#rob dahm

3.38 in, wanted to say on the topic of your water injection making me think of something silly but works. But its hard to implement & I'm fairly sure this is coming out well after things already happened. So it goes without saying just commenting & thinking, if you use a wicking effect phase change on your radiator, as in you squirt a willing the thermally & pressure wise phase change liquid it will help cool your radiator more effectively. Now I went with the idea of 3d printing a radiator & using a diffuser-esq style for my old concept designs that did this on my xenonreality youtube. Its basically funnels into a bunch of smaller entry holes that then have a bunch of tiny tubes like a high flow resonator tubes that funnel out behind the tapering in to that point front part of the radiator.

Now, why I did that is because I could run a tiny little center hub spot with 4 or more little hollow stator guys (wing blades that are hollow that hold it) so I could squirt water in. It gets forced into the hole, air pressure squeezes it further in & then fans suck it out, it goes through a rapid change of heat & pressure which causes a wicking effect to happen thanks to it "wetting" (coanda effect) the internal diameter that then is forced into multiple directions that are much larger than before, which drops pressure & increases flow like a diffuser.

That then can have other funnels that don't have the hollow squirter hub dude in them to then flow into those spots increasing the total air flow. It also improves total fin density without increasing needed pressure. Granted, the old school way was just putting a few fuel lines in the front & poking a bunch of tiny holes into them, or just running port injectors anyways & squirting water into the flow for the radiator.

Why? Because it cools it & the weight will be removed as you do it. The further you go on, the lower & lower it gets. I'm sure you get the idea, but its similar to how rocket engines & rockets get used.

Side note, gills behind your front wheels can help vacate more hot air, & raking up your hood in the rear for improving total air flow escaping but might not be needed. Also, the rear window can benefit for the roof to just into the window diffusers that are dimpled a bit to drag that wind back into your wing. Having more forward swept angle of attack "unicorn horns" on the front roof & window further grab air & force it into the rear section together with side wings around the driver & passenger window areas. They have to be a compound angle, meaning 45 degrees & then with a curve/twist to force vortexing & drag into your rear diffuser areas. Basically just think, how much do I really need to put on, holes in the wing act like dimples, especially if they are recessed with a slight rise in front, like a bump or a bump with tiny channels like cut in half stainless steel straws that are half pipes laid in them. The air hits them it gets stalled there, it bounces off air on the other side.

It also weighs less & is stronger too, structurally. A Y top, not T, helps with wave-y line jagged (wave guides) tips to help further improve the vortexing & drag along those areas. It also weighs less & is stiffer. The rear window can be made to have them forward swept (unicorn horns) to further force that air back into the wing & smooth it into the underside of it to have it flow faster but get stalled & then made by the wing to be separated to give you your downforce. It just means more laminar with further back & underneath the wing stators that have T sections to act as control for the wind, & the top can remain vortexing.

The less you use the less control, sure, but passive blade angles that swivel a little on a bearing help out with changes of wind direction. It also means you gain more control back, with slightly more weight, but not as much as having a full array of the things stuck to it, looking like a dude who went to auto zone to buy all the wings, just the whole dang stock lol.

Your front window having those little wing stators horizontal to slowly turning diagonal to then vertical further improves it, same for a raked hood. Wave guides, am i right?

The easiest method is removing a rear window & shoving a air scoop up top that helps drag air back into that spot to improve the rear downforce you want. Same for similar effects for the front hood & chin spoiler. But it requires the most fabrication.

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16.13 in, so the radius can be improved in a different way, its a neat little "using physics to beat other physics" trick in the world of fluid dynamics. Running channels (those inner diameter half pipes, right? ;)) that then diagonally serpentine they criss-cross in-between each other & create this nice little blade stators that then have the angle that forces a good vortex separation effect that leave a little to rotate & come back into in inner diameter area to combine with other pulses. It's a fluid flywheel that uses coanda effects & thermal changes in the fluid to cause specific expansions that work as sound waves.

The vortex continues tighter into the blades, then the other side elongates back into the inner diameter, travels, then joins in as a much lower pressure "Leidenfrost effect" that it has to push into, so instead it drags a little back in & then the rest better flows on top mostly vortexing back in more evenly across the blades & moving more fluidically correctly into the blades transferring their centripetal & centrifugal kinetic forces into the blades as the blades continue to rotate altering their angles of pitch to effectively capture the rotation of the gases, causing them to gain resistance that forces flow of the gas to instead get spent as a pocket of higher pressure re-orienting itself as a flow of thrust off the longer blade angle.

