Taragalte Festival in the Sahara 2016 - Part II
There’s a painted mural in the Southern Moroccan town of M’Hamid El Ghizlane of a caravan of camels, and at the top is written “Tombouctou 50 Jours” (Timbuktu 50 days). Although the last of the traditional trans–Saharan trading caravans left M’Hamid for Timbuktu in the 1930′s, M’Hamid’s long history as the meeting point for nomads setting off across the desert continues to resonate, not least through the Taragalte Festival, which the Sbai brothers Ibrahim and Halim created in 2009. The festival celebrates the rich nomadic heritage of the region, and reinvigorates a strong sense of community based on cultural exchange and diversity. At its heart is also a commitment to protect the fragile natural environment and raise awareness of the threat of desertification in the region.
This year the Taragalte Festival welcomed musicians from the Zagora region, across Morocco, Mali (including a strong presence of artists from the Timbuktu area), Algeria, Mauritania and France. The festival’s temporary stage has a magical setting, which is both intimate and majestic, nestled in the undulating dunes beneath a vast, star-filled sky.
TINARIWEN (NORTHERN MALI)
There was great excitement around the presence of Tinariwen, the renowned Touareg collective from Northern Mali, who performed at the very first edition of the Taragalte Festival in 2009. Earlier this year Tinariwen recorded their new album, Elwan, in a make-shift studio in the desert, just a few kilometres from the festival site. The album is due to be released in February 2017, and this much anticipated performance under the stars was a prelude to their international tour and the album release. They didn’t disappoint.
By the time the six musicians make their entrance on stage in dazzling gold and white flowing robes it’s 1 o’clock in the morning. Abdallah Ag Alhousseyni acknowledges the cheering crowd.
Gritty, bluesy guitar riffs intertwined with gravelly vocals, infectious rhythms on the djembe and a solid bass line soon have the audience swaying, clapping and dancing.
Alhassane Ag Touhami in his magnificent gold robe, dances with jerky, yet elegant movements, his head and arms bobbing like a puppet on a string. His eyes twinkle below his dark bronze cheche.
There’s also an inherent longing and a restless quality in Tinariwen’s music. Ibrahim Ag Alhabib (Abdallah), the founder of Tinariwen, exudes a quiet, melancholic intensity. He paces the stage with his gold electric guitar, the lights catching his mane of grey curly hair and etched face.
Abdallah Ag Alhousseyni encourages the audience to join in.
At other times his presence is more introspective.
Tinariwen’s set comes to a close around 2.30am, and reluctantly the audience disperses across the floodlit sand.
OUM (MOROCCO)
Earlier that evening Oum, the Moroccan singer and Patron of the Taragalte Festival introduces tracks from her most recent album Zarabi. The album title translates as ‘Carpets’; Oum has drawn her inspiration for this album from the colourful and intricate hand-woven rugs made by the women of M’Hamid, and her music reflects this vibrant craft, with its subtle interweaving of traditional musical styles and more contemporary, jazz inflections.
Brahim Laghfiri from Génération Taragalte in the audience, before Oum comes on stage
Oum makes an entrance in a striking red dress, adorned with heavy jewellery
On stage with Oum - Yacir Rami (oud) and Damian Nueva (bass)
The tracks on Oum’s latest album draw on many different musical styles and cultures – from Sufi to jazz, traditional Gnawa trance to Latin-inspired rhythms. The music is multi-layered, polyphonic, at times delicate like lace, at other moments more passionate and hard-hitting. The musical conversations across the stage between Oum and the members of her band are a joy to experience.
Oum with Yacir Rami (oud), Camille Passeri (trumpet) and Natascha Rogers (percussion)
Yacir Rami (oud) with Oum
At times I feel as if I’m looking at a scene from a Spanish Baroque painting.
Yacir Rami (oud) with Camille Passeri (trumpet)
Damian Nueva, bass
Camille Passeri, trumpet
Natascha Rogers, percussion
If you’d like to see pictures of Oum at the 2013 Taragalte Festival, click here.
