Nurhaci, Emperor Taizu of Qing (1559 – 1626) by anonymous court painter. Beijing Palace Museum.

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Nurhaci, Emperor Taizu of Qing (1559 – 1626) by anonymous court painter. Beijing Palace Museum.

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Before I sleeby here's an old messy thing I never posted of a Jurchen girl
Today's studies!
I started with Japanese today. 7 hours in total (I think I need to study even more later)
Some quick notes for Japanese. I was super tired so don't mind the handwriting!
Next came Mongolian, again don't mind the handwriting. I'm a beginner in cyrillic writing!
After this, I studied the traditional Mongolian writing system. It's challenging!
Does anyone have tips for this writing system? I keep forgetting it!
Lastly some Jurchen!
I love how I can recognize some familiar words already!
What languages have you been studying lately?
Hello! This isn’t a hanfu question but i was wondering if you know what pre-qing/1600s Manchu/Jurchen women’s fashion looked like? or have any pics/sources? tried searching around but there seems to be no english sources covering this? thank you!
Hi!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the question. Sorry that it takes so long to reply.
The short answer regarding the question is, there really isn’t much materials on Manchu clothing before they entered the Shanhaiguan Pass (1644 AD). The Manchurians practiced cremation and only switched to burial in Qianglong period. Hence, there aren’t much artifacts before that. The Manchu clothing only started to be standardized under Nurhaci rule (1616-1626 AD). However, it is known that the Jurchen’s clothing was heavily influenced by other ethnic groups, as they obtained fabrics either by trades or other methods from the Han people and Joseonins.
The Manchu clothing designs, on the other hand, are heavily influenced by the Mongolians, as seen in Jurchen’s clothing that shared many elements with the Mongolians clothing. Manchu and Mongol clothings (the Khorchin Mongols especially) were rather similar even at the later period of Qing dynasty.
Figure 1:Comparison of the Khorchin and Manchu women robes.
Figure 2: The chaofu show clearly that it is not the usual round-collar robe that the Manchurian wear. The separate bottom tied it to the Mongolian robe Jisum (质孙服), while things similar to the ulhun (not sure if this is the correct word. shawl-collar 披肩领)and the waha cuff (horse’s hoof thing) also could be seen in some Yuan dynasty paintings as well.
Later in Hong Taiji period, the official uniform were designed with elements of Han (Ming dynasty) clothing. After the Manchurians entered the Shanhaiguan Pass and into area predominantly occupied by Han Chinese, they also incorporated many elements of Han Chinese, especially the auspicious motifs.
The Jurchens originally worn robes with the right lapel over the left lapel (zuoren), but based on my very little observation, I think by the time of Later Jin (i.e. before they officially called themselves Manhu and Qing dynasty), wearing the left lapel over the right lapel (youren) was rather common. They usually worn a round collar robe (sijigiyan ᠰᡳᠵᡳᡤᡳᠶᠠᠨ), often lied with fur. The characteristic cuff type is the waha ᠸᠠᡥᠠ (箭袖jianxiu or 马蹄袖 matixiu – sleeve shaped like horse’s hoof), which can be foled up. On top of the robe they could wear a jacket such as olbo ᠣᠯᠪᠣ (马褂)or a sleeves vest(坎肩)The robes could be accessorized with belt, small purses and scarf. In the Later Jin and early Qing-dynasty, the women and men robes were very similar. One could wear a skirt called huusihan (霍锡罕), but it was gone from the wardrobe relatively quickly after the Manchurians entered the Shanhaiguan Pass, and it seemed to be only remained as part of the chaofu.
Figure 4: Empress Dowager Xiaozhuang in Changfu常服. Apparently it was rather rare for women to wear this type of robe without a jacket.
They usualy worn with leather shoes lined with Carex meyeriana (乌拉草/靰鞡草) called hvwaitame sabu (strape shoes, but in Han Chinese it is referred as wula xie靰鞡鞋 – came from the name of the grass foyo orho). Boots came later.
