Brainstorm to Build

Now we need some vikings.  

I was at the craft store buying loads of fur and natural colored fabrics and the cutting counter lady asked me about my project.

“Oh, so what are you making?” 

“Well, I have a crew of vikings to outfit.”

“Oh, cool!  For a halloween thing?”

“Nope, we built 10 x 8ft cardboard boat and we’re running it down the rapids of the US National Whitewater Center.  So we need viking outfits that can be worn with lifejackets and helmets.”

“Why?”

3D printing really opens up what you can add to a traditional shaft collar.  I added a mounting platform for sensors.  Instead of threading, I used a heat set brass insert for the set screw.  

This was designed for the MakeBlocks motor, though any 25mm motor or shaft would work.  The mounting holes are 1/4-20 clearance holes, 2″ center-center.

The two part design is made to print easily and without supports.  The interior is slightly undersized but there’s a gap, so the part will tighten and grip the motor when it is mounted to base part.  

Here’s the CAD: http://bit.ly/25mmMotorMountCAD

Here are the Thingiverse files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2438374

For google doc version with materials and cut list tables:

http://bit.ly/conveyorkitdocs

The link above contains drafts of the next sections.

CAD Models: http://bit.ly/conveyorkitCAD

Building the Base

For all of the materials, it’s usually cheaper to buy the longest length you can carry and either have them cut it down or cut it yourself.  If you’re in a hurry or just like convenience, I’ve listed the lengths that require the least cuts for the build.  

Basic components:

24″ x 48″ Pegboard, qty 1

1 X 2, 48″ long, qty 2

1 X 2, 72″ long, qty 1

1″ Drywall screws or similar, qty 22

Tools:

Power drill and bits (there was a bit in the box of screws I bought)

Metal file

Clamps

Measuring Tape

Mallet

Pencil, Straightedge, and Square

Saw of some sort for cutting 1 x 2s

I don’t have a workbench big enough for this project (yet) so I just worked on a pile of old pallets so I’d be off the ground.  

Buying the pre-cut 48” pegboard and 1 X 2s was nice because it reduced the amount of cutting I’d need to get base frame figured out.

I lined up the edges of the 1 x 2s and the pegboard, then drilled pilots and installed drywall screws to fasten the board to the 1 x 2s.  

I used clamps to hold parts in alignment while I flipped the board over, since I wanted the screw heads to go through the existing holes in the pegboard.  Pilots were especially important near the ends of the 1 x 2s, as I didn’t want them to split. I spaced 5 screws along the long edges.

1” drywall screws were a little too long so I filed the points to be flush with the surface so I wouldn’t scratch my hands later.

I measured and installed cross-pieces (~21″).  I wanted these to be a little snug, and knocked them into place with a mallet before installing to the pegboard.  I used 4 screws on each of the short sides.  Since the middle piece was snug I was able to align it and then flip it over to fasten it without clamping it.

Clamping the ends.  I then flipped them over and fastened them.

For the holidays, I asked for a day working on projects in the shop with my dad.  I expected to be fixing toilets, digging up the invisible fence, or doing an oil change on the car.  But he went really above and beyond and had ordered the parts to make a cocktail table style MAME cabinet.

It was a great project.  I got to practice my woodworking skills, showed Dad a few tricks with the Raspberry Pi, and my sister helped out in the shop and learned some retro games so we could test.  

I’m going to do a full document on the build (I’ve got over 200 photos) including the modifications to the build plans and lessons learned.  But for now, here are some highlight photos. 

Dilemma of the Day:

Design the parts to work with my printer (which is printing out of spec)

Design the parts to work nicely *in theory*

I know the right answer is fix the printer and then build the good parts but I’m going to bake a cake and procrastinate first.

Today’s Making Music:

1 -  It’s really hard to video yourself while yo-yo-ing

2 - I’m really not great at yo-yo (but haven’t broken anything yet)

Couldn’t find a chain or a piece of string, but I feel like Holtzmann would approve of the use of banana plug/clip from my power supply.  

Anyways, made a Holtzmann-inspired pendant and now it’s on Thingiverse!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1687218

There are two versions - one looks awesome, but is probably too detailed for most desktop FDM printers.  The second (the one I’m wearing) is flat backed, removes screw threads, and prints really well.  

Want to change the CAD?  It’s all free and public on Onshape!

I’m reorganizing my model files and found this little guy!  

It’s the Danbury Hackerspace Top Hat with Goggles.  Does it have a name?Probably not. 

Threw it on Thingiverse.  For any project that needs a fancy hat...

I milled the Gale Crater into a little wooden cube, because who doesn’t need tiny Mars topography reference materials.  Or maybe it’s art?  Anyways...

Map from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29841

Workflow - 

grab STL file

slice and generate GCode in Kiri:Moto

edit GCode in Atom or Notepad or whatever (add M03 SXXXX with your spindle speed in the X portion) before the first movement command

Just spend an hour and a half doing collaborative CAD with my sister... 

and this is what we came up with.

Writing an app for work and the project manager loves it and I hear him on his phone all day telling people about it because apparently his mind is blown.