JosR's References

with specifically the highlights and colors being hues that compliment each other, don’t distract from the scene, and make it more interesting/visually appealing

cohesive but still contrasting

This kind of talks about color and composition

This is a bit about landscape specifically

Values & composition

Contrast in composition

Balance in colors & values

This one's more for palette building but I think it's useful and can be applied to the other ones

Cohesion within compositions/lighting

"Chromatic fringe" - I also see people using this with shading, they bring in a transition color that is a different hue than the base color or shadow, it makes it so that less vibrancy is lost and it doesn't get muddy!

This one specifically has a lot of process behind the style of painting you're looking for!

Also one of my favorite artists who makes bright and colorful art like this is Not Sorry Art on TikTok & YouTube, her website is here and it's<3 my fav. She has some videos where you can see her process

Do you struggle with drawing trees and plants in a stylized way? You’re not alone! For a long time, I leaned heavily on reference and found it difficult to give them a stylized look similar to my characters. Over time I figured out a few tricks to overcome this. My latest patreon tutorial has tips and advice for how depart from your reference image and give trees & plants a stylized twist. 

Ooh, I love capes!

Making capes

Types of capes:

There are different types of capes. Let's take a look at a few options.

Rectangle cape: the type of cape American superheroes wear. They consist out of a simple rectangle that can be tied or clasped at the neck. Use gathered fabric for extra fullness. This type of cape won't give you a lot of warmth as it will only cover your back.

Quarter circle cape: slightly more flared than a rectangle cape, but will still only cover your back.

Half circle cape: will cover both your back and shoulders and some of your body, which will give you extra warmth. Great for drama!

Fitted half circle cape: similar to a half circle cape, but made out of three separate pieces to fit around your body better. It won't cover you completely, but it will cover your back, shoulders, and more of your body than a normal half circle cape would.

Full circle cape: this cloak will cover your full body and keep you nice and warm.

Savvy sewists will notice these cape types are similar to circle skirts. The idea's basically the same. Instead of making a skirt, you leave your circle open in the front, and cut a hole that fits your neck rather than your waist.

(Image source) [ID: drawing showing five types of coats: rectangle, quarter circle, half circle, half fitted circle, full circle. Text: "Capes and cloaks. www.facebook.com/aliceincosplayland".]

Aside of volume, you can also play around with length. A floor-length cape has a very different effect and function than a cape that reaches your hips, or even a capelet.

(Image source) [ID: a pattern diagram showing four different cape lengths: floor length, hip length, waist length, and a capelet. Text: "6535 Front and back views. Newlook."]

Details like a hood or armholes can make your cape extra comfortable, and you've got a wide range of options when it comes to fasteners, too.

(Image source) [ID: back view of a long gray half circle cape that's been pleated at the shoulders.]

(Image source) [ID: a purple capelet with a hood, frills, cat ears, and lace, tied with a bow at the front. Text: "Gray. Alice and the Pirates."]

(Image source) [ID: a person wearing a brown monogrammed hip-length cape with front pockets and arm slits at the sides.]

(Image source) [ID: a person wearing a long gray hooded cape, standing in a forest and holding a sword.]

Materials:

Before deciding what fabrics to make your cloak or cape out of, ask yourself what you're trying to achieve first.

Warmth, drape, fabric price, comfort, aesthetic, wearing context,... are some examples of things that can influence your decision.

Some examples:

A cosplay cloak has to look good but doesn't necessarily have to be warm. Choose a fabric that's suitable for your character's outfit, but also keep the circumstances in which you plan to wear your outfit in mind. For example, a warm cloak might pose issues if you do a lot of indoor photo shoots, but convention halls can be pretty chilly.

A fashion cloak intended for winter really does need to be warm! Wool, tweed, and velvet are good options.

A cloak intended for historical re-enactment preferably uses period-accurate materials and therefore won't be lined with fabrics like polyester and such. Which fabric to use depends on the period and region you're working in.

