Masculine Gothic 🦇 — tips for passing
…because I feel like people struggle with the fine line of masc and fem in goth!
About me (afab trans masculine): I tend to dress in military goth, cybergoth, rivethead inspired outfits with a tad bit of deathrock and trad goth so this guide may give you those vibes.
This guide is about what I do, to appear more masculine even though I wear makeup and such.
Disclaimer: Goth is genderbending and has never followed rules! These are just things I picked up over the years which make me feel a lot more masculine. You don’t have to follow these tips to present masc, again, do what you love and have fun, that’s the most important thing! You are valid, no matter how you present!
The most general thing I’ve discovered is, that masc presenting people mostly put a lot less „effort“ into their style, they're less polished and dressy. They may put on fancy outfits, makeup and accessories but a lot less than femme presenting people. So my usual guide is
That doesn’t mean you can’t go all out and be creative! There’s just some little things that can make a huge difference!
Relaxed fitting Skinny Jeans look wonderful! Make sure the pants sit a bit loose and straight around the hips, buy in the men’s section!
Mid rise pants in general
Straight fit looks good, especially if you're small, boot cut can look masculine too, if the rest of the outfit works with it, make sure, pants are not too wide and flowy
You can wear skirts if comfortable! Male goths love a good skirt! If you struggle, maybe start with a kilt, a lot of men wear kilts in the scene
Tank tops are your best friend. Cut the sleeves off a shirt and put holes in it, paint it if you want to
(If you have a bigger chest like me, don’t be afraid of it. I understand, we usually want to hide that part, yes. But sometimes, a tight fit can look way better than a loose shirt. I own some tight fitting tank tops and they look very sporty and androgynous on me! I love the look, even though I was a bit uncomfortable at first)
Dressy leather coats, make firm shoulders and give a mask silhouette! Bonus point if they reach your mid thigh, hides the curves yknow
Blazers! So many blazers! Decorate them, cut them whatever! They make you look very manly! (Make sure to buy in the men's section for extra boxy shoulders, the women's ones usually have a curved waistline, that can look femme)
A simple black dress shirt buttoned or unbuttoned always looks good
If you like to wear baggy shirts and have a big chest, think about buying a „minimizer bra“ these things push the chest tissue a bit outwards and abolish the hated „monoboob“
Long sleeves with cuts on the shoulders/ arms look cool! The holes can enhance wide shoulder if placed correctly
Vests (I prefer to leave them open)
A chunky belt with chains/ hooks/ studs worn low on the hips (hides the curves)
Harnesses that wrap around your chest and shoulders rather than your waist. Look for harnesses that have wide leather strips not dainty ones. They need to look chunky!
Chokers yes! But maybe tend to minimalistic ones. I have a super worn down spiked collar, works magic
A peaked hat! I feel like it makes me look a lot more masc and it looks epic, like a mortician
Maybe no dangly earrings just minimalistic ones
Platforms for extra height
Boots that reach you mid calf work best, don't wear too high boots
Too much accessories on the boots are not typically masc, maybe stick to minimalistic combat boots (think of those viral demonia boots. They slay! But I feel like they are pretty femme)
Of course you can go crazy with make up! The scene has always been super into makeup, no one cares if you are male, female or whatever. Though, there are some things I have picked up over the years that make a difference between masc and femme presenting people.
Tips for a masc make up look:
Smudged Eyeliner is you best friend. You can wear it everyday. I have some with glitter in it and it looks super cool
Keep your eyebrows natural, if they are very light, just but brown-ish mascara on them. (Obv you don’t have to if you prefer a defined brow! In my experience I feel like masc people tend to leave their brows as they are and focus on the eyes)
Black lipstick is a look. Yes, it feels very feminine but I see so many men with black lipstick, it’s totally normal in the scene
Instead of a clean white base, try a light shade of makeup or just leave your skin as it is! No pale base is needed, goth comes in all skin colors!
Contour according to masc contour tutorials
Eyeshadow is cool, maybe try to put some below you eyes aswell, get creative rather than following what is modern
Generally don’t be too perfectionistic. Clean make up looks kinda dressy. Smudging always allowed!
First and foremost, do what you like. It doesn’t matter if your hair is short or long.
I have straight hair so I can only give a real opinion on that. I’m sure you can adapt a lot of these tips for curly hair too!
Just leave it be, don’t style it too much let it flow!
A half ponytail or bun is pretty masc, think of Gerald of Rivia, this works with most hairtypes, also with locks or braids!
Don’t be afraid of your forehead! Men have typically bigger foreheads so don’t hide yours!
Deathhawk and big hair always works! No matter what hair texture you have
Prefer a bun over a regular ponytail
Color doesn’t really matter, do what you like
Slicked back looks super hot
Avoid too much „face framing“ with strands (this doesn't count if you're an elf)
Gel is your friend! A strict hairstyle is very common, especially in military goth fashion
If messy, super messy! Same as with make up, don’t be too perfectionistic
Honestly, that style is so crazy, I feel like at that point, there’s no real „line“ between masc or femme, if there ever was one. Masc cybergoths go just as crazy with everything, so i think it doesn’t really matter what you do. Here are some tips anyway:
Cyberfalls can be worn by anyone! Masc Cybergoths usually wear one giant cyberfall on the top of their head. There’s also complete cybermall wigs! Just do as you feel comfortable!
Tripp Pants or extremely wide cargo pants are a go to masc cybergoth looks
If skirt, then very long skirt
Armour inspired accessories
I feel like masc cybergoths dance a bit more heavy handed. Not too much hip movement, focus on arms and shoulder more. Go heavy, get into it!
From whom did I get this?
Some fellas that have inspired me!
Gerard Way (My Chemical Romance)
Frank Iero (My Chemical Romance)
Peter Spilles (Project Pitchfork)
Julian Larre (Lacrimas Profundere)
Matt Bellamy (Muse) in the early 2000s
Movie and Series Characters (also Games)
Crowley (Good Omens, played by David Tennant)
Peter Vincent (Fright Night, played by David Tennant)
Lucian (Underworld, played by Michael Sheen)
Klaus Hargreeves (Umbrella Academy, played by Robert Sheehan)
Gerald of Rivia (The Witcher played by Henry Cavill)
If you wanna see the scene yourself (if you haven’t already) go to goth festivals and clubs! Even medieval markets work. I am from Germany, the scene is quite big here!
Also, you don’t need to stick to these looks everyday! Sometimes I go out, hyperfeminine and all! It does feel more like a drag look for me, but I like how it looks so I wear it anyway. I feel the most authentic when I follow the tips I stated above.
Thank you for you attention! Feel free to add your tips if you have some!
Please remember, do what you love! In the end, you need to be comfortable! Don’t put yourself into any stereotypes or uncomfortable roles. Be creative, be yourself! Try new things, don’t force anything! You’re valid, no matter what <3
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