It all started, of course, after seeing Gong Jun walk the red carpet in that gorgeous Jason Wu creation. I was able to watch his walk live between work things; the whole thing only lasted maybe 2 minutes but it was the highlight of my day/week/month.

I was fixated on this suit for days afterwards, but it wasn’t until close to the end of May (probably a good 10 days later) that I decided to try and replicate this suit. It was partially motivated by the fact that my Cubao is the 15 cm version (the more common version is 20 cm) and it’s always so difficult to find doll clothes for that size (though it saves the wallet). Seeing as I have 13 years of cosplay experience, I was like “I’m used to frankensteining patterns to fit me, why not try in small scale? Less fabric, less stitching, how hard can it be?”

I was about to find out.

Having never made doll clothes before, I started by using stockpiled fabric to make mock ups while sourcing out fabric and other notions. First thing on my to-do list was pants. I had a pair of doll pants that were too small and short in the waist for Cubao’s rotund bum, so I deconstructed the pants and used it as a template for a mock up. I added about an inch to the top and about 1/4 of an inch to the bottom hem; after putting them on Cubao, I started pinning to the right height and length in order to determine where the hems and waist should be and the seam amounts. Last step was to add elastic and finish the seams.

This is the mock up in progress (left) and completed (right). It was a pretty simple process and moved pretty easily. Once I found fabric I liked (after purchased 4 other types that didn’t match the color - good thing about doll clothes is you don’t need a lot), I constructed the suit pants. I lined the suit pants since they were a bit translucent, and the extra fabric made them as little more snug than I anticipated, but it still turned out fine. The leg hems were finished by hand because I wanted and almost invisible stitching, and I always finish suit pants by hand. The pants fit well enough that I made two pairs of doll pants out of chambray fabric for my dolls to romp around in with other outfits.

Next was the shirt, and that was a process.

I started off with a pattern I found on Pinterest but original came from Xiaohongshu (I think, I can’t really make out the watermark). There were no measurements on the pattern so I had to undergo some trial and error sizing the pattern up on my printer. The sleeves seemed odd to me, so I initially reworked them to be raglan type sleeves thinking they would work better with Cubao’s mostly straight arms. Mock up #1 ended up fitting very poorly with the collar too low.

I sized up the pattern a smidgen, reprinted, and went back to the original sleeves. For mock up #2, I attempted to change the collar to mimic a more traditional shirt collar, which has two pieces - one neck piece and the actual collar. That turned out to be too much fabric for a little bao.

In the end, with mock up #3, I went back to the original shirt pattern and only omitting the extra fabric piece for the front closure, folding over instead. The collar opening ends up being a little wide, but not as much as my first attempt so I can live with the little gap.

Mock up #1 at the top, #2 on the left, and #3 on the right.

Overall the shirts were relatively easy, except for the sleeves. Sleeves have always been the bane of my cosplay/sewing existence; sewing sleeves on small scale was more difficult than I imagined given the tinier space to work with.

I actually made two suit shirts, one of a textured material and one of the same, slightly stretchy material used in mock ups #2 and #3. The textured material is more appropriate for shirts, but there was no stretch so getting it on Cubao was challenging.

Next came a little bowtie. I don’t have a lot to say about this process as it was pretty simple: sew two rectangles then attach them to an elastic band. Initially I wanted to mimic the double layer of Gong Jun’s bowtie, but that’s too much fabric for a tiny bao.

Last up but the most important part was the jacket. I started with the same shirt pattern but sized up again to ensure there was room to get both bao arms and sleeves in, also to accommodate the lack of stretch in the final fabric. The first mock up had no changes as it was done to see the fit and determine how the collar would be cut. After making the necessary trims, mock up #1 was deconstructed and the pieces were used as a templates to cut out mock up #2. In working with mock up #2, I realized that I wouldn’t be able to do a set in collar as I had hoped. The jacket collar is an important element to the suit so I didn’t want to not incorporate it. In the end, I decided to do stitching to mimic the lines of the collar.

Mock up #1 on the left with the front pinned down, and mock up #2 on the right with the collar stitch placement outlined in red.

Once the jacket was mostly sewn together, I laid it out on some pattern paper and traced around to get the general outline. I then used this outline to design the beading. There was little chance I would be able to replicate the beading exactly without seeing the suit in person, so I tried to incorporate some of the details that caught my eye (notably the swirl like patterns). Initially I had planned to do the beading on mesh fabric, cut it out, then sew it to the suit like actual bead work is done. After my initial attempts, I learned two things: that takes FOREVER on small scale, and the mesh fabric is very noticeable on a suit that small. My sketch was also way more detailed than feasibly possible on doll clothing. I ended up having to simplify the design and sew directly onto the suit jacket.

Initial sketch work on top, and beading process below. I tried to keep a loose tension during the beading so as not to cause any puckering of the jacket.

Miyuki Delica size 15/0 beads were used. Silver beads were the main design element with AB crystal beads as accents. The AB crystals came in two sizes; the larger ones were mostly used to give the design a little bit of dimension. Pearl colored beads were later used for the dangles. 15/0 are tiny beads to work with; most of the silver and AB beads were able to be threaded through a thin sewing needle, but the pearl beads required me to switch between sewing and beading needles to get them strung and sewn. For the dangles, I attempted to follow a similar pattern to the original, looping and hanging in the same places.

After the beading, the arms were sewn up and the sleeve hems, bottom hems, and inner collar were hand stitched down. Initially I had planned to line the jacket to make it a proper jacket. However, after constructing everything I found adding the lining increased the bulk and would make it impossible to get Cubao’s arms + shirt sleeves in.

Last was to add the hand made pipa knot closure in the front and the button knots on the sleeves. Both of these were made with 2.0 mm nylon macrame knotting cord and surprisingly very easy once you get the hang of it. The final touch was the brown shoes; these were purchased off Taobao using Superbuy as a proxy, and they arrived just yesterday, the day after I finished everything.

Overall, I am very pleased with the look. Construction was spaced out because of work and a bit of anxiety on my part. Concessions had to be made since bao clothing is on a much smaller scale. Naturally there was bits and pieces I’m not super pleased with, but overall I’m quite happy with the results. It was a feat, to say the least, replicating such an intricate design for a 15 cm doll. I’m glad I did it, but I’m also glad I don’t do this for a living. 😅