Tutorials and patterns:

Here's a few tutorials/patterns to get you started:

Fitted cloak: winterberry cape (Mood)

How to draft your own hooded cape (The Spruce Crafts)

Pleated half circle cape (Gilian Conahan)

Half circle capelet (Buzzfeed)

Long hooded cloak (Fleece Fun)

Full circle capelet (Project Run and Play)

Four ways to make a cape (WikiHow)

Eight types of capes (Sew Guide)

Half circle fashion cape (Indoor Shannon)

21 free cape sewing patterns (Love Sewing)

Hooded cloak with lining (Online Fabric Store)

Conclusion:

Capes and cloaks make for fun sewing projects. They're pretty easy to make: if you know how to draw circles, you know how to draft a cape pattern.

Capes are a versatile garment, and can range from a great last-minute Halloween costume to an every-day winter cloak. Play around with materials, lengths, shapes, design elements, decoration,... to achieve different effects.

Okay, so today I want to talk about anti-aliasing in CSP because it’s kind of a lifesaver? 

But also I have a super hard time remembering how to do it or that it exists so here we go. 

Basically, anti-aliasing helps you color line art without going outside the lines. Here’s a gif of me coloring with my mouse so you can kind of get an idea of what it is we’re talkin’ about here: 

So how do we do that?

 First, select your line-art or sketch layer in the layer panel of CSP. Click on the little lighthouse icon at the top of the panel. When you click off there should be a little lighthouse on the side of your line-art layer! This icon means that is now a reference layer!

Step2:

Go into your brush settings and click Anti-overflow! Click “Do not exceed reference layer” to make it work, tweak the other settings till you’re happy. These are the settings I used in the example below to get a cleaner coloring style

Step 3: 

Add another normal layer below you line art! Make sure it’s selected and color away! Here’s what it looks like with the settings above:

when you put an arrow on the string, the verb is called “nocking” i.e. eyes glued on the target, he nocked the arrow

also the part of the arrow that gets put onto the string is called the nock. depending on the type of arrow this can be a piece of plastic glued into the arrow, or with wood or bamboo arrows it can be carved into the shaft of the arrow itself

you do not close an eye when aiming or shooting; you see better with both eyes open.

everyone has a dominant eye that more naturally your brain focuses with. that determines whether you are right or left handed when shooting, and doesn’t necessarily correlate to whether the person is right or left handed in anything else

so if you’re writing a character who has difficulty seeing out of one eye, take that into account when they are shooting

if they are right eye dominant, they hold the bow with their left hand and draw the string with their right. if they are left eye dominant, they hold the bow with their right hand and draw the string with their left

if they shoot left, the quiver sits on their left side/hip/thigh. shoot right - right side quiver.

there are several different ways to draw, if you are writing something historical or in a specific region, then do research on that style of archery. but for a generic place to start that is a more universal way of drawing a bow, here are some things to include

the chin stays down. raising your chin will fuck up your aim

the pointer finger on your draw hand rests on the side of your chin/jaw, and the string of the bow will touch the tip of the archer’s nose

weight is on the balls of your feet, leaning slightly forward off your heels

if it is an older bow/barebow, there is not usually a place for the arrow to rest on the bow. this means the arrow rests on the archer’s hand. if they are not wearing a glove on that hand, the fletchings (that’s the feathers on the arrow) will more than likely slice their hand when firing. this scars.

so if you’re wanting to describe someone observing and archer’s hands (hands are hot, don’t @ me) they would see a silver scar about halfway between the pointer finger knuckle and palm of the person’s hand. (turn your hand vertical and trace down the length of your pointer toward your thumb and stop next to the knuckle. that spot there.)

most archers wear something to protect their fingers on the hand that draws the bow. even with that, they have callouses. without it, a lot of callouses, scars, and blisters.

most common draw uses three fingers on the string: pointer, middle, ring. the arrow sits between the pointer and middle. just like where the draw point is, this is not universal and do research if you’re doing something culturally important.

barebow means that the bow is bare of any instruments. no sight, no weights, etc. the most basic/traditional form of bow

a recurve bow is anything where the tips of the bow curve back around forward, away from the archer

a compound is what you think of as a modern hunting bow, and is recognisable by having wheels at the ends and three strings

arrows have three fletchings that form a triangle, the point faces the archer so that the flat of the arrow will pass the flat of the bow on release. the arrow sits on the side of the bow facing the archer

archers with a larger/raised chest will sometimes where a chest protect so that the string does not catch when firing (this is regardless of gender, i know several cis-men who need it as well)

string can also catch on the forearm that is holding the bow and creates bruises and welts if you don’t wear a protector. modern ones are small plastic and cover just the spot, with elastic holding it in place. traditional ones are leather and wrap all the way around, lacing up on the back of your arm like a corset.

hey! >this post< got a some attention and i saw a tag asking for the tutorial, so i decided to go through with it. here’s that tutorial!

tutorial below the cut!

because I see this everywhere and most people don’t know about it. The hyphen(-), the en-dash(–) and the em-dash(—) are three completely different things with completely different uses. If you write fanfiction, it’s likely that your readers won’t care, but if you want to submit a manuscript for publishing, you need to know the difference. 