When done correctly, it gives a huge advantage. Its an old lemke (my last name) design again. Haven't seen somebody try to actually do up the housing in a turbo in a while, finally someone taking it on. The sides of that length of blade then capture higher velocity gases traveling as thrust off of a given choke & nozzle, I got the idea from aero spikes & deval nozzles in rocket engines.

Consequently it also reduces the total weight & improves structural strength, while having the jules-thompson (pre-heating the gases coming in from the exhausts middle point) effect be even better, a colder side & warmer side improves the given flow characteristics of the turbine, being able to run tighter while acting, with the channels, like a bigger flow for better response.

@nasa

! 18.02 in, I forgot something, So you know this already, but using a larger pipe into smaller pipes that get tapered (like a collector) into those points helps with flow velocity. After your turbo, if you used a reverse collector you can more efficiently create a reduced back pressure that gains surface area to air & cools & condenses rapidly. Now the reason this is good is based on how quickly you can flow things, if you have wind getting pumped in around it, it actually helps drag it out through a "scavenge" (which is just Bernoulli's principle) effect to better improve outright flow.

Basically, your car's speed is a pump that forces air into the exhaust in a way that forces out heat to better cool & heat to each fluid (air/exhaust) in a way that gives you faster & better flow. The volumetric efficiencies go burr stonks up.

Now, this gets into stupid things, because if you use a good coiling pipe system with air coming into the in-between that then has the coils get cut to join into those air inlet pipes with tiny stators that are hollow you gain strength, the drag behind the stator has the air come in & join the rotational vortex flow mixing it & having it then get joined into smaller pipes to "taper it" further which further improves the flow & massive reduces pressure waves coming back. Its a "lemke valve" I had on my channel forever ago at this point.

I got the idea based on tesla valves & then wanted to improve them because they kind of suck a bit. This also allowed for ramming in & scramming in air into my rear aero spike deval nozzle hybrid rocket using the heat to suck out frontal resistance air improving my specific impulse & total delta v well past anything now.

I started it off in a motorcycle subreddit with a different valve style at first & had been working on a replacement style to further improve exhaust flows. Back then it was 49cc engines putting out 500 hp & 500 ft-lbs of torque using decently high break mean effective pressure, since then I've changed that design by putting a valve into the piston head & sealing up the crank to cylinder with a "bottom" (like a head) & have made it give me double stroke lengths for shorter stroke engines. I use hollow 2 tube connection rods that pump oil through them & have the elbow pin act as a carrot valve to have it, in its rotation, have oil pressure move the valve in its 4 stroke cycle timing.

I changed that to hydraulic fluid cranks using a version of a torque converter turbine that is made to wrap the fluid flow around the whole cylinder & get it behind the rear of the other side of the piston which ram pumps the fluid around. Like your turbo but now far more efficient. Its got 3 combustion chambers, one in the center, 2 outside. The one in the center starts, then scavenges into helping the outsides, as the exhaust heads back into the center (3 stroke lengths instead this time) to draw in air for the 2 outside combustions to take place.

Now, fluid flowing is actually still a flywheel & if done correctly like I outline in those videos on my xenonreality channel, it loses next to nothing in boundary layer loses (sort of like the turbine part of the last comment) which forces the pistons in and out, but I did it up further & used solenoid operations because the cylinders can have, behind the plated (or just inlayed into them) inner diameter a bunch of electric coils & the pistons heads can too, I think set to work making them super tiny & small for extra cheapness of manufacturing & improved strength of linear generation of electricity & total "umpf" so to speak (flux strength isn't directly causative of total speed of movement & resistance to being stopped which means tesla isn't technically the right term here for strength of newton force in a given direction) while also using!

Get this!

Rocket injectors. I burn air & fuel in tiny little chambers & use the fuel in the injectors, together with oil around it to help cool them & prevent them from having issues, which means, even if the solenoids fail (which are never using magnets) & fluid isn't flowing fast enough with the torque converters turned into pumps at start-up, the injectors fire & get the job done no matter what.

