#knitpattern

Gauge 10 stitches x 13 rows = 4x4” swatch (POST BLOCKING)

Needles 10mm circular 9mm circular

Materials (Used in the finished pictures) Miss Babs K2 yarn 2 skeins Naked (480 yd) 1 skeins Lacewing (240 yd) 1 skeins Moss (240 yd) 960 yd total Any 3 color way in a bulky yarn should serve you well. I loved working with Miss Babs because of its color and strand consistency.

Stitches to Know K - knit K4B - knit 4 below K2tog - knit 2 together P - purl P2tog - purl 2 together KFB - knit front and back M1R - make 1 right M1L - make 1 left M1P- make 1 purl wise PM - place marker

Raglan Increases are worked on the right side of the work, at each side of a raglan-st. The raglan-st is a normal stitch and is worked as k1 on the RS and p1 on the WS. I placed stitch markers to either side of the raglan stitches to keep track. The increases are worked as: M1R: Using the left needle, pick up the loop between two stitches from the back, k1. M1L: Using the left needle, pick up the loop between two stitches from the front, k1 tbl. In the first row of the pattern I indicate this at raglan-st(M1L, PM, k, PM, M1R) for the left side and raglan-st(M1R, PM, K, PM, M1L) for the right side. Afterwards I refer to it as (M1L, K, M1R) or (M1R, K, M1L). Always ensure the markers are directly on either side of the knit stitch, not the increase.

Bubble stitch calls for multiples of 4+3, so I cast on 39 stitches on the 10mm needles. Do not join to knit in the round yet, because we first work a few rows flat to create the back.

Cast-On/Yoke CAST ON: 39 stitches with Color 1 (for me its Naked) WORKING FLAT (WS) Row 1: P across (RS) Row 2: k1, raglan-st(M1L, pm, k, pm, M1R), k8, M1L, raglan-st(M1L, pm, k, pm, M1R), k17, raglan-st(M1R, pm, k, pm, M1L), k8, raglan-st(M1R, pm, k, pm, M1L), k1 Row 3: P across Row 4: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1. Row 5: P across Row 6: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1. Row 7: P across Row 8: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1. Row 9: P across Row 10: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1. Row 11: P across Row 12: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1. Row 13: P across There should be 97 stitches on your needles Join the work into a round on the next row Row 14: k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to end of row. cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the row. Join to continue knitting in the round, making sure that your work is not twisted. Row 15: K to the first raglan-st. The beginning of the round is now moved to this point. There should be 111 stitches on your needles.

The work should be divided as: 1 raglan-st, 22 stitches (left sleeve), 1 raglan-st, 31 stitches (back), 1 raglan-st, 22 stitches (right sleeve), 1 raglan-st, 32 stitches (front).

Work in stockinette stitch in the round, while at the same time working raglan increases on every other round: *(M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to end of row* On the next round, k across all sts.* Repeat from * to * a total of 6 times for 159 stitches.

Body Place the 34 sleeve stitches on either side on hold while you knit the body. I placed mine slipped through leftover yarn to secure them while I worked the body.

Cast on 4 sts at each underarm (total 99 stitches), with your preferred in-row cast on method. The beginning of the round in now under the left arm. Place a marker in the middle of the new sts at the left underarm to indicate the new beginning of round. This is the beginning of the bubble stitch pattern. This is the basic bubble stitch pattern: ** Row 1: Knit across Row 2: Knit across Row 3: Knit across Row 4: Knit across Row 5: Knit across NOTE: when changing yarn color, do so after this row, before starting Row 6 Row 6: Knit 3, * Knit 4 Below, Knit 3 * ** Work 3 repetitions in Color 1 (Naked) Change to Color 2 (Lacewing) on the third repetition for row 6 Work 2 repetitions in Color 2 (Lacewing) Change to Color 3 (Moss) on the second repetition for row six Work 3 repetitions in Color 3 (Moss)

This gave me a slightly cropped look, which I was going for. If you want a longer sweater, I think adding a pattern repetition in Color 2 (for a total of 3 repetitions) will give the desired length. Try on the sweater to determine if the length is right for you, before beginning to work the bottom rib. Change to the 9 mm circular needles and work 5 rows in rib (k1, p1). Bind off in established rib pattern.

Neckband RS facing, with the 8mm circular needles pick up and knit 69 stitches, starting at the transition between back and sleeve. The number of stitches to be picked up corresponds to approximately picking up 1 stitch per stitch along the neckline. In the sloped part of the neckline, you pick up 1 stitch for every row, corresponding to 10 stitches at either side.

Work 6 rounds in k1, p2 rib (k1, p2) (69 stitches) Work 1 round with *k1, p2tog* decreases until the end of the round (46 stitches) Work 6 rounds in k1, p1 rib Work 1 round with * K1, p1, M1P* increases until the end of the round (69 stitches) Work 5 rounds in k1, p2 rib. Bind off loosely in established rib pattern.

Fold the neckband down so the seam and bound off edge line up together. I crocheted the two seams together using a single crochet, but you could also mattress seam or sew these two together.

Sleeves Note that the sleeves are extra-long to give that voluminous look. They are knit using the Magic Loop technique.

Back to Color 1! Place the 34 sleeve stitches on hold for one of the sleeves back onto a 10mm circular needle. Pick up and knit the 4 stitches cast on at the underarm (total 38 stitches). The beginning of the round is in the middle of these 4 new stitches. The first 27 rows should be worked in stockinette, adding a one stitch increase every other row *Row 1: knit across Row 2: k1, kfb, k across* . . . Row 27: knit across There should be 47 stitches on your needles.

Refer to the body section for the bubble stitch pattern. Work 3 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 1 (Naked) Change to Color 2 (Lacewing) on the third repetition before row 6 Work 4 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 2 (Lacewing) Change to Color 3 (Moss) on the second repetition before row six Work 4 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 3 (Moss)

Change to 8 mm (magic loop or dpns). Next round: * k2tog, p2tog *, repeat from * to * until the end of the round (24 stitches). Work 5 rounds in a k1, p1 rib. Bind off in established rib pattern.

Work the other sleeve identically.

Finishing Weave in the ends and block. I use Soak Wash for my knitted items because it’s no rinse.