#dounuki

Title: Shibori dounuki Date:Mid to late Meiji period (1880-1912) Description:A specialized silk under-kimono featuring sections of stenciled motifs hand-sewn to silk sections of an shibori (tie-dye). These shibori sections of the dounuki are of the finest silk. The inner upper lining (doura) is of natural undyed hand-spun and woven silk

(* I have found different names for those middle layers, nakagi and dounuki  being apparently the most used)

A chirimen silk dounuki featuring bold shibori patterning and embroidery bamboo motifs. The dounuki is a specific style of inner kimono of a kimono set, characterized by sleeves and hem sections that are stitched to a main bodice body of contrasting material and pattern-work. The sleeves and bodice of this kimono have large lozenge motifs separated by smaller pebble-like ones, all accomplished in a sophisticated shibori (tie) due technique. The lozenge motif has been used by the Japanese for about fifteen hundred years, and for much of that time, was a motif favored by the aristocracy and military. The hem area is of chirimen silk, with embroidered bamboo motifs at each corner.

Edo Dounuki. Late Edo period (1800-1867), Japan.  The Kimono Gallery. A very fine silk inner kimono featuring refined shibori patterning as well as katazome faux-shibori. The dounuki is a specific style of inner kimono of a kimono set, characterized by sleeves and hem sections that are stitched to a main bodice body of contrasting material and pattern-work. The shibori (tie-dye) work on the bodice of this artefact is very subtle and refined: the large shibori white medallions were first created, then yuzen flower paintings put in each medallion as a second step. Thus creating this shibori was the result of lengthy and painstaking craftsmanship. The dot-pattern faux-shibori katazome stenciling was reserved to the sides/hem cloth adjacent to this shibori bodice.

Edo Dounuki.  Late Edo period (1800-1868), Japan.  The Kimono Gallery. A silk antique dounuki featuring magatama motifs with sparse metallic and silk embroidery highlights. The dounuki is a specific style of inner kimono of a kimono set, characterized by sleeves and hem sections that are stitched to a main body of contrasting material and patternwork. On the both sleeves and the lower back of this example are depictions of a stringed necklace of comma-shaped talisman "magatama" stones -- a very rare motif. Magatama literally means "curved ball"; these man-made stone creations date back to the ancient Jomon, Yayoi and Kofun cultures of Japan, when they were used to create necklaces and bracelets worn on the wrists or ankles. By the end of the Kofun period were made almost exclusively of jade, and functioned as ceremonial and religious objects Later, during the Heian period, the mirror, sword, and magatama were established as the Imperial Regalia of Japan. From early on, the magatama symbolized "avoidance of evil" or the "magic of good fortune", and holds special significance within Japan's home-grown Shinto religion. Interestingly, the researcher D.C. Holtam stated that norokumoi shamanesses of the Ryukyu Island of Japan wore magatama necklaces as late as the ealy 20th century for ceremonial purposes. 

A silk specialized underkimono called 'dounuki', featuring a bodice of uncut cloth of different patterns (called "kiredori") created by the katazome technique, bordered by a chirimen silk patterned lower and sides. Inner lining is of natural off-white handspun and handwoven tsmugi silk.  Late Edo to early Meiji period (1850-1880), Japan.  The Kimono Gallery

ichiroya presents this kimono as a houmongi (visiting wear) but the collar and the dark lower part truly make me think about a dounuki (inner kimono). This piece is very puzzling!