Figure 4: hvwaitame sabu
Both men and women braided their hair (men shaved most of their hair). Men worn hats (many types). Women wear many ear rings. Men could wear one on each ear when young.
Reference:
记法国国家图书馆中一本很厉害的满文字典——服饰篇(一),记法国国家图书馆中一本很厉害的满文字典——服饰篇(二) Some notes on some clothing terms in the Manchu language.
从满族传统服饰变迁看满族文化观_王忠欢 Talk generally about different types of Manchu clothing.
清代满蒙女子服装研究_赵琦 Comparison of the Khorchin and Manchu clothing.
清入关前朝服考_王业宏 Talking about early chaofu - with pictures.
清前期皇室及贵族服饰研究_刘菲 The most detail thesis of all, and talk about individual pieces, and lots of pictures as well.
I hope this answer some of your questions. There probably are much more info in printed books and other resources. I know next to nothing about Manchu clothing. If anyone have more info on this feels free to add on. Perhaps @audreydoeskaren would have more information. Thanks in advance.
Hairstyles and clothing were one of the primary indicators of ethnic identity (and political allegiance) in East Asia until very recently. For the Chinese, adults could not cut their hair as per Confucian tradition, so would gather it into a topknot (while Buddhist monks shaved their heads). Therefore, to the Chinese the stereotype of the 'northern barbarian' is long, often braided hair. Mongols were distinguished by their shaved heads and looped hair behind their ears, while the Manchu were famous for the long queue from the back of their heads. During the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu hairstyle was imposed onto the Han Chinese to mark their submission to the Qing. This article here by Michael Godley (1994, published in East Asian History,) discusses some of the history of the queues and interactions of nomad and Chinese hair styles. It seems there is evidence the 12th and 13th century Jurchen of the Jin Dynasty wore their hair in a queue as well. And the Jurchen of course, are the ancestors of the Manchu.
http://www.eastasianhistory.org/sites/default/files/article-content/08/EAH08_03.pdf
Chin Han as Jia Sidao in Netflix's Marco Polo, with a Chinese topknot. Song Ministers would normally wear hats though, as a matter of station. Variations of this were standard up until the Qing Dynasty. As the hair was a gift from the parents, Confucian teachings indicated it could not be cut.
Mongol plaits, as worn by Amarsaikhan Baljinnyam as Ariq Böke in Netflix's Marco Polo.
The Khitan hair style. The head was shaved except around the temples and ears. At the temples it's left to grow long. Depicted in many Song Dynasty paintings.
One example of the queue. There were variations (I.e, how much of the head was shaved) but this is generally along the lines of what is meant. Supposedly the medieval Jurchen wore their hair thus.
I can't find a good image at the moment, but the Tangut had their own: the top of the head was shaved, but a fringe was left arount the rest. At the temples of was grown long to frame the face. A bit like a European monk's tonsure. It's very ugly.

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Angolmois: Record of Mongol Invasion Review
Before there was Jin Sakai, the Ghost of Tsushima, there was Kuchii Jinzaburō, the Sun God of Tsushima.
Just binged watch this seriously underrated and brilliant historical anime about the Mongols Invasion of Japan. While Jin Sakai is known for being a Ghost due to his stealth and Ninja like attacks, Kuchii Jinzaburo is known for being like the Sun God of Tsushima, Tendou Houshi, for his ferocity in battle. This is what Yasuke anime could have been, without the robots, demons and magic, just swords, bows and arrows.
Blending real historical events, clans and characters such as Sō Sukekuni, the Lord of Tsushima, Hon Dagu, the Goryeo Commander of Yuan Forces, Hojo Clan, Shino Clan, Abiru Clan and even Emperor Antoku, with fictional ones. While historically, Antoku died as a child, drowning at sea when the Taira Clan was cornered by the Minamoto Clan during the final stages of Genpei War, in this anime, he survives and has his own Clan to defend Tsushima.