The hyphen (-) is the basic symbol you find on your keyboard, and it’s meant to only be used for hyphenated words (well-being, two-thirds). 

The en-dash (–) is a slightly longer dash. It’s usually the width of an uppercase N, hence the name. You can find it by looking through the ‘insert symbol’ option in MS word or many word processors, and it is meant to be used to show a particular distance, or for intervals (May–August, 1900–1916, pages 12–22)

The em-dash (—) is what people most commonly use, but they refer to it as a hyphen. It’s the longest dash, about the size of an uppercase letter M, and you can either find it through the list of symbols in your word processor, or some word processors actually automatically transform two hyphens (–) into an em-dash  (—). It is meant to be used as a break in the sentence, in a place where a comma, semicolon or colon would normally be used or as a break in dialogue. (Her niece—the daughter of her oldest sister—is the one over there.) 

Well Adobe is retiring flash in 2020 (rip) and this dude BlueMaxima has created a project to save online flash/shock/java/etc games and animation though a launcher software. HERE

There’s literally thousands of games that have been found and saved.

So lets say you’re researching something for a paper (or just for fun) and the research paper you want to read is behind a paywall, or the site makes you create an account first, or makes you pay to download, or limits you to only 5 free articles, or otherwise makes it difficult for you to read what you want.

do not fear! copy the link to the article

go to sci-hub.se         (the url is always changing so its best to check out whereisscihub.now.sh to find what the current url is)

slap the article link in there

You’ll need a building design planning app or program to use this method. Along with simple photo effects.

Step one: design your background with the app or program of your choice. I personally use Planner 5D. Position the picture where you want it and take a screenshot.

Step two: open the screenshot in a photo editor of your choice. I personally use the one that came with my samsung tablet in the gallery app. Choose effects.

In effects, you will find the Magic Pen effect. It will highlight all the outlines needed for a simple manga background.

Step three: Save that picture and then go back into effects. This time choose the Negative effect. It will revert the picture to a lighter tone while coloring in the outlines previously bordered.

Step four:  Save it and go back into effects. This time choose the Cartoon effect. This will thicken and darken those colored lines and shaded areas.

Step five: There will still be some leftover color, so save and go into the tone category this time. Remove all saturation from the picture.

Step seven: Save and crop any unwanted pieces out of the picture. Save once more and you’re done.

Gold Painting Tutorial by CelestialFang

THOU is the subject (Thou art…) THEE is the object (I look at thee) THY is for words beginning in a consonant (Thy dog) THINE is for words beginning in a vowel (Thine eyes)

Further to the PSA:

Thou/thee/thine is SINGULAR ONLY.

Verbs with “thou” end in -st or -est: thou canst, thou hast, thou dost, thou goest.  Exception: the verbs will, shall, are, and were, which add only -t: thou wilt, thou shalt, thou art, thou wert.

Only in the indicative, though – when saying how things are (“Thou hast a big nose”).  Not in the subjunctive, saying how things might be (“If thou go there…”) nor in the imperative, making instructions or requests (“Go thou there”).

The -eth or -th ending on verbs is EXACTLY EQUIVALENT TO THE -(e)s ENDING IN MODERN ENGLISH.

I go, thou goest, she goeth, we go, ye go, they go.

If you wouldn’t say “goes” in modern English, don’t say “goeth” in Shakespearean English.

“Goeth and getteth me a coffee” NO.  KILL IT WITH FIRE.

Usually with an imperative you put the pronoun immediately after the verb, at least once in the sentence (“Go thou” / “Go ye”).

YE is the subject (Ye are…).  YOU is the object.

Ye/you/your is both for PLURALS and for DEFERENCE, as vous in French.

This was written in Modern English.

This was writ in Elizabethan English.

Þis was ywritten in Middelenglisch.