Tile Cleaning

Choosing the perfect flooring requires balancing natural beauty, warmth, durability, and practical maintenance. Different rooms have different requirements based on foot traffic, moisture levels, and budget constraints. Here is an overview of the most popular flooring choices available today.

Solid Wood Flooring

Solid wood flooring remains a timeless and traditional choice that can significantly increase a home’s value. It adds natural beauty and warmth to any living space.

Advantages: A vast array of wood species, colours, and finishes are available, including flooring made from reclaimed timber. It is highly durable and can be sanded down and refinished multiple times, extending its lifespan for decades.

Disadvantages: It is highly susceptible to moisture damage, warping, and pet stains. It is not recommended for high-moisture areas like bathrooms or basements.

Dimensions & Types: Most traditional solid wood flooring is ¾ inch (around 19 mm) thick. Narrower strips are typically manufactured in standard widths of 2 ¼ inches and 3 ¼ inches (approx. 57 mm and 83 mm), whilst wider boards are referred to as planks.

Consider Prefinished: For homeowners who want the beauty of solid wood without a multi-day sanding-and-finishing process, factory-prefinished solid wood is worth a look. These planks come coated with multiple layers of aluminium-oxide-infused polyurethane, cured under UV lights at the factory to resist scratches.

Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Intended to resemble solid wood, engineered wood flooring is a highly versatile alternative manufactured by bonding a thin “wear layer” of solid wood (typically around 3 mm thick) to a plywood or composite substrate.

Versatility: Engineered wood adapts exceptionally well to shifting temperatures and can endure heat, moisture, and humidity better than solid wood. It can be installed in basements and kitchens where solid wood might warp or rot.

Installation: Like solid wood, the edges interlock. Unfinished options exist, but most homeowners prefer factory-finished material. It is highly DIY-friendly, with many variants designed as "floating" or glue-down floors that require no nailing.

Quality Indicators: Top-tier engineered boards boast 7 to 9 plies or more, a thick wear layer that can be sanded down and refinished two or more times, up to 9 factory finish coats, and warranties extending 25 years or longer.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

Tile is an excellent, hard-wearing choice for areas regularly exposed to moisture, such as bathrooms, utility rooms, and kitchens. It is durable, easy to clean, and highly resistant to stains and water damage.

Porcelain vs. Ceramic: Porcelain tiles are made with finely ground clay baked at exceptionally high temperatures, making them dense and incredibly tough.

Durability Ratings: Floor tiles must withstand significant pressure compared to wall tiles. When shopping, look for floor-tile glazes that rank high on the hardness scale (equivalent to quartz) to ensure the surface holds up to heavy foot traffic.

Slip Resistance: No floor is entirely slip-proof, but traction can be optimised. Small tiles (about 38 mm to 50 mm in diameter) are naturally skid-resistant because the abundance of grout lines adds grip. For larger format tiles, look for a matte finish or a "dynamic coefficient of friction" (DCOF) rating of 0.42 or higher when wet to ensure safety.

Luxury Vinyl Flooring (LVF)

Luxury vinyl flooring (available in sheets, tiles, or planks) has surged in popularity due to its durability, water resistance, and affordability. It can convincingly mimic the appearance of hardwood, stone, or tile whilst offering incredibly easy maintenance.

Composition: Vinyl sheet flooring combines PVC for toughness, fibreglass for stability, foam gel for underfoot comfort and insulation, and a urethane top coat for durability.

Formats: * Vinyl Sheets: Because of their weight, they can simply be loose-laid over a subfloor or glued down for permanence.

Luxury Vinyl Planks (LVP) & Tiles (LVT): These go through a similar manufacturing process but come out harder and stiffer. They can be glued down or clicked together at the edges to "float" seamlessly over an uneven subfloor.

Carpet and Area Rugs

Carpet provides unparalleled comfort, warmth, and sound insulation, making it ideal for bedrooms where people frequently walk barefoot, or for dampening the creaks of older subfloors.

Pile Types: Loop pile (often called Berber) wears exceptionally well in busy spaces like family rooms and hallways, though pet claws may occasionally snag in the tight fibres. Cut-and-loop styles combine both methods for a carved, tone-on-tone look that camouflages stains well.

Maintenance: Carpet requires frequent vacuuming and periodic deep cleaning to manage dust and pet dander. It should be entirely avoided in moisture-prone rooms like kitchens and bathrooms to prevent mould and mildew.

Choosing the Right Floor by Room Function

Kitchens: Need flooring that can handle spills, dropped utensils, and frequent cleaning. Ceramic/porcelain tile or luxury vinyl are common choices. Properly sealed hardwood can work but requires immediate cleanup of liquid spills.

Bathrooms: Require high moisture resistance and slip-resistant surfaces. Textured porcelain tile or luxury vinyl tiles are ideal.

Living Rooms & Bedrooms: Flexibility is key here. Hardwood offers a classic, timeless look, whilst carpets or large area rugs add warmth, comfort, and define distinct zones within a layout.

Project Overview

Linoleum is a natural, durable material made from linseed oil and wood flour. Unlike vinyl, the colour runs all the way through the tile, making it incredibly hard-wearing for high-traffic areas like kitchens and hallways.

Tools and Materials Required

Linoleum tiles: Measure your room and add 10% for "wastage" (off-cuts).

Linoleum adhesive: Check the manufacturer's recommendation for a compatible water-based adhesive.

Notched trowel: For spreading the adhesive evenly.

Utility knife: With plenty of spare heavy-duty blades.

Straight edge or T-square: For accurate cutting.

Tape measure: 5m or 8m should suffice.

Floor roller: A 45kg (100lb) roller is recommended for a professional bond.

Embossing leveller: If you are laying over existing floor coverings.

Step 1: Preparation and Acclimatisation

Linoleum is a natural product that can expand or contract slightly depending on the environment.

Acclimatise: Place the boxes of tiles in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours before starting.

Clear the Room: Remove all furniture, appliances, and any pedestal sinks or toilets if necessary.

Remove Trim: Carefully pry away the skirting boards and door thresholds using a pry bar. If you plan to reuse them, pull the nails through the back of the timber to avoid splitting the face.

Remove Doors: Take doors off their hinges to allow you to work easily right up to the threshold.

Step 2: Preparing the Subfloor

The finish of your linoleum will only be as good as the surface beneath it.

Check for Level: Ensure the floor is clean, dry, and perfectly level. Sand down high spots on floorboards or fill cracks in concrete.

Plywood Underlayment: For the best results over timber floorboards, lay 6mm flooring-grade plywood. Fix it with screws or ring-shank nails every 100mm-150mm along the edges and every 200mm across the centre.

Existing Floors: If laying over old vinyl or tiles, use an embossing leveller to fill any grout lines or textures that might "telegraph" (show through) to the new surface.

Step 3: Mapping the Layout

To avoid ending up with tiny, difficult-to-cut strips at the walls:

Find the Centre: Measure the length and width of the room to find the exact centre point.

Snap Chalk Lines: Use a chalk line to create two intersecting lines that divide the room into four quarters.

Dry Run: Lay a row of tiles from the centre to each wall without adhesive. If the gap at the wall is less than half a tile, shift your centre line slightly to ensure a more balanced look.

Step 4: Spreading the Adhesive

Work in Sections: Start in one of the quadrants created by your chalk lines.

Apply Glue: Use your notched trowel to spread the adhesive over a small area (roughly 1-2 square metres at a time). Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to ensure the correct "bead" of glue.

Open Time: Check the adhesive instructions for the "open time"—this is how long the glue needs to sit before you place the tiles to ensure the strongest bond.

Step 5: Laying the Tiles

Positioning: Place the first tile precisely at the intersection of your chalk lines. Press it firmly into the adhesive.

Joining: Place the next tile tightly against the edge of the first. Ensure there are no gaps between the tiles.

Cutting Perimeter Tiles: To fit tiles against the wall, place a loose tile exactly over the last full tile laid. Place another tile on top, butting it against the wall (leave a tiny 2mm expansion gap). Use the edge of the top tile as a guide to score the tile beneath.

