pho and how to find it, part one
What I know from my chef brother is that kitchen recipes are reaped from the web then evolved into something that reflects both the chef and his customer's tastes. What I know from the Internet is that the chef in a South East Asian home kitchen is a matriarch carrying generations upon generations of knowledge about salt, spice and vegetable seasons, and using that to deliver a nourishing dish for their family. Many a tiktoker have recorded their mothers and grandmothers providing non- specific instructions about the dishes they prepare, and yet the meal turns out delicious every time. Years of service to their families is what they have, and it is what they deliver. It is a labour of love- generations of it, and as such there can never really be an exact recipe for any old chef to follow. In fact, the best chefs go with their hearts and their heads, and their understanding of the produce before them.
This is one of the factors that draws me to Vietnamese cuisine. Partially it's the little bit of love that is delivered with simple and complicated dishes, partially it's the desire to find simple recipes that I could make, that suit my tastes and fussy tummy syndrome, that maybe one day I could carry into a home of my own. Not only that, Australia is rich in Vietnamese cuisine and culture, and while the history of the Vietnamese in Australia is a tragic one, the simple fact of having them here enriches Australia just that little bit more.
Colonially speaking, Vietnam has fought the occupation of the French for decades. And though said occupation introduced a variety of western influences to the Vietnamese cuisine- of which we wouldn't have bahn mis- it does not discount the damage the French had done onto the indigenous culture of Vietnam.
In terms of indigenous Vietnamese cuisine, I discovered in my deep dive into Vietnamese cuisine (wikipedia) that a Vietnamese cook incorporates the rule of fives into each dish. Five spices that address the five tastes (salty, sweet, bitter, sour and spicy) that correlate with the five elements (water, earth, fire, wood & metal respectively) and the five organs (small intestine, urinary bladder, large intestine, gall bladder, urinary bladder). It is all about balance and nutrition.
The meals themselves are generally made up of what is inexpensive and abundant in Vietnam, reflecting the long history of war, conflict and poverty. Every part of the animal or vegetable is used and nothing goes to waste. The vegetables are used and replanted, the livestock are stripped and their bones and blood used for broths and stock. Even though Vietnam is tiny in comparison to Australia, the cuisine differs between North, Central and South Vietnam, reflecting the climates, the environment and the living conditions of the people there. South Vietnam is fed by the Mekong Delta and lush with fresh fruit, veg and tropical fish. Central Vietnam relies on the long coastline, and thus the food is central to their diets. North Vietnam is strongly influenced by Chinese cuisine, and has more of a harsher climate than that of the South.
Of course, all of this to say that the Vietnamese have fought for their right to freedom and fought for their right to share their cuisine with the world. Maybe it is simply just food, maybe it is the history of poverty and violence and the delicious meals, brought all the way from Vietnam to the shop down the road from my house, that have arisen in spite of it all, that makes it all important. It is important to understand, for me, that what I endeavour to try next requires an understanding of how it came to be the way it is. There is history and tragedy in everything, that is what makes it special.