The anime is based on the manga series of the same name. The term Angolmois comes from the prophecies of Nostradamus about the reign of a great king of Angolmois, whom is said to be the one to destroy the world. Angolmois is intrepreted as being an anagram of the Latin word Mongolais or Mongolians, which is believed to be referring to none other than Genghis Khan.
While there is no small characters in this anime as every character is critical and unique in their own ways, serving different purpose with their own agendas and motives, which affects everyone in the show, the anime’s main two characters are Kuchii Jinzaburo and Princess Teruhi.
Kuchii is a former Samurai and Retainer from Kamakura who became an exile after losing his family. He was imprisoned and sent to Tsushima along with the other exiles but was caught in a storm during which he survived with a few others and was welcomed by the daughter of the Lord of Tsushima, much to his surprise as they were supposed to be imprisoned.
But he learns of the true motives of the Princess during a night feast when she commands them to fight for Tsushima against the Mongols instead, causing an uproar as fighting the Mongols are as good as being dead and have better chance of living as prisoners. However, after an assassination attempt on the Princess which made her more determined to protect her people, Kuchii finally agrees to help her, along with the support of the exiles.
One thing led to another, as Kuchii became acquainted with the So Clan thanks to the Princess. However, they got off the wrong foot when Kuchii became contempt with the Lord’s obsession with past glories of war and his complacency in fighting the coming war with the Mongols which will only put his men and people in jeopardy. Kuchii also learns why Teruhi was called a princess due to her precious bloodline to the Taira Clan which was eradicated during Genpei War.
While Kuchii and the exiles did not get along in the beginning due to their different standing and views of war and honor, they eventually learnt to work and fight together after their first defeat against the Mongols which resulted in the death of their Lord, leaving the So Clan under the command of his adopted son and daughter, Teruhi, who did not see eye to eye how to lead their Clan, until Kuchii intervenes to “wake them up”.
From here on, they made their journey to the capital, hoping to regroup and make a stand but only to find it destroyed by the Mongols, so they had to keep on moving to find another safe spot to hide from, which causes low morale on the troops and civilians, as they ponder their fate and wonders how long do they need to keep running and surviving in this never ending war, where the enemies seem to be multiplying and help never seem to come.
Hope turned to despair and desperation, as some began to turn against their own people, for their own survival as hardship reveals the true colors of humanity. It’s an intriguing tale of survival and how you choose to live the last days of your lives, to either hide and wait for death to come at your door or to fight till the death, knowing you had tried your best to ensure your own survival.
It is a must watch for anime and non-anime fans alike, whether you’re a history buff or not. Personally, I find the level of historical accuracy to be quite interesting in a sense that it actually shows the Mongol army consisting of Goryeo (Korea), Jurchen (Manchuria) and the Mongolians themselves which explains their massive fleet, just as explained by the YouTube history channel of Kings and Generals. Kings and Generals videos:
Mongols: Invasions of Japan 1274 and 1281 DOCUMENTARY Real Ghost of Tsushima - Mongol Invasion of Japan DOCUMENTARY
I wouldn’t know of this anime if it wasn’t for a fellow Tumblr who recommended this to me! Check out the trailer below!
Writing systems in China. 中国的文字。
From the top: Nvshu women’s script, Jurchen, Manchurian, Yi, Dai (Dehong), Nakhi Dongba, Dai (Xishuangbanna), Zhuang, Sui
Dear the person who asked about pre-qing/1600s Manchu/Jurchen women’s fashion,
I am not familiar with those so I looked around but there did not seem to be a centre-hub or a blogger on weibo who specialise on that (or I had used the wrong key word to search). While there are many articles in CNKI but it would take time for me to summarize them and currently I am a bit preoccupied with other commitment. I promise I would get back to it sometime before September. Pinky promise, because I am curious too.
If anyone have any information on those please share!
Thank you.