Snap and Trim: Cut along the score line with your utility knife and "snap" the tile. Fit the cut piece into the gap.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Roll the Floor: Once the quadrant is complete, use a heavy floor roller to press the tiles into the adhesive. Start from the centre and roll outwards to push out any trapped air.

Clean Up: Use a damp cloth to remove any adhesive that has squeezed up between the seams before it dries.

Replace Trim: Reinstall your skirting boards and thresholds. You may need to plane the bottom of your doors if the new floor height is slightly higher.

Curing: Avoid heavy foot traffic for 24 hours and do not wash the floor for at least three days to allow the adhesive to fully cure.

If your floors are looking tired but replacing them isn’t in the budget, paint can be a surprisingly effective solution. It’s one of the most affordable ways to transform a space, adding character, colour, and even the illusion of texture without major renovation.

Below are practical ideas you can apply to timber floors, porches, patios, or even stairs.

1. Create an Outdoor “Rug” with Paint

Instead of laying an actual rug on your patio or decking, paint one directly onto the surface. Use a neutral base such as soft grey and layer geometric or patterned shapes in complementary tones. Tip: Use weather-resistant masonry or exterior floor paint to handle moisture and outdoor conditions.

2. Oversized Floral Designs for Decking

Large-scale floral patterns can breathe life into worn wooden decking or porch boards. Use the natural gaps between planks to guide your layout.

3. Bold Geometric Patterns

Geometric layouts like diamonds or octagons can make small areas feel bigger and more structured. Use masking tape carefully to achieve crisp lines, as this is where most DIY jobs fail.

4. Stencilled Floors for a Designer Look

Stencilling allows you to mimic expensive tile or encaustic flooring without the cost. Start with a primed base, then layer your stencil design. Finish with a polyurethane or floor varnish to withstand foot traffic.

5. Painted Stair Runner

You can recreate the look of a carpet runner on stairs using paint. Adds warmth visually without the maintenance of carpet.

6. Patchwork or Quilt-Inspired Stairs

Instead of a simple runner, go for a patchwork design using multiple colours. This gives a cosy, cottage-style feel and adds personality to the space.

7. Star or Feature Motif Floors

A bold motif such as a star can act as a focal point in entryways or hallways.

8. Checkerboard or Tiled Effect

Painting a checkerboard pattern can replicate classic tile floors at a fraction of the cost. Works especially well in kitchens and utility areas.

9. Faux Carpet Effect Indoors

Use paint to mimic the look of a carpet in spaces where real carpet isn’t practical, such as hallways or high-traffic areas. Choose darker shades to help hide dirt and wear.

10. Multi-Colour Geometric Zones

Use paint to define different zones within open-plan spaces. For example, separate dining and living areas using colour blocks.

11. Simple Solid Colour Refresh

Sometimes the best solution is the simplest, repaint the entire floor in a fresh tone. Lighter colours can help brighten darker rooms with limited natural light.

Key Practical Advice

Preparation is everything. Sand, clean, and prime properly before painting. Use the right paint. Choose paints specifically designed for floors to handle wear. Seal the finish. Always apply a protective topcoat for durability. Consider permanence. Painted floors are difficult to revert back, so choose designs carefully.

Bottom Line

If you’re trying to upgrade floors without spending thousands, painting is one of the smartest moves you can make. It’s not just cosmetic, it can completely change how a room feels.

But don’t rush it. Poor preparation leads to peeling paint in months. Done properly, you can achieve a result that looks far more expensive than it actually is.

Tile rugs are a clever way to define spaces and add character to your flooring without using actual carpets. Whether you're working with an open-plan kitchen or a compact hallway, they help create visual zones while keeping a clean, practical surface.

1. Use Tile Rugs to Define Open-Plan Spaces

In many UK homes, especially modern flats or extended terraces, open-plan layouts are common. A tile rug can visually separate areas like the kitchen, dining space, or lounge without adding walls. Placing a patterned inset beneath a dining table or kitchen island helps structure the room while keeping everything cohesive.

2. Match the Design with Your Interior Style

A tile rug should complement the overall look of your home. Period properties suit Victorian-style encaustic patterns, while modern interiors work better with geometric or minimalist designs. Rustic spaces pair well with natural stone or softer, muted tones. The goal is to create a consistent and balanced appearance.

3. Choose the Right Scale for the Room

Getting the size right is essential. In smaller areas like hallways, a compact design works best, similar to the size of a typical doormat. Larger kitchens or open-plan spaces can handle a more expansive tile rug. Leaving visible flooring around the edges helps frame the design and makes it look intentional.

4. Consider Flow and Foot Traffic

Think about how people move through the space. Tile rugs should be placed where people naturally walk or gather, not in awkward or unused corners. When positioned correctly, they can subtly guide movement while enhancing the overall layout of the room.

5. Balance Pattern and Simplicity

Tile rugs can either blend in or stand out. Using similar tones creates a subtle and elegant effect, while bold patterns and contrasting colours can act as a focal point. The key is not to overcrowd the space with too many competing designs.

6. Frame It with a Border (Optional)

Adding a border can make the tile rug feel more defined and intentional. A darker or contrasting tile works well as a frame, while using the same material keeps the look more refined. For a modern style, you can skip the border entirely for a seamless finish.

Practical UK Considerations

When planning your tile rug, use metric measurements to ensure accuracy. Choose slip-resistant tiles, especially in kitchens and bathrooms, and make sure the material is suitable for damp conditions. Porcelain or properly sealed natural stone are reliable options. If you have underfloor heating, check that your chosen tiles are compatible.

Bottom Line

A tile rug is more than just a decorative feature. It helps define spaces, improves flow, and adds personality to a room. When sized and placed correctly, it becomes a natural part of the design rather than an afterthought.

Whether caused by a stray stone in a shoe or a sliding sofa, scratches on floorboards can be an eyesore. Here is how to repair them using common household items and DIY supplies available in the UK.

1. The Walnut Method (For Light Scratches)

This is a classic 'old wives' tale' that actually works for surface marks on dark wood.

The Fix: Crack open a walnut and rub the kernel (the 'meat') directly into the scratch.

How it works: The natural oils in the walnut soak into the wood, darkening the scratch and making it blend with the surrounding area.

Finish: Buff the area with a soft, lint-free cloth.

2. The Tea Bag Trick (For Surface Marks)

Great for matching the tone of medium-to-dark oak or mahogany floors.

The Fix: Brew a mug of strong black tea (like PG Tips or Yorkshire Tea) using one bag and a small amount of boiling water. Let it steep for several minutes.

Application: Dab the tea onto the scratch with a cotton bud. The tannins in the tea act as a natural wood dye.

Note: Start with a light application; you can add more layers to darken the 'stain' once it dries.

3. Wax Repair Sticks (For Medium Scratches)

If the scratch has broken the finish but isn't deep, use a wax repair stick (often found in the flooring aisle at B&Q or Screwfix).

The Fix: Choose a colour that matches your floor. Rub the wax stick over the scratch until it is filled.

Finish: Use a plastic scraper (or an old credit card) to level the wax, then buff with a soft cloth.

4. White Spirit and Wood Stain (For Deeper Scratches)

If the wood itself is gouged, you will need to clean the area before repairing.

Clean: Dampen a cloth with white spirit (the UK equivalent of mineral spirits) to remove any old wax or polish from the scratch.

Fill: Use a wood filler that matches your floor colour. Apply it with a filling knife (putty knife), overfilling slightly.

Sand: Once dry, sand the area smooth with fine-grit sandpaper (180 or 240 grit).

Seal: Apply a thin coat of floor varnish or polyurethane lacquer to protect the repair.

5. Steaming Out Dents

If the wood is dented rather than scratched (where the fibres are crushed but not broken):

The Fix: Place a damp tea towel over the dent.

Steam: Press a hot iron onto the damp cloth for 10–20 seconds. The steam causes the wood fibres to swell back to their original shape.

Caution: Check the progress frequently to ensure you don't damage the surrounding varnish.

Prevention and Maintenance

Furniture Pads: Apply felt pads to the bottom of all chair and table legs.

Entrance Mats: Use heavy-duty doormats at every entrance to catch grit and small stones before they reach your floors.