AZIZ SAHMAOUI (MOROCCO)
The Moroccan singer Aziz Sahmaoui is no stranger to the Taragalte Festival, and there’s an eager crowd waiting for him and his band, University of Gnawa, to come on stage.
Aziz Sahmaoui’s poetry speaks of the beauty of the desert, of nature, of love. His music is lyrical, hypnotic and energetic.
Aziz Sahmaoui on mandole, and Adhil Mirghani on percussion
Aziz Sahmaoui on ngoni, and Adhil Mirghani on percussion
The atmosphere is electric as Aziz encourages the audience from the stage.
Aziz Sahmaoui with Hilaire Penda on bass
Aziz Sahmaoui and Amen Viana (electric guitar)
Hilaire Penda, bass
Amen Viana, electric guitar
Amen Viana, Aziz Sahmaoui, Adhil Mirghani
Ibraham Sbai, Artistic Director of the Taragalte Festival, congratulates Aziz Sahmaoui as he comes off stage
IMARHAN N’TINEZRAF (ALGERIA)
Imarhan N’Tinezraf from Algeria take the first night of the festival by storm. Their music draws very much on Touareg traditions, with the immediately recognisable electric guitar riffs and a steady, hypnotic beat, but it’s infused with more contemporary elements of jazz, rock and blues, and the energy of Algerian Rai music.
Hicham Bouhasse (calabash)
Frontman Iyad Moussa Ben Abderahmane, aka Sadam
Hicham Bouhasse (calabash), with Abdelkader Ourzig (guitar)
Iyad Moussa Ben Abderahmane, aka Sadam
Hicham Bouhasse
Hicham Bouhasse
Haiballah Akhamouk (calabash)
About halfway through Imarhan N’Tinezraf’s set, the festival’s guest of honour, the U.S. Ambassador to Morocco, arrives with Halim Sbai. With the earlier formalities of the day over, the Ambassador and his colleagues appear relaxed as they make themselves comfortable on the carpet that’s just been hastily laid out on the sand.
U.S. Ambassador Bush with Halim Sbai watching Imarhan N’Tinezraf on stage
Members of the audience dancing to Imarhan N’Tinezraf
Waiting for the next act...
LA CARAVANE CULTURELLE POUR LA PAIX
For several years now the Taragalte Festival has been working in collaboration with two Malian music festivals - the Festival in the Desert (formerly in Timbuktu and currently in exile), and the Festival on the Niger in Ségou. Together they created La Caravane Culturelle Pour la Paix (Cultural Caravan for Peace) - a Trans-Saharan / Sahel project bringing together musicians from different regions and ethnic backgrounds to promote a message of peace and cultural diversity.
Samba Touré waiting backstage
Cheick Siriman Sissoko, backstage
Mariam Koné performing with the Cultural Caravan for Peace
Ben Zabo performing with the Cultural Caravan for Peace
There’s more about Ben Zabo at the last edition of the Taragalte Festival here.
Samba Touré and Mariam Koné, Cultural Caravan for Peace
Ahmed Ag Kaedy, Cultural Caravan for Peace
Cheick Siriman Sissoko, Cultural Caravan for Peace
Fadimata Walet Oumar, aka Disco, performing with the Cultural Caravan for Peace
Binabina Samaké, Cultural Caravan for Peace
Members of the audience enjoying the music from the dunes at the side of the stage - including the band Daraa Tribes (seen here seated on the right)
Hawa Maïga
Hawa Maïga
Hawa Maïga
An effervescent set from the musicians of the Cultural Caravan for Peace, and an enthusiastic response from the crowd
DARAA TRIBES (MOROCCO)
The young musicians in the band Daraa Tribes come from different ethnic groups in the Daraa Valley region of South Morocco.
They are joined on stage for this performance by percussionist Natascha Rogers, who played the previous night with Oum.
