brain's full of kool-aid

Ear + earrings update! luckily I happen to have a nonbinary sibling who loves earrings, they bought entire packs and only wear a few from those packs, so I was given permission to take any of the ones they don’t wear! Now Phestarr is looking as radiant as ever, don’t you agree? 💜 I had to nix my attempt at stretching their earring holes, it just became clear it definitely wasn’t gonna work. it was already bruising my thumbs to try and put anything through there, so I settled to retire my old generic big circle earrings to replace them. I really tried, but it just isn’t meant to be. I used nail polish for the ear painting since its easy to source, easy to correct mistakes and easy to find a variety of colors. Phestarr starselves requested it be vegan, because he cares about all creatures. If you would like to do a project of your own we’ve provided the name and brand in the above photos. (I also talk about how I pierced their ears here.) She only has a few more steps in his customization to go!!! So far the plan is to dye her fur with synthetic dye, also half pink and half blue. I’m keeping the feets white. The last step involves making a much poofier tail. For now, however, star seems pleased.

+ My nails can match my furb :3

My first furb, my first custom.

A constant wip.

furb shopping bag 🌈 the text translates to "THANK YOU" in furbish and the bottom line translates to "big fun yeah"

I started this for two reasons; one, to try and possibly find out why this shelby was broken, and two, to see if i could remove the shelby’s eyes. I only wanted to do this out of curiosity because i knew the eyes had to be separate pieces due to the fact shelby’s eyes move left to right. (Unlike a furby.)

Firstly, i would like to thank @furbytech​ for their tutorial on how to remove a shelby’s shell! My tutorial begins assuming you have removed your shelby’s shell, so first of all follow their tutorial and then come back to this once the shell is removed. Now that’s done you’re ready to begin… After this tool list.

List of required tools:

- Screwdriver

- Really, really small screwdriver (For pushing out pins)

- Tweezers (For taking screws out of hard-to-reach areas)

- Pliers (For pulling out pins)

Throughout this tutorial, screws will be identified by number and plastic parts will be identified by letter. As an extra ‘tool’, I would also recommend having a sheet of paper and a pencil to place the parts and label them as you remove them.

So, to start off remove screw 1. Then, to remove part A I flipped it forwards and gently twisted it until it popped out.

(Please excuse the crudeness, these were quickly edited on my phone.)

Remove these screws. Although i am not quite sure what 2 and 3 hold, screw 5 holds in a small switch component.

Screw 6. This helps hold in a part you will remove soon.

To get to screw 7, pull up the shelby’s ‘tennie’ panel. (Tennies are what shelbys call their antenai.)

(Please excuse those ugly black boxes, they are just so you don’t see my fingers.)

Anyway, with screw 7 removed, you are free to remove part B!

Now, turn your attention to the right of the shelby. (Your right, not shelby’s right.) Proceed to remove screw 8.

Screws 9 and 10 are a tricky pair, you can only just see them in the image. Here’s where you will need a pair of tweezers to remove them once they’ve been unscrewed.

Here i need to point out i was removing screws as i saw them in this tutorial. Now looking back, i need to tell you to remove screw 12, but not screw 11 as you cant yet remove it. It’s still covered by a switch in the tennie plate above.

Moving back over to under the front of the tennie plate, use your really, really small screwdriver and push out part C.

Don’t be alarmed, there isn’t something in that smaller circle you aren’t seeing! This is simply the removal of part D. Carefully pull it up and out of the main CAM.

Now turn your attention to the left side of shelby (again- your left) and observe these plugged wires. This here is a crude diagram of which sockets they belong to, so feel free to now remove them and forget where they go.

Part E almost gave me a run for my money, but with a pair of pliers and a firm grip it will slide out easily!

Now you need to deal with shelby’s underbelly. In this diagram, the pealed-back fur will be pointed towards you. There are 10 screws on the underbelly, all of which need removing. 5 are long and 5 are short. The blue circles indicate where the short screws are, whereas the green circles indicate the long ones. You may notice that one of the green circles is purple on the inside. This is not important, but its interesting to note…

…that the purple screw is the exact one holding the tennie plate in! feel free to now remove it. Also, now that the tennie plate is off, you can finally deal with that pesky screw 11.

Here is screw 13. Remove it.

Hiding just above screw 13 is screw 14.

Now, this is the part where i apparently decided it was time to remove part G. Carefully lift it out, but be warned. Because when you do…

Eek!

(Shelby’s eyes can now move freely.)

Next up, you’re going to deal with some surprisingly strong glue. Now, i don’t know if this is specific to my shelby but i will work assuming it isn’t. Break the glue, then use a screwdriver to lever the part out. You will not notice the circuit board can (mostly) freely move.

Apparently its now time to remove this screw. Again, this is one you will likely need the tweezers for. This screw doesn’t really need to be removed right now, but as i said i was removing screws as i saw them.

Another bit of tough old glue. You can break it with half your tweezers.

Although i don’t have any pictures for it, this is also where you will need to remove the light sensor between shelby’s eyes. Just pry it off carefully and remove any glue. It will still click in if you want to put it back together.

Screw 16 is next! It hold in what i assume is the shelby’s tongue sensor. Once you’ve removed this screw… 

Ta-dah!

(Shelby’s facial portion has been removed)

You’re in the home stretch now. Screws 17 and 18 hold in the main CAM unit.

Once they are out, you will need to carefully unhook the CAM from the beak.

Fantastic!

19 and 20 need to come out.

Then, finally, remove screw 21. Its the last screw.

Part H? Is it really part H? Could we not consider the larger mounds of parts we removed to be parts themselves? Regardless, we will call this part H.

Wonderful!

And so, last but not least, use your pliers to remove part I. Well done! you have deconstructed your shelby. Much to my disappointment, shelby’s eyes can’t be removed. The axle they sit on is wider in the centre than on the parts where it connects to the plastic. Don’t ask me how they got it in!

Finally, i will answer some question you could have. I’m sorry if this isn’t a done thing, I’m completely new to tumblr.

Questions you could possibly have:

- You said your shelby was broken, will this disassembly damage my shelby?

My shelby was broken prior to disassembling it, which made them the candidate for this. It is as likely as it would be with anything that could could damage it while taking it apart. In my recommendation, don’t do this if your shelby is working.

- Exactly what size is a “really really small screwdriver”?

The one i used was 1mm wide, and the part you need to remove with it is 2mm wide rounding up.

Is your furby cold during the winter? Well they won't be anymore with the stylish yet easy beanie!

Cast on 48 rows.

Rib 5 rows using knit 1 purl 1.

15 rows in stocking stitch starting with a knit row.

Cast off.