Footwear: Avoid wearing stiletto heels or football boots (cleats) indoors, as these exert enough pressure to dent even the hardest oak.

Regular Cleaning: Give the floor a regular hoover (vacuum) or a sweep with a microfibre mop to remove abrasive dust.

Whether you are preparing for new LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile), laminate, or tiling, achieving a perfectly flat subfloor is essential. This guide adapts the techniques from This Old House for UK DIYers, using British terminology and standard materials available at local merchants.

What is Self-Levelling Compound?

Often called 'floor screed' or 'smoothing underlayment', this is a protein-free, cement-based powder mixed with water (or a latex additive). It flows across the floor to fill dips and hollows, hardening into a smooth, level surface.

UK Tip: For concrete subfloors, look for "Bag-and-Bottle" latex-based kits or water-mix "Rapid Set" compounds at stores like Screwfix, Toolstation, or Wickes.

1. Surface Preparation

Preparation is 90% of the job. A poorly prepared floor will lead to the compound cracking or "blown" spots (where it unbonds from the concrete).

Clean: Clear the room entirely. Use a heavy-duty vacuum to remove every speck of dust. Use a degreaser (sugar soap works well) if there are oil stains.

Repair: Fill deep cracks or holes with a rapid-set mortar or a sand-and-cement mix.

Prime: This is the most skipped but most important step. Apply a Blue Grit or a specific SBR Primer (diluted according to the bottle). This stops the dry concrete from sucking the moisture out of the compound too quickly, which causes bubbles and cracking.

2. Setting Up the "Rail System"

While many pros "free-pour," using timber rails ensures a perfectly flat finish over a large area.

Materials Needed:

Straight lengths of CLS timber (e.g., 38mm x 63mm).

Spirit level (the longer the better).

Plastic packers/shims.

PVA or construction adhesive.

Screed bar (a straight-edged piece of timber or a metal straight-edge).

The Process:

Find the High Point: Use your spirit level to find the highest spot on the floor.

Fix the First Rail: Run a length of timber from the high point across the room. Use packers underneath it until the top of the timber is perfectly level.

Scribe and Cut: If the gap under the timber is large, scribe the floor’s contour onto the wood and trim it with a circular saw so the timber sits flush on the floor but stays level on top.

Repeat: Set up parallel rails roughly 1 metre apart (or slightly less than the width of your screed bar).

3. Mixing the Compound

The Mix: Use a large mixing bucket (a 30L "gorilla tub" is ideal). Always add the powder to the water, not the other way around.

The Drill: You must use a power stirrer/paddle mixer. Mixing by hand with a stick will result in lumps that ruin the finish.

Consistency: It should look like thick pancake batter or double cream.

4. Pouring and Levelling

Work Fast: Most UK compounds have a "wet edge" time of only 15–20 minutes.

The Pour: Start at the far corner of the room and pour the mixture between the rails. Overfill slightly.

The Screed: Rest your straight-edge across two rails and pull it towards you in a sawing motion. This "strikes off" the excess and leaves a perfectly level surface.

Spiked Roller (Optional but Recommended): Run a spiked roller over the wet pour. This releases trapped air bubbles and helps the compound knit together.

5. Curing and Finishing

Drying Time: Most modern "Rapid Set" compounds are "foot-traffic-ready" in 3–4 hours. However, do not lay floor coverings immediately.

The 24-Hour Rule: Wait at least 24 hours before laying tiles or laminate. If laying wood flooring, you may need to wait longer or check moisture levels with a hygrometer.

Remove Rails: Once set, remove the timber rails. Fill the gaps left by the timber with more compound and smooth them over with a steel trowel.

Common UK Mistakes to Avoid

Incorrect Water Ratio: Too much water makes the finish weak and dusty; too little and it won't flow. Follow the bag instructions to the millilitre.

Drafts: Close all windows and doors while pouring. Drafts can cause the compound to dry unevenly and crack.

No Perimeter Tape: If you are pouring a thick layer, use "expansion foam tape" around the base of the walls to allow for slight movement.

The owner of an old Farmhouse in the rural Saddleworth got in touch late last year to see what could be done with the Flagstone flooring that ran through the hallway and front room.

I paid a visit to the property to survey the floor and could see the flagstones were very dark with all the ingrained dirt they had accumulated. You could no longer see any of the natural features of what can be a very beautiful stone. They were also very badly worn and stained so I recommended the best course of action would be to mill the stone to remove the top layer and reveal new uncontaminated stone underneath.

After measuring up I worked out a detailed quote for the complete restoration of the floors and emailed it over to the owner. Happy with the quote and having seen similar Flagstone floor restoration work on our website we were given the go ahead and a date set so the floor would be complete in time for Christmas.

Cleaning a Flagstone Tiled Floor

One of the advantages of milling a floor is you only need to use a set of milling pads and water; there’s no need to use any cleaning products first. Because of this once the low-speed weighted floor buffer was setup I could get to work immediately milling the floor. I use a set of Tile Doctor Flexi Diamond Milling pads for this which come in several grits. You start with the very coarse 50-grit and work up from there running the pad over each tile several times to cut back the. Water is used to lubricate the process and after each pad the floor is rinsed with more water and the soiling extracted with an industrial wet vacuum.

The pads also remove any flaking or loose material from the surface of the flagstones and any loose mortar between the flags soon works itself free. As a result, it’s necessary to go over all the mortar one the milling is complete, remove any that’s loose and replace it.

Sealing a Flagstone Tiled Floor

Once the flagstones were fully dry, I started applying the sealer which for this floor I applied Tile Doctor X-Tra Seal and then buffed off the excess. This is a hard-wearing oil-based sealer that adds structure and colour to the stone, it’s also rated for external use so was ideal for the hallway. X-Tra Seal is also fully breathable which is an important feature for old floors like this that don’t have a damp proof membrane.

Once sealed the floor really came alive and you could now see the unique and individual features in each of the flagstones. It was a lot of work but I was very pleased with the result, I always find it rewarding to see an old floor transformed. The farmhouse owner was also happy and left the following feedback:“Kevin was absolutely fantastic. Very professional and knowledgeable. Great communication before and during the job. Has brought our stone floor back to life and we are very impressed with the results.”

The new sealer is an impregnator that occupies the pores of the stone preventing dirt from residing there, this ensures dirt remains on the surface where it can be easily cleaned away. Regarding aftercare cleaning I recommended Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is an effective and sealer friendly tile cleaner.

Transforming your staircase by removing old carpet can instantly modernise your hallway. This is a straightforward DIY project that most homeowners can complete over a weekend. Whether you plan to reveal the original timber or prepare the surface for a fresh runner, this guide covers everything you need to know.

1. Assessing Your Staircase

Before you start, it is important to know what lies beneath the pile. In many UK homes, especially those built in the mid-20th century, stairs were often made of utility-grade softwood or plywood if they were intended to be carpeted.

The Peek Test: Use a pair of pliers to pull up a small section of carpet in an inconspicuous corner.

Check the Material: You may find solid oak or pine, but be prepared for MDF or plywood in modern builds, which may require painting rather than staining.

The "Reveal" Illusion: Note that some stairs have hardwood "ends" visible on the side, but the middle (under the carpet) might be cheaper timber.

2. Tools and Materials Needed

Safety Gear: Dust mask (to avoid inhaling old carpet fibres), heavy-duty work gloves (to protect against sharp staples), and knee pads.

Removal Tools: Stanley knife (with spare blades), flat bar or crowbar, long-nose pliers, and a hammer.

Cleaning Supplies: Heavy-duty vacuum cleaner, floor scraper, and medium-to-fine grit sandpaper.

Protection: Masking tape and dust sheets for your skirting boards and hallway flooring.

3. Preparation

Clear the area completely. Remove any wall hangings or furniture from the landing and hallway to prevent dust damage. Cover your downstairs flooring with dust sheets and use masking tape to protect the paintwork on your skirting boards.

4. Step-by-Step Removal

Step 1: Breaking the Seam Starting at the top of the staircase, use a flat-head screwdriver or scraper to pry up a corner of the carpet where it meets the landing. Be careful; the carpet is held down by sharp gripper rods (tack strips) and numerous staples.

