Lance Lee | Beijing, China

What is the secret to Sargent’s greatness?

John Singer Sargent would do a lot of sketchesof a subject, either in pencil or watercolors, before he started an oil painting. These sketches helped him learn about the subject matter and served as a tool to practice his wrist movements for later brush strokes.

He encouraged his students to paint ″a hundred studies″ on the same subject matter and have canvases of various sizes ready to use at any time when inspiration struck.

He would say, ″You can’t do sketches enough. Sketch everything and keep everything and keep your curiosity fresh.″

Sargent almost always drew from lifeand rarely used photographs.

He would place his easel right next to the model and walk back and forth between the easel and a set point that was far enough away to simultaneously see both the painting and the model in totality. In doing so, he was able to see the canvas and the model in the same light, at the same angle of vision, and at the same distance.

He taught his students that first, it was important to accurately draw the masses of the paintingin the right place -- before putting in any fine features or details.

Sargent would say, ″If you work on a head for a week without indicating the features, you will have learned something about the modeling of the head.″

By that statement, he meant that an artist should work to get the basic structure right -- before focusing on the details. Draw and paint like a sculptor. Always look for big masses, angles and prominent planes.

When it comes to painting, Sargent would use a lot of thickpaint with a large paint brush.

LONGCHAMP vs Louis Vuitton

Similiar " What You Looking At? " moments for both Longchamp's and LV's 2012 S/S campaign images. In both series, models have similiar hair, makeup and poses.

Bally  vs  Moschino

Touristy theme!

Herve Leger    vs   Max Studio

Published in The Straits Times on 16 Jan 2012

Every red carpet has its head-turners - dresses that captivate, spark style trends and celebrate turning points in a star's career. Much the same can be expected when the Golden Globes unfurls its crimson runner in Los Angeles on Sunday night (16 Jan 2012).

In the past seasons, the looks on parade at this annual glam fest helped cement reputations and jump-start careers.

When Reese Withersppon stepped out in 2007 after her break-up with Ryan Phillippe, her tight yellow Nina Ricci dress lent her an unaccustomed oomph. She was sexier than ever, it seemed.

Two years ago, Maggie Gyllenhaal injected spirit into her modest indie profile with a peach-ton mermaid silhouette by Roland Mouret. The following year, at the Oscars, Katherine Heigl's form-fitting scarlet gown transformed her from a daffy approachable girl-next-door into a pneumatically contoured diva.

"That dress was a game-changer," said Nicole Chavez, who coaxed Heigl into her one-shoulder sizzler.

Such moments can be transformative, said Chavez, a stylist who has worked with Catherine Zeta-Jones and Scarlett Johansson. " People - casting agents, studio executives - stop and take notice," she said. "They are suddenly interested in working with you."

Published in Straits Times ( www.straitstimes.com ) on 30 Dec, 2011.

THE GOLDEN TWENTIES

Luxury, style and unbridled decadence defined the glamorous 1920s. So, with the uncertain state of the global economy, it is no wonder that designers are recreating the deliriously upbeat vibe of the Jazz Age.

Shiny metallic, drop-waist dresses, topped with fun details like tassels, beading and fringing ruled the spring/summer 2012 runways. They were reminiscent of party frocks the ladies of the decade wore which allowed them to literally kick up their heels and do the Charleston.

Ralph Lauren presented a delicate and romantic collection which featured white menswear-inspired suits, drop-waisted dresses in luxe liquid-like fabrics as well as art-deco beadings.

Marc Jacobs opted for a dance hall-themed collection featuring sequinned and beaded dresses and skirts that fell just below the knees.

At Etro, models in art deco-themed flapper dresses walked the runway, while Gucci added a rock twist by showing studded black-and-gold flapper dresses in layers of sequins and fringed tiers of metal chains.

With Baz Luhrmann?s movie adaptation of The Great Gatsby, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan, slated for release next year, the 1920s are definitely roaring back in vogue.

LEND ME YOUR EARS

While statement necklaces and chunky bangles have ruled the runways for many seasons, next year will see accessories focused on the ears instead. And what a focus.

Call them chandeliers, shoulder-dusters, door-knockers or whatever you want, but oversized earrings will be the key look for spring/summer 2012.

Marni had them colourful and psychedelic, while Dolce & Gabbana gave a quirky twist by sending them out in the shape of fruits and vegetables.

At Chanel, the look was ornate and bold. Other labels which showed large earrings included Emilio Pucci, Prada and Oscar de la Renta.

The eyes may have it, but the ears will certainly be doing all the shouting next season.

