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Sciamat SS16 Pitti Preview

The opportunity to browse Sciamat’s creations is one that resembles a nirvana-esque experience for any menswear enthusiast, let alone those truly encompassed by the sartorial universe. Mind you, I’m no authority when it comes to bespoke: I am however, wholeheartedly passionate about the art of tailoring, its different schools and evolution, thus my eagerness to learn is what drives me on a continuous pursuit of empiric knowledge. The thing about Sciamat and the vision Valentino and Nicola Ricci materialize into each garment, is that its uniqueness is equally fresh for a native Italian gentleman, as for any foreigner (virtually) unacquainted with Neapolitan tailoring. 

The array of exquisitely crafted unlined/unstructured jackets portray an unparalleled fluidity, a trait not commonly associated with suiting. The lightness and movement on each jacket is a thing of beauty, especially when you actually put it on and let it adjust to your torso feeling like a second skin. This whole sensation is highlighted by the ease and curated carelessness with which Nicola handles the jackets: knowing its intricacies, he treats them with respect and care, without ever losing track of their clothing essence and the fact they’re meant to be worn, folded, pulled and subject to stress. These masterpieces are not to be on display, they are meant to bring their wearers an ultimate sense of confidence and elegance. 

The Gigi SS16 Pitti Preview

Within the chaotic haste that envelops Pitti, there was one particular subject that seemed to gather a general consensus, during the brief rendezvous with fellow bloggers, designers and journalists: the staleness of the event itself. Despite the always alluring atmosphere, friendly reencounters, events and millions spent in each edition, the truth remains that if you are a recurrent visitor (+4 years), the chances of still being amazed by a new brand or product are residual. 

However, every once in a while a new project comes up that just seems to disrupt that static curtain and bring something extremely refreshing to the table: The Gigi is one of those select few. It’s very creation and history involves an extremely bold move from its founders, with the result being a product that seeks uniqueness through a dichotomic approach on the traditional: on the one hand it maintains the classic, time-tested elegance and industry know-how, while on the other it aims to break with overly conservative notions without “looking back”. 

Sastreria 91 SS16 Pitti Preview

Showcasing once again at the “Make” area of the Padiglione Centrale at Pitti, was one of the most charismatic and outstandingly talented duos I’ve had a change of meeting to this day. As if their carefully curated bespoke attires weren’t enough to unleash a shooting spree amongst street style photographers, their trademark bow tie collection caused a similar impression on all those who passed by their stand. Besides the bespoke creations I presented a couple of weeks ago during my visit to Madrid, one of their side projects consists of an exclusive line of handmade bow ties, made from luxurious and exotic materials. The superb use of iridescent feathers from pheasants, quails, mallards and other exquisite birds, results in a product that is both unique and highly sophisticated. 

Pitti, day 2

Photo by our friend Mikolaj of Blue Loafers.

The Dude at Pitti