Step 2: Pulling Up the Carpet Once you have a grip, pull the carpet firmly toward you. Work your way down the stairs, one step at a time. It is often easiest to cut the carpet into manageable sections using a Stanley knife as you go. Safety Tip: Always cut away from your body and watch out for the sharp metal pins in the gripper rods.

Step 3: Removing the Underlay The underlay is typically stapled to the treads. Pull this up in sections. If it has perished over time, it may crumble; use a scraper to lift any foam that has stuck to the wood.

Step 4: Removing Gripper Rods and Staples This is the most time-consuming part.

Gripper Rods: Use a flat bar and hammer to get underneath the rods and pry them up. Be gentle to avoid denting the wood if you plan to stain it.

Staples: Use long-nose pliers to pull out every single staple. If a staple snaps, use a hammer to tap the remains flush with the wood.

5. Cleaning and Finishing

Once the stairs are bare, vacuum thoroughly to remove decades of trapped dust.

Adhesive Removal: If the underlay was glued, use a floor scraper or a specialized adhesive remover to clean the treads.

Sanding: If you are planning to paint or stain the wood, sand the stairs starting with a 60 or 80-grit paper, finishing with a finer 120-grit for a smooth surface.

6. Disposal

Old carpet and underlay are bulky. Do not put them in your regular household waste bin. Most local Council Household Waste Recycling Centres (the "tip") will accept carpet, but check your local authority’s website first. Alternatively, you can hire a "skip bag" for a small-scale renovation.

Uneven floors can complicate furniture placement, create tripping hazards, and even prevent you from being able to install a new floor covering. Whether you’re working with timber, concrete, or tiles, we’ll explain how to achieve a smooth, level surface.

Common Causes of Uneven Floors

Before you begin levelling your floor, try to understand what caused the unevenness in the first place. Here are some common causes:

Foundation settling over time

Moisture damage causing warping in timber subfloors

Improper installation of the original subfloor

Natural characteristics of the building materials used

Structural issues such as sagging floor joists

Identifying the root cause determines whether you must address any underlying issues before levelling the floor. In some cases, particularly with structural problems, you may need to consult a structural engineer or professional builder before proceeding.

Tools and Materials Needed for Floor Levelling

Depending on your project, you may need the following:

Long straightedge (at least 1.8 metres)

Tape measure

Pencil for marking

Level (spirit level or laser level)

Random-orbit sander (for timber floors)

Angle grinder or floor grinder (for concrete floors)

Electric drill with a mixing paddle

Trowels (masonry trowel and wide finishing trowel for smoothing)

Wet/dry vacuum

Coarse sandpaper (60–80 grit for timber floors)

Countersunk screws (for timber subfloors)

Diamond grinding wheel (for concrete floors)

Self-levelling compound (screed)

Subfloor primer

Cement backer board (for tile installation)

Polymer-modified thin-set mortar (for tile installation)

Make sure you also have all necessary safety equipment, including a respirator or P3 dust mask, when working with concrete or wood that may produce fine dust.

Assessing the Floor’s Condition

Identifying High and Low Spots

Before you start levelling, identify your floor’s high and low spots. This helps determine where to focus your efforts. Start by using a long straightedge, such as a level or a straight length of timber. Place it on its edge and move it across the floor in different directions. Look for gaps under the straightedge; these indicate low spots. Then, look for areas where the straightedge rocks. Rocking indicates high spots. Mark these areas with a pencil as you go.

Measuring Floor Unevenness

Once you’ve identified the high and low spots, use your tape measure to check the gaps under the straightedge at the low spots. Remember, you’re aiming for no more than 5mm variation over a 3-metre span. For a more precise measurement, use a laser level. Set it up in the centre of the room and project a level line across the floor. Measure the distance from this line to the floor at various points to get an accurate picture of the floor’s contours.

Preparing the Floor for Levelling

Proper preparation is key to successful floor levelling. First, clean the floor and remove any debris, dust, or loose material. For timber subfloors, check for loose nails or screws and secure them. Remove any protruding fasteners that might interfere with the levelling process.

If working with a concrete floor, repair any cracks or damage before levelling. For major cracks or structural issues, consult a professional to address the underlying problem.

Finally, if you’re using a self-levelling compound, apply a primer to the floor according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This stops the floor from absorbing moisture too quickly and helps the compound adhere properly to the subfloor.

Levelling Techniques for Timber Subfloors

Sanding Down High Spots

Sanding down the high spots is often the simplest solution for timber subfloors with minor unevenness. Here’s how to do it:

Use a random-orbit sander with coarse (60–80 grit) sandpaper.

Start with the highest spots you identified earlier.

Sand gradually, checking your progress frequently with a straightedge.

Be careful not to sand too aggressively, or you’ll weaken the subfloor.

Once you’ve sanded the high spots, vacuum thoroughly to remove all dust.

Adding Plywood Layers

If sanding isn’t sufficient or if you need to raise the overall floor level, adding a layer of plywood can be an effective solution. We recommend this method when you’re transitioning between rooms with different floor heights.

Choose exterior-grade plywood that’s at least 6mm thick.

Cut the plywood to fit the room, leaving a 6mm expansion gap around the edges.

Secure the plywood to the existing subfloor using screws every 150–200mm.

Use thinner plywood or hardboard in some areas to achieve a level surface if necessary.

Levelling Techniques for Concrete Floors

Grinding is the most effective method for concrete floors with high spots. Follow these steps:

Use an angle grinder for small areas or hire a floor grinder for larger spaces.

Attach a diamond grinding wheel to the grinder.

Wear appropriate safety gear, including a respirator and eye protection.

Grind down the high spots gradually, checking your progress with a straightedge.

Vacuum thoroughly after grinding to remove all concrete dust.

Self-levelling compounds are ideal for filling low spots on concrete floors. Here’s how to apply them:

Mix the compound according to the instructions on the bag.

Pour the mixture onto the low areas of the floor.

Use a wide trowel or a spiked roller to spread the compound evenly and remove air bubbles.

Allow the compound to dry completely (usually 24 hours) before walking on it or installing flooring.

Filling Low Spots in Any Floor Type

Self-levelling underlayment is a versatile solution that works on timber and concrete subfloors. Here’s what to do:

Apply a primer to the subfloor and allow it to dry.

Mix the underlayment according to the instructions.

Pour the mixture into the low areas.

Use a trowel to spread evenly, feathering the edges to blend with the surrounding floor.

Allow the underlayment to dry completely before proceeding with flooring installation.

For floating floor systems like laminate or some engineered wood floors, you can use bituminised shimming felt to level minor low spots:

Cut pieces of felt to fit the low areas.

Staple the felt to the subfloor, layering it as needed to achieve the desired level.

Use your straightedge to check that the felt brings the low spots level with the surrounding floor.

Special Considerations for Tile Installation

Levelling for tiles involves some extra care. Here’s what to know.

Installing Cement Backer Board

When installing tiles over a plywood subfloor, you’ll need to install a layer of cement backer board. This provides a stable, water-resistant surface for the tile. Here’s how to do it:

Cut the backer board to fit the room, leaving a 6mm gap at the walls.

Apply a layer of thin-set mortar to the subfloor using a notched trowel.

Place the backer board onto the mortar and screw it down every 150–200mm.

Leave a 3mm gap between boards and fill these gaps with thin-set and joint tape.

Ensuring Proper Substrate Stability

For a successful tile installation, the substrate must be completely stable. Any flex in the floor can cause tiles to crack or grout to come loose. Here are some tips to ensure stability:

Check floor joists to make sure they’re adequately supporting the subfloor.

If necessary, add "noggins" (blocking) between joists to reduce flex.

You may need to add an extra layer of 12mm or 15mm plywood for large-format tiles to increase rigidity.

DIY vs. Professional Floor Levelling

You can complete many floor levelling projects yourself. Consider taking the DIY route if:

There’s minor unevenness (less than 20mm over 3 metres).

You’re comfortable using power tools and following detailed instructions.

The project doesn’t involve structural repairs.

You have the time and patience to complete the job thoroughly.

Signs You Need a Professional

While DIY is often possible, we advise calling in professional help in these situations:

The floor has significant unevenness (more than 20mm over 3 metres).

