A main food source of the Aurum Vanatum butterfly is Mortem Insusurrans, colloquially known as the Ghost flower. They are not indigenous to any one place, but crop up unexpectedly in usually lush deciduous wooded areas experiencing drought and high temperatures. Folklore associates both this flower and butterfly with bad omens, likely because of the link with droughts. The flower has rigid petals and when wind blows across them, it often creates a high sighing sound, not unlike a small wind harp. The enduring belief is that these flowers call to humans - a very high number of people have reported hearing their name being sung. It is very ill-advised to seek out the source of the calls, however. Humans can easily succumb to the flower’s paralytic qualities. During bloom, this plant lets off a soporific pollen that can paralyze human lungs if breathed in, occasionally resulting in death. If you are hiking in a dry forest and hear your name being whispered/sung to you, walk in the other direction. Some people call them fairy/fae flowers for this reason, believing the sounds to be fae tempting humans into their realm/death. Due to their rarity and deadliness, very few of these flowers have ever been seen, let alone photographed.
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So I made this skirt, and I kind of love it so much that I live in this now. It was also very simple, and very efficient. The skirt has a mostly-rectangular front and back, plus pockets in the side seams and a simple folded waistband. I started with about a 1.25m square of wool-blend with a fade line after about a metre, so I cut at the line to separate the skirt pieces and the yoke and pockets.
Never mind how Tumblr feels the need to flip the image: this is how I measured and cut my skirt pieces. You know how, if you have a hockey butt, your front length is shorter than your back length? I thought, what if I adjusted for that by cutting a slow curve that goes from the middle at the sides to an inch or so off at the centre, so the front is a little shorter and the back is a little longer, and the selvedge edges are the bottom hem. I might have overcorrected, or possibly because it’s sitting higher my posture corrects a little, but I have no complaints about a slight high-low.
Anyhow, once you’ve cut your skirt pieces (mine were each able to wrap around my hips, so the skirt is nice and full), cut pocket pieces and a waistband from the extra bit. (Of course you’re adding pockets.) Stitch up the side seams with those pockets in them - I would give instructions for this, but honestly I’ve yet to figure out the best order of operations for pockets). Love yourself and finish these seams. Now comes the fun bit of pleating the mass of skirt into your waist measurement.
On my skirt, I used double inverted box pleats at the front (or paired double knife pleats) centred roughly over my ASIS or princess seams. I doubled the pleats because there was SO MUCH to take up, and otherwise it interfered with my pockets. For the back, I did 1″ knife pleats from the centre out, which I like, but which I would change in two ways: I would double the centre pleats (essentially make a double box pleat at the back) to give it a little more oomph, and I would adjust the pleats to stop them about 2″ further back a than they do, because these pleats are weirdly visible from the front. I decreased the front and back evenly into a 36″ waist; given that my front waist is a bit larger than my back waist, this brings my side seams and pockets forward just a bit in a way I really like.
Add the waistband (I like to stitch one side, then fold the centre, then finish the other side, but I also got impatient and finished this by hand). My quirky anatomy means I don’t need any fastenings for something this loose (if it fits my waist and can squish past my bust, it fits over my shoulders), but finish with whatever you like. If you want the full length and your selvedge is nice, leave it, or maybe add a ribbon or some lace. If you want to take up some length, finish the hem normally, and laugh at how you don’t need to double-turn to avoid fraying.
And that’s it! I ended up with two 10cm squares from the yoke and some corner scraps from the pockets, but otherwise used all of this lovely wool. I have an old silk skirt that makes a great petticoat, and I can pair this with anything from a t-shirt and cardigan to a linen blouse and waistcoat. No regrets! I would love to see if any of you make something similar. You could also do this with cartridge pleats if you want to make it poof out even more.
Imagine Loki hand-stitching a life-size (five feet three inches) plush Volcarona as a gift for you because he knows it’s your favourite Pokemon (he finds the games intriguing and mystifying in equal measure, but he knows you love them and he *really* likes you)
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