Ask anyone about their favourite comfort food and they’re bound to reply with a list they turn to when they need an emotional lift, or they use to celebrate an already great mood. Ice cream, chips, chocolate, pizza. Those four top most lists.
I don’t have any reliable statistics to fall back on but I believe Canadians have another category of favourites -- a list of foods they call on to combat dreary weather. It might not even be just Canadians. Perhaps every northern population has a mental list of meals designed to erase the shuddering effects of bone-chilling drizzle interspersed with mucky puddles of gloom. Or maybe it’s just me.
Just about all winter stews and casseroles fit into this category. These are the foods that warm you from the inside out. Winter makes such harsh demands on us that these meals most often have a nostalgic component- the chicken casserole your grandmother made, the beef stew that carried you through algebra in February or even the after hockey practice Sloppy Joes.
By the time spring rolls around we’re ready for green around us and on our plates. Fiddleheads, asparagus, ramps, lettuces, peas and beans. Bury me in green.
But some Springs don’t come skipping down the lane gathering songbirds and lilacs along the way. Some Springs are surly and given to hiding behind torrential downpours and purse-snatching winds. Nasty business.
It’s too late in the year for me to make another stew. I’ve had my fill. Another mac and cheese would fit the bill, but not my wardrobe, so I’m looking to another country altogether for some lift.
I’ve never been to Morocco. I’ve seen the pictures and heard plenty of stories most of which involved some 70′s haze and dodgy characters, but it’s the food that attracts. Morocco’s most famous food profile is couscous, bold spice, and slow cooking in a tagine. Turmeric, cinnamon, cumin and ginger play leading roles. The history of the country means there’s a melding of many cultures in the kitchen-Berber, Arab, Moor, Ottoman and French. This dish is an amalgam rather than a faithful recreation of a traditional dish, but it’s sunny and just the thing to brighten a grey day.
Ingredients
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ tsp salt
½ preserved lemon diced and 1 tbsp lemon juice or ¼ cup lemon juice
2 tsps ground cumin
1tsp cinnamon
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp ground ginger
Pepper to taste
1 small cut up chicken 1-2 lbs (save backbone for stock) cleaned and patted dry
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large can diced tomatoes (796 ml approx. 27 ounces)
1 large can chickpeas, rinsed (540 ml approx 19 ounces)
¼ cup sultana raisins
¼ cup chopped fresh coriander
Method
Mash garlic and ½ teaspoon salt with a mortar and pestle until a paste forms. Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in lemons and/or lemon juice, and dry spices.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cast iron is the best if you have one.
Sear chicken until lightly browned. About 5 minutes per side. Remove from pan and set aside.
Sauté onion in same pan, stirring up browned bits. Add garlic mash, lemon and spices and stir until well combined and started to heat through. Add tomatoes (including liquid) and drained chickpeas. Reduce heat to medium low and return chicken to pan. Chicken should be cooked through in 15-20 minutes. At this point you can sprinkle it all with chopped cilantro and serve with couscous, or remove from heat, let cool and freeze it until some grey dreary day when you want a bit of colour to pick up your dinner mood.
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