You suspect structural issues, such as rotten or damaged floor joists.

The project involves a large area or multiple rooms.

You’re not confident in your ability to achieve a perfectly flat result.

Cost Factors in Floor Levelling Projects

The cost of levelling a floor varies depending on the following factors:

Size of the area being levelled.

Type of subfloor (timber or concrete).

Severity of unevenness.

Materials needed (self-levelling compound, plywood, etc.).

Whether you DIY or hire a professional.

Materials for a DIY project generally cost between £2 and £6 per square metre. Professional services typically range from £15 to £40 per square metre, depending on the job’s complexity and the thickness of the material required.

Because of its straightforward interlocking design, tongue-and-groove flooring is a popular choice for DIY-minded homeowners. This flooring type offers a seamless look and a sturdy installation method that can last for decades when properly maintained. General contractor Tom Silva demonstrates the installation process, showing the best techniques to use for a professional-quality result.

What is Tongue-and-Groove Flooring?

Tongue-and-groove flooring is a system in which planks have a protruding ‘tongue’ on one edge and a corresponding ‘groove’ on the opposite edge. This design allows the boards to interlock easily, creating a tight seal and a smooth surface with minimal installation work required. It can be installed over various subfloors and, when fitted correctly, can withstand heavy foot traffic for years.

Types of Tongue-and-Groove Flooring

There are several options available, each with unique advantages:

Bamboo: An eco-friendly and durable choice for environmentally conscious homeowners.

Engineered wood: Designed to be more resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations, offering enhanced stability.

Laminate: A budget-friendly choice that is easy to maintain and mimics more expensive materials.

Solid hardwood: Known for its traditional appeal and longevity, offering a timeless look.

Preparing for Installation

Before you start fitting your flooring, ensure you have gathered the necessary tools and that the materials are prepared.

Tools and Materials:

Chalk line and pencil

Tape measure

Mastic gun (Caulking gun)

Mitre saw

Brad nailer or finish nailer

Flooring nailer and staples

Rubber mallet

Flooring jack

PVA or construction adhesive

Timber putty

Acclimatising the Flooring Before installation, allow the flooring to acclimatise to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 48 hours. This helps prevent warping or gaps later on. Spread the boards out in the room where they will be fitted rather than leaving them tightly stacked.

Preparing the Subfloor Ensure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level. Address any imperfections or unevenness, and thoroughly sweep or vacuum the area to remove debris.

The Fitting Process

Starting the First Row

Mark the row: Place a board against the wall, leaving a 5mm (3/16-inch) expansion gap.

Snap a chalk line: This ensures a straight starting point.

Apply adhesive: Apply mastic between the chalk line and the wall for the first row only to stabilise it.

Secure the board: Align the tongue with the chalk line and face-nail it along the groove side.

Laying Subsequent Rows For a stronger floor, stagger the end joints of adjacent rows by at least 150mm (6 inches). Use a flooring nailer to secure boards through the tongue at a 45-degree angle, ensuring the nails are hidden. Tap boards into place with a rubber mallet before nailing. Silva recommends nailing every 200mm to 300mm (8 to 12 inches).

Cutting and Fitting When cutting boards to fit, measure the space needed while accounting for the expansion gap. Use a mitre saw for clean, precise cuts, ensuring the tongue is oriented correctly. For obstacles like doorways or vents, measure carefully and use transition strips (thresholds) to provide a smooth finish between different rooms.

Finishing Touches

Filling nail holes: Use a colour-matched timber putty to fill visible holes. Once dry, sand lightly for a smooth finish.

Skirting boards and trim: Fit skirting boards or scotia trim to cover the expansion gaps around the perimeter.

Maintenance: Clean the floor thoroughly and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for ongoing care.

Patching holes in your wooden floor is often a straightforward do-it-yourself (DIY) project that improves your home’s appearance and safety. Whether you’re dealing with old radiator pipe holes or other damage, the right tools and techniques can help you achieve a seamless repair.

Materials and Tools to Fill Pipe Holes

To successfully fill holes in your floor, you’ll need the right supplies. Having everything on hand before you start will make the process smoother and more efficient.

Hammer

Matching wood (reclaimed or new)

Mitre saw

Oscillating tool or circular saw

Paintbrush or foam brush

Pry bar

Random orbit sander

Sandpaper (various grits)

Stain or varnish to match the existing floor

Table saw

Vacuum cleaner

Wood filler or putty

Wood glue

Preparing the Pipe Hole Repair Area

Proper preparation is key to achieving a professional-looking repair. This step involves cleaning the area and removing any damaged wood.

Cleaning the Floor

Start by thoroughly cleaning the area around the holes. Vacuum to remove loose debris, then wipe down the area with a damp cloth. Allow the floor to dry completely before proceeding.

Removing Damaged Wood

If the holes are part of a larger damaged area, use an oscillating tool to cut out the damaged section. Cut straight lines for easier patching. Remove the cut piece with a pry bar and hammer. Removing damaged wood paves the way for a more durable repair.

Cutting and Fitting the Patch for the Pipe Holes

Accurate measurements and cuts impact the floor’s strength and look. Measure the area to be patched, including width and length. Cut the replacement wood to size using a mitre saw and table saw. If replacing multiple boards with one piece, use the table saw to create a shallow groove mimicking the seam between boards. Precision during cutting helps avoid gaps and ensures a seamless blend with the existing floor.

Test Fitting

Before securing the patch, do a test fit. Make any necessary adjustments for a snug fit. Ensure the grain and colour match the surrounding floor as closely as possible.

Securing the Patch to the Wooden Floor

Once you have a well-fitted patch, it’s time to secure it in place. Start by applying a thin, even layer of wood glue. Avoid over-applying, which can cause the wood to warp. Secure the patch using the right nailing technique:

For face-nailed floors, use cut nails that match the existing floor.

Align new nails with the existing nail pattern.

Sink the nails slightly below the surface using a nail set.

Ensuring the patch is properly nailed keeps it secure, preventing future movement.

Finishing the Wooden Floor Repair

The final steps involve blending the patch with the surrounding floor for a seamless look. A well-finished patch should be indistinguishable from the original flooring.

Sanding the Patch

Start with a coarser grit sandpaper (80–100). Progress to finer grits (150–220) for a smooth finish. Sand in the direction of the wood grain.

Staining and Finishing

Match the colour and finish of the patch to the existing floor for a cohesive look. Apply wood stain if necessary, matching the surrounding colour. Once dry, apply a clear finish such as polyurethane. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Lightly sand between coats for a smooth finish.

Tips for a Seamless Wooden Floor Repair

Achieving a truly invisible repair requires attention to detail and some insider knowledge.

Matching Wood Grain

The appearance of your repair greatly depends on grain matching.

Use reclaimed wood from the same era if possible.

Pay attention to the direction and pattern of the grain.

Consider using wood from a cupboard or other hidden area of your home for a perfect match.

Blending Colours

Colour blending ensures the repaired area doesn’t stand out.

Mix stains to achieve the exact colour match.

Apply stain in thin layers, building up to the desired shade.

Use a rag to apply stain for more control over the colour intensity.

Ageing Techniques

To make new wood look old and consistent with vintage flooring:

Distress the surface with chains or hammers.

Use a wire brush to create a weathered look.

Apply a tinted wax or glaze to mimic years of wear.

Maintaining Your Repaired Wooden Floor

After successfully filling holes in your floor, proper maintenance preserves the repair and keeps your floor looking great.

Regular Cleaning

Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent dirt buildup.

Use a damp mop with a wood-safe cleaner for deeper cleaning.

Avoid excessive water, which can damage wood floors.

Protecting the Floor

Use felt pads under furniture legs to prevent scratches.

Place rugs in high-traffic areas to reduce wear.

Reapply finish as needed to protect the wood.

The exact method may vary depending on the extent of the damage, but once the repair is complete, it’s best to sand the entire floor and apply a fresh finish. This will help ensure the new boards are indistinguishable from the old.

Step 1: Cut along the perimeter

In the area to be repaired, use an oscillating multi-tool fitted with a metal-cutting blade to make thin, vertical cuts through the flooring close to the walls. This helps free the boards without damaging surrounding areas.