Natascha Rogers, percussion
Balkier Razgui, lead vocalist and drums, with Natascha Rogers on percussion
Rachid Berazougui, guitar
Balkier Razgui, lead vocalist and drums
Guest artist with Daraa Tribes, playing the traditional krakebs
Natascha Rogers (percussion), Abdelkbir Saadi (bass)
GENERATION TARAGALTE (M’HAMID, MOROCCO)
Génération Taragalte is a young band that has grown up with the festival, and has a loyal following. These musicians all come from M’Hamid, and they take much of their inspiration from Tinariwen.
Génération Taragalte
Mohamed Lagrissi, djembe
Brahim Laghfiri, vocals and guitar
Moustapha Jardouj, bass
Saïd Jardouj, guitar
Génération Taragalte acknowledging their fans
Here’s a link to a post about Génération Taragalte at the 2015 festival.
IMARHAN TIMBUKTU (NORTHERN MALI)
Imarhan Timbuktu, led by Mohamed Issa Ag Oumar, brings together renowned musicians from the Timbuktu region of Northern Mali.
Imarhan Timbuktu and guests
Mohamed Issa Ag Oumar and Fadimata Walet Oumar, aka Disco
Abdallah Ag Alhousseyni from Tinariwen joins Mohamed Issa Ag Oumar on stage
Abdallah Ag Alhousseyni from Tinariwen on stage with Imarhan Timbuktu
Samba Touré and a young Touareg dancer join Imarhan Timbuktu on stage
An enthusiastic dancer from the audience surprises everyone by managing briefly to evade security and get on stage. His passion for the music and his need to express himself shines through.
Imarhan Timbuktu and guests
KHAIRA ARBY (TIMBUKTU, MALI)
Khaira Arby from Northern Mali is the acknowledged ‘Queen of the Desert Blues’, and her performance certainly leaves the audience in no doubt of this.
Her huge voice commands authority, and between songs she speaks out powerfully in support of womens’ rights.
She has a fabulous band of musicians on stage with her and there’s an infectious rapport between them.
Above all, it’s clear they’re having a great time.
And the crowd responds accordingly.
GROUPE HASSANI (MAURITANIA)
Groupe Hassani from Mauritania also know how to enjoy themselves on stage. Quite how they manage to perform such athletic dance moves without kicking a mic stand, or tripping over the monitors, I have no idea.
Groupe Hassani from Mauritania
Young women in the audience join in the dancing
A moment of stillness on stage after the flamboyant dancing
AWEK (FRANCE)
From traditional Mauritanian music we move to the American blues, with French band Awek.
Stéphane Bertolino, harmonica; Bernard Sellam, vocals and guitar
Bernard Sellam, vocals and guitar with Joël Ferron, bass
Stéphane Bertolino, harmonica
Awek: Stéphane Bertolini (harmonica), Bernard Sellam (vocals and guitar), Olivier Trebel (drums), Joël Ferron (bass)
Stéphane Bertolino, harmonica
Bernard Sellam, vocals and guitar
GROUPE AMAZIGH AMADIAZ BAND (MOROCCO)
From the brief conversation I have backstage with members of the Berber Groupe Amazigh Amadiaz Band, I learn that this is mostly a band of brothers, and that they fit their touring schedule around their full-time jobs as school teachers.
Banjo-playing Groupe Amazigh Amadiaz Band waiting to go on stage
The audience watching Groupe Amazigh Amadiaz Band
There’s something so exhilarating and seductive about listening to all these artists in the Moroccan Sahara. Maybe it’s the way the sound carries across the dunes, or the sweetness of the cool night air. It’s also the powerful and deep-rooted sense of community embedded in this historic oasis. M’Hamid has welcomed nomadic merchants from across the Sahel for hundreds of years, warmly embracing many different cultures, ethnicities and languages. The trade was not just economic, however; stories, poetry, music and traditions were also shared between the families who gathered here, or were travelling through. A generous spirit of cultural exchange, peace and diversity is in the DNA of this desert location, making the Taragalte Festival an unforgettable experience.
There’s more about the festival in my previous post, which you can read here.

