IRAL FASHION

In the past year, fashion has gone viral as high-end brands put out more online content - from campaign videos to short films.

One of the biggest hits this year was Lanvin's wacky ad featuring models Karen Elson ( left) and Raquel Zimmermann (right) dancing to I Know You Want Me (Calle Ocho) by Pitbull. More than 100,000 YouTube viewers watched it in the first three days and a dozen copycat videos soon popped up on Youtube.

When Louis Vuitton launched its latest City Guides last month, it produced several Lonely Planet-esque short films. These included guides on how to be the perfect gentleman in London and the best dim sum places to visit in Hong Kong.

Dior also released a kooky video showcasing its make-up, which borrowed elements from retro video games like Tetris, Pacman and Super Mario Bros.

Meanwhile, New York designer Prabal Gurung roped in rapper Rye Rye to create an infectious music video inspired by his Resort 2012 collection.

The online trend is set to grow even bigger next year. Karl Lagerfeld, who directed the Chanel short film The Tale Of A Fairy, which went online in May, released another short video last week as a prequel to the fashion house's recent annual Metiers D'Arts fashion show.

Get ready to be entertained in style next year.

CROC ROCKS

Leopard prints may have been everywhere this year but come February, when the spring 2012 collections hit the stores, get ready to show some skin - crocodile skin, that is.

These exotic textured scales will appear in various hues on outerwear, bags and accessories.

Spearheading this trend is Louis Vuitton. For spring/summer 2012, creative director Marc Jacobs showed ladylike looks in pretty pastel hues topped with lightweight trench coats made from crocodile skin.

The French label also sent out models toting croc bags, ensuring that next season's It Bags will be ultra-luxurious and ultra-expensive.

American label Proenza Schouler opted for a faux croc skin effect with its black printed bustier paired with a bright blue pencil skirt. Meanwhile, Paris-based Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato took a more tongue-in-cheek approach by featuring crocodile motifs on her colourful skirts.

Rapper Kanye West, making his debut at Paris Fashion Week, presented a luxe take on hip-hop streetwear that also included a hooded jacket trimmed with crocodile skin.

At Italian label Tod's, powdered crocodile skin was a key detail on its shoes and bags while Gucci and Bottega Veneta both included bags made from the reptile skin.

With so many designers doing the crocodile rock, it's no wonder that luxury fashion conglomerate LVMH, which owns luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Celine, decided to acquire Singapore's Heng Long International Limited tannery in October.

It's time to start saving now because staying on trend will cost you more than a pretty penny next season.

UGLY-PRETTY HAIR

Ultra-girly straight, heavy bangs and boyish pixie cuts were the most popular hairstyles in the last two years. Next year, embrace 'dos that are less about a pretty face and more about a quirky personality.

First up is actress Rooney Mara's mid-forehead length bangs (right). She chopped off her locks for her starring role in the movie Girl With The Dragon Tattoo and has since been sporting a fringe that ends about 2cm above her eyebrows.

The style could look almost awkward, but the actress shows how it can bed off in real life with loads of attitude and statement make-up, such as a bold lip colour or dramatically lined eyes.

These shorter bangs are easier to manage as they will not fall over the eyes and can be slicked back with mousse for an instant change in appearance.

For his spring/summer 2012 collection, fashion darling Alexander Wang had his models sporting wet-looking locks that made them look as if they had walked out of a gym's shower.

The designer popularised the now-ubiquitous side braid two years ago, so it would not be a surprise if this look takes off too. Plus, this carefree hairdo is a great complement to the sporty look that continues to be big next year.

Of course, you can't just walk out of your home with dripping wet hair as your clothes would be ruined.

Instead, to get the look, scrunch mousse through towel-dried hair and blast it with a hair dryer, as Redken hair stylist Guido Palau did for Wang's show.

Then, run hair oil, such as argan oil, through the strands to give them a wet-look shine.

NAIL IT YOURSELF

Fancy nails took off this year, with patterned Minx overlays and gel nail art all the rage.

The latest nail phenomenon in the United States and Britain is magnetic nail polish, which contains actual metallic bits.

Hover the magnet embedded in the bottle cap over the nail polish after it is applied to create a swirly pattern.

Sephora stores in the United States are selling a range of magnetic nail polishes by London brand Nails Inc, but they are currently not available here.

Watsons, however, says it has plans to introduce magnetic nail polishes next year.

ORANGE CRUSH

Pantone's colour of the year for 2012 is tangerine tango, a vibrant shade of orange-red.

While this bold hue may be a tad overwhelming for those with a more conservative fashion sense, it looks set to be a hit in the beauty world.