Step 2: Pry up the loose boards

Using a hammer with a straight claw and pry bars, lift the damaged or loose boards from the floor. If the angled nails in the tongue side cannot be pulled out, cut through them carefully with the multi-tool.

Step 3: Install the subfloor

If there are holes or weak spots in the subfloor (such as those left by old vents or fittings), cover them with plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) of the same thickness as the existing subfloor.

Square off the opening with a circular saw, cut the replacement pieces to size, and secure them to the joists with screws, or to timber cleats fixed between joists.

Tip: Using splines Flooring nailers drive angled nails that pull boards tightly together. If there isn’t enough clearance near a wall to use the nailer in one direction, you can reverse it. To do this, insert timber splines (cut on a table saw) into opposing grooves, allowing the reversed boards to be nailed while still achieving tight joints.

Step 4: Create a staggered joint pattern

Identify which existing boards need to be removed so the joints in the patched area are staggered in line with the surrounding floor.

Cut down the centre of each board using a circular saw set to the depth of the flooring. Then make clean, square end cuts with the multi-tool. Pry up the sections and remove any debris.

Step 5: Install the new boards

Lay a moisture barrier or builder’s felt over the exposed subfloor. Align the tongues of the new boards with the grooves of the existing flooring and gently tap them into place.

Step 6: Fix the boards

Using a pneumatic flooring nailer, drive angled nails through the tongues into the subfloor at intervals of approximately 400 mm.

Where space is limited, reverse the nailer and use splines as described earlier. In areas where neither method is possible, face-nail the boards using a brad nailer and 38 mm (1½-inch) nails.

Once the floor has been sanded and refinished, fill any visible nail holes with a colour-matched wood filler to achieve a seamless finish.

Hardwood flooring is a timeless choice, valued for its warmth, durability, and natural character. Choosing the right option means balancing looks, practicality, and budget. Here’s a clear UK-friendly guide to help you decide.

1. Solid vs Engineered Hardwood

Solid hardwood is made from one piece of wood. It’s long-lasting and can be sanded and refinished several times, but it’s more sensitive to moisture and temperature changes.

Engineered hardwood has a real wood top layer with a stable core beneath. It’s more resistant to movement, making it ideal for modern UK homes, flats, and rooms with underfloor heating.

2. Prefinished or Unfinished

Prefinished boards come ready to lay, saving time and mess.

Unfinished (site-finished) floors are sanded and sealed after installation, offering a seamless look and more custom colour choices.

3. Choosing the Right Wood Species

Popular choices in the UK include oak (most common), ash, maple, and walnut. When deciding, consider:

Durability for busy areas

Colour and grain style

Budget and availability

Sustainability (look for FSC-certified timber)

4. Grades, Grain & Appearance

Higher grades have fewer knots and a more uniform look.

Lower grades suit rustic or character-led interiors. Grain styles (plain sawn, quarter sawn, rift sawn) affect how busy or clean the floor looks.

5. Board Width & Thickness

Narrow boards feel traditional.

Wide planks create a modern, high-end look but can cost more. Thicker boards allow for future refinishing, especially with solid wood.

6. Finishes & Colours

Durable finishes like water-based lacquer or oil finishes are popular in the UK.

Lighter tones suit smaller or darker rooms, while darker floors add drama but show dust more easily.

7. Installation Methods

Nail-down: traditional, mainly for solid wood.

Glue-down: good for concrete subfloors.

Floating floors: common with engineered wood and quicker to install.

8. Durability & Maintenance

Harder woods cope better with wear and dents. Regular sweeping, gentle cleaning, and occasional re-oiling or refinishing will keep floors looking their best for years.

9. Budget & Professional Installation

Costs vary by species, grade, and installation method. Hardwood is a long-term investment, so professional fitting is often recommended to avoid costly mistakes and ensure proper subfloor preparation.

In short: choose a floor that suits your lifestyle, not just current trends. The right hardwood can add comfort, value, and character to your home for decades.

Terrazzo flooring typically consists of chips of marble or glass embedded in tinted cement, ground smooth and polished to a sheen. Due to its durability and many design possibilities, terrazzo is a popular choice for both residential and commercial applications.

In this guide, we’ll explore the history of terrazzo flooring, the most common types, the installation process, and required maintenance to help you determine if this flooring option is right for your space.

What Is Terrazzo Flooring?

Terrazzo flooring is made by embedding small pieces of marble, quartz, granite, glass, or other suitable chips in cement or another type of binder. The mixture is poured, cured, and then ground and polished to a smooth surface. This process creates a durable, long-lasting floor with a unique, speckled appearance that is highly customizable. Terrazzo floors are known for their strength, versatility, and ability to withstand heavy foot traffic.

Types of Terrazzo Flooring

Terrazzo flooring comes in several varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and applications.

Traditional Cement-Based Terrazzo

Cement-based terrazzo consists of marble chips or other aggregates mixed with Portland cement, poured over a concrete slab. This type of terrazzo is known for its durability and is often used in high-traffic areas. Installing cement-based terrazzo is labor-intensive and requires skilled craftsmen.

Epoxy Terrazzo

Epoxy terrazzo uses epoxy resin instead of cement as the binder. This type of terrazzo is thinner, lighter, and more flexible than its cement-based counterpart. Epoxy terrazzo allows for a broader range of color options and can incorporate a variety of aggregates, including recycled glass and metal. It’s particularly popular in commercial settings due to its chemical resistance. However, epoxy is not suitable for outdoor spaces as it will peel and fade.

Precast Terrazzo Tiles

Precast terrazzo tiles are the least expensive terrazzo flooring type. These tiles are manufactured off-site and can be installed much like traditional tiles. They may not offer the seamless look of poured-in-place terrazzo, but they provide a more cost-effective and easier-to-install alternative.

Advantages of Terrazzo Flooring

Terrazzo flooring offers numerous benefits that have contributed to its enduring popularity, including its durability, design versatility, and eco-friendliness.

Durability and Longevity

Terrazzo flooring is its exceptionally durable. When properly installed and maintained, terrazzo floors can last up to 100 years and potentially longer. This longevity is due to the hard-wearing nature of the materials used in its composition, such as marble chips and cement or epoxy binders. Terrazzo’s strength makes it resistant to cracks, chips, and other forms of damage that might affect other flooring types.

Design Versatility

With an almost infinite combination of colors and patterns available, terrazzo can be customized to suit any aesthetic preference or design scheme. Options range from subtle, monochromatic designs to bold, multicolored patterns. This versatility makes it a favorite among architects and interior designers for creating unique, eye-catching floors.

Eco-Friendly Options

Many terrazzo floors incorporate recycled materials such as glass, plastic, or metal as aggregates. Additionally, terrazzo’s longevity means fewer replacements over time, reducing waste and resource consumption. Some modern terrazzo installations also use low-VOC (volatile organic compound) epoxy binders, contributing to better indoor air quality.

Potential Drawbacks of Terrazzo

While terrazzo flooring offers numerous benefits, it also has some drawbacks.

Cost Considerations

One of the primary concerns for many homeowners and builders is the cost of terrazzo flooring. Traditional poured-in-place terrazzo can be relatively expensive, with costs starting at around £7 per square foot for basic premade tiles and increasing significantly (as high as £27 per square foot or more) for more complex patterns or premium materials, according to Angi. The high cost is largely due to the labor-intensive installation process, which requires skilled craftsmen and specialized equipment.

Installation Complexity

Installing terrazzo flooring is complex and requires expertise and precision. The installation involves multiple steps, including subfloor preparation, pouring the terrazzo mixture, and extensive grinding and polishing. This complexity contributes to the higher cost and means that DIY installation is generally not feasible for most homeowners. The installation process can also be time-consuming, potentially causing disruptions in residential or commercial spaces.

Maintenance Requirements

While terrazzo is known for its durability, it does require regular maintenance to keep it looking its best. Daily sweeping or dust mopping is recommended, as well as weekly cleaning with a pH-neutral solution.

Periodic deep cleaning and resealing may be required, depending on the type of terrazzo and its location. In some cases, professional maintenance may be needed to address scratches or stains, which can add to the long-term cost of owning terrazzo floors.

