#nakagi

Lions are a favourite pattern and are not common to find. I also really, really love dragons, even more difficult to find in women's kimono. But then I tend to like "masculine" motifs or clothing in any culture. Dressing effeminately is something I can do, like a costume to put on. After a bit it needs to come off.

Modern internet culture is connected enough that now, there's a kind of queer community where we can talk about this outside of compulsory binaries in the LGB comm (because IF those people include the 'T', it's also only on a binary according to Euro-descent ideals.) That's a whole different conversation though, so.

The point is to recognise that sometimes, a motif may not be seen as 'primarily female' or 'primarily male' but will appear on kimono of either sex. Traditional gender expressions and social roles is a wildly different thing in context of Japanese culture and does not align to America ideas. Lions can be among them.

Since this is a kurotomesode, it is the most formal kimono that isn't an ofurisode. I was looking to examine it for Hatsumode and might as well dress the mannequin and take measurements, right?

Wrist to wrist: 50.5in / 128cm Sleeve length: 22.75in / 57.7cm Body width: 24.5in / 62cm Neck to hem: 60.5in / 153.5cm (before hem padding)

A shame the nakagi wasn't long enough for the kurotomesode. I suppose one of the things I could cut it for (eventually) is to install a false susoyoke layer that detaches from the kurotomesode I have. The antique kurotomesode does not have the false layer of white collars that modern kurotomesode have. This kimono has a bo eri, sewn completely in half already.

The juban is the phoenix juban I've posted about. I use it most often, I think, since I don't have to sew a collar to it.

The obi was difficult to decide. Since I rarely wear kurotomesode, maybe once every few years, I have kept very few obi that might fit the antique look for this formality. I only have three that might work; two have colouring or motifs that are completely wrong for it. This one is too new, but generally the correct colour, at least. It has some of the most gorgeous embroidery I've seen. The knots on the tassel ends are raised like French knots. The himo are textures as if they are himo, flattened. A mixture of woven motifs and embroidered silks.

Tare: 6.25in / 15.5cm wide x 90.55in / 230cm long Taiko: 12.25in / 31cm wide x 44.25in /112.5cm long

Since it's quite short, especially on my current measurements, I used a strong binder clip to assist in creating the taiko. There isn't nearly enough length for the preferred niijudaiko, but it doesn't look bad.

I'm not sure most people would have obi at the level required for this kimono, which can be tied as niijudaiko. There probably were, but that must have taken some good money to own something with so much brocade. Collecting antique kimono feels luxurious. Did the original wearers feel like this?

This nakagi has very long sleeves, despite it's short length!

The pattern is of beautiful Chinese-style clouds. The listing says "silk" but it feels almost synthetic. It's a bit too early for that kind of synthetic, I think, but a burn test will tell the truth. The way it's woven, it looks almost like a machine-made brocade. If this were a modern fabric I would say it was for sure. If someone else knows, I posted a very close-up photo at the bottom.

Wrist to wrist: 50.75in / 128.5cm Sleeve length: 28.25in / 71.5cm Body width: 24.75in / 62.5cm Neck to hem: 59.75in / 151.5cm

Hiro-eri, no snaps at the collars. Lining is an even-coloured aging cream-tan.

See, for the most part, it's beautiful! A shame the temperatures have gone up 10f / -12c. That's like... 18.3c to 24c in a century. Sounds small but when wearing three layers, 40 years before air conditioning, it is Not.

This is the lining. That even browning is probably from starch or something. I bet Silk + Bones knows.

That stain on the back is the largest one on the entire garment. There are a few very, very tiny ones elsewhere. If I don't cut it for fabric before gaining better embroidery skills, perhaps I'll embroider some hidden motifs in white over them, as if they were always there.