Starts off with huge torques, then triple stroke lengths down its break mean effective pressure into a beautiful turbine that captures the rest of the energy I can, it gets dragged out by air pressure coming in to the flowing gases, just like above (stationary it will still do it) & while doing that has a bunch of piezoelectric crystals in the exhaust to gain back more of that lost energy as mechanical stress & strain & heat stress & strain turned into mechanical stress & strain, while acting as a heat pump to gain more (vibrations dude, acoustic heating & cooling easy stuff) energy through atmosphere to get more torque with less fuel.

Then that changed to nitrogen oxide decomposition, its creation was done using the injectors through catalytic, light, & basic electrical & vibrational means to have them run air over the converter part to significantly reduce total energy costs to produce nitrogen oxides & then just explode them into the engine to produce the same 500hp & 500 ft-lbs of torque off the line. Now it never needs fuel, cool stuff, eh? Its basically built from fiber reinforced built up through chemical & light based deposition in a huge pot. Sort of like electroplating, but not really, more like this Belousov-zhabotinsky reaction that deposits things more like a resin 3d volumetric printer.

So, super cheap, quick, & uses waste materials & costs nothing but energy from solar & wind & the reaction causing a bunch of electron redox flow reactions that deposit onto the surfaces of the fibers. Making everything a huge battery, capacitor, controller, phased, solenoid, & more one piece that's made with close to a million of them at once from people paying you to take trash off their hands & clean up. You make profit, then make profit, then you sell them their trash back & make more profit.

100$ car, 2 seater egg shape, running this with all wheel drive is a fun zipper that never uses fuel & can still use all the piezoelectrics in the tires, suspension, body panels, windows, seats, basically everywhere, gain stirling vacuum based heat pumps collecting it at all times from the air, using the dirt around to actually help this & eat it in the reaction redox flows to gain more energy & like the paint that does this, heal itself in the process, never needing to care about the dirt ever. Same for putting batteries into the frame structure of your chairs & seats, allowing for charge potentials to be gained on the surface of the car, use solar windows (although that's easy fibers placed in them) all with batteries & super capacitors that never need to be worried about exploding & burning.

More than 10k watt hours, not that it would need it, it runs off the air for the engine anyways, but hey, now you have that portable power supply you drive around & can easily power your house made of, basically, the same materials too. This is also for hank green & his video recently about an exploded rocket. (tumblr time)

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23.03 in, if you wanted to know how (which I just want you to know that I think your idea will work will & is good) I got around the issues of having the flow coming back, I brute forced simpled it. I put in reed valves & uses tiny little poppet valves in certain areas for my first design. I also used air pressure in the manifold to my advantage (before the nitrogen oxide stuff) by having the camshaft open poppet valves attached to the pipe just outside of the exhaust port, using a another reed valve & a tricked out port that basically uses channels & a diffuser like inside that then flares out at the end where the port is with those grooves there.

The idea was using the reed valve to close that spot, the flow of gas has inertia/momentum & carries forward, then the bends got channels & grooves, with those stators put in while using oval-lization (you are a dude who has a phallus like me, the stream flatten then verticals to travel down more efficiently, simple quick stuff to understand) & those channels to grab & start the expansion & flow of the gas into that direction, before it turns.

Then raised overhangs on the opposing side to brute force vacuum areas using those overhangs, which cause the flow to skip onto the tops & tips of the overhangs that look like fat, wide, & flat circular saw blade teeth with little groves cut into to vortex the flow around the corner & so on more quickly & efficiently. Also in those older videos.

This, is mine, just like all the other comments, all my designs. Only, no help with AI, simulators, or maths, school, etc.

Just brute forcing it. Being very genius all the time.

Anyways, the collector comes to a tip nose that uses the reed valves that the have that work with the split (just like yours, right) intake that funnels in & splits into the previously mentioned wrapped around (like yours) intake manifold that uses vgt, dvt (similar to vgt interestingly enough, dude on youtube did one of the only videos about it in existence), & a twin scroll blade design that takes advantage of a hourglass shape to the blades that are made to work with a center higher pressure, then to housing that has stators that are hollow that then work & act on middle pressure blades fashioned to the housing which turns an inner shaft that is a bearing to the housing that holds that down, that then goes to the largest blades for the lowest pressure all in a jules-thompson like effect, using basic parabolic spike curve (hersey's kisses) end tips that have the flow go back 180 degrees then back towards the flow I want.

