apart. As an adult, Amaranthus is not very demanding and does not require constant care.

In colder regions, you can sow Amaranthus in the open ground in a greenhouse near the end of May and transfer it to the open ground in June. You can also sow Amaranthus in the winter and wait for the ground to freeze before planting.

The crop is covered with sawdust or fleece. In spring, the cover is removed, but in the bed must be put arc and stretch film.

CULTIVATION OF AMARANTHUS SEEDLINGS Starting germination of Amaranthus seedlings can be started in early March. Since the plants take a long time to germinate, soak the seeds in advance to allow them to germinate slightly, but not to sprout.

Amaranthus soil can be made from a mixture of leaf rot, peat, and garden soil in equal proportions. Add some superphosphate or wood ash. If you do not want to prepare your own soil, you can buy peat pots for Amaranthus, a plant that really likes a loose, nutrient-rich environment.

Seedlings must be kept at a temperature of at least 68°F (20°C) for germination. It is best to cover the box with a plastic sheet and place it in a warm, well-lit place. During this stage, watering should be moderate and regular, preferably using a sprayer. Sprouting will occur in about two weeks, after which Amaranthus should be thinned to allow the seedlings to develop fully.

AMARANTHUS GERMINATION When 3-4 leaves appear on the buds, each seedling should be transplanted into a separate pot. The pots should be at least 5inch (12cm) in diameter. Fill each pot with soil. It is best to use the same soil as when the seeds were germinated.

Wet the soil where the seedlings will grow beforehand, and only then gently remove each seedling. Make hollows in the soil and plant the seedlings in them. Water the plants. Pinch the tops of the shoots after each seedling is transplanted into a separate pot.

This will help the roots become stronger. Before planting, feed the seedlings in two stages: when the first true leaves appear and after 10-15 days. As a fertilizer, you can use any complex mineral fertilizer.

AMARANTHUS: OPEN FIELD TRANSPLANTING OF SEEDLINGS Amaranthus seedlings can be planted in the open ground in the Urals in late May when the average daily temperature is above 41°F (5°C). At this time the ground has warmed sufficiently and there is no danger of frost. It is best to do this on cloudy days or at sunset. Prepare the seedbed in the same way as for sowing.

Dig holes about 8inch (20cm) deep at a distance of about half a meter apart. Plant three to four plants each. After that, water extensively and apply the foliar cover. To acclimatize the plants better, it is worthwhile to harden Amaranthus buds outdoors daily for about a month before planting, gradually increasing their stay in the open air.

OUTDOOR CARE FOR AMARANTHUS Amaranthus is fairly unpretentious in terms of care; it does not require much water or any special conditions. However, in order to make sure that the plant does not die and gives a good harvest, you need to follow some rules of its care.

Throughout the summer Amaranthus needs organic and mineral fertilizers. Although Amaranthus is drought tolerant, it must be watered frequently during the very hot summer months or it will stop growing. Weed and soak plants as needed.

Be sure to tie up tall Amaranthus so that its branches do not break under the weight of the flowers. Prick the top of the plant in June, then the shrub will be lusher, the stalks will be stable, and the number of ovaries on the branches will be greater.

AMARANTHUS: DISEASES AND PESTS Amaranthus can be attacked by aphids. Amaranthus can only be damaged by aphids early in its life - mainly during the humid and rainy summer months. To avoid this, preventive measures must be taken on the plant.

The same preparations are also very effective against weevils, whose larvae develop in the plant stems and retard their growth. If too much water accumulates in the soil, Amaranthus can become sick from fungal diseases. Treatment is provided by spraying the plants with fungicides - colloidal sulfur, copper sulfate, copper chloride, and similar preparations.

OBTAINING AMARANTHUS SEEDS In order to grow Amaranthus, seeds can be bought in any specialized store. But it is also possible to obtain Amaranthus seeds yourself. To do this, cut Amaranthus at the very base and hang the panicles for 2 months to allow them to dry completely.

The drying room should be dry and well ventilated. after 2 months, sift the panicles through a sieve with a very fine mesh. Place the seeds on the surface of the same well-ventilated room for another 7 to 10 days. Stir the seeds regularly.

Make sure that no rodents come into contact with the seeds. Spread branches of elderberry around the seeds. Place the dried seeds in a paper envelope or box. They can be stored for 4-5 years.

Amaranthus was, until recently, a plant of little interest to amateur gardeners. As information about its unique medicinal properties emerged, interest in it increased dramatically.

Thanks to scientific breeders obtained ornamental varieties, successfully used to decorate gardens and homes. Amaranthus is a great decoration for any garden: low-growing varieties are suitable for decorating flower beds, squares, and containers, and tall-growing varieties look good in the center of hedges and flower beds.

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