Most of the major make-up brands will be launching products in this colour family for their spring 2012 collections. After all, this striking shade is a great way to add a pop of colour to the lips, nails and cheeks.

As make-up artist Bobbi Brown says in her latest press release: 'The most modern way to wear a bright colour is as an accent on an otherwise neutral face.'

Plus, make-up artists say orange-toned colours are great for Asian skin as the warm hues work well on those with yellow-toned skin.

Get a head start on this trend with the following launches next month.

Check out Bobbi Brown's Neons & Nudes collection which features a lipstick in Atomic Orange ($33, above) and a shiny orange lipgloss in Citrus ($35).

Shu Uemura has a Creamy Dome Cheek blusher in Sunlight Peach ($39) that adds an healthy orange-pink flush to cheeks.

Then: This was the anti-fashion decade where the loud glamour of the 1980s was rejected in favour of simple, understated clothes.

Icon: British model Kate Moss

Now: Fuss-free and more restrained, the sleek minimalist look takes on a slimmer silhouette with narrow trousers, cream silk buttoned-up blouses and neat skirts. Pleated maxi skirts are paired with tailored jackets and there are no loud brand logos on bags.

Then: Loud prints, shiny fabrics and over-accessorizing were the key features of the decade.

Icon: American pop star Cyndi Lauper

Now: Instead of emphasizing gaudy print, designers are using loud colors and patterns as accents on dresses and tops.

Then: Flared pants, lurex fabrics and gold accessories defined the disco-glam era of the 1970s.

Icon: Singer-songwriter Donna Summer

Now: Streamlined in the sihouette yet vintage in its overall appeal, the long and wide dresses as well as masculine suit trousers this season evoke a mature, powerful and seductive woman.

Then: Heavily influenced by London's fashionable Carnaby Street, mini-skirts, mod A-line dresses and sleeves shift dresses defined the era. The Mondrian print, which was introduced by Yves Saint Laurent, was also a popular dress design of the era.

Icon: British supermodel Twiggy

Now: Designers have referenced pop-art colours such as saffron, pink and burnt orange in coats and dresses, while pleated hipster skirts simulate the drop-waist silhouette.

Then: Christian Dior's New Look, which was launched in 1947, revolutionized this decade's fashion with its full skirt, large bust and small waist sihouette. However, the era was also about below-the-knee pencil skirts and fitted jackets which produced a more tailored feminine silhouette.

Then: High-waisted wide-legged pants, loose culottes and suits became favourites as American women entered the workforce while the men went to war.

Icon: German actress Marlene Dietrich

Below, a model photographed in typical 1940s, Marlene Dietrich style.

Now: The masculine look gets a sexier touch with silk wrap blouses and plunging necklines. For a more updated look, switch the wide-legged pants for high-waisted tapered trousers.

Top tip: Balance the menswear-inspired look with a low neckline or a silk pussy-bow blouse.

Then: The Great Depression in the United States signalled an era of conservative dressing. The female shape was emphasized by wide, padded shoulders to counter a narrow waistline and small hips. Skirts fell demurely to end just below the knee.

Icon: American actress Bette Davis

Now: While some designers are keeping to the exaggerated shoulders, others are taking a cinematic approach to their designs, referencing romantic flicks such as It Happened One Night and China Seas.

Boxy jackets thrown casually over the shoulders are paired with sheer pleated maxi shirts.

Top tip: For a casual yet refined look, go for a relaxed silhouette by pairing maxi skirts with loose-fitting silk blouses.

Source: The Straits Times   |   Nov 4 2011

1920s: DAPPER FLAPPER Then: Low-waisted dresses which allowed women to literally kick up their heels to do the Charleston were the fashion of the day.

Icon: Designer Coco Chanel

Now: Design elements from the 1920s, such as ribbons and fringes, have been incorporated as trim for accessories and footwear. The silhouette remains roomy and comfortable, but done in more luxe fabrics such as silk, organza, and chiffon.

Despite being jobless, former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld remains a pivotal figure in the fashion world and still has the power to attract plenty of A-list attention.

The party she gave on 4 October 2011 at the close of a month of international fashion shows was to celebrate, for the last and final time, her appropriately titled book: Irreverent.

Carine Roitfeld drew into her lair, the Russian club Chez Raspoutine, a fashion A-list – from her favoured designer, the brooding Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy (whose dress she wore), through Haider Ackermann, Alber Elbaz of Lavin, Peter Dundas of Pucci, Diane Von Furstenberg, Olivier Theyskens, and even Karl Lagerfeld (who left his won Chanel party to see her).

She also added in supermodels Natalia Vodianova and Karolina Kurkova, photographers Mario Testino and Terry Richardson and executives from the major brands.