I call it a lemke turbine, of which I have several designs of those.

This is a inner hollow shaft, that then spreads it out & causes a vacuum to form behind the blades that use tip vortexes to force it into the hollow stator blades that then get flow moving for the about to show up exhaust pulse flow from where the parabolic curve spike (again correctly sized hersey kiss here) redirects flow into those middle sized blades, which do the same as the center, to then get it going into the largest blade packs. The shafts/axels are connected together so all of them rotate the compressor.

Eventually the port reed valve just turned into the intake thing being allowed to happen into the ports to cool them off, I always run too much boost. I think of it as a boost flywheel device because it takes heat out & I can thin everything down, then cause it to be used up in the turbine without needing to use much more than timed anti-lag which I outlined before on my tumblr like... For the 4th or 6th time, commenting on driving for answers video.

Basically, I just wait to spark really late as the exhaust valve opens, so the burn gets squeezed through the nozzle choke point & out the port using the piston head's flywheel energy, compressing the gas & fuel mix & making it flow faster. Timing was the big deal on that one. Because, I had to then change it to not melt my ports while still doing that, but again I outline that in that tumblr post that is the comment I left for him on how I do that for engine tuning.

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I'm going to be honest, I've only gotten to 5.43 (nice trailing down number cool! :D) & I thought about the printer I remembered seeing from the thumbnail & went, "that needs an aperture. Straight up, needs a better sidewall box frame that stiffens it. Like, even angles that then have a + towards the center & then some more angles to the other angles would work. It's too willing to bend & flex I bet. Tool steel would stiffen it I guess, but that's probably super expensive, same for chromeolly steel. But man I don't doubt that thing bends a good amount. That and, it might suck but a heated enclosure would be something it needs. Might need to run on a separate circuit, sure, but worth it for making sure prints don't warp." & thought to myself about how to do that.

A space heater & some more aluminum extrusions is probably the easiest way, if you wanted a box fan with the activated carbon filters & hepa for those asa/abs prints & or carbon fiber filled filaments. Nylon is so nice like that, expensive though.

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hopefully getting all those parts that got damaged will be able to help work it out into shape, but after assembly it can warp the rest thanks to torquing it down, only about a few mm at worst so you'll have to wait to see if that happened. It can also be that the other parts that seemed, at first, not damaged were in fact damaged.

This stuff scares me. Genuinely just have to send it like you say & hope. Hate that stuff.

I was thinking about how much the hydraulic press pushed it & started going to heating & rolling stuff. Eventually went.... WEeellllll.... Why not go all the way with pipes & just drilling with that mill you've got & forcing the plate into micron flatness. I meaannnn... Is it ssoooo bad?

Maybe. I have no idea. I might be a pain in the rear end. So a laser to micron size is easier, its the measurement of it which is the harder part. Anyways, I hope that parts come around well. The hardest part of 3d printing, is learning that settings are always right & wrong & it heavily depends on everything.

my experience is a bad one full of bad mistakes i've made & the manufacturer made making the printer I have. Often trading blows in our end result of making bad happen with each other. Don't use my experience as a reference, too much at least.

I dunno man, I'm fairly sure they've got you covered, if you bought it from them, its typically in warranty. For diffusers? Ummmm.... asa foam core & slide over a carbon fiber nylon that you truck bed liner spray paint on, then bake in quartz sand to anneal it & weld them together. A good sand mold will force it into working pretty well.

If not that, abs/asa is dependent on how much give it has, diffusers are long straight lines & the layer adhesion isn't the best & it will like to tear right where the layer is. So, cnckitchen has done a few tests & angle prints (like 45 degrees) help, but asa & abs both have stupidly huge amounts of warping which is just annoying to deal with, so nylon is the better way & glass filled is the better way to avoid carbon fiber fibers from getting into you skin & lungs while giving you basically the same level of stiffness but a slightly higher amount of weight. They also bond better too, the layers that is. Typically. It's dependent though.

Supports for overhangs aren't terrible, learning the right thickness of relief curves in the part help out a lot, especially with warping. Lots of wonderful 3d printer channels on youtube, for what it is worth.