A Different Take on Linen
The unusually long seasonal transition period Porto is currently experiencing, provides the perfect opportunity to give all those lightweight favourites a final run before storing them for the coming months. As a Summer staple, the appealing traits of linen such as breathability, are the very same which make it inappropriate for the harsher days ahead, unable to fend off cold or wind. Another trademark feature of linen resides in the way it drapes and adjusts to the wearer’s body, crinkling and creasing in a most beautiful fashion - however, this natural effect is also one of its greatest downsides in what regards everyday practicality.
On this note, the variety of linen blends available presents a most welcome alternative, bringing together the best of both worlds: linen’s textured look and feel, albeit with added crease resistance. My latest bespoke suit from master Augusto Saldanha, features precisely one such fabric from Holland & Sherry - a linen/wool/teclana blend, with the latter adding slightly more body, structure and stiffness to the actual linen. The result is a sturdier fabric that requires some wearing to break in, but that ultimately proves to be outstanding both aesthetically and comfort-wise. Besides the unexpected dark olive green shade, I wanted the suit to portray a sophisticated casualness that would allow me to break it down often, by wearing either trousers or jacket alone.
Aiming for heavily pronounced peak lapels, the fully unlined jacket features a lower button stance with a slightly curved opening at the hemline: this creates a deep V on the torso that allows the underlying layers to shine. Details such as the contrasting yellow lining accents on the inner pockets, custom buttons, handmade pick stitching and hidden inner slots on the patch pockets (carried items don’t create a bulge), are but a few that make it stand out. If I were to point a specific flaw, I would say the handmade buttonholes could be much “cleaner”, but that will be address on future projects. As for the trousers, the usual double pleated high waist model, featuring a slimmer leg width towards the cuffs (4 cm) with 18cm width at the bottom.
Details: bespoke suit by Saldanha, made to measure shirt by RCC Premium Shirtmakers, tassel brogue loafers by Herring Shoes, polka dot wool tie by Massimo Dutti, braces by Purificacion Garcia, pocket square by Lobo Marinho, socks by Pé de Meia, Pleat sunglasses by The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear and watch by Swiss Army.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
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