Comparing Terrazzo To Other Flooring Options

To fully appreciate the value of terrazzo flooring, it’s helpful to compare it with other popular flooring materials.

Terrazzo vs. Marble

Both terrazzo and marble offer elegant, high-end flooring solutions. Marble is prized for its natural beauty and unique veining patterns, while terrazzo offers more design flexibility and customization options.

In terms of durability, terrazzo often outperforms marble, as it’s less prone to etching and staining. Terrazzo is also generally more slip-resistant than polished marble. However, marble may have a higher resale value due to its perceived luxury status.

Terrazzo vs. Tile

Ceramic or porcelain tile is another popular flooring option that, like terrazzo, offers durability and water resistance. Tile installation is typically less complex and less expensive than poured terrazzo. However, terrazzo provides a seamless look that tile can’t match, and it offers greater design flexibility.

While both materials are long-lasting, terrazzo often has a longer lifespan and may require less maintenance over time, particularly in terms of grout cleaning and repair.

Terrazzo vs. Hardwood

Hardwood flooring provides a warm, natural aesthetic that many homeowners love. It’s generally less expensive to install than terrazzo and can be refinished multiple times. However, hardwood is more susceptible to scratches, dents, and water damage.

Terrazzo also offers better longevity in high-traffic areas and requires less maintenance over time. While hardwood can be refinished to change its appearance, terrazzo offers more initial design options but is more difficult to change once installed.

Is Terrazzo Worth the Investment?

While terrazzo is more expensive upfront than other flooring options, its long-term value can justify the initial cost.

The price of terrazzo flooring can vary significantly based on factors such as the type (cement-based, epoxy, or precast tiles), design complexity, and the installation method. According to Angi traditional cement terrazzo can cost between £12 and £19 per square foot for materials and labor. However, this cost can increase for more intricate designs or premium materials.

Despite the higher initial investment, terrazzo offers excellent value over time due to its exceptional durability and longevity. A well-maintained terrazzo floor can last for decades, even in high-traffic areas, potentially outlasting several installations of less durable flooring materials.

Choosing the Right Terrazzo for Your Space

Selecting the perfect terrazzo for your space involves considering both visual and practical factors. The right choice can enhance your interior design while meeting the area’s functional needs.

Color and Aggregate Selection

The color palette and aggregate mix of your terrazzo can dramatically impact the overall look of your space. Consider the existing color scheme of your space and whether you want the terrazzo to complement or contrast with it. Lighter colors can make a space feel larger and brighter, while darker tones can add depth and sophistication.

The aggregate selection also plays a crucial role in the final appearance. Traditional marble chips offer a classic look, while glass or metal aggregates can create a more modern, sparkling effect. The size of the aggregate chips can also vary, with larger chips creating a bolder, more dramatic look and smaller chips resulting in a more subtle, uniform appearance.

Pattern and Design Considerations

The placement of divider strips can create geometric patterns or more organic shapes within the floor. Consider whether you want a simple, uniform look or a more complex design that incorporates multiple colors or patterns.

For commercial spaces, terrazzo offers the opportunity to incorporate logos or specific designs into the floor. In residential settings, you might consider using different terrazzo designs to delineate various areas within a larger room, such as creating a border around the perimeter or a medallion in the center. In bathrooms, terrazzo can be used to create visually appealing shower surrounds or backsplashes.

How to Install Terrazzo Flooring

Installing terrazzo flooring is a complex process that requires skill, precision, and specialized equipment. While it’s generally recommended to hire professionals for terrazzo installation, understanding the process can help you appreciate the craftsmanship involved and make informed decisions about your flooring project.

Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor

The first step in terrazzo installation is thorough subfloor preparation. This involves meticulously cleaning the subfloor (typically a concrete slab). Workers power-wash and sweep the slab to remove loose debris, followed by a scrub down with acid to kill algae, which can weaken the bond between the concrete and the terrazzo. Proper preparation ensures a strong, long-lasting bond between the terrazzo and the subfloor.

Step 2: Install Divider Strips

Next, zinc dividers are cemented to the slab, creating a grid of 3-foot squares. To stop wet terrazzo from flowing into the parts of the slab where walls will be built, plywood strips are temporarily fastened to the perimeter to contain the wet terrazzo mixture. After that, divider strips are installed to create a grid pattern and control cracking. These strips not only serve a functional purpose but also contribute to the overall design of the terrazzo floor.

Steps 3: Mix and Pour the Terrazzo

The terrazzo mixture is prepared according to a precise recipe, combining cement, aggregates, and pigments. The mixture is then poured onto the prepared subfloor and spread evenly. Contractors use heavy rollers and hand trowels to compress the mixture and ensure even distribution.

Step 4: Grinding and Polishing

Maintaining Your Terrazzo Floor

Daily Cleaning

Simple cleaning methods are usually sufficient for everyday maintenance. Sweep or dust mop the floor daily to remove loose dirt and debris that could scratch the surface. For wet cleaning, use a damp mop with a pH-neutral cleaner specifically designed for terrazzo.

Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaning tools that could damage the floor’s finish. Promptly clean up spills to prevent staining, especially from acidic substances like wine or citrus juices.

Periodic Deep Cleaning

While daily maintenance keeps your terrazzo floor looking good, periodic deep cleaning is necessary to maintain its shine and remove stubborn dirt. Perform a more thorough cleaning every few months or as needed, depending on foot traffic. Use a specialized terrazzo cleaner and a soft-bristled brush or machine to gently scrub the floor. After cleaning, rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry the surface to prevent water spots.

Addressing Scratches and Stains

Despite its durability, terrazzo can develop scratches or stains over time. For minor scratches, professional buffing may be sufficient to restore the surface. Deeper scratches or chips may require filling with a color-matched epoxy.

For stains, try cleaning with a cleaner made specifically for terrazzo. If these methods don’t work, or for extensive damage, it’s best to consult a professional terrazzo restoration specialist. They can assess the damage and recommend appropriate treatments, which may include re-grinding and re-polishing the floor.

Resealing

A terrazzo floor requires resealing every so often to maintain its durability and appearance. The frequency of resealing depends on the amount of foot traffic the floor sees. A popular public space may need to reseal twice a year, while a terrazzo floor in a private residence may only need resealing every five years. You can tell that it is time to reseal a terrazzo floor if it seems to be staining more easily or if you notice thin patches where the sealant is visibly lacking.

Our Conclusion

Terrazzo flooring is a versatile and durable option that brings unique aesthetic appeal to any space. Understanding its types, installation process, and maintenance requirements can help you make an informed decision when considering this flooring option. While the initial investment may be higher, terrazzo’s longevity, design flexibility, and low maintenance needs make it a valuable choice for residential and commercial applications.

Carpet can loosen over time due to foot traffic, age or humidity, creating ripples and tripping hazards. Stretching restores a smooth, safe surface and helps the carpet last longer.

Tools You’ll Need

Power stretcher – best for full rooms; usually hired rather than bought.

Knee kicker – useful for corners and positioning.

Utility knife, pliers, hammer tacker or staple gun, and tack strips if replacing damaged ones.

How to Stretch Carpet

1. Clear and Inspect

Remove all furniture. Check the carpet and subfloor for stains, damage or moisture. Deal with stains before stretching.

2. Lift Carpet Edges

If re-stretching, gently pull the carpet free from the tack strips and roll it back.

3. Replace or Secure Tack Strips

Ensure tack strips are 12 mm from the skirting with pins angled towards the wall. Replace worn strips.

4. Reposition the Carpet

Roll the carpet back out, leaving a slight overhang for trimming.

5. Use the Knee Kicker

Secure the carpet along one wall to anchor it before stretching.

6. Stretch with the Power Stretcher

Set up the stretcher across the room. Press the teeth into the carpet and operate the lever to tighten it evenly. Avoid excessive tension to prevent damage. Lock the carpet onto the tack strips section by section.

7. Trim the Edges

Use a sharp knife to trim excess carpet along the skirting. A stair tool helps tuck it neatly into place.

DIY or Professional?

DIY stretching saves money but requires physical effort and proper tools. For large rooms or valuable carpets, professionals may be the safer option.

