Paddling out into the thick blue horizon, we disconnect from the world. Life is reduced to the simple, whimsical formula of swell, wind, currents and tides. And we float in the cold, salty water, lulled into the resulting pattern of undulating waves. Itâs a blissful, selfish activity. Every wave under our wiggling, ecstatic toes makes life a little bit better. And as we ride the last wave in, returning to setting suns and lifeâs realities- we are rejuvenated. And as we get into our cars, shivering, checking our cell phones for missed calls, turning on the heat, hooking up the ipod, laughing with friends, shedding our neoprene skin- we are reconnected. After harvesting waves- dancing across their generous, rolling faces- we return to the world feeling like love-drunk gatherers. We return to our homes and sip on artisanal beers, happy with our watery conquests.
Airplanes were invented and we hopped on with our boards, wetsuits, and warm-water wax stowed underneath- in search of warmer waters, cleaner waves, and cheaper beer. Now, we fly to Southeast Asia, Africa, Australia, South and Central America, and every perfect point break inbetween. We scour google maps for the perfect line-up, and book our tickets, salivating with anticipation. And as the plane lands in these foreign lands, we briefly see the foreign lands. Shanty towns, skinny children, police corruption, unsafe drinking water, disease. But we hop in our rental car, roll down the windows, turn on the radio, stock up on bottled water, and swallow our malaria medicine, giggling with friends.
And itâs the same blissful, selfish disconnect. The ocean rolls in and our toes curl over perfectly waxed rails, hanging ten, hands up, nirvana. And as we ride the last wave in, the setting sun casts scary shadows over the foreign land. And as we hastily get in our rental car, throwing on our havianas, sipping our bottled water, finding our way back to our 3 star hotel for happy hour margaritas- we traipse past the scary shadows.
With the disconnects surfing affords us we rarely take advantage of the reconnect to reality. And in these foreign lands, after weâve spent a day pillaging waves, we donât see the land-locked monsters lurking in the shadows.
turnnoffyourmind
blakekathryn
izzy806
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