The Evolver

Over the past two years or so I’ve collected a fair amount of sewing references and tutorials, applicable to both cosplay and regular garment sewing. They’ve helped me out a lot, so I thought other people might benefit from them too!

Basics/General

Sewing vocabulary http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/p/glossary.html

About patterns (reading, altering, drafting) http://chicostume.org/handouts/Pattern_Reading.html

Introduction to patterns http://www.sewmamasew.com/2008/05/patterns-demystified/

About thread tension http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4302/understanding-thread-tension

About interfacing http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/03/interfacing-insights-from-fashion.html

How to gather fabric http://www.thefamilyhomestead.com/gatherfabrictutorial.htm

Preparations

How to pre-shrink wool http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2010/08/tutorial-pre-shrink-woolfast-and-easy.html

Cutting slippery fabrics with tissue paper http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/cutting-slippery-fabrics-with-tissue.html

Comparison of steel and spiral boning http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/articles/free/intermediate/99-experimenting-with-steel-boning-by-jenni-hampshire

Time-saving trick for a boned bodice muslin http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/time-saving-trick-for-boned-bodice.html

Darts

About darts http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/get-smart-with-darts.html

How to French seam a dart http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/04/tricks-of-trade-french-seam-dart.html

Tailoring, Altering, and Fitting

How to fit pants http://www.coletterie.com/sewalongs/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet

About swayback alterations http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html

About tailored jackets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2011/03/anatomy-of-tailored-jacket.html

How to tailor a coat front part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-one.html

Part 2 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-two.html

Part 3 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-three.html

How to remove gaping from the neckline of a fitted dress http://bernieandi.wordpress.com/2012/07/13/pattern-alterations-how-to-remove-gaping-or-excess-fabric-from-neckline-of-a-fitted-dress/

Finishing Seam Allowances

How to finish seam allowances (without Serging) http://www.craftstylish.com/item/41979/try-these-techniques-for-perfectly-beautiful-seams

How to do a Hong Kong seam binding http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/hong-kong-binding-seam-finish

Turned and stitched finished seam allowances (my personal favorite method) http://sewaholic.net/seam-finishes-turned-and-stitched/

French seams http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/03/tricks-of-trade-easy-french-seams.html

 Linings

Easy lining http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4971/a-shortcut-to-great-linings

Lining a sleeveless dress http://stitchywitch.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/tutorial-lining-a-sleeveless-dress/

Sleeves

How to draft a simple band sleeve http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2011/11/drafting-simple-band-sleeve.html

How to sew a tulip sleeve http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2011/04/make-your-own-tulip-sleeve-tutorial.html

How to sew a two piece underarm gusset http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-two-piece-underarm-gusset.html

How to sew kimono sleeve gussets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/02/kimono-sleeve-gussets.html

More on sewing kimono sleeve gussets http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2011/07/06/kimono-sleeve-gussets/

Zippers

How to sew an invisible zipper http://www.clevernesting.com/2009/06/invisible-zipper-tutorial-from-whipstitch/

Invisible zipper tutorial http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-installing-an-invisible-zipper

Another invisible zipper tutorial http://byhandlondon.com/2012/06/21/inserting-an-invisible-zipper-the-definitive-tutorial/

How to do a hand-picked zipper http://sewaholic.net/a-hand-picked-zipper-progress-on-the-picnic-dress/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Sewaholic+%28Sewaholic.net+Newsletter%29

Hems

About hems http://www.sewmamasew.com/2010/06/all-about-hems/

How to mitre a folded hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/03/tricks-of-trade-mitre-folded-hem.html

How to hem an inverted pleat http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-how-to-hem-inverted.html

How to sew a hand-rolled hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-all-couture-y-hand-rolled-hem.html

How to sew an invisible hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-sewing-invisible-hem.html

 Odds and Ends

Circle skirt calculator http://pattythesnugbug.com/2011/circle-skirt-calculator-for-the-drafting-of-full-half-and-34-skirts-with-bonus-grading-worksheet/

Half circle skirts http://makingthings.andreatung.com/2009/07/circle-skirts-part-2.html

How to sew a full, gathered skirt part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/08/sew-full-gathered-skirt-part-one-make.html

Part 2 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/08/make-this-skirt-part-two-of-gathered.html

How to make a half slip http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/07/make-vintage-inspired-half-slip-no.html

How to bind neck and armholes with bias tape http://suchtreasures.com/2008/06/14/applying-bias-tape-at-neckline-and-armhole-curves-as-binding/

Covered button tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/02/covered-button-tutorial.html

Bound buttonhole tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/bound-buttonhole-tutorial.html

Finishing bound buttonholes http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/finishing-your-bound-buttonholes.html

How to make belts http://blog.caseybrowndesigns.com/2011/03/beltmaking-101/

How to do ruffles http://www.rufflesandstuff.com/2009/08/ruffles.html

How to do a convertible collar http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/tricks-of-trade-convertible-collars.html

Shaping a shirt collar http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/03/shaping-shirt-collar.html

Lace/eyelet collar tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/07/sewing-lace-or-eyelet-collar.html

Cutting checks and plaids, part 1 http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/cutting-checks-and-plaids-part-1.html

Part 2 http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/cutting-checks-or-plaids-part-2.html

How to sew checks/plaids to match perfectly http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/sewing-checks-magic-pat-trick.html

How to attach bias tape with mitered corners http://sewtospeak.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-attach-bias-tape-with-mitered.html

How to use Swarovski crystals http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=2219

How to sew a 50s petticoat http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=850

Horsehair braid tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/06/magic-of-horsehair-braid-little.html

How to sew with velvet http://www.fashion-era.com/velvets/velvet_sewing_tips.htm

How to make felt roses http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/03/easy-felt-roses-tutorial-with-video.html

How to do a foundation for a fascinator hat http://hatstruck.blogspot.com/2010/02/fundations-for-my-cocktailfacinator.html

July 28th, Day 6: XXX - A Kiss; A Shot; A yearning Heart

Even the most rotten heart is beating for someone. Today’s meant for Dark Love.

I found in his tags on pixiv and co pictures where Vermouth topped him. Even Shinichi. And one time Kir.

So uh. This is from MK Treasured Vol5

The highlighted line says: ‘実は盗一は生きてるんですよ'とぶつちゃけた時のスきゃくせつタッフの驚いた顔は今でも忘れられないっス（笑）

“Even now I can’t forget the staff’s surprised faces when I bluntly said, ‘In fact, Toichi is alive’(lol)”

I mean she doesn’t really even have acting as an excuse for this - it seems a bit out of character for araide

sorry about the eyes, y’all

and bart’s giving me problems too so he’s not here