Common Issues

Over-stretching: causes distortion—aim for firm, not strained.

Uneven tension: re-stretch from the centre outward.

Persistent wrinkles: gently warm the area with a carpet iron before stretching (don’t overheat synthetics).

This step-by-step guide shows you how to refresh hardwood flooring using a quicker, less costly method than sanding back to bare timber—and one that can usually be completed in a day.

Refinishing hardwood floors involves using a floor buffer (available to hire from most tool hire shops), a water-based polyurethane finish, and a vacuum to collect dust. Buffers can feel awkward at first, so if you’ve never used one, practice in the centre of the room until you get used to controlling it. Below, we explain how to refinish hardwood floors without sanding and address common questions.

How Much Does It Cost to Refinish Hardwood Floors Yourself in the UK?

DIY refinishing typically costs £350–£700, depending on the size of the room and the materials used. Hiring a professional can range from £25–£40 per m², plus additional charges if the floor requires full sanding or repairs.

DIY costs usually include:

Buffer or sander hire

Buffing pads

Polyurethane finish

Brushes and rollers

Cleaning supplies

Your total will vary based on floor area, flooring type, and the products you choose.

Is It Cheaper to Refinish or Replace Hardwood Floors?

Refinishing is almost always cheaper than replacing hardwood flooring. New boards are considerably more expensive, and the labour for removing and disposing of old flooring adds additional cost.

In the UK, installing new hardwood flooring typically ranges from £70–£150 per m², including materials and labour, not counting removal of the existing floor. Unless your flooring is severely damaged or warped, refinishing is the more economical option.

What To Consider Before Refinishing Hardwood Floors

Before you start, check the condition of your flooring. You may need full sanding if you have:

Deep dents or scratches

Heavy wear

Visible cupping or crowning

Major discolouration

Applying finish over damage may actually highlight the imperfections.

Some wood species release tannins that can react with water-based polyurethane and cause discolouration. To prevent this, apply a base coat first. Brush it gently along the edges, taking care not to create bubbles, then use a synthetic applicator to smooth the rest of the floor. Allow roughly two hours for the base coat to dry.

Recommended Tools and Materials

Microfibre flat mop

Floor buffer with maroon buffing pad

Vacuum cleaner with a clean filter

Respirator with organic vapour cartridges

Plastic watering can (without sprinkler head)

75 mm (3-inch) paint brush

Roller and extension handle

How to Refinish Hardwood Floors: Step-by-Step

1. Clean the Floor

Remove all furniture from the room. Spray the floor with a hardwood floor cleaner or a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Wipe with a microfibre or terry-cloth mop. Close windows and doors to prevent dust spreading.

2. Prepare the Edges

Using 180-grit sandpaper, hand-sand around the room’s perimeter and any awkward areas the buffer cannot reach. Sand in the direction of the grain, around 10–15 cm out from the skirting board, until the existing finish looks dull and forms a fine powder.

Tip: Avoid sanding blocks on uneven floors—they may skip lower areas.

3. Scuff-Sand the Main Floor

Attach a maroon buffing pad to the buffer and wear a dust mask. Move the buffer side-to-side following the grain, overlapping each pass by about 15 cm. The old finish will turn to powder, making it easy to see where you’ve been. Keep the machine moving and vacuum the pad every few minutes.

4. Vacuum and Tack

Allow 10–15 minutes for the dust to settle. Using a vacuum with a felt-bottom attachment, clean the entire floor along the grain, then across it to collect dust between boards. Finish by dry-tacking with a microfibre cloth.

5. Cut In Along the Edges

Wear boot covers and a respirator with vapour filters. Strain the polyurethane finish into a clean watering can (without a head) and pour a small amount into a container. Using a 3-inch brush, apply a neat strip around the skirting boards starting from the far side of the room. Work steadily—if the edge begins to dry, you may create lap marks.

6. Roll on the Main Coat

Pour a thin line (about 2–3 cm wide) of finish along the grain—only enough to cover roughly 10 minutes of work. With a roller fitted with a short-pile sleeve, roll with the grain first, then across it to ensure even coverage. Overlap each stroke to maintain a wet edge. Refresh the edge brushing every 10 minutes, then continue pouring and rolling until the entire floor is coated.

Allow 3 hours before applying a second coat and at least 7 days before returning furniture or heavy items.

Conclusion

Refinishing hardwood flooring is a cost-effective DIY project that can dramatically improve the appearance of worn timber floors. Most homeowners can complete the process in a day, spending well under the cost of replacement. However, if your floor shows deep damage or structural problems, full sanding or professional restoration may be required for the best results.

Old carpet can trap dust, allergens, and odours, making your space feel outdated. Removing it yourself is an affordable and straightforward DIY task that can usually be completed within a day, depending on the room’s size. With the right tools and a bit of effort, you can refresh your flooring and inspect what’s underneath before fitting something new.

Why Remove Old Carpet

Over time, carpets collect dirt, stains, and allergens that can be difficult to clean. Removing your old carpet gives you the chance to replace it with flooring that better fits your style and needs, and to check for problems like squeaky or uneven subfloors. If you plan to fit laminate, vinyl, tile, or hardwood, carpet removal is the essential first step.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Essential Tools

Utility knife for cutting carpet

Pliers for pulling up corners

Floor scraper for removing padding and glue

Flat pry bar for lifting tack strips

Duct tape for securing rolled carpet

Safety Equipment

Protective gloves

Knee pads for comfort

Dust mask to avoid inhaling particles

Optional Tools

Heavy-duty scissors

Hammer for stubborn tack strips

Vacuum for cleaning debris

Preparing the Room

Clear the Space Remove all furniture before you start. Cover any large or fixed pieces with plastic sheeting. Take off any doors that open into the room for easier access.

Put On Safety Gear Wear gloves, knee pads, and a dust mask to stay protected while you work.

Removing the Carpet

1. Detach from Tack Strips Start in a corner and pull the carpet up using pliers. If it’s difficult, cut a small square in the corner with your utility knife and pull from there. Work around the room until all edges are detached.

2. Cut into Manageable Strips Cut the carpet into 3–4-foot-wide strips from the back side. This makes it easier to handle.

3. Roll and Remove Sections Roll each strip tightly and secure with duct tape before removing it from the room.

For wardrobes or small areas, cut separately. If you find metal transition strips between flooring types, cut along the edge and leave them in place.

Removing Carpet Padding

If Glued (Concrete Floors) Use a floor scraper to lift stuck padding and scrape away leftover adhesive.

If Stapled (Wood Floors) Pull the padding up by hand and remove any staples with a scraper or small screwdriver. Take care if you’re uncovering hardwood you intend to keep.

Handling Tack Strips and Staples

Inspect the tack strips around the edges. If you plan to install new carpet, you can keep them if they’re in good condition. For other flooring types, or if they’re damaged, use a pry bar to remove them carefully.

Special Considerations

Removing Carpet from Stairs Start at the top and work your way down, cutting and removing one step at a time. Be cautious—stair tack strips are very sharp.

Doorways and Transitions Cut the carpet at transition points. If you need to remove the metal strips, use a pry bar or screwdriver to lift them.

Cleaning and Preparing the Subfloor

Inspect for Damage Check for mould, rot, or water stains. Fix any issues before fitting new flooring.

Clean Thoroughly Sweep or vacuum all debris. On concrete, use a damp mop for adhesive residue. For wood, use a dry mop or tack cloth and ensure the surface is completely dry before continuing.

Disposing of Old Carpet

Recycling Options Some local councils or carpet retailers accept used carpets for recycling. Contact your local waste facility for details.

Proper Disposal If recycling isn’t available, cut the carpet into smaller pieces that meet your local waste collection requirements. You may need to schedule a bulky waste collection with your local authority.

Tips for a Smooth Process

Ask a friend or family member to help.

Keep a bin bag handy for staples and debris.

Take breaks to avoid fatigue.

Use a magnet to pick up stray tacks or staples.

Work in sections to stay organised.

When to Call a Professional

Call a professional if:

You find mould or significant water damage.

The subfloor needs repair.

The area is large or complex.

You have mobility or time limitations.

Conclusion