And all that when Carine Roitfeld is out of a job – having come to the end of the line with French Vogue after a 10-year stint. Her version is that she chose to go.

And she says that, in retrospect, how she approached her job – as a fashion director as well as editor – was probably not as wise as the role played by Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, who directs, but is not involved with creating the images.

“Why a book – especially for someone like me who hates looking back?” Carine Roitfeld asks herself. “It marks 30 years. The end of a chapter is a good moment – and they have been ‘belles annees’, beautiful years, when I have succeeded in work and with my family,” says the editor.

Among the 350 images on the 368 pages of Irrevent is of a Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent outfit consisting of a fur coat and fur boots worn over a swimsuit on a Los Angeles beach.

It was Roitfeld’s years of styling Mario Testino images for Ford’s Gucci in the 1990s which brought her to the forefront of fashion. The louche glamour with more than a hint of decadence, kicked grunge out of fashion and made history in terms of brand identity and visual daring.

Today, she charts major changes in that period, including the “editorialisation” of advertising imagery and the use of handbags on the runway, starting a decade-long craze for a seasonal “It bag”.

Hi, would anyone who is already a member of thefashionspot.com be able to invite me to register as a member as well?

I will need an invitation code sent by an existing registered member to join, my email address is [email protected] if you could help.

I was a former member of thefashionspot.com but my account ( lance77 ) was deleted due to inactive use. (since moving to China two years ago, it was difficult to access foreign websites due to the great firewall of china)

To any tfs members who might consider helping me but would like to check my credentials first, pls see my website at http://www.lanc3.com

I'm a fashion photographer currently represented by Studio 6 - http://www.studiosix.com.cn

Stylist-Must-Knows

I was doing some online research on various ways to wear scarves, I realize there seems to be at least 37 ways to wear a scarf (differently and creatively, from an academic point of view)

Among the many websites and online guides I'v read, these are the two most definitive ones.

http://texeresilk.com/

http://www.scarves.net/how-to-tie-a-scarf/

I'm considering to pay USD$9 for this online ebook "Ultimate Scarf Tying Guide". Before that, let's if it's possible to learn what i need based purely on free online articles.

My intention's to do a series of fashion test-shoots in the next couple of weeks to put into practice my new knowledge on styling with scarves. If you are in Beijing and wanna get involved in this exercise, drop me an sms at +86 13466643100 :)

More background info about Scarves (source: http://www.greatestlook.com/tyingscarves.html ) Scarves can be worn in a variety of ways: as head coverings, shawls, accent pieces, belts, and even as garments. They are truly versatile and can add flair to a style, or be used as a subtle accent. They can be tied, pinned with a piece of jewelry, or secured with specially designed accents.

The Kelly Scarf

Named after the famous American actress-turned-Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, this method of wearing a square scarf was used to protect the hair-style and still look glamorous while traveling.

(Note: The Kelly can also be performed using the rectangular (or oblong) scarf for those times when you want to add more flair to the look.)

The Crown It forms a fabric crown over the head using a rectangular (oblong) scarf. It is an elegant-looking wrap and is a good choice for bad hair days. A terrific look for outdoor occasions or for anytime you want to create an exotic look and your hair won't cooperate.

***********

Scarves as Garments         Apart from their use as headwear, square scarves (at least 120 cm big) can be extremely versatile and can be used as apparel in other ways. Learning the following techniques can enable you to make the most of your wardrobe by adding an additional measure of versatility.

Wear a scarf as a halter - style blouse.

This is an inventive use for a scarf that is both bold and flattering. Worn this way, the scarf adds an elegant touch to a pant suit, or skirt suit, and can allow you to take your suit from a day at the office to a nice dinner date, with a moment's adjustment.   

The resulting halter/blouse has a shirred look with gathering at the waist, which flatters slim figures, and helps to balance the proportions of pear-shaped figures.

Wear your scarf as a sarong-type skirt. Worn this way, it makes an elegant cover-up at the poolside or the beach. The light-weight fabric of most scarves makes it cool and comfortable, and the draping effect is very flattering to women who are uncomfortable showing their thighs and hips in a bathing suit.

Scarves as Accessories The most prominent use for scarves is as a fashion accessory. A bold, beautiful scarf can add a splash of color to an otherwise severe-looking or plain garment, and can add a touch of softness and femininity to a suit.

The following scarf-tying techniques will allow you to make the most of your scarves, regardless of the look you are trying to achieve:

The Long Tie Scarf Style Needed: Rectangular (Oblong) Scarf (at least 80 cm long)

You can create a soft-looking effect with your scarf reminiscent of a man's necktie. It makes for a beautiful accent to a simple suit, dress or blouse / slacks combination. The technique is simple, but highly effective. The finished look is soft, yet professional. It is suited for wear in virtually any setting.

The Neck Wrap A smart, professional style of scarf-tying that makes for a simple accent to a business-suit, or elegant pant/skirt ensemble. This style looks best with a blouse bearing a high collar.   Scarf Style Needed: Rectangular (Oblong) Scarf (at least 80 cm long)  The finished look is sleek and sophisticated.

The Bandana Wrap A method of scarf wearing that is traditionally done using a bandana (or small scarf). It provides a neat-looking result and looks especially good worn with a blouse and skirt/pants with the blouse collar turned up.   Scarf Style Needed: Square Scarf (120 cm square) This style of tying creates a shawl effect on the shoulders and a tie effect in front. It is casual, but sophisticated, and is perfect for afternoon lunches and daywear in general.

This is a traditional scarf tying style, providing a conservative, yet sophisticated look. The style is excellent for summery skirt / pant suits where the addition of a blouse would be to warm for the climate.   Ascot Wrap Scarf Style Needed: Square Scarf (120 cm square)   This scarf-tying style creates a very soft, feminine-looking accent to a suit, and is equally purposed for concealing décolletage in low-cut, jacketed dresses, and blouses.  

Two Shoulder Wrap An excellent method of scarf-tying for use with sleeveless dresses and low-cut scoop necked dresses and blouses. It can be used to provide a modicum of warmth when transitioning from afternoon to evening at various functions.

Side-Knotted Sometimes you need something to dress-up that simple little dress you're wearing, but you don't want (or don't have) a regular belt that would be appropriate. This is the perfect time to put a scarf to use.

The result is a soft looking belted effect that makes even the simplest dress just a touch more festive.

Traditional Belt There are times when you want to add a little "twist" to the traditional look of a belted slacks/blouse/jacket ensemble. By replacing the usual belt with a scarf in a complimentary color/pattern, you can create a flattering, and chic look.   Scarf Style Needed: Rectangular (oblong) Scarf (120 cm long)     This method can also be used as a belt-style tying of a scarf for simple dresses, and works well when tied in this manner at the hips.

Scarves with Pins:         As we've seen, scarves can be knotted and worn in many different ways. But what about those times when you just want to have a scarf to add a splash of color or a little flair to an outfit? One of the great things about scarves are their versatility, and the way they can be combined with other accessories to change the look and feel of an outfit. Below are a few ideas for doing this:

Over the Shoulder Scarf Pin

The point at which the scarf is pinned should be between the breast and shoulder. Once the scarf is securely placed, the trailing end can be allowed to fan out over the shoulder and down the back.

Shawl Style Scarf

The longer portion of the scarf can be left trailing down the back, or brought over to drape over the crook of the elbow of the opposite arm, if desired.

Cowl Style Scarf

The pin should be placed between the breast and shoulder, but closer to the shoulder.   Drape the remaining length of the scarf loosely around the front of the chest and over the opposite shoulder.

Singapore's presence at Paris Fashion Week tripled

Singapore's presence at the ongoing Paris Fashion Week - regarded as the most prestigious fashion week on the international fashion calendar - has more than tripled this year.

A record number of 11 Singapore brands are taking part, up from just three last year.

Home-grown labels Raoul and alldressedup, and Paris-based Singapore designer Harry Halim had previously taken part, holding private showroom viewings for buyers and media.

This year, they are joined by Alfie Wong of womenswear label Awol, Eugene Lin of his own eponymous labell, Tara Thadani of accessories label Tsura, jewellery designers Marilyn Tan of her own eponymous jewellery line and Yvonne Chia of WoonHung, bags and accessories designer Ling Wu, Nicholas Wong and Daniel Loh of womenswear label Saturday as well as travel-gear brand Earthpacs.

I'm dedicating my first tumblr post to Chen Man, the best fashion and celebrity photographer in China. She photographs most of the magazine covers for China's Vogue, Bazaar, Marie Claire and Elle magazine. To see more of her works, visit her personal website at http://www.chenmaner.com

She owns a photo studio and photographers' agency in Beijing, Studio 6 - http://www.studiosix.com.cn - of which i'm the first foreign photographer it represents.

The two photographs of her you see above are shot by me for Marie Claire (China) magazine, an advertorial for 周生生, a jewellery brand from Hong Kong. It is also the very first assignment that the agency Studio 6 passes me. Hence the sentimental value :)

cheers,

Lance Lee http://www.lanc3.com