#raysmithphotography

I’ve been looking again at my archive — not simply to reproduce old photographs, but to use them as material for new work.

Here, an image of the Skern becomes the backdrop: the estuary, exposed mud and gathering storm already carrying their own atmosphere. Into it, I have brought together the buzzard and a reimagined fashion figure, allowing separate photographs and ideas to meet in one new image.

The backdrop is no longer just scenery. It becomes part of the narrative — place, subject and memory working together.

A raw, poetic exploration of historical subversion, casual indifference and 1990s British romanticism.

THE CREDITS

Photography: Ray Smith Photography Styling: Sharon Hilton Fashion: Vivienne Westwood archive — historical silhouettes and textured knitwear from the Anglomania era Model: New Face from Models 1 — and a full-time skateboarder Location: Sharon’s garden, North London Camera: 1947 MPP 5×4 Film: Polaroid Type 55 positive/negative film Colourised

THE STORY

Shot quietly on a Sunday afternoon, this editorial channels the spirit of Vivienne Westwood’s design language: historical tailoring, British subversion, romantic texture and a refusal to behave politely.

The model had recently come through Models 1, but she was far more interested in skateboards than fashion or the scene around it. That detachment became part of the pictures.

There were no synthetic backdrops or high-fashion pretences. Westwood’s theatrical, textured clothes were placed into the honest landscape of a North London garden — overgrown hedges, weathered brickwork, a domestic washing line and found objects.

The Type 55 negatives had to be kept wet in a tank full of clearing liquid, all the way back to my darkroom in Brighton. They were later printed by Jono at Jono’s Darkroom.

The clothes, the model, the location and the pale London light did the work.

1990s, North London Roof of the stylist’s house.

Original black-and-white Type 55 photograph shown beside a later colourised interpretation.

Shot on a 1947 MPP 5×4 using Polaroid Type 55 positive/negative film, then printed by me as a silver gelatin print.

The colour version is not the original capture, but another reading of the same image — keeping the old border, rooftop atmosphere, sheer dress, white socks and pale London sky.

Some people photograph well because they are polished.

Others photograph well because they are real.

That is the kind of portrait I am interested in.

Faces with character. Eyes that have seen things. People with humour, style, history, work, scars, confidence, doubt, oddness, beauty, awkwardness, strength.

Not perfect faces.

Interesting ones.

I am now booking portrait sittings in North Devon for people who want something more lasting than a phone picture.

A sitting is simple. You arrive. We talk. You settle. I photograph you properly.

No forced posing. No fake lifestyle act. No trying to make you look like everyone else.

The aim is to make a portrait that feels like you — but stronger, clearer, and worth keeping.

For artists. Writers. Business owners. Local characters. Couples. Families. Founders. Performers. People with a story.

Studio-style or location-based.

If you have ever thought, “I should have a proper portrait taken,” this is probably the time.

Message SITTING for details.

Handheld 645. Ektachrome 200. New faces board.

These are original tear sheets from a 1997 advertorial shoot for Schuh, photographed in East London behind a warehouse loading bay.

Medium format 645. Natural daylight. No set build—just concrete, brick, and whatever the location gave back.

The model was new—second shoot. She went on to be a success.

What mattered here was placement. Letting the shoes carry the frame. Letting the film do the colour work. Slight softness, that Ektachrome palette, and just enough edge from the location to stop it feeling polished.

No digital safety net. You exposed properly or you didn’t.

Credits (as printed)

Alex: Blue sequinned dress: Solo Soba at Speed Queen, £195 & Sign of the Times fluffy blue jacket: Top Shop Black patent 3 strap mule shoes £34.99

Kristen: Stripey skirt and top by Mac And Magee Skirt £17.99, Top £20.99 Black and white patent ‘Tulip’ bar court shoes, £34.99

Alex: Stripey dress: Mac And Magee, £29.99 Orange mohair jumper: Karen Millen White leather ‘Emma’ zip knee boots, £69.99

Kristen: Black and white mod dress: Miss Selfridge, £29.99 Black and white patent ‘Tulip’ bar court shoes, £34.99

Alex: Black velvet jacket: Name Workshop, £249 Orange crushed velvet hipsters: Karen Millen, £75 Black patent ring sandals, £49.99

Black satin shirt: Miss Selfridge, £32.99 Black and white pinstripe hipsters: Name Workshop, £70 White patent stiletto cross vamp shoes, £49.99

All sunglasses: Name Workshop, £58 All boots and shoes: Schuh Bags from a selection at Poshat at Sign of the Times Tights: Jonathan Aston Hair accessories: Miss Selfridge, £2.99 Satin bags: Shu-Uemura Liberty in London, £30

A loading bay